Re: 72 K30 Build
 

I forgot to drop my trans pan when I got my trans back from the trans shop last fall. I wanted to add some good sealer to the gasket to keep it from leaking. It's a plastic with steel gasket. I forgot to and guess what? It leaks a little. So annoying. :lol:

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Yep same here, would have been much easier without being full of fluid! :whine:


Found several issues that made my engine leak. First the pan gasket was leaking, after mounting the engine to the stand and flipping it upside down I found this. Removed the pan and 3 sides (front, left & rear) were fairly dry but starting on that front right corner (looks like oil was getting past the gasket on the block side in the red circle.) and running all the way down the right rail to the back it’s wet on the outside edge of the gasket. Not 100% on these one-piece style gaskets yet but at least I can clean it up and reuse it (with more sealer in certain areas) and that’s a really good thing.

Second our rear main seal and cap were not installed using any sealer, the seal was not offset. This area including all seal surfaces were very wet and the seal is cut in the inner channel near the seam. Once removed I found 3 of the 4 sides had that fate and this seal is junk.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Hey Brett that sucks. Sounds like crap I was dealing with on hulk jr. Stupid/crazy things that shouldn't be. I am sure you will get it. My small block has the same seal kit you used as it looks the same. I was able to snug up my oil pan and stop the pan lean I had on the motor. Knock on wood no drops on the driveway so far!

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Brett, check to make sure your oil pan isn't bulged towards the engine from being tightened/over tightened over the years. Usually the pans are dented up at every bolt hole and that can cause the one piece style seals to bulge/dis form and not seal correctly. You should be able to take a small ball peen hammer and get the holes flattend or dented the opposite way for your next install.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Thanks Scott, I’d much rather deal with it now you know (sh?t happens) and practice does make perfect! :lol: Ordered some extra-long bolts like the ones you guys used for round 2 as the others I used were stock length and perhaps didn’t bite quite as well as I’d thought they did?

Thanks Ryan, I did notice that when I installed this pan the first time and thought I had them all but you bet I'll look at it again prior to round 2! :lol:


While waiting on some parts to get here it’s time to get after that pesky pipe plug. The carnage continued with another Husky adaptor biting the dust. Good thing these have a lifetime warranty cuz they keep handing me new ones! :lol: So after a couple of failed attempts (with a propane torch) I borrowed a buddie’s acetylene setup to bring some serious heat. Also splurged on a different 1/2” to 3/8” impact adaptor from Proto that doesn’t have a warranty, hey it’s twice the money so it’s got to be better right? :confused:

TADA we win! It did twist the Proto adaptor as well, but who cares, winning! :bann:

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Yay! I'm a sucker for stories where the good guy wins :lol:

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

That's good you got the plug out. Keep an eye out for a bit for an air hammer that has a 3/8 extension end on it. I got one of them to get stubborn plugs out and it works awesome.

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Thanks Rick, I was getting a little worried I’d end up having to drill the dang thing out like Mike had suggested earlier.

Like this one Ryan? https://store.snapon.com/Socket-Adap...--P636879.aspx That looks like it would do a killer good job and I’m assuming it’s not hollow like the adaptors I’ve been using?



Parts are in and we sprung for an upgraded Felpro super-duper, extreme environment rear main seal. Here’s some pics for anyone that has not done this before, plenty of ultra-black and lubriplate. Wiped off excess sealer on the crankcase side once the cap was installed to keep it out of the motor. Turned the motor over by hand to try and get some lubriplate on the block side of the bearing and seal. I’ve never had a rear main leak that was done similar to this.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Moving forward! :)

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

You Betcha!


Bottom end is all buttoned up, painted and it ain’t gointa leak this time!! :sumo:

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Looking good. I hope you got it sealed up this time. Keep up the great progress.
I posted a link on how felpro recommends using their silicone rubber gaskets. These type of gaskets are top of the line and usually don't leak.
http://www.felpro-only.com/blog/clean-dry/

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Thanks junksaver me too and thanks for the link you’re 100% correct, that’s a big reason why I wanted to try one of these style gaskets. The reusability was an added bonus as things are turning out. :lol:


Ha that's one on me, I’ve never had a motor leak for 3 full days after it’s been drained. :confused: Once the block was inverted this fixture hole had a bit of oil in it and like I said the entire side rail was wet. I did double check the oil pan as Ryan had mentioned earlier and it’s flat. Other than my rear main issues all I can figure is that using the short factory length oil pan bolts shot me in the foot, didn’t bite as well as I’d thought perhaps creating a pucker somehow? Rhymes with what I really think!!! :censored:


Moving on, temp sender is in place and yes still winning! :lol: Knocked out a new trans pan gasket with sealer and sealed up the vacuum modulator just in case it even thought of leaking. Already caught the super slow leaker on the front of the transfer case I had mentioned earlier as well.

Here we go for round #2!

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Maybe a bit of thread sealant on the bolts if the thread passage is open to the crankcase?

I will always use my fingers and spread a thin film on the gasket before install and extra in the corners like you did. EDIT: Old school with old school gaskets..

Hang in there, I'm chasing my tail with the bondo work i'm doing, i swear the low spots are alive and moving from one location to another!

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Thanks Mike, the sealer used was just on the block side 4 corners area and only where it looked like it had or could leak the seal against the pan side was very good.

So the K30 looks just like it did before, but happy to report it has not leaked a drop of anything for several weeks! :mm: Got it running again just in time to test this old 80lb factory gauge supplied by forum member tommys72 (thanks again Tom!). Almost pegs this gauge on cold startup, the pic is after it has run awhile reads very close to the other know good gauge we’ve been using.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Brett, very nice! Yes, that snap-on chisel adapter is the one. It is pricey but can have multiple uses.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Good job Brett!

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Thanks you guys!


It is time to spin the frontend under its own power. I’d debated about rebuilding the front driveline as it’s in really good shape. But finally did decide to send it out for new sealed u-joints, it also got a new ball seal and the balance was checked.

:m5: All good except you would think I’d ask my vendors not to paint stuff and especially not over stuck on crud, labels, etc. so I’m cleaning, stripping, re-greasing and re-painting. :m5:

Just par as I fuss over most everything including what we send out! :lol:

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

The front shaft should be good to go for a long while now. It looks great.

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Thanks Ryan, you know I should’ve mentioned while on my soap box that our vendor did do a good job, at a great price and I know they are a high volume shop. Probably lucky it got cleaned as well as it did! :lol:


No pics to post today just a couple of new video’s.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7XV4BRHrKo
Installed the newly serviced front drive line and spun our rebuilt D60 frontend. Cold start with fast idle and we get some pinion seal squeal (dry) going on towards the end of the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYsFCTa84uA
Next day, round 2, fired it up in neutral put it in drive and walked away to go get my camera. Let it run for about 25-30 minutes spinning in drive this time the pinion seal is happy & quiet. The old leaky Dixco oil pressure gauge we use did leave a drop on the floor.

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Looking and sounding good Brett!!!

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Very nice! That's got to be a relief to not have the engine leaking oil now!

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Very nice! I subscribed to your Youtube account too.. :)

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Thanks Scott our 4x conversion has its done stamp.

Thanks Ryan that’s for sure, kind of like an energizer bunny leak that kept going, going and going. :lol:

Thanks Mike you’re the first! :metal:


The next day after making the second video I walked out to find the speedo had leaked. Ha, as a friend of mine says “it’s always something”! No biggie just going to block it off for now, our plan is to remove and plug this speedo anyway we’ll be running it off the OD unit that we don’t have yet.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Its almost time to send our sheet metal out for media blast. So with that in mind the cab is back on the frame a final time prior to paint. Did find that our exhaust was just barely high enough to contact the stock heat shield and will need a trimmed. Set the stock A/C evaporator box in place to make sure one last time that it clears in the event we do reuse it, and it does.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Last month while in a waiting mode for some parts started to restore this console that we’d acquired several years ago with our bucket seat frames from forum member bluek5 (Paul). It’s got some damage from I think a CB mounting bracket in the front and some small screw holes in the bottom that need to be fixed, etc. In addition, its missing the roller latch for the lid and the stop strap is broken.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Brett, do you have atf in that NP205?

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No it’s blood, really! :devil:

Yep it does for now but not sure for how long though, what’s your thoughts on this Ryan? I’d read that GM (and Dodge?) ran ATF towards the end of production apparently to help with gas mileage. The 1987 Chevrolet Light Duty Truck Unit Repair Manual does call for Dex II for all transfer cases including the 205. The 1984 GMC Light Duty Trucks Service Manual says to see the owner’s manual? Ha, now that’s a mystery as I don’t have one of those. :lol:

Also something about it being a good idea behind an automatic in the event of seal failure between the two. Kind of interesting stuff, my thoughts were if I could get ours to hold the thin weight oil it could surely hold the thicker stuff like a champ!



Got most of the original paint stripped and started the repair work.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

From the research I've done, running 80w90 provides the correct lubrication to helical cut gears in this particular application. Plus, gear lube seems to quiet down noisy ones. I can tell you any dodge one I drained atf from were noisy and didn't get atf back in them.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

i was thinking about doing the same..

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I have noticed the dodge ones with atf shift super hard and after putting 80w90 in them, shifting them was easier.

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Ive always said that the 205 will run with anything oily in it. peanut butter, 80w90, 40w, whatever. but i agree that they seem to do the best and leak the least with 80w90.

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Thanks guys good to know, we'll change ours out prior to putting it in service. For now that atf has been finding all the leaky areas for us. Probably will skip the peanut butter step though! :lol:


Here’s how it looked prior to some paint. I’m guessing the hole repair in the last pic won’t hold but did it anyway.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Looks like the console repair is coming along nicely Brett. What are you using to fill the holes in that old plastic? Do you plan to re-texture before paint?

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Thanks Rick, using U-Pol Fibral Lite http://www.u-pol.co.uk/documents/dat...IBL-TDS-US.pdf it’s what we had on the shelf. The front was pretty beat up and I’ve been trying to save as much texture as possible. It could be retextured possibly with a little more time and a dremel or engraver tool. I don’t think I’ll take it that far as this area is not very noticeable once installed and who knows, maybe I’ll mount a CB there! :lol: Ha, probably not but maybe a cell phone pocket?


Got the inside painted first and needed to work the repair on the front some more. Trying to get it to flatten out the damage had pulled the material forward.

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Started assembly after acquiring the missing pieces. Finding those little pieces took weeks, got us another console and ended with a quik road trip to Boise as the seller didn't want to ship. :lol:

Re: 72 K30 Build
 

Damn fine build! What Finnish you got going on with the console ?looks great

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Thats looking nice!

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The console looks amazing!

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Thanks, appreciate it you guys. I went with forum member FirstOwner69 advise from an earlier post on the topic “Console Painting” http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...16&postcount=3 it’s Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Ultra Cover 2X Satin Canyon Black.

Here’s how it turned out, the shop camera doesn’t do black very well so the last pic is with my cell. Pretty sure I’ll shoot some nice original black door panels at some point as well with this same color to freshen them up.

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Really came out nice!

Chris