Re: 1968
 

I'm a fan of that orange as well! Looking real nice!

Re: 1968
 

Yea I like to color it is the same color that they paint kubato farm equipment. As far as the masking goes. My eyes and hands are not like they used to be. But I will fix up anything I don't like but thanks

Re: 1968
 

Yea i like the orange it is kubato orange

Re: 1968
 

thaks it 's kubato orange

Re: 1968
 

Guys you got to give the old man a break on the masking he's tired.

Re: 1968
 

If I understand you when you asked if thoes were I-6 towers? The motor mount perches are from a truck that had a v-8. what is the difference between inline 6 and a v-8 perches?

Re: 1968
 

Respect! Looks great davis.. You did a good job spraying.. Doesn't look like you need to wait for your bro-in-law after all. :-) Keep at it.

Re: 1968
 

Hot diggity! That looks great!
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Re: 1968
 

Re: 1968
 

you just gotta love a good orange !

Re: 1968
 

only for the body work. I can spray it myself.

Re: 1968
 

guys I did not like the way my masking looked so I fixed it up today. Need to catch up with my black and I am done. as far as the cab is concerned. I gave the floor another coat of I-P-15 today. and fixed the line where the orange and the black on the floor meets.repainted the crowl and now there is no place that needs attention. There was a small dent that only showed up when you paint the gloss. I am satified with the results. I will post pictures tomorrow. battery problem with camera

Re: 1968
 

I started to work on the inside of the cab installing some parts.
First I installed the vent doors. I later found some handles for the vent doors with round black nobs. I am changing them out tomorrow. Then I installed the brake pedal assembly. Which I will need to mount the brake boster and master cly. Then I mounted the sway bar with new blue poly bushings.

Re: 1968
 

Looking good.
Out of curiosity is your front sway bar 1-1/16 or 1-1/8, the reason I ask is because those bushings look like they are the wrong size for the bar, unless of course you took the pictures before you tightened the bolts down, or if the brackets are just bent out of shape, if thats the case nevermind.

Re: 1968
 

Looks real good gdavis!

I think he asked about the motor mount stands because they are mounted in the rear 2 holes. You notice the extra hole in front of the mount? V8 towers go in the front 2 holes and I6 towers go in the rear 2. People use those all the time, works fine you just may have a little trouble working on your distributor (will be close to the firewall). On the positive side it may help with weight distribution (handling) with the engine farther back.

I did notice that your sway bar brackets are installed backwards. the surface that the bushing bolts to should be parallel to the ground. This may cause some of the alignment issue with the bushing that xeen pointed out. Here is a pic of yours along with a pic I borrowed from txfirefighter. The pic from tx is factory riveted piece, see how it is parallel to the ground, that is correct. I am not picking on your work or anything, Just letting you know. you do a fine job. Keep on truckin'
:metal:

Re: 1968
 

Good eye Dan, for some reason it escaped me that they were in backwards, but I did notice they were bent out of shape pretty bad.
It probably would be a good idea to straighten them before they are reinstalled for the final time.
I know I had to straighten mine before they were installed.

Re: 1968
 

thanks for the information I see I will be doing more work again again again. but thanks

Re: 1968
 

[QUOTE=67c10rustbuket;6004813]Looks real good gdavis!

I think he asked about the motor mount stands because they are mounted in the rear 2 holes. You notice the extra hole in front of the mount? V8 towers go in the front 2 holes and I6 towers go in the rear 2. People use those all the time, works fine you just may have a little trouble working on your distributor (will be close to the firewall). On the positive side it may help with weight distribution (handling) with the engine farther back.

I did notice that your sway bar brackets are installed backwards. the surface that the bushing bolts to should be parallel to the ground. This may cause some of the alignment issue with the bushing that xeen pointed out. Here is a pic of yours along with a pic I borrowed from txfirefighter. The pic from tx is factory riveted piece, see how it is parallel to the ground, that is correct. I am not picking on your work or anything, Just letting you know. you do a fine job. Keep on truckin'

Thanks a lot guy for the input and that is why I had so much trouble with the bushings. They still is not right. I guess I will take them off and swat or infronow them. As you stated that the holes on the towers are in the rear holes. well I think I will change that also. I don't want to have to fight the distubtor in the future. Again that is why it sets so far back from the radiator. I put a long nose water pump on the enging but still it sets too far back. I really do thank you for the input and setting me stright. Bryan helps me out a lot and now I am glad I have another eye on things.

Re: 1968
 

thanks a lot for helping me on the sway bar bushings. That is why the bushings seens to be the wrong one's. Again thanks for the thought of the bent brackets. I will strighten them out before I re-install them. I also will change the towers to the front holes. I don't want any problems with the distubtor in the future. You know I even installed a long nose water pump. so the engine would set closer to the radiator. I think I need to get out of the box I am in. Again thank you for everything. Oh by the way what is it called the roof sealer and who seals it.

Re: 1968
 

Well, I got my brake boaster in and painted today. Alone with the master cly. and por. valve. It needs to dry a few days before I attemp to install it. I painted it the same orange as the body.

Re: 1968
 

3M makes seam sealer and so do alot of other companies, I would get the kind that flows because it is easier to work with.

Re: 1968
 

Hey before you go moving that motor check which stands you have in this link. You may have to buy some if yours are I6. I'm not real sure if they will fit, Maybe if you drill the hole in the crossmember? anyway real good pics with explanation in this link.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=442919

Re: 1968
 

I have the right stands. So I pulled the motor forward the 4 inches. It really wasn't that hard. I took the bolts from the transmission cross member on both side and the bolts in the stand and slid it froward. piece of cake. tomorrow I will put all the bolts back in.

I also turned the sway bar brackets and now they fix right. tomorrow maybe I will paint the scratches I put on the brackets if I have time.

Re: 1968
 

Hey guysI have a question. What is wrong with this picture??????

Does the brake boaster look right or is there something I did wrong.

Re: 1968
 

Looking good. Good info to know on those brackets for the sway bar.
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Re: 1968
 

Maybe this will help answer your question, this is a stock 72 brake setup.

http://i.imgur.com/MpU0uTUl.jpg

It looks like to me your bracket/booster assembly is mounted upside down.
Notice how the bracket and master cylinder are angling down not up like on yours and the vacuum booster bung is located towards the engine.

Re: 1968
 

Looking good, GDavis. Don't feel bad about the mistakes. I think you're helping lots of us out who could have made the same ones in the near future. You just got there before we did. I took lots of pics when I took mine apart, but probably not of the right stuff....:lol: Plus, the pics only are helpful if you think and/or take the time to look at them when putting it all back together.

Still snowing here, by the way. :waah:

Re: 1968
 

What's wrong with the picture? No snow on the ground. Obviously photoshopped....

OK, I'll quit complaining about the weather now...:lol:

Re: 1968
 

it pays to take plenty of pictures. I would have never guess i would have turned the backwards. But it works a lot better now.

Re: 1968
 

yea it was in the 80's when i took the picture. I pulled the motor forward and ran in all kinds of problems. But I am glad I did the motor anyway.

I have to pull the motor complently out of the truck. See I lesten to a guy that lives around here. And the cross member for the old standard has another cross member to support the stell bell houseing. well it hits the transmission pan.

Re: 1968
 

Guys let me tell you something. stay with your orginal thoughts on things you want to do. I listen to a friend. Don't get me wrong he thought he was advising me right. I too thought it sounded good . I was going to pull the cross member that supports the stell bell houseing for a standard transmission out. But he said that it would give me more support by leaving it in. Sounds like it should. But, when I slid the motor forward the transmission pan hits the cross member. Even if I could figure a way to keep it from hitting the pan by raising the rear of the transmission up, it still would be in the middle of the pan and if you had to pull the pan well good luck on that. So I am pulling the motor back out and removing the cross member. Here we go again more ribbits to grind. And if that was not enough I have to get another drive shaft for now the drive shaft is 4 inch too short. A member said something about the drive shaft being too short for the 350 engine verses the inline six. I see now why it worked. The motor was to far to the rear.
One step forward and three steps backwards. But on the lighter note I fixed the problem with the distubtor now I have room to install the cap. But I am glad this came up this early in the build.

Re: 1968
 

I will post pictures of the cross member and the motor after I slide it forward. Again I think I should think outside the box or at least investigate the swap I am doing.

Re: 1968
 

I figure out why the booster was in a incline. I forgot the after market bracket. I am not having that it sticks into the engine compartment about have way. So I am ordering another one that looks the way it should. When I took it apart I didn't pay any attention to the distance.

Re: 1968
 

Yeah GDavis there is all kinds of things you run into when you start changing configurations, no worries everyone learns this way.
Right now I'm going through my own troubles with the fuel system for the 2003 Vortec 5.3L but I will get it figured out with some help from people more knowlegable on the subject.
You will get everything figured out also with a little help.

Re: 1968
 

It's no wonder they have a bazillion holes in the frame. They need them for all the cross member configurations, etc.

Re: 1968
 

yes, now there are 8 more holes to go alone with the bazillion.

Re: 1968
 

I want even guess the changes you have had to make with that kind of a engine change.

Re: 1968
 

Today, I pulled the front end off the truck. I did not want to burn the primer while I was grinding the ribbits out.
I also pulled the engine out. I could not get to the top two ribbits without pulling the engine. I even had to jack the front of the cab up 6 inches to clear the ribbits.
I cross cut the ribbits and punched them out and got rid of the cross member. As you can see in the pictures. The cross member is laying on the ground in 3 pieces.
Tomorrow I am going to drill the two new holes for the stands for the motor mount.

Re: 1968
 

I have to remove the manual transmission reinforcement crossmember on mine this week also, I'm not looking forward to it but it has to be done.

Re: 1968
 

Why are you drilling two new holes for the engine perches, the stock V8 perches will fit in the factory drilled holes closest to the radiator, and if they don't then they arent 67-72 v8 perches.