Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter (Post 5939614)

I just cut one this week. 14 inches out of the center and 5 inches off the back. I've done a fair number of frame splices and have always done it the straight way, full penetration welds, and a fish plate on the inside with small fish plates on the bottom webs of the framerails. There's a lot of people on here who will disagree with my methods, but a large percentage of them have never cut a frame in their life and just repeat what they've read on the internet, so take their advice with that in mind. I learned to do it this way from an old truck mechanic as we built dump trucks.

I fit them with about a 1/16 gap between the beveled edges, tack and measure to verify that you have it all straight and aligned, then weld it up. After adding the doubler plates to the inside, I plug weld through whatever holes happen to be there on the outside of the rails also. You can cut your fish plates out of the sections of rails you removed. Most of the time I stick weld them rather than use my MIG. That's just a personal preference though. Whatever you're most comfortable with.



Don't get too wrapped up in all the hysteria. It's not gonna break and send your careening into a bus full of nuns on their way to the orphanage, with a trailer full of puppies behind them. Worst case, you would see some cracking. Keep in mind, the bed adds a bit of a truss factor too since it's bolted in front of and behind your splices.

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter (Post 5939614)

I just cut one this week. 14 inches out of the center and 5 inches off the back. I've done a fair number of frame splices and have always done it the straight way, full penetration welds, and a fish plate on the inside with small fish plates on the bottom webs of the framerails. There's a lot of people on here who will disagree with my methods, but a large percentage of them have never cut a frame in their life and just repeat what they've read on the internet, so take their advice with that in mind. I learned to do it this way from an old truck mechanic as we built dump trucks.

I fit them with about a 1/16 gap between the beveled edges, tack and measure to verify that you have it all straight and aligned, then weld it up. After adding the doubler plates to the inside, I plug weld through whatever holes happen to be there on the outside of the rails also. You can cut your fish plates out of the sections of rails you removed. Most of the time I stick weld them rather than use my MIG. That's just a personal preference though. Whatever you're most comfortable with.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...d30ca4e14f.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...18fd783390.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...E590240FB8.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...E61F6AFACA.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...EAB81CA9C8.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...EBE9B0AA98.jpg

Don't get too wrapped up in all the hysteria. It's not gonna break and send your careening into a bus full of nuns on their way to the orphanage, with a trailer full of puppies behind them. Worst case, you would see some cracking. Keep in mind, the bed adds a bit of a truss factor too since it's bolted in front of and behind your splices.

Originally Posted by jitteryguy (Post 5941418)

your's look's good, what's your opinion on grind'n the weld's down on the out side ?

Originally Posted by meatwagon83 (Post 5941316)

same thing i have, got it from my grandpa, he had it for as long as i can remember, btw you can still get them $300 at lowes and they are exactly the same, and im the same if the metal has any wieght to it i prefer to stick it rather than use the mig, i guess it sdue to how i learned to weld(think industrial contruction)

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter (Post 5939656)

Easiest is an opinion. I can shorten a chassis much quicker than going to all the swapping hassle. Plus your frame VIN will still match your can VIN.
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by StarDust (Post 7584915)

saw this a while back and its straight from GM so i guess this is the real legit way? and imo having a sleeve seems a lot stronger than a zig zag weld with a fish eye plate. I am no expert though
http://i.imgur.com/LnRO0GRl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zMcyxcal.jpg

Originally Posted by jjzepplin (Post 7585126)

Here in FL they don't check the frame VIN. And as long as the frame is not stolen - Why would it even matter?

Originally Posted by daddyjeep (Post 7587388)

I'm a little late to the party here, but I will add my opinions and experience as well. I was sold on the "Z" cut while researching mine and at the last minute decided to do a simpler 45 degree cut. I read somewhere a post from a guy that worked for a company that built wreckers. He stated that the "Z" cut gave them the most problems with longevity. He had two frames come back with cracks coming off of the corners of the "Z". Not real big problems, but problems none the less. The 45 degree cut was a middle ground between the straight cut and the "Z". It gives you a little more weld surface. Feel free to check out my build. I documented my steps pretty well.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX (Post 7587905)

My guess is those Z cuts that came back were not drilled at the corners. There plenty of opinions on what is best, but my experience has taught me that surface area is important. The straight cut or 45 angle might be just fine, but I would sleep better know my frame had a Z cut.