Originally Posted by lolife99 (Post 3528998)

Looks Good!
Everything you did was top notch!
When you catch your breath,... I'd be interested in purcha$ing a step by step install guide from you.
Make plenty of copies,... I'm not the only one.
Congrats, again.

Originally Posted by menace121978 (Post 3529051)

Fred looks awesome with that front end! nice job man. i had to watch that video again too.

Originally Posted by joe231 (Post 3529118)

dude you flat busted ass on this thing...i'm super impressed :thumbs:

:cong: for making such a killer truck!!

tell the kids...the next LS swap, they have to do it, you can just over-see the work as the shop foreman ;)

Originally Posted by 68 TT (Post 3525312)

I was a machinist in the Air Force for 13 years and worked at the flight test center repairing and building test aircraft parts & equipment and have made & redesigned many things like that over the years. There are a couple minor things you may want to fix if you are going to make a new one.

Where the small metric male threads transition to the hex stock put a 1/4" fillet radius there. It will increase the strength of the part tremendously.

It doesn't need to be that long either. Less length will put less load on the threads if you accidentally lean against it while working on the truck. It would suck to snap that thing off flush with the head. The closer you can get the sensor to the head the better.

If you can make it out of brass or aluminum bronze that would be much better too.

The stainless will need antisieze compound on it to keep from galling the threads and getting stuck in the head plus the galvanic corrosion from the dissimilar metals will cause the aluminum head to oxidize around the fitting possibly causing it to leak down the road.

Aluminum bronze or brass will only need Teflon tape as they are much closer to aluminum in the dissimilar metals range chart.

You could make it out of round stock and just put a set of wrenching flats on it to use more common scrap material.

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc (Post 3529798)

I like this! Regular GMC grill with a 4mm billet insert.

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc (Post 3530142)

I gotta agree with ya John, but I don't really want to change all the GMC badging over to Chebby right now. $$$$! :lol: I am still thinking I will do it when it is time to paint him though.

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc (Post 3530142)

I gotta agree with ya John, but I don't really want to change all the GMC badging over to Chebby right now. $$$$! :lol: I am still thinking I will do it when it is time to paint him though. I'll probably just run a driver quality GMC grill for now.

On another note, my wonderful wife is on her way to Loveland and pick up the module for me. :D And I have just enough left to run to Autozone on the way home and get a fairly decent code reader.

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc (Post 3529798)

I like this! Regular GMC grill with a 4mm billet insert.

Originally Posted by menace121978 (Post 3531887)

bummer to hear the adaptor is leaking and the sensor trouble Bob. you'll get it!! and good luck!!

btw, darker red sounds sweet... i'm planning on a beautiful color called red jewel found on the tbss's. you should check it out. there's so many different shades of red out there... the new metallic red on the titans is amazing too.

Originally Posted by 68 TT (Post 3531918)

With a connection cable and a converter box with your laptop you can read and reset the codes with some free software. I did it with my 03 Tahoe and it helped me diagnose an intake leak.

http://www.scantool.net/obdlink-ci.html

Costs $65 plus shipping.

Originally Posted by Driveway Dreams (Post 3532172)

Bob, that is the set up I want to run on mine too, just need $$. We need to take some pictures of Fred and The Toybox together. Maybe I will just come out one of these days and give you a hand with anything needed. Good work so far man!

Originally Posted by mcbassin (Post 3529299)

I really don't think we can put a .25 radius in the corner. If I'm not mistaken the seal is made on the face of the metric end. Also, I think the length needs to be pretty close to what he purchased because the length of the original sender has to fit inside. I like the idea of using brass. I had thought about the dissimilarity of the metals too. It may cause corrosion in the future.



Bob,
Great progress! You have that puppy just about ready to roll! congrats I know you have some serious time invested.

Originally Posted by Palf70Step (Post 3532390)

Mine is in the drawer, but I think I have the exact same model scanner/code reader. It works on all the vehicles I have except the 70 ( I wonder why ;) ). It has been very useful, even to tell the Kia dealer things about the wife's car before it goes into service.

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc (Post 3533770)

LOL, I closed the hood, rolled up the windows, locked the doors and took the keys in the house. I'll have to put in some extra effort to go do something to it!! :lol: Tomorrow, tomorrow, tomorrow, tomorrow........

Now I'm on the hunt for an 88-98 rear end. I did find one locally at a yard for $275.