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Re: back half projects
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Re: back half projects
Ha ha! You aint kidding! A lot of monster torque too! Yeah, It'll probably never happen. Just keep her pro/street. Mild and little wild! Only in a poormans dreams!
I'll just stick with watch'em at the track! Quote:
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Re: back half projects
TTT
I am going to use The Ladder Bar with Floaters with Leaf Springs in my application on my truck. I like the Triangulated 4 Links, but will just stick with the plan for now since I wont be Drag Racing! My dad will be helping with that since he just started his buisness. http://z3.invisionfree.com/Shadyside...showtopic=9105 How Ladder Bars Work: http://www.competitionplus.com/2004_...s/chassis5.jpg The Ladder Bar is a more sophisticated traction device because it serves as an extremely rigid, bridge-type truss that locates the rear axle housing directly to the chassis. With the axle housing held firmly in place, the torque applied to the differential is now transferred immediately through the Ladder Bars and into the chassis. By using the Ladder Bar to carry power to the chassis, the front end reacts by rising. As the front of the car travels upward, rapid weight transfer is created which "plants" the rear tires and propels the car forward. Housing Floaters Eliminate Suspension Bind: http://www.competitionplus.com/2004_...s/chassis6.jpg When using ladder bars with a leaf spring rear suspension, the axle housing cannot be rigidly attached to the springs. If it were, severe binding of the rear suspension would occur because the Ladder Bar and the leaf spring both travel in separate competing arcs. By allowing the housing to rotate and glide on the leaf spring, the Floating Housing Mount eliminates the bind and allows the Ladder Bars to work the way they were designed. |
Re: back half projects
I watch the orange gremmie at the track near me. The thing runs low 8's in the modified super street class and is a blast to see in person. :metal:
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Re: back half projects
4 Attachment(s)
Heres what i did, mainly raised the frame rails up (8").. Its still stock width.. Can always raise it up if its too low, real hard to lower if it was built high..
(panard bar and axle pads where put on later, pics were taken @ time of mock up):devil: |
Re: back half projects
Wow that looks good :metal:
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Re: back half projects
That is one sweet set up!
FYI: Key Performance Benefits of a Ladder Bar or Fourlink Suspension Substantially improved traction control over existing suspension. Helps eliminate wheel hop, chassis "squat", and other adverse launch characteristics. Potential to shorten 60 ft. times through additional suspension adjustability even if car currently hooks well. Which one is best for my application? Selecting a fourlink or ladder bar suspension Benefits of a FOURLINK: The improved suspension adjustability is the greatest benefit and can shorten quarter mile times, or more specifically, 60 ft. times through fine tuning of the instant center to yield an optimal percentage of rise for varying track or traction conditions. They are well suited for short wheelbase cars that have minimal clearance from the rear axle centerline to the drivers seat. They are also well suited for Street Rod and Pro Street applications where uneven road surfaces are encountered which can be compensated for by running the bars in a parallel fashion. Benefits of LADDER BARS: A Ladder Bar suspension is a substantial improvement over a stock suspension that may utilize a pair of leaf springs or trailing arms and helps eliminate spring wrap-up on leaf spring equipped cars. It is quite easy to install and maintain, and typically requires fewer floorboard modifications. Adjusting a pair of ladder bars is quite easy due to the fact that there are only adjustment holes at the front of the bar. The remaining adjustment is in the lower portion of the bars and is for returning the pinion angle to its correct position at 1 to 2 degrees nose down in relation to the driveshaft. Still Uncertain? Maybe this will help. If your primary concern is to go drag racing and achieve the best possible 60 ft. times and possibly run te only adjustment holes at the front of the bar. The remaining adjustment is in the lower portion of the bars and is for returning the pinion angle to its correct position at 1 to 2 degrees nose down in relation to the driveshaft. |
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