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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
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Your battery charger is definitely big enough, you only need a couple of amps for this to work |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
Great info - Thanks
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
Thanks fleetsidelarry, I have the clamp touching the water. I am using the clamp from the charger attached directly to the hood spring. I will clean off a spot on the part and keep the clamp out of the water and see if it makes a difference. Yes, the charger was putting out. What do you think of placing another charger ( same 15 amps ) on the other side of the tank?
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
Thanks to fleetsidelarry for making suggestions that got me on the right track. I am now removing rust by electrolysis. It turned out to be a faulty battery charger.
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
Has anybody ever tried this on a set of brake drums? I'm a little concerned about the embrittlement I've read about here. Not sure if it would be a problem or not.
Any thoughts? |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
From what I have read there is no harm to the metal at all. Only the rust is removed and does nothing to the metal. I also read that you could not leave it in too long. That is the upside, after you put in the water and hook it up there is nothing to do until you take the piece out.
:metal: |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
2 Attachment(s)
I am liking this process! I cleaned up a a rusty set of springs in about three hours each.
Attachment 565499 Attachment 565500 Ready to paint!! Starting with red oxide primer |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
I ct off a 55 gal poly barrel and I can put about 30 gal of water and soda mix in it. I attached four long pieces of rebar equally apart around the inside of the barrel and connected them all with heavy wire. Then all that was left was attaching the battery charger to one of the post of rebar and the other the the piece I want to derust. I have done about 5 parts but it is there and ready to use whenver. I like to use this because it works unattended.
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
Could you not coil the rebar to the inside diameter of the bucket or barrel?
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
I use a chunk of fencing that I rolled up and stuffed in the bucket around the outside wall. It works better after the galvanizing came off. I had to add a rebar or two at first. I use a steel tie wire with stainless hose clamp for the under water connection, then wrap it around the PVC pipe and clamp it down with the Black lead above water.
I have cleaned so much stuff since discovering this process, No more breathing rust dust with a grinder and wire wheel!! . |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
Just like bubba327 states anything you can wrap around the inside of the container will work. Like they say it is directional so if you go all the way around it is better. I am going to double the amount of rebar that I have even though mine works fine now. I really like this process it is easy,clean, just put it in and forget it for a while. Mine has a permanent place in my shop.
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
One note of caution on doing this inside your shop. This process generates hydrogen gas which is explosive. It is better to do this outside where you have some air flow to clear out the hydrogen gas than inside where it is trapped.
Regards, Steve New Orleans |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
you know one of my buddies has a setup like this in the back of his truck. he is making hyd gas & has it plumbed to the intake of the engine. he says he is getting free fuel, but he is on his third alternator. he has only blown up one generator so far. but this could be a whole new market- de-rust while you drive! just put your rusty parts in your hyd generator & by time your home from work parts are clean! hey i use 50 / 50 water & white vinegar to derust- wonder if the solution would benefit from vinegar in it?
andy |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
The smaller the charger the longer it takes. I used rebar too and it didnt seem to work as well. I did half a wheel and it stripped the paint and removed the rust. I thought it worked well, but took forever. I tried a smaller part and it went much quicker.
I would have to think there is some relation to what metal is "pulling" the rust to what metal is "dropping" the rust. I want to try a pc. of sheetmetal and wrap around the container then dip my part. Think it may work better. |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
:agree: You are so correct slorio, I only keep it own when I have all three of my roll up doors open. I have left it on overnight but I have a full ridge vent and I open the doors immediately first thing in the morning. You offered some very good advice.
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
Not yet Larry
But I did find an old school one and tried it out After 3 hrs it only seemed to remove the looser rust,the tight surface rust was still evident,after leaving it overnight same thing I'm going to play around with how I've got it wired up The more I think about it : current takes the path of least resistance which is at the surface of the solution (this why fish don't fry when lightning hits the ocean),so I'm thinking I might try isolating an anode to the bottom of the tank forcing the current to pass through the solution instead of just at the surface Any thoughts on this theory Thanks,T |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
63sbssbbw: I'd agree that the current is going to seek the path of least resistance (which is one reason not to put anything carrying current into the solution but the rusty part itself. for instance, if you attach the battery charger clamp directly to the part and lower the clamp into the solution, the path of least resistance will be between the clamp to the rebar instead of between your rusty part and the rebar, and you'll reduce the effectiveness of the process) but I don't see why that "least resistance" path would necessarily be at the surface. It doesn't seem to be in the properly working versions I've seen, including my own.
IMO it sounds more like bad connections. As I mention before to Muleman, I make an effort to make sure that the current is going to and through the part. Over-night should show significant results. It won't hurt to put an anode on the bottom but you'd have to be extra careful not to let the part to be cleaned touch it. I guess your "new school" charger is still kicking off? |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
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Re: rust removal by electrolysis
from an article on rust removal by electolysis in Rod & Custom:
http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/u...rittlement.jpg |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
So it appears that a little time in the oven at 375-400 cancels the excess hydrogen causing the embrittlement.
I agree with not exceeding the temperature suggested as tempered parts such as springs would begin annealing. Well, I missed the one hour window on the coil springs , so I will let you know if they fail in the future. Thanks for the updated information , keep it coming! |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
I use an old Hobart TIG/AC/DC welder as a power supply in my 55 gallon plastic barrell... Works very well and you can adjust the current to whatever works best for you... I like 8 amps personally, and have done many parts ove rthe years...love it!!!
--Mike |
Re: rust removal by electrolysis
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