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Re: pulling my hair out. Front bumpstops!
I've got a new style bumpstop in the mail, bolt in.
when the bs falls out/gets ripped in 2 it has more body roll and you can hear and feel metal on metal around corners and bumps... I've been reading the thread "make it handle" that was a biiiig mistake. Bye bye money. right now I've taken out the pass side bumpstop also so at least it's eually sloppy both directions. |
Re: pulling my hair out. Front bumpstops!
anybody else find it odd that the drivers side has gone through 5-7 bumpstops and the pass side worked the 1st time? Kinda makes me think my setup wasn't quite as half assed as some suggest. Could be the result of a leaky ps box? Poor people have poor ways :)
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Re: pulling my hair out. Front bumpstops!
:lol:
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Re: pulling my hair out. Front bumpstops!
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Re: pulling my hair out. Front bumpstops!
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Re: pulling my hair out. Front bumpstops!
The purpose of a bump stop is to stop the metal suspension parts from crashing into the frame or each other when the suspension has travelled to its limit.
Your first post says its in the bump stops all the time: "It does touch the bumpstops at ride height." Your suspension is now the bump stop, which is completely wrong. You should be asking why they don't fall out after a block down the road. Undo the the mods you've done, or get a designed drop. I'd guess the thing is beating itself to death as you go down the road... |
Re: pulling my hair out. Front bumpstops!
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My 74 had (has) a similar issue as brad_man_72. The drop was done w/3" Bell Tech spindles & a coil cut from the original V8 springs. The amount of drop is about 6" in the front. You could not slip your pinky between the tip of the OE bumpstop & the bottom of the factory x-member. The options to stay off of the bumpstops are to trim them down or use shorter ones, raise the truck, or modify the mounting points of things to retain the same drop amount while increasing the amount of travel (Dropmember, frame-Z, x-member notching). I tried the shorter bumpstop idea but that only 'moved' the contact point from the bumpstop/x-member to the top of the tire/fenderwell. You can retain control of the truck w/the bumpstop hitting the x-member; not so much w/the tires 'biting' the tops of the fenderwells. Remove the bumpstops alltogether? The lower a-arms would be digging-in/dragging on moderate/agressive dips in the roadway. With so little gap between the b-stop & x-member on my set-up, it actually road fine on 'maintained' roadways. On roads that were not up to snuff? You definitely slowed your pace & had a pucker-factor. The alternative was to start cutting the frame to raise the suspension mounting points because the drop amount is/was 'spot-on'. |
Re: pulling my hair out. Front bumpstops!
real mini coopers, one of the most fun best handling cars ever, just used a bumpstop for a spring. (pass side works great as did the originals for quite some time)
I weigh 155. new bumpstops are poly not rubber. So they aren't deterorating like the originals. bolt in bumpstops are here... And now my trans won't go into 1st and sometimes won't go into 4th. 4th trans in 2 years, you'd think for $1300 they'd last a little longer than my piss poor bumpstop suspension.....or a set of tires... Apparently it doesn't always pay, to pay. |
Re: pulling my hair out. Front bumpstops!
droppd the truck off at the trans shop and my 2 year old in tank fuel pump burned up before they could take it for a test drive. Then they informed me that they wouldn't warantee a 2 month old transmission..
as you can clearly see new front suspension is far from a priority. |
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