You would have tunnel clearence concerns if you did not use the lowered motor mount stands. By raising the crossmember up on the frame, you raise the motor, and transmission too. The lowered stands should solve that problem.

They way Chris does it prevents these concerns. I am curious about what happens with the upper A-arms mounting brackets though?

OK....we've got the two ways mushed together on the thread....that's what's messing me up. LOL.

Yeah, you have to follow along pretty close, cause they get OT pretty quick. If I get lost, Phantom, Scoti, or Capt. usually brings me up to speed...

LOL, OK

N2TRUX what is confusing you on the upper a arms?? They mount pretty much in the same location only they come up with the crossmember creating more drop.

Not anymore/yet. I am working on it though. I can mock it in a frame and take a pic if you want though.

If it was that way, you would would be correct. Since you have to cut the motor mounts down, you realize that the top of the crossmember moved up, right, I don't know if it would cause balancer issues, but on my BBC it would DEFINITELY cause oilpan clearance issues, so I assumed the Balancer would be mighty close to the rack also. If I mounted a rack on mine, I would definitlely think I would have issues at only 1.5"

On either one Ken, nothing happens. It just moves up X number of inches on either mod. Basically if you look at your stock setup, you can add X" to check for clearance issues with the upper control arm.

Think of this mod this way. You have the upper/lower control arm on each side connected in the center. You lop both side off, eliminating the center and move them up X". Then you weld whatever you want back in there to add structure back. They both do the same thing, only different.

Sorry for the confusion loweredd

Question? Does this "kit" correct the off-center wheel problem caused by lowering the front end so far?

http://www.jayspot.com/images/temp/KPI-2.jpg

http://www.jayspot.com/images/temp/KPI-1.jpg

NO. The rear moves because it is connected to trailing arms and can only move in an arc. Lowering moves it further back, lifting moves it more forward.

On the front, you shouldn't have any movement that it THAT noticeable. The location of the crossmember does not change, so the wheel center does not change. You can move it forward X" to center it back in the wheel well, but you will probably have to notch the current bolt holes in the frame.

With the way these front suspensions are designed, as the truck is lowered the wheels will move backwards. I was just curious if the Turner tubular a-arms took this in to account. I think it's very noticable. Yes, the rear will move forward for the same reason..... it's traveling on an arc. I fixed the front of mine and think it looks much better. I basically moved the lower ball joint and the whole upper a-arm/mounting bracket forward about 1.5".

http://www.jayspot.com/images/truck/.../xmember45.JPG

http://www.jayspot.com/images/truck/.../xmember47.JPG

slammed i plan on doing something about this also, for the rear i have a 4 link so its no problem to adjust wheelbase, im curious about the front though, my main concern is the top ball joint angles, i saw on your site you cut the top arms but there wasnt much detail about it, ill see you saturday and maybe we can throw some ideas around about a crossmember and a arm set up, later.

lost wages
You can weld a plate on the frame where the crossmember bolts to and redrill where you want it to go if you only want to move it a little. Otherwise, just drill out the holes or elongate them.

ya lost me capn', are you talking bout moving the entire crossmember forward? wouldnt it hit some of the steering peices? motor mounts would need redone, other things? maybe i didnt follow you. Im more interested in relieving some of the ball joint angle without messing up the geometry the factory worked to create.any ideas on that?

Hey Fastbagged68 where did you get those controls arms. Will the clear my steering shaft, since Idid my bodydrop I've got a big notch in my upper control arm now.

Balancer clearance should not be an issue for the crossmember mod. I find I you go alittle lower 13/4 on my blazer you have too modify your steering a bit. A rack woud solve this.

I got my control arms Bill Turner Enterprises. To fix the column issue Bill turner says to use joints and to push your colmn down a little bit. Drill out the set screw that hold it in place under the dash and push out out the firewall. Hope that made some what sense. I plan on running an Ididit steering column and will cut it up to work for my set up.

Has Bill got lowers too. I want one that I can just mount the bag too no cups

Ya Bill makes lowers to that you don't need to use cups. Only thing is they mount inside the crossmember. Look at the post under crossmember drop. You will see it all there.

Keep this to the top. I have been reading all of the threads, and is very interesting. As far as I can tell, with the way the Capt'n did the x-member drop, I see no cons. As far as the Turners' drop, I think there are too many things to change for the same effect. No offense to anyone. I have my x-member out, and trying to decide which way to go. Also, I agree with Slammed67 about the wheels not being centered...looks "ghetto", and courious about what you did to the upper a-arm. You didnt get into any detail about it. And as far as going with the rack-n-pinion set up, that mod is just b*tchn'. Just wondering how hard it would be to use with a big block if I went with the manual rack? I know Phantom is in progress with his....just courious.

Just curious......... what is the advantage of the rack and pinion steering set up? I know it looks "cooler" but is that it? I know it can't make these trucks easier to steer because the stock set up already requires almost no effort.

Chevy Wrench: I moved the entire upper a-arm (and mounting bracket) forward to match the relocated lower ball joint. One thing I wish I had done (and plan to do) is more the upper a-arm brackets out about 1/4" to give me more camber adjustment. I'm currently almost out of shim space and still have too much negative camber. My plan is to more the bracket out 1/4" and just place a 1/4" metal plate between it and the frame. That should be enough to get the camber where it should be. I also basically "bent" the upper a-arm ends down to correct the ball joint angle. I made a couple cuts, bent the end down, and re-welded them. I'll try to find some "before" pics of the a-arms.

Let me know when you find those pics Slammed. Thanks.