Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Jeff,
Did you use the sound deadening on the fire wall or stick with the original? Whilst I have everything stripped out would make it easier to make a change now rather than later. I am not a great audiophile in cars, I usually drive in silence or listening to podcasts - might be due to the fact that I can never get my car audio to sound like my home audio so just don't bother. Having said that the factory audio in my old Volvo v70R was probably one of the best I have experienced!. I am going to go with the Kilmat for 2 reasons. 1. Its reasonably priced. 2. Its readily available! What alternative have you ended up using or is it top secret.... Once Woody is back and driving I might be tempted to add a basic bass box and audio...stuff... but for the present will save my pennies for the much needed gearbox. Good to hear your opinion. Always like a good discussion and learn from others. P. :D |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
What I learned when investigating the subject of controlling noise:
Covering everything costs more. If you don't mind the additional expense, installation effort, & weight.... 100% coverage isn't bad. If you're simply trying to remove the 'tin-can' reverb from all the large, flat, steel panels.... partial coverage @ strategic locations gets that job done. Smaller sections/area with curves or hard angles don't really have an issue w/vibration or 'tinning'. A sound barrier over the vibration isolating mat is what helps reduce exterior noise levels. High end vehicles utilize a vibration absorption layer which typically also has some temp barrier shielding (the cheaper quality of the product typically = the cheaper the temp insulating ability). On top of that, a sound absorbing closed cell foam barrier is added to absorb... noise. On top of that is a mass loaded vinyl barrier to isolate what's happening below keep it from your ears. On top of that is carpet w/jute again in strategic locations. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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I agree with you 100%. I base what i am doing off of previous done truck and well honestly it just bugs me if it is not all done, kinda like a spotty paint or tattoos. Now this is only my personal thought but its like a person who gets covered in tattoo that have no connection to the next one or are one continuous piece, me personally i cannot do that. I do not mind it and it can look good, but i cannot. So as your point to deadedning sound, the "tinny" sound is produced on long flat panels and not on curves or bends and you can just add the deadener to those areas (this is how i do the inside of the doors). I think that it is neither right or wrong to put it everywhere, just costs time and $$ for product to put it everywhere. Thanks for the input! With that said, Scoti, what you think about adding it to the roof inside the cabin, where the head liner will go? |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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So i got my stuff either off of ebay or Aamazon honestly. it came two huge rolls, that is all i can remember on it. It came with connection tape by Dynomat. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Jeff, Scotti,
Thoughts on covering the Firewall? Original or aftermarket material? P. :D |
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Vibration dampening/thermal barrier & noise absorption would be the main items. |
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Thanks |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
So I am working on another build, different all together, but still will be built on the same color idea as the truck, Red & Black. With that said, it is made of metal and poly plastics. With that said, i was thinking powder coating parts on it, but the tolerances on this other project must be alot tighter and well Poly will not work with powder coat or at least not easily. So i started to look at what is used on parts of my other project to change the color and found they use Cerakote, so i researched doing this and found that i have everything needed to do it minus the actual paint/Cerakote, well at least until yesterday when my Black and Red Cerakote showed up. So i will give it a try and see what happens. Why i am post this here is that if all goes well, i could then Cerakote parts for the truck that are not conductive metal parts or require much tighter tolerances or very extreme heat. Cerakote will take extreme heat (special formula) and so that gives me more ideas not to try... lol oh goody, here i go... LOL the mind is at work again....
Cerakote is a Ceramic based coating that is mixed with a specific catalyst and then sprayed onto the part with spray gun and then baked in an oven at a certain temp for a certain amount of time. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
You can't leave us hanging like that!
We demand pictures! P. :D |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Pics or it didn't happen.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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ok ok .... here is the other project....
The Cerakote process is not hard at all, just like painting, well sort of. It goes on a bit different than "Paint" and not with a real deep "wet" look, but not hard to do. Worst part is that you must mix it (base and hardner) in none plastic and they suggest shooting out of non-plastic paint holder HVLP gun. So i bought a glass colander for mixing and had a touch up gun with metal paint bowl for the HVLP gun. Went on easy then you must bake it at 350 for about an hour. So i have a spare oven i use for power coating and it worked great. I can now see some very good uses for Cerakote on the truck! |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I like the finish! Wonder what the trim would look like in that....
You now need to hurry up and get the truck done. P. :D |
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok well update on the truck:
So I have finally completed the sound deadner install on the cab and knowing me I put it everywhere (use it for not just sound deadner but heat barrier of sorts), this is not easy and just down right tedious honestly and just a note to anyone installing the stuff use a heat gun, seems to work great for me. I also got the front of the cab sprayed with Por 15 Top Coat Gloss black and it looks great, then I worked on my spray booth for the shop. This was not easy, took some serious time to get the rafters ready for this and now i just need to install the Plastic. I will have the roof in plastic, then the walls will roll down and up and the corners will be pinched together with clips and two box fans with Filters. This will allow me to get the primer on the cab this next weekend! |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Jeff,
Excited to see progress as it looks as if we are mirroring each other - nearly - with where we are. I will start on painting the firewall and floor in October once my bank account has recovered from sending my daughter to University... maybe November then.... P. :D |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Pics as promised....
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Nice install !
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Neat & tidy.
:metal: |
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That worked out well, looks good to me. ;)
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I will say this, i learned a bit about the Por 15 line. So with the standard coating, i put a bit of acetone on a towel and wiped on the surface with the standard coating and it barely did anything, if anything, BUT the top coat, now that is another thing. It actually lost all the shine anywhere where that is wiped the towel with the Acetone. Now to be honest, the standard coating had several days cure and the Top Coat only had a few days, not sure that this matters but this week i will test again just to check, but from what i seen it will. Not that it matters to many, but just a note for some liquids that like to eat paint, Example some brake fluids, fuel ...... |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Looks like I am going to have to up my game Sir!
Did I miss it earlier or have you decided on a paint colour/scheme for the truck? P. :D |
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So my 1969 C10 shorty fleet i built with the LS is Matte Black with Red highlights, so this truck will be Matte Red with Black Highlights... Red is my color and i love the red and black combo... little to no chrome if i have my way. I plan to powder or Ceramic coat any and every "Chrome" part, Door handles, light bezels, yada yada.... This is my vision i have always wanted to build... Also, the paint is single stage from Summit Racing... |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Just a note, not that it matters to this build of mine, but to my 1969 C10, I just bought the Holley Terminator X Max for the LS in the "69. I have a good wiring system in it now from PSI but i want to be able to read info on the motor and i do not have the software to do this and this new system by Holley has it in the little on board screen AND in free downloadable software which i will for sure download to my laptop. I am posting this here for those whom are interested in that system on here. I will give some updates on it here as i get them.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Update: Got the cab all taped off - Damn that took a few hours! then today i applied the brushable seam sealer on and then put in the 2k self leveling seam sealer. That stuff is really some great stuff, easy to apply but you must damn up the two ramps on the back of the cap drip rail. I used brushable stuff to that point. I did not go as far as i should have, so i will have some cleanup to do, but overall it is good.
That means tomorrow is cleanup drip rail, lighty sand and apply coat 1 of heavy primer. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Oh damn, it has been a day or two since i was last on here!! Well Update time: so I am now at the point of applying Primer to the cab and final main bodywork filling and sanding. After that, it will be install onto frame and start the process of Brake lines, Wiring and then body panel fitment.
This past weekend I was able to got the Portland Oregon swap meet for the first time since 2019. Within the first 300 ft I got a almost perfect 1966 Hood and the two "Custom" rear cab moldings in perfect condition, all for 300.00. I thought that was an incredibly cheap price and no shipping. The plan for the hood is to the reverse dual hood scoops, heat vent or whatever you want to call them. There is an individual on here who did this and it looks just incredible and I have wanted to the same for some time. I did a similar thing on my 1969 C10 and I really like it, so now I have a backup if I screw up. LOL The other thing I have been dealing with is a death in the family that took me away for a bit, but all is working out now. I did get my 1969 C10 with the LS Running after installing the new Holley Terminator Max system! So far, it is a great system! More to come on that as I finalize it, but getting ready to get back onto my 1966. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I'm happy to hear you are finally able to continue with the 66. I'll definitely be following along.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Good to see you back in the saddle - now we just need some pictures to augment the text!
Bereavement is never an easy thing to deal with - Keep smiling. P. :D |
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It feels so good to be getting back in the saddle.. never know how much you miss something until it is gone.... |
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Update: So as I have mentioned previously, I have been working on my 1969 C10, trying to get it running and well this past weekend I was able to get it running!! It has an LS and I installed the new Holly Terminator X Max wiring kit and it works great. This needed to be done before I am able to get back onto the "66 and well now it is cleanup Shop time and then it is time to get back onto the "66! I am happy to finally have the "69 up and running and now I just have a "Tune" to do, otherwise all good there.
I left off on the Cab base bodywork. I have some body work to finish and then it is dry fitting onto the frame |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Good thinking on the dry run refit of the cab. I realised I had made a few mistakes in placement of components that would have been... disastrous... if I had bolted it all back together once paint etc had been done.
Look forward to the pictures. P. :D |
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I also plan to modify the hood with reverse scoops (Hood/Heat Vents) and afterwards I want to make sure it fits. So lots of work, but I would have it no other way. It is this perfectionist that makes me take so long on some things, but in the end I think it is worth it. The other thing I have/am learning, but quality, period. That does not mean most expensive always, just means by quality. In the end it will save so much.... |
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Ok, not an update per say on the "66, BUT the "69 LS is running fantastic now!! Damn what a difference with the Holley Terminator Max for LS kit is and then Andrew for the tune!!! I will not bore you with details here, there is a write I did in the LS conversion section on here. What getting the "69 done means is that I now can focus on the "66!! I am really excited. I was in the shop looking everything over, getting a plan together where to start. Exhaust is next actually. I just need to figure out mufflers.
Suggestions for mufflers? I love the sound of Flowies, but ..... All replies welcome. |
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*EDIT* Went over the the LS conversion forum for a look & answered my own question. You made a good choice..... |
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Damn what a great guy. LOL, just seen your update. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quick Update: So because it has been a day or two since I last worked on the truck, the shop became a complete mess, to the point where I have taken a few days to just clean and organize. Bought more damn organizing bins with lids... lol but it is really starting to look ok. I want to start with a good clean shop because this is going to take some time to finish it and I am not a fan of mess..... Sorry, I know these updates are boring and nothing really to do with the truck, but I promise there are some good updates coming.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Hey, Progress is progress, good to hear the 69 is sorted now so that you have something to drive whilst you finish off the proper truck.....
Looking forward to seeing pictures as you start to shout our battle cry...ONWARDS!!!!!! P. :D |
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