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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Looks good Vic. No doubt it will turn out nice after watching the quality work you do.:metal:
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Oh heck yeah this is the part I have been looking forward to.
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I'm really looking forward to watching this bedside modification..I have shop envy too. Your shop looks too clean and organized.
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That's not the word for it, Mike. Keep in mind it's in the basement of the house. You could be a damn rocket engineer, Vic makes you feel like a dirty slacker. Wrapped in the nicest guy you could hope to meet. Ask him about the '57 Ford sometime!
FYI, this bed is solid, but it's HASHED. It'll be a neat trick to pull this off. Over here eating popcorn.... |
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In comparasin to the other repairs he has done on his cab this is the easy part, where as the cab took months the bed will take a week. It's all precision work there is just much less of it to do on the bed. |
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I'm aware of all the above. I was simply saying we're all in for a treat, as free hanging panels are a bit of a challenge to keep in line, although easily within Vic's skill set. I for one will enjoy the opportunity to enhance my skills through Vic's experience, as I've done several times both in this thread and in person.
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Your approach on the stake pockets is what I should have done :dohh:
Live and learn :ben: Once I cut through the bed rail I lost the straight line and it was a bugger to weld up without it pulling around. |
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Thanks for the vote of confidence, smellers, but after today I ain't so sure it's justified. You know how something seems so perfect on paper, then reality sets in? My experiment with the metal slitting blade might have worked had I chosen more wisely ...hard to say. The blade arrived at lunchtime, so this morning I went ahead and sectioned the passenger bedside using a 6" x .040" cutoff wheel. The larger diameter keeps the cut pretty straight. I set the three pieces I'll need aside and put the driver bedside up on the stands to prep it.
With the metal slitting blade in hand, I set up to section the floor. I've had this EZ Guide tool for a number of years and it works great on wood. I bought it for the rare occasions when someone holds a gun to my head and forces me into carpentry work. The tool allows a loner like me to make cuts that would normally require a couple of persons. Plus it pretty well eliminates the need for a table saw. Anyway, I figured with the appropriate blade, I could setup the guide and make very precise cuts to the floor. Might have worked if I had a more powerful saw or a better or different style blade. Regardless, I spent way too much time wearing my way thru the material, stopping often to cool off everything and mumble swear words. So I abandoned my big plan and whipped out the same thin kerf cutoff wheel I used on the bedside and made short work of the remaining cuts on the rear section. |
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Using the cutoff saw manually is, by definition, less accurate than a guided tool. Even if the line is fairly straight, leaning the blade one way or another can create misalignments when you fit it all together. The good news is that I left enough material to be able to sand it to fit. I'll do that tomorrow, then fixture the rear floor section and start tacking it together. And it's on to the front section next.
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I like that guide thingie-gotta get one o' them. Sorry your blade didn't work out.
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Sorry to read about the metal blade not working out. I have seen those used for metal building panels. I personally like the abrasive blades. They wear out fast when you're doing that much cutting though.
I like to scribe a line with Dykem layout fluid then grind to it. Sounds like you are off and running on the bed shortening chore. Keep up the good work. |
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That was fun Vic, thanks for giving me the grand tour of the shop.
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Nice work on the floor section! I can see where you were headed with the Skill Saw. I put a metal roof on my Pa's house years back and tried the "backwards wood blade" and straight-edge technique. OMG they don't make ear plugs, muffs, glasses or sleeves that are built for that kind of torture. I always thought that if they made the right blade (vs. abrasive) that'd be the trick. Minimal heat and clean, straight cut.
I spy some stuff in your last photo.... New helmet and gloves - need the story... why no Speed Glas? Did you buy that COOL copper backer with the handle on it? I've got a couple flat bars but I mostly use this big-old Tweako welding cable ring terminal, which SUCKS cuz it's got a big-ass hole in the middle! |
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Looks great! I hope to do this some day if i never find a short bed, reading with high interest. :)
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BTW: check out Amazon for helmets too, ya never know. |
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Whah? Speedglas gave up???? To me it's the Snap-On of glasses. Last time I was in the supply store there was tons of stuff but never really looked cuz mine works perfect. I've even been paying $$$ for Speedglas lenses...
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WHOA! Edit... I thought I read "Speedglas gave it up". I get it... YOUR'S gave it up :dohh:, and YES they are $$$ cuz they are the Snap-On of helmets. I'd BEG Wifey if mine bit the dust. Fluke meter the same! Carry on...
:chevy::chevy::chevy::chevy::chevy: |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
I just ran across an old thread i have subscribed too, thought i'd post a link in case you don't have it, it shows how this guy did his bed shortening and dealt with the bed sides ect. Thought it may help?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=195 |
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Finished welding out the rear floor seam and got it ground down close enough for some touch up bodywork later. After the front section is done, I'll need to flip the whole thing over and lay it flat on the concrete so I can hammer out some of the small dents. There's nothing major, but left unattended, even the minor ones will show thru a spray in bedliner. (From what I've heard.) I'll also need to patch a crap ton of holes. The guy Scott got this bed from (or someone else along the line) had a thing for tie downs. Holes big and small, inside and out will have to be patched. No biggie as all the metal is solid.
I've got the front section out and fitted up temporarily. I'll need to sand to my lines tomorrow then start the welding process all over. I took a lot more care laying out my lines this time, so it won't take much to close the gaps. |
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:) Wow!! that rear floor section looks great Vic!
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Decided to satisfy my curiosity regarding where the main problems will be when the bedsides go together. Laid out all three pieces on the floor roughly how they will go and decided the rolled areas at the bottom look the worst. That may change when all the pieces are fixtured together. We'll see.
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Looks awesome Vic. Did the bed floor warp very much as you welded it?
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Great job on the floor! looking forward to the sides of the bed too.
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Vic, if you need bedsides for reference let me know I can bring em by.
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Floor looks great so far!
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Front seam is welded and ground as are all the extraneous holes. Floor is ready to be flipped over and the backside welded and any accessible dings straightened out. But not today ...totally worn out.
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Very nice work Vic, thats alot of welding and grinding for two days.
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Good work Vic, I read where you posted that minor imperfections show thru a spray in liner, that is true. When I built the bed for my welding truck I thought the spray liner would hide more than it did. I was wrong again... I had a LineX dealer spray mine, it looks great and has been on for 4 years, but it does show minor imperfections. ( I had them spray mine 1/8" thick instead of 1/4" )
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Man nice work on that bed floor! Your finish work always looks soo shiny and clean! Your bedsides don't look all that much better than mine did at the start. No question I did more damage than good with my fit-up and welding. On mine, the lower parts of those panels really did kinda conform to each other and line up pretty good when I chased down the joint with those little clamps. I started at the body line and worked my way down. The smaller radiuses above where the body line kinda slopes down at the rear is where that 0.100" just won't "blend" I think. You are going to kill it and set the new Forum "hotlink" on the right way to do it.
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