Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
I started to shorten the bedsides tonight. I was pretty nervous making the first cut but it's working out pretty well so far. I decided to eliminate the stake pockets to minimize the complexity of the cuts. I'll install some different tie down points later, since that's all I ever use the stake pockets for anyway.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...022_170512.jpg http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...022_185809.jpg http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...022_204356.jpg |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
Nice job! Are you taking 8" out of the back as well?
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Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
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I will be cutting the rear down by 8” as well. I’m also hoping to install a hidden fuel filler behind the tail light while it’s split apart. |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
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Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
Nice job, casey.
Are you keeping the step bumper? |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
It's funny how tastes are different and they even change over time. Before I would have preferred a shortbed, now I'm liking it as a longbed.
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Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
Rear cuts were made and tacked back together and then I ran out of wire.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...024_140644.jpg http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...024_145722.jpg I did cut away some of the structure behind the tail light pocket to prepare for the hidden filler. The gas door mechanism I had on hand was way too big to adapt so I've put that idea on the shelf for now. |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
Have you decided which method you're going to us for shortening the frame?
Here's the method I would use: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=123624 . And i would use these for extra measure: https://www.brotherstrucks.com/63-72...tinfo/FRK6372/ . . |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
I still have some of these for reinforcement when shortening the frame.
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=766739 |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
I have the CPP plates already. I plan to make the cut under the cab and have a mobile welder come to finish it up since my little 110 machine isn’t gonna cut it. I sent the bearing retainer out to be cut down to fit my bellhousing yesterday. Once that is back, I’ll install the trans, measure for the driveshaft and start cutting...
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Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
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. I'll be following your progress. |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...026_163839.jpg
It's all stitched back together. I've borrowed some extra jack stands from my neighbor so I'm ready to go as soon as my parts get here. I have a youtube playlist of truck-shortening videos on heavy rotation while I wait... |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
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Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
Damn Fine Work sir!!
I cheated when i did my "69 and bought new sides, mine were shot, expecially after i tried to shorten them. |
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Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
Thrashed all weekend to beat the bad weather. I pulled the bed off, got it set up on stands and supported, battled the driveshaft and eventually won, and disconnected fuel/brake/wiring/exhaust. I had marked my cuts on Friday night so I double-checked them and then...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...031_141619.jpg I didn't take many pictures of the process because 1) I'm terrible at stopping to take pictures and 2) the process is very well documented already. I didn't really do anything differently than the Brothers Trucks kit would tell you to do. I used the CPP frame channels and I had to trim about 3" off each to fit between a rivet for the suspension crossmember and the parking brake crossmember. I spent all morning reattaching the cab mounts, lining up the frame and drilling bolt holes. This afternoon I cut and re-flared the brake line, bled the brakes (and forgot to put in the prop valve stopper so had to reset the valve, doh!) and rolled it back out to install the bed. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...101_163722.jpg Even before this work, the passenger rear corner of the bed sat high. Now with the shorter wheelbase and bed it's really obvious. I'm going to have to take it to a frame shop to get this fixed. The drivers side body lines are aligned. The passenger side bed matches up to to the cab but then takes off toward the sky from there. The cab is the same distance off the frame on both rear corners, so it's gotta be the frame. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...101_171813.jpg http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...101_171823.jpg I'm waiting on my buddy to modify my new transmission's bearing retainer but I can splice the exhaust pipe back together and get the parking brake system all put back together in the meantime. And I have a set of 2" lowering blocks ready to go in... |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
I've straightened frames with judicious use of heat, or by strategic placement of weld beads.
My take on it is: "It's messed up. I can make it less messed up." |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
It is tempting to try to fix this myself but in this case I'm going to defer to the guys with experience and equipment :)
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Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
Did you weld the Brother's kit in?
If you didn't, you could try supporting the frame at the cut/splice, loosening all the through bolts, let gravity do its thing, and re-tighten all the bolts. |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
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I did notice the same problem with the corner being high before I ever cut the frame. I think it's just more noticeable now that the end of the bed is 20" closer to the cab. I'm pretty confident its a twist in the frame and that the frame shop can straighten it out. The truck also has a pretty good driver's side lean, maybe the frame work will help with that too. |
Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
Nice truck and nice work!
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Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
So I have to admit that I was wrong and SkinnyG's suggestion was right. I decided to try it again but go further and it straightened out. I lined up the mobile welder - seems like he did a good job, and the truck is pretty dang straight now. I'm still in the middle of the trans swap and I'll have a more detailed post on that when I'm done...but I'm happy the truck is solid and straight again!
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Re: 1964 C10 Survivor
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I was impressed with how heavy of gauge cpp's were, and they are a really nice tight fit. So tight I would think they would be almost impossible to get back out even before welding. |
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