Re: Rat repair.
 

The tarp has survived 2 days unscathed so i think i'll be ok for a bit.. but i'll keep checking the weather forecast.

I always envision how something is going to be before i start... The first photo represents that, i borrowed it from Fakerwade's build thread...

What i end up with is something entirely different, but it works. LOL! :)

3 thin layers of bondo followed by a thick coat of high build primer, still need to sand the high build back and re hit it with epoxy primer unless someone can tell me if high build UPOL is also epoxy? ether way i have to sand it back a bit as i was in a hurry to wrap it up and get to work yesterday, some of the primer is on un prepped paint.

You cant see it in the pic's very well but directly above the fill hole there is a high spot, i didn't notice it until i started with the bondo, well its not a show truck, it may get reworked before paint or just leave it but i want to keep pressing forward for now, i may be able to just hide it with another layer of bondo. Not sure if this was heat indiced or if it was already present..

Re: Rat repair.
 

Yesterday, at least i kept dry....

Re: Rat repair.
 

Looks real good from what I can see. I used u-pol hi builds. Different animal than epoxy. We quite commonly would spray hi builds on areas over filler etc, and sand it out once dried. Wipe it down, then hit entire car with epoxy. Give it its recommended flash time (usually an hour) and then nail the paint on. (Wet on wet they call it). I had a portable car shelter out here for a couple of years. Wind got up and broke some of the anchor cables. (70 mph wind). One cable held somehow... It looked like a drag cars parachute. With pipe in it. Hahahah. Took the wife 2 days to clean it up. Lol. Good work brother.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Good job, looks great I'd be happy with that!

Re: Rat repair.
 

Ok thanks, I'll certainly sand it down and cover it with epoxy primer to keep the elements out. i'm probably going to realize that high build is harder to sand next. LOL!

My covers have survived some pretty high gusts and storms, all 3 are next to the chain link fence and i have tie downs hooked to the fence, 3 per side on the windy side, one on each end on the other, if a major storm is predicted i also run a couple straps on the inside to the trucks as well. I keep the backs open and the upper part of the front cover open down to the second set of grommets to allow some wind to pass inside. i have had them just snapping tight in the wind at times

Re: Rat repair.
 

Thank you!

Re: Rat repair.
 

Ok, if anyone can give a few tips on what they use to sand in contoured areas i'm listening, I'm getting tired of pulling the skin from the bottom of my fingernail and walking around with a sore finger tip. LOL!

flexible pad of some kind? I have block sanders but they don't help with the tight curves.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Please don't assume that this is the best answer you are going to get, but I've used a kitchen sponge, you know the kind that are about 4" x 2" x 3/4". I wrapped my sandpaper around that and went after some of the contoured areas. It got in there, certainly better than a block, but not sure how evenly it was taking off material.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Drivers door removed, hinges are rebushed and reasembled but not back on the truck yet, the new bronze bushings were a little looser fit on the pins than i had hoped, don't know the source of the pin kit but bought them from Franks in Olympia about 3-4 years ago. Pic's to flow.

My question now would be should i go ahead with door rust repair before remounting? The lower inner door bottom is not rusted thru, just the lower skin is bad.

Re: Rat repair.
 

cut out the rot then hang the door and fit the new panel in place then you can check the fit to the cab.

Re: Rat repair.
 

I was in a hurry when i posted. I mean't to ask if i should go ahead with the lower door skin first and then remount the door and align, then start the rocker work. Or would there be a reason to hold off on the door skin? I hope this clarifys my last question.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Test. Upload pic's from my phone.

Phone upload worked! now of course i know i still need to wire brish and treat the inner ect, when i cut off the lower skin. Not too bad of shape huh?

Re: Rat repair.
 

Not too sure if you are meaning fitting door panel or fitting rocker panel, i know i need to hang the door and get the gaps correct before doing the rockers.

FWIW: i hope things turn around for ya soon! Good to see ya back. :metal:

Re: Rat repair.
 

Hinges..

Re: Rat repair.
 

Here is a 68 four wheel drive I done quit a few years ago it ended up in Arkansas I have got to do another 4x4 soon.

Re: Rat repair.
 

If you replace the bottom section of the door tack it and hang back on the truck and make sure your body lines are good before welding it completely good luck on your project .

Re: Rat repair.
 

I got some hinges from some an 72 doors that are nice and tight. I would think replacing the hinge pins would result the same tight feel. just my thoughts.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Very nice looking door from where I'm sitting. good luck with the lower skin. Those can be a pain.

Re: Rat repair.
 

If you know of any threads where someone else did the same repair send the link.. with my luck it will turn into a cluster.

Re: Rat repair.
 

\

Were they new? do you remember where you got them?

Re: Rat repair.
 

I played with a new toy today, started with a DA sander but was getting nowhere in a hurry so i pulled out my Eastwood portable blaster with the accessory recovery bag. The unit worked pretty well but the trigger was sticking at first. the recovery system works pretty well too, naturally you have to fill and empty a lot. Instructions say not to exceed 125 lb psi, i ran it at 100.

So naturally there is more surface rust lurking under the paint than you might expect, a couple spots surprised me as they were not visable untill the first pass of the blaster. I know blasting can promote warpage so i kept the thing moving so not to generate any heat, altho i still know peening a surface will make it grow too.

I kato marked the two highest concerns, i figure that material will need to be cut out..

Still not sure of the best place to cut the skin? someone told me once but now i cant recall who or where, i think it was suggested about 1" ether above or below the body line.. Any recommendations? The panels i have extend about 4-6 inches above the body line.

Re: Rat repair.
 

If you can get away with an 1' or 2 bleow the panel line is good it depends on the rot and what you have to cut out you might have to cut above.

Re: Rat repair.
 

You can look at my thread for CRLS around post #30, 82-92 and 169. May be more, but I didn't go thru it all. I replaced the door bottoms on both sides and agree it's best to tack them in and test fit the doors before welding them out. Judging from your other efforts, you have the skills. Go for it!

Re: Rat repair.
 

Not new I got them with the 1969 suburban I bought. they gave the all 3 doors as they where complete with glass and trim. the door on the 69 where gutted.

Re: Rat repair.
 

I did some more sanding on the driver door today, it looks to me like i can go with about 3-4 inches off the bottom of the skin, all the metal seems pretty solid above that, the two spots that are circled are still pretty solid, I'll look at them again later to see if i should do a couple small spot repairs.

I noted a couple things today, first is that inside my doors is some type of vibration or sound deadening (?) material definitely sprayed in, not sure if all the doors have this from factory? not sure yet if it will be a pain to remove where i weld.

Next thing i noticed is that if i put a straight edge on the lower body line on both doors the door skin is Not flat from front to back like i was expecting, the center sticks out a little, do all the doors have a contour from front to back? or is it just my luck i have a couple if warped stock panels? I didn't spot blast the passenger side door like i did on the driver door so i know that didn't affect it.

I intended on not having to cut the inner door bottom off, but after my experience with the gas fill door i learned the need to planish my spot welds, not sure i'm going to be able to reach in the inner access hole and hit the spot welds with a hammer at the same time.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Looking at the door i decided to keep the cut low for now, i watched a video, link below, pretty informative but i didn't cut the repair panel yet, i did measure from the bottom of the skin up 8" and marked the door for reference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YurQpXIdWM4

I made my cut and it became apparent that there is built in stress in the door skin, it started to pull inward on the upper part as i was cutting thru. Also the cut is just below the lowest point of the spray in vibration or sound deadening material.

In the pic's its obvious that under the fold of the skin above the cut is surface rust, I'm debating if OSPHO (Phospheric acid) will creep into the fold after i clean the door out, thought i could stand the door on edge and brush it into the creases and let gravity hopefully allow it to creep in.

Any other treatments i should consider? I'm a little concerned about welding and fumes. I have a can of this stuff too.

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-27490.html

Re: Rat repair.
 

A pic of the door with the piece cut out and laying on top..

Re: Rat repair.
 

Good to see you are back into the truck project big-time! Looks like you have some patching to do on the inner door as well, but from the pictures it looks like flat areas. That rust encapsulator does a pretty good job, and it is runny, but I dunno about it seeping into the seam. Wasn't there some seam sealer under that fold (not saying there should have been - I just don't know).

Re: Rat repair.
 

I recommend a product called Gem Rust Killer. It's phosphoric acid with some wetting agents and extenders added. I use a spray bottle to apply it until the surface is wet. It converts the rust to iron phosphate and turns it black. If you don't plan to paint the surface, just let it dry. If you plan to paint over it, you can rinse the area with water after all the rust has converted (turned black) and pat it dry with a towel. Then let it air dry completely before painting. It's the same consistency as water, so it easily seeps into the seams. You may need to spritz heavily rusted areas several times and let them soak. If you want to give it a try, you can look it up on the Google. The folks that make it are in Houston, TX and sell direct. Just give them a call.

As far as the welding is concerned, fumes are always a problem. A respirator is the best way to keep out the bad stuff. They can be a pain, but most helmets have enough room to accommodate one. I never weld galvanized without wearing one. Your lungs will appreciate the love later in life.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Big time feels like lets get nervous time LOL! Yea the inner is fine except the lower flange, nice and solid. I don't think there is seam sealer in the fold over seam on the door, least i didn't see any.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Hey Vic thanks for the tip! i just got off the phone with Bill the owner and it sounds like he has done his research on a great product, a little pricy with shipping in a special container but it will go a long ways, he does business the old fashioned way, that just does not happen in today's world.

Below is a link to the respirator filters i have, good for acid vapors ect, not sure what kind of gas vapors welding creates or what might be created if i weld over any chemicals like Phosphoric acid ect. Do you think i should be good?

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...294936907&rt=d

Re: Rat repair.
 

Get the media blaster out and kill that rust and cut out the rot. Sky had to do both right side doors on my truck inner and outer about 10" up.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Nah! Not time to get nervous. For me, I just figure if I screw it up, cut the door a little higher than last time and start over with a new patch - first try turned out to be practice. I brought up the seam sealer because I'm pretty sure my 78 had it there, which if yours did would likely keep rust converter from getting in there very well.

Re: Rat repair.
 

The only place I saw seam sealer was the fire wall, door jambs. nothing in the doors

Re: Rat repair.
 

First thing i did was scribe my 8" measurement across the door so i didn't loose it, it was just marked with a sharpie.

Keeping with that video's recommendation of cutting a slight angle I measured down 1" and 1 1/4" below my 8" mark and cut about 3 more inches off the skin, the skin still had some rust on the back side, but the remaining skin has no more rust per flashlight and mirror inspection.

However there is still a bit of rust in the seam area. what do ya think, go ahead and go above the body line? I will still coat the inside with the stuff Vic recommended.

I gotta concentrate on not cutting past the skin depth a little better LOL! ;)

Re: Rat repair.
 

It might be easer to replace the door skin and the left inner bottom corner with new panel patches. Then you can media blast the rust inside the door paint to preserve the rest.

Re: Rat repair.
 

This filter would work just fine for you. Phosphoric acid reacts with iron oxide to form iron phosphate which is essentially inert. I don't think there would be much of an elevated danger when welding thru it. That said, your respirator is approved for chemical processing and exposure to several noxious substances so it's a good safety measure to use it when working around vapor irritants.

Your patch is going to be tricky but if you go slow and keep the heat down, it's do-able. If it turns into a goat rodeo, you can always skin it like DWilbur suggested. Keep up the good work!

Re: Rat repair.
 

:lol:

If you have any question, wear the respirator. Welding heat will vaporize alot of things, some don't really bother. The arc can have an odd effect on stuff and the uv can spice stuff up too. Best to be safe. I do a lot of breath holding when I weld.

Good luck with the repair!

Re: Rat repair.
 

Thanks Vic! when i bought this one i was concerned about Muratic Acid vapors, this one coverd that, don't know if any of you guys recall my accidental breathing in of these vapors but they are nasty!

And that Goat Rodeo had been my biggest fear on these doors, If there is a better way to cut the skin i'm all ears, but at least the weld being higher up i can reach in with a dolly and do some planishing.

Re: Rat repair.
 

Ya know my problem is i cant hold my breath very long anymore, LOL!