Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I like the tubing in the grooves and the gang clamp, that's good money there. I thought 7 patches and all new crossmembers in mine was a pain! Keep it up, looks great!

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Vic,
You are making the bed mod look too easy. It's obvious you have some serious fab skills. Clever constraining job to keep the bed from twisting and buckling. Keep the pics coming....

I'm not sure how long your truck will be subjected to the sun but I chose Raptor liner for mine based on knowing it will be garage kept. I had real good luck using it on the top and bottom surfaces of my bed floor. I am also using as an undercoating on the inside of the bed sides. It's fairly cheap for the kits, but more than importantly, it lets me do the panels at my own pace. See MORE

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Wow, your bed turned out great. The Raptor product looks terrific, both the black and the tinted material. Did you rent an applicator? I have a spray gun for 3M's undercoating, but it (undercoat) doesn't go on as thick as the bed liner material.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Thanks Vic.
The kit comes with the application gun. I just bought mine on Ebay. I ended up buying two kits, one black and one tintable. The only down side with the tintable, it's a little white not clear as I expected. So it tweaks the color just one shade lighter. I'm pretty happy with the results though. I'm not planning on using it for a work truck. It should be durable enough for hauling an ice chest around.
It's all urethane based so I just go to Oreillys and have them mix the base coat to tint it. (it's recommended to be mixed without the binder). I have heard that all the tinted liners will fade, even the national chain liners.
If that happens I will top coat it with regular urethane single stage. I'll cross that bridge when/if it happens.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Great work Vic. That much work looks like it is worth the $900 for new bedsides everytime I see someone shorten a longbed. You are doing a great job.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I agree reproduction bedsides definately wouldn't be the worst way to spend money considering you would be able to bolt and go, sectioning the floor is where the real savings is because the reproduction floors are super expensive.
This unfortuantely doesn't apply to Vic because he went from a stepside to a fleetside and had to buy the bed to start with, but for those who start with a truck that was a longbed it is certainly true.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

You know, that thought's been hanging around in the background since the start of this project. But as Mom used to say, "In for penny, in for a pound." I'm committed to seeing if this can be done in an acceptable way. I once worked for a guy that said anyone can smother a fire with money. I might go along with that, unless it's me that's on fire! In that case, I'll spend the $$$. ;)

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Very good point Vic.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Brian G. came over yesterday and while he was here I enlisted his help to flip over the floor so I could weld the underside seam. Weld penetration was good for about 60% of the seam, but the remaining 40% needed the reinforcement. With all the welding done, I can lay the bed floor flat on the concrete and knock down the little dents.

Removed and filled in the stake pockets on the driver bedside, then sectioned it. Bunch of pieces on the floor now! Doubt it will go back together as quickly as it came apart. There's a fair amount of hammer and dolly work and holes to weld before I can fixture anything up. Now is the time to do it, though, because access to the backs of the panels won't get any easier once reassembly starts. I've also been cleaning the edges where the various pieces will bolt to the floor. The old seam sealer and caked on filth and rust might interfere with the fit when I start mocking it all up. Or then again, maybe I'm being too anal. Only takes a small amount of effort, so better safe than sorry, I guess.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Nice work as always Vic. Coming together!!

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Looking great! I know to save my bed i'm gonna have to take it apart too, for a first timer (that being me) would you rate it pretty easy? Just the one weld in the back per side and start unbolting everything (including any ground straps and unhook the lights of course) Thanks!

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Yes, it's not all that difficult. As you mentioned, grind the welds at the back of the bedsides, then unbolt the rest. Not all of the stovebolts came out willingly. There were at least three that spun and I was unable to grab with vise-grips. So for those, I tack welded the head in a couple of spots that would be easy to grind once the nut was off. The bedsides are heavy, so you might want to have a helper when ready to take them off.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

The Zip wheel is your friend, at least in my case.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Not much exciting stuff going on. Been welding up holes and doing hammer and dolly work on the pieces of the bed. For some reason, I decided now would be a good time to patch the side marker light opening. Cut out the material I needed and welded it in. When I released the clamps, it went crazy. I had the same problem on my previous truck and blamed the TiG. Used a MiG this time and same result. Tried working out the low spot with the slapper, but it was having none of it. So I cut out the patch along with the frame. The panel immediately returned to the correct shape. I made a second patch and rolled an offset around all four edges then spot welded it in place. No distortion, so I'm leaving it like it is until I get the sections welded back together. It should be rigid enough at that point to finish it out.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Today, I dollied out as many dents as I could get to on the bed floor then flipped it over to begin fixturing the sections. I'd bought a new front panel this past fall and when I pulled it out of the box, it was seriously twisted. So I made a panic trip to Classic Parts and exchanged it for one that was only bowed along the bottom lip. Brian G. is coming over tomorrow to help me use the shrinker to straighten it out. Hate working on brand new parts, but the counterman was real upfront and said it wouldn't be likely to find a perfect one.

The initial fit on the driver side looks pretty good, even without using any butt clamps. Need to trim a little in a few places to get a closer fit, but it should be no problem. You can see the offset between the body lines in the last photo. Not as bad as I'd envisioned, but it will still be an interesting exercise to make it 'flow" seamlessly.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Looks great so far! That flat bar or angle you've got clamped under the bed rail is a great idea too. The mis-match at the roll is about the same as I had. Anxious to see how you tackle that.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I'll give it to ya Vic, I couldn't imagine attempting what you're doing, and you make it look like a piece of cake. :thumbs:

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Nice work Vic. Good luck on the bedsides, looks pretty challenging.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I ran into the same issue ish on the s-box. If you have a smidgen of prior damage/deflection, it will go BUCK CRAZY when you weld/heat anywhere near it. It was a challenge to get it back halfway close! Can't wait for the next installment. Sure enjoy your work.

I'd also say, while we're talking about beds, I don't know where you're at on a tailgate, but get and redo/repair an OEM one. The repro's fit pretty good and look pretty good, but have the consistency and constitution of a beer can. We've dented Yeller's three times since it's been finished. We're looking to replace it long term.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Thanks, Chip. WRT the tailgate, I've already put the swap meet on the original one. About the only thing worth saving on it was the Chevrolet stamping in the center. I haven't pulled the repro out of the box to inspect it, but if it's like the front panel, it's the Taiwanese version of 16 ga. (equivalent to a Falstaff beer can).

Speaking of the front panel, Brian G. came over this morning and together we straightened out the bow in the bottom lip and attached it up to the floor. Fits perfectly now. We then mocked up the front section of the bed using the panel and holes in the floor as our guide. It's going to work out great.

While he was here, we discussed the problems with the passenger side sheet metal and how it might be better to at least buy repro for that side. I got to thinking I'd already invested $140 in what appeared to be a thin, marginally usable patch panel. For another $335, I could have the whole dang thing and not have to fill the side marker hole and do all the other repairs. Looked at the clock and said, to heck with it ...I'm goin' for it. Made it to Classic with time to spare and exchanged the patch panel and the $$ for a complete bedside.

However, the euphoria was short lived. After getting home with it, I bolted on the wheel well and noticed right away that the holes in the bottom ledge of the panel didn't match up to my OEM piece. Went ahead and positioned it on the floor and the depth of the problem was immediately evident. In order for the wheel well to fit, I'll have to do major surgery to relocate the captive nuts where the wheel well attaches. Two steps forward...
:waah:

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Hrmrmrm... Mine on both sides popped right together with no problems. Both of mine came from Ron Manes in Odessa, Mo. You may wanna give him a call and see which brand you got. I don't have the box, or I'd look for you. Anyway, I think there's 2 or 3 brands, you might give it a check on. Sorry it didn't drop right on for ya.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

lol. thats awesome Vic :) that'll make the conversion a lot easier.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

That new bedside looks like it has its own set of problems, which is scary because I have two repro bedsides. I wonder if the fitment is just on factory floors.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Don't think so. Chip had no problem with his repop bedsides mating to a factory floor. As he stated, (and I can confirm) there IS a difference between aftermarket manufacturers. I think I got a bedside that might work better with the same vendor's wheel well. Below are some close-ups of the mismatch between the OEM bolt holes in the wheel wells and the corresponding holes in the repro bedside. Where the inside of the wheel well attaches to the bedside, all the holes line up fine. It's just that when you put the bedside on the floor, the bolt holes on the perimeter of the wheel well are out of position. However the remaining bolt holes where the inner lip of the bedside rests on the floor are okay. So the issue is probably with the construction of the bedside inner panel by this particular vendor.

Not sure if your version of Porterbuilt suspension will force you to raise the bed floor or not. If not, and you want to compare the fit of your bedside, when the weather clears and you have some free time, haul the right side over here and we'll test fit it. That would tell us both something. ;)

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I will definitely do that Vic. I bought these last year and I think the guy I bought them from had them for several years prior to selling them. Hope these are from the good batch.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Still a lot of welding and grinding ahead good luck buddy.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I'm wondering if the issue isn't the bedside but where the floor was cut in both the front and the back, perhaps the preportions are incorrect and it is throwing everything off, for example if it's an inch too long in the front and an inch to short in the back then the wheel wells wouldnt line up, I'm just spitballing here.
The only way you can know for sure is to measure someone elses shortbed or try a known good bedside on your floor.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I think I'd return the bedside and consider trying another from a different supplier.

I thought i was the only guy that took 2 steps forward and 4 steps back..... :) Keep at it!

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Actually, the problem is evident just by bolting the wheel well to the repro bedside without even setting it on the floor. Which makes me think the issue is with the bedside inner panel. The comparison you suggest is a good idea, though. I talked with Scott last night and he's going to haul his bedside over here and do a side by side. Will let you know how it goes.

Nope, I'm right there with you when it comes to lurching thru a build. ;) As for returning it, that's a crapshoot based on past experience. The dies they use to stamp these parts and the fixtures used to assemble them are, in many cases, slap wore out. If you luck into a part that fits really well, you should count your blessings. It's 3 degrees and snowing outside, the hot water line to one of the sinks in the bathroom is frozen, but the workshop is warm and welcoming so I think I'll just dig in and fix it.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Guess that went out the window huh? :lol:



Ahh, man it's been a long time since I have been on here, and I am never disappointed with your build Vic. The amount of attention to detail in your builds is nothing short of spectacular.

From what I can decipher, it looks as though you are going to a fleetside bed on this one?

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Originally Posted by Vic1947
I'm determined to use it as a daily driver and not over restore it like my other truck. My goal is to address the safety and reliability issues as well as the sheetmetal shortcomings. I doubt it will get anything other than a good coat of epoxy primer and I currently have no plans to convert it to discs or 5 lugs.

Yep, fleetside it is ...more room to haul gravel. As for the DD goal, it's still the plan. I just happened to find more "safety and reliability" issues than I'd envisioned. ;)

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Well, the fix is in (almost). Removed the wheel well attachment area from the old bedside, cleaned it up and traced a cut line on the new bedside. Took a deep breath and sliced that malformed sucker out of the brand new piece. Trimmed the edges and mocked up the patch. Not too shabby. The lip that tacks to the outer wheel opening was a bit out of whack due to the damage to that panel behind the wheel opening. Marked where the formed OEM break was originally located and dollied the lip down. It still needs a little bit more but the line is crisper and it's laying down better.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

These photos don't tell the full story, but the center to center dimensions for the holes are now where they should be. It will really be obvious when I set the panel and wheel well on the floor. I'll do that before any welding to make sure everything lines up correctly. Then it will be time for welding, grinding and hopefully just a tiny bit of filler.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I'm really enjoying this build: great craftsmanship, great descriptions, and great pictures. Definitely subscribed.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Going to definitely be one of the nicest trucks on the road. Looking forward to following along a little closer

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I'm glad to hear you were able to make a small adjustment and make it work.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Much better! Nice work!

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

You sir are a brave man!~ :) Its only about $335 that you just cut up. Glad its working for you!

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Had to spend the night out of town yesterday in order to take my Dad in for cataract surgery this morning. While I was in Sedalia, stopped by best bud Steve Smith's shop and picked up the air/fuel ratio gauge faces he modified for me. I wanted them to match the rest of the gauges from Classic, so he did the artwork, got them printed on vinyl and then transferred the decal to the spare gauge face they ship with the AEM units. When my old school engine finally fires, I'll be rockin' the caveman version of an ECM. Below is before, after and side by side comparison with the tach.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

That is some crazy stuff about the holes being that far off on the bed sides. Looks like you have it back on track.

Very nice gauges too.