Originally Posted by BRL (Post 9274962)

Gutted a cheap $20 Amazon tachometer and stuck it in the gauge cluster.

Heck I don't even care if it's going to work, I have a 3:08 rear, automatic transmission, and I drive like a little old lady.

But it's blue and it matches my stereo face so I'm being stylish these days. :cool:

...come on you guys, where are the complements?
This forum needs a like button. :mad:

Originally Posted by Casper42 (Post 9273568)

finally found a great 1157 LED bulb that is bright, fits and performs...and reasonably inexpensive. Amazon has them in stock at their fulfillment centers so shipping is fast.

My comparison pic doesn't represent the performance perfectly, as photographing a bright light source is very challenging and it blows out the image.

Backstory: I didn't want to swap out the OE lens with one of those printed circuit board type lenses to get some brightness to the back. So over the past year, I have gone thru and tested numerous 1157 LEDs with little success. Many bulbs will not even mount in the socket as they bottom out before you can twist it to get it secured. Others were nearly hyperbright and had not brightness differentiation when you hit the brake pedal. The last ones I had, where the Sylvania 1157s that anyone can purcahse at any autopart store. These worked, but were dim in the standard "on" position, in fact dimmer than incandescent.

In short, if you want to be seen from behind when you hit that brake pedal, and still have better than OEM brightness when just cruising, these are the ones! We'll see how long they last!

Originally Posted by dmack91 (Post 9275818)

I went with a little darker metallic Grey on my ralleys. Nothing like paying $12 for a can of spray paint. Bidenomics

Originally Posted by BRL (Post 9276077)

Those wheels should look pretty good when you're finished.
One time I painted some Nova ralleys with some of that chrome paint and they looked really nice...for about 2 months before they dulled down.
I guess maybe I should have put a clear coat on them.

When I bought my truck almost 29 years ago, the seller said it was originally an OD green Bell Telephone work truck before he had it painted blue.
I believe him now. :lol:

ETA: I couldn't find any touch-up paint that matched this particular color blue on the internet so I had a custom rattle can made up, it was close to $50 as I recall.
You can bet I'll use that stuff sparingly!

Originally Posted by 67 twins (Post 9276131)

A little paint for my cylinder head after getting it back from the machine shop. Had larger valves installed & a little port work done.

Originally Posted by novaX522 (Post 9276211)

I’ve never really looked at an inline 6 head before. The intake port divider wall is recessed a ways.
I see the head bolt comes down that spot as well.

Originally Posted by novaX522 (Post 9276209)

That looks kinda like Bahama blue they used on VWs

Originally Posted by 67 twins (Post 9276361)

It's not really a divider. It's just a bolt boss that runs through the middle of the port. The area behind it is open.

Originally Posted by 67 twins (Post 9276131)

A little paint for my cylinder head after getting it back from the machine shop. Had larger valves installed & a little port work done.

Originally Posted by novaX522 (Post 9276419)

Cool, so each intake port is shared by 2 cylinders? I’ll have to check out an inline 6 head next time I see one. Interesting!

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 9276440)

That's an L6 Head. What size valves did you get?
Not going the full monty Lump Port route, I see. I'm on the fence about trying it on the next build.
[Thinking about '63 MY 292. The cranks of that year are highly featherable.]

Originally Posted by 67 twins (Post 9276446)

I went with 1.84 and 1.6 valves. After reading Leo Santucci's book(2nd edition) quite a bit I came to the conclusion that for a street driven truck this is going to be the best solution. Just a couple quotes from the book. Pg 107 "the head-bolt boss in the middle of the intake ports should be shaped like a wing, but left in place." And Pg 117 "for pure street use and mileage, a 1.80 diameter intake valve is best. The exhaust is 1.60 diameter in either case."
I think you already have the book. If not buy it, read it several times over the next year, then make your decisions. Lol

Originally Posted by novaX522 (Post 9276419)

Cool, so each intake port is shared by 2 cylinders? I’ll have to check out an inline 6 head next time I see one. Interesting!

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 9276551)

Sweet. That's what I did on my 2005 292 build. I rebuilt the original L25 that came in the '68 Fremont Stepside when I bought it in 1973.
In 1977 I rebuilt a MY '67 block to .030-over,but all stock, or GM parts HD, if available. That engine fran 250,000 miles in 25 years.
OBTW, 1.84'' valves are stock for the SBC 307 iirc.

That's an interesting quote from Leo. I only have the first edition.
Lump Ports were the snazzy dog trick of the period.
About 20-something years ago, I was in Daytona talking with Twisted 6, who was promoting Lump Ports. But I must admit taking away those support columns, replacing them with countersunk flush bolts, epoxying airflow Lumps down, and getting machined set screws to fit the holes left on the top of the head, is a machinist's pipe dream [and your high bill.]

I will have to get the Second Edition.
:chevy:

Originally Posted by 67 twins (Post 9276595)

Both of those quotes are in regards to a street driven truck. For street/strip or racing the lump ports are still the way to go. Unless of course you can afford to cut & weld two SBC heads together. But that takes deep pockets because everything has to change.

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 9276553)

But only one at a time. 1 - 2/ 3 - 4/ 5 - 6.
Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.