The bags are Air Lift Company 2B6 Generation II 180PSI Single 1/2" Port.

I can't really judge how much of a drop they give since I don't know what the factory spring height was. I do have the frame notched 2", so I guess you could measure the distance from the frame to the top of the axle tube, add 2", and get the amount of drop.

Anyone know that measurement for a factory coil spring truck?

did they come with that bottom connecting rod and plate? also, i don't really feel like notching my frame, so does your axel actualy use the added space provided by the notch?

u didn't mention anything about changing your shocks in that instalation page so im assuming you were able to keep what you had... correct?

The bags do come with hardware, but not that particular bolt. It's just a 4" bolt and lockwasher from the hardware store.

The big shiny washer is to prevent the bolt from actually pulling into the trailing arm when tightened (20 ft/lb in my case). The hole formed where the trailing arm halves meet is kinda big and oval shaped, so a large washer is needed. I made it out of aluminum because 1) it polishes up nice and pretty, 2) I've got a stack of aluminum "slugs" laying around just itching to be made into washers, 3) they look trick.

The subject of notching the frame is up for debate. At the board meet back in August, TxFirefighter showed up in his truck with a 6" ECE drop in the rear. With his "DeathCycle™" in the bed and two people jumping on the rear bumper, it never bottomed out. I figure my C-notch will be used mostly when parking the truck and trying to look cool. It may get used everyday if I drive the truck around very low, but I won't know that for a while...you've seen the pictures! :rolleyes:

how does that bolt connect to the bottom of the bag? lol, im not worried about getting a washer... i have alot of the same stuff laying around. about those shocks... i noticed that the kit from ECE had the relocating brackets aswell as a diff panhard... do i need all that crap?

a threaded insert on the bottom of the bag is used to mount the bag to the trailing arm

I see... sounds easy? any thoughts on the shocks?

I haven't given a lot of thought to shocks themselves (I'm open for suggestions - SCOTI, BaggedC10, N2TRUX?), but the Early Classic shock relocators and extended panhard bar are good pieces. I'd go so far as to say the extended panhard bar should be mandatory when lowering a truck this much. With an extended arm, side-to-side movement is GREATLY reduced.

Of course, you don't have to buy the Early Classic bar, you can modify your own.

I woudldn't be so concerned about doing all the relocating of mounts etc. if i could be sure that they came with a decent set of instructions... ya know?

its cake...

so ECE is all bolt on then... that sounds like what i need... im better witha wrench then a welder...

so from ECE id just want the upper/lower shock relocater kit...
and then the adjustable panhard...

do you know if the super track bar kit would take the place or improve on the adjustable panhard?

The super track bar is an adjustable panhard bar. It replaces your factory bar. It mounts to the driver side of the frame in the same place, but instead of running to the center section of the rear end (the "pumpkin"), it runs to the passenger side trailing arm. This extended length is what lessens the side-to-side movement of the rear end during such an extreme drop.

Many people lengthen their factory bar and make a bracket to bolt to the passenger trailing arm, but for me it was easier to just order the kit.

yah, im thinking the same thing...

thanks for all the help

Here's a link to some tracking bar info

El Linko

thanks, this is looking more and more feasible...

I know some guys have hardons for 'custom' lowered shocks but I personally don't see the need. If you can get the correct length shock for your application, that's what I would use (and do use). I have Gabriels on my 74 & either Gabriels or Monroe HD gas on my beater. The rears for my 74 were a little tricky to find but after looking through the catalog w/ride height measurements in hand I found the right ones.

One thing I do recommend is matching the shocks front to rear to help keep rebound/ride as consistent as possible. So if you use Monroes in the front, try & find the same style shock for the rear.

i'll keep that in mind...

So when you guys ordered the schock relocator kit from ECE, did you order the ones with the schocks or with out? I dont have any shocks for my truck what shoould I get?

I am another one who drives their truck daily. Not only am I bagged, but I am also body dropped(truck measures 2 1/8" from ground to bottom of door when layed out). I have put so far 29,000 HARD miles on my truck over 2 years & 3 months without a single problem with the bags.

I used Firestone 2600# airbags with single 1/2" port, Parker 1/2" port/15mm orfice electric valves, 5/8" stainless steel hardline from front to back, York 210 engine drive compressor, 2 Aluminum 7gal. airtanks with 1/2" ports. I fabricated my own upper & lower cups for the front & fabricated my own triangulated 4 link for the rear.

Installation is not that hard with the right tools and some basic knowledge. The main thing that will give you problems is not checking for adequate clearance around the bag while it is both inflated and deflated. If the bags rubs, it will blow up eventually. The other problem you could run into is using cheap fittings. I have seen quite a few of the plastic PTC fittings break, only use the brass ones. Also make sure you have a clean, straight cut on your airline(and make sure it is DOT airbrake line). This will assure a leakfree connection on the PTC fitting. Also, do not route your airline near the exhaust and make sure it will not get pinched in the suspension while it is articulating.

One last thing, while this may be ghetto as hell, you can use "gas" ball valves from Home Depot as temporary valves....... You can also use "soft" copper for cheap & TEMPORARY hardline. Use 45 degree flare's instead of compression fittings(flares hold higher PSI and can be taken apart & put back together like a swage fitting where as compression will need a new crush sleeve). Just be aware that copper can fatige after awhile.

Cheap air tank? Go to a wrecking yard that has big trucks(tractor trailers,ect...). Look for air tanks there. You can get them in aluminum or steel. Expect to pay from $5-$25 for a steel tank and $35+ for an aluminum one. If going with steel, try to get one off a "fresh" truck and one with the least amount of rust as possible. Also good source for air guages, DOT line in short legnths and fittings...

I have read a lot of this thread but not "all" of it so excuse me if this has already been said. If you are going to drive a bagged truck every day, leave it aired up when you park at night. If you do get a slow leak, you will know about it "before" you leave the house.... :cool:

hey, i just bought some of those rear bags like urs mr shelley.... turns out, the bottom of the bags have the same threaded 2 holes like the top does... (for mounting purposes)... anyway, ive designed up a bracket that should solv my mounting issue. anyone have any comments on it? do you think it will work? i want to get some opinions before i either make it myself or have it cnc'd...

oh, the bracket is 3.5 inches tall to compensate for some of the drop (i didn't want the rear end dropped as much as the bags would drop it alone....) so with the bag (7 inches inflated) and the bracket, it will all be about 10 inches. thats still 2 inches shorter then the spring... but when deflated, it will drop significantly. abour 5 more inches... i might even make it the bracket a bit shorter, possibly 2.5 inches tall

and it is as wide as the trailing arm... about 3 inches wide and 6 inches long

This just came across my mind... I made that bracket to compensate for the entire spring length (uncompressed). Does anyone know how long the springs are when compressed under normal load? b/c i think i should make compensation based on that length instead.

Your bags have two threaded mounts on the top AND the bottom? I've never seen any like that (not that I'm an expert or anything). Maybe someone else can shed some light on this.

yah, i was a little surprised to say the least...
oh well, if i can make it work. i dno't really care all that much...

what do you think of my plan??

The first set of Firestone 224C's that I got had (2) studs & (2) holes + air inlet. The second set of Firestone 224c's I bought are (2) studs + air inlet & (1) hole (centered).

yah, well these arn't firestone... the ones that came with the coolride(front) are l ike what you described scoti... but these are a diff brand.. airlift 2600's

u have any opinoins on the bracket setup scoti?