Re: Pipe Notch
 

I also definately learned something from ths thread. I guess this is another situation were logical reasoning and engineering bump heads! I'm just curious about how crunch the numbers on a boxed section of frame. This info will come in very handy in the near future.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

All of this is exactly why i post here. I came to this site to look for fresh ideas and information and thats exactly what i get, and am very appreciative of that. I have never been to any other forum where the people are so helpful and respectful to each other; i love it! This site is what has kept me moving on my project, and i thank yall for that. :flag:

Re: Pipe Notch
 

:agree:

Re: Pipe Notch
 

To bridge the structure where the weaken point exisits could restore or even improve the rating on the frame but who wants a dinner triangle hanging under the truck? LOL

Re: Pipe Notch
 

I guess to make a more extreme example, using the 4.75'' frame rail from page 1 (d).....what if, centered on the frame rail, one was to holesaw a 3'' hole thru the frame. What does this do?

My father was an engineer at Caterpillar for 40+ years so I'm used to physics, equations, and math blowing holes in my 'common sense'.:lol:

Re: Pipe Notch
 

That CAD stuff is cool. I don't even want to know what it says about this.:lol: Well I do kinda. Maybe it's better not to know.:lol: I'll just drive slow most the time. Not

Re: Pipe Notch
 

Man I love this stuff!!

Am I reading this wrong or is the c-notched frameW/ box and repad showing to be stronger than stock? Also wondering how well it would work if you were you put a second arch inside the frame rail? Maybe using 6" pipe? And am I interpreting the procedure correctly where the re-pad is actually replacing part of the frame?

I personally appreciate all the time you've spent on this. It's been a real eye opener for me and will help me build a better truck.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

This is an interesting discussion.

Could you post the section modulus for a square tube shape? Like you did above for the C channel.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

would something like what i've drawn here on my work table restore some of the lost strength? its simply the remainder of 1/4'' wall pipe with 3/16" plate on both sides.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

I sat down tonight to try & decipher my set-ups values but seemed to be getting lost somewhere because of the notched area. Man, I wish I was better @ math calculations.

I'm tired so I'll try again tomorrow :lol: ....

Re: Pipe Notch
 

John, I think you opened pandora's box of frame mod calculations! :lol:

Re: Pipe Notch
 

John, Thanks for the link. I can use that...

Re: Pipe Notch
 

Fabrication would be a hight, but the way I see in is:
1. weld the 6" pipe to the box
2. weld the 6" pipe to the re-pad
3. weld the 4" pipe to the box and re-pad
4. put it all in place and weld it to the frame

This process would allow you to back weld the 6" pipe. If you wanted to be able to back weld the 4" pipe instead all you would have to do is put that one in first. I couldn't think of a process to et both of hem back welded.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

is this workable? sorry its so crude. and yes, the extra 1/4'' wall pipe is used above the frame and plated on both sides with 3/16" steel.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

We may have to start paying consultation fees soon!!!:lol:

Re: Pipe Notch
 

I think (yes, I know it's dangerous) that if you were going to do a notch that big you would be better off just doing a step notch.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

the pipe was 6" od. i wasnt too concerned with the bed floor as mine is currently a sheet of plywood. i was thinking of raising it about 2" to clear the diff. when aired out anyway. what kind of steel do you recomend be welded to the top of the frame? i was only asking about the remainder of the pipe because i already had it and hate wasted steel.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

x2.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

The issue w/mine will be there's not much room to plate the sides of the frame between the c-notch, Panhard bar c.member, & shock c.member. I'm trying to come up w/something that can be welded to the top of the frame rail & add strength.

Solid bar,thicker c-channel, what do you guys think?

Re: Pipe Notch
 

thanks for the work Lakeroadster. i notched the frame lastnight and installed the 6" pipe notch. i'm definitely gonna add a piece of heavy wall 2x4 steel to the top of my frame.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

You've got mail.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

It's a frame on a quasi chassis table/jig. I suck @ overhead stuff but flipping the frame is very do-able ;) . To make sure we're on the same page, what height did you establish on the truss?

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I can't even begin to tell you how interesting this whole discussion has been. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. :metal:

Re: Pipe Notch
 

Dang..... I'm going to owe you BIG TIME for such professional advisement :lol: .

Here's what I'm thinking.... Looking @ the contours of the frame, simply attaching a generic piece of steel 'tube' to the top of the rail will require considerable chopping of the material & will look like an after-thought (would work great on a nice straight frame though).

In keeping w/the concept, I still have the extra frame that I originally intended to use for this build (but the frame was bent). I'm thinking I'll cut that proposed area from the extra frame & weld it to the compromised section of this frame adding an additional ~3" of height in that area & add the solid .500" piece @ the rear portion of the notch.

I'll add three 90° 'L' shaped pieces of angle under the 'new' section that will tie the top of the current frame to the side & top of the new section. I'll space the three brackets equally (one @ each end & one in the middle). The end pieces will be where I'll start the 45° transitions that will tie the old & new @ the ends of the 'truss' & I'll box the back side similar to what I did for the current c-notched area.

This should leave the frame visually consistent (like it was planned all along ;) ) while reinforcing the area I didn't think through before commencement of fabrication.

Re: Pipe Notch
 

I might have not been clear enough in my description. The angle pieces would be underneath the outer structure simply to assist tying the 2 sections together; the 'ends' of the truss would be 45° angled from new to old frame sections.