Re: 66 k20
 

The front hubs? They aren't lockouts.

Re: 66 k20
 

That would explain why they looked different in the picture. Don't think I've ever seen one without some kind of locking hubs, makes your truck even cooler, great find.

Re: 66 k20
 

As I understand it, that's actually the way they came from the factory. Lock outs were an option, added on by the owner.

Re: 66 k20
 

I have never seen 60 -66 trucks without lockout hubs....very interested to know if that is factory. I see on my build sheet that my Dana hubs were an option (F76) so I suppose it's possible to order without the lockouts. Either way nice truck.

Re: 66 k20
 

Yes, locking hubs were an option. The truck I got my front axle off did not come from the factory with lockouts. While it did not have a build sheet, I could tell because it has aftermarket hubs ( the Cutlas brand I referred to earlier, and have never seen another set of), but also there was no Spicer instruction sticker by the rearview mirror, just the transfer case shift pattern sticker. I'm thinking this is how your truck must be. Probably a lot of government and utility trucks (like mine) did not come with hubs, but they were added later when the trucks were sold to the public. As I understand it the only hubs offered by the factory were Spicer brand, so Warns and others were added later.
Anybody out there able to back this theory up or have other information?
Next time you post pictures ( and we all want to see more) can you take some of your non-locking hubs? Like I said I have never seen any except in the factory book
Thanks, Tom

Re: 66 k20
 

Certainly...

Re: 66 k20
 

Thanks for the pictures. Wow, those tires and split rims look even scarier than the ones that were on my truck when I pulled it from the barn.
BTW- Don't know if you have ever dealt with this era 3/4 ton 4x4, but front brake parts very hard to find.Took me a year to find everything needed. Happy to share sources, as would hate to see that cool original axle turned into a boat anchor for lack of some parts.
Good luck with the project, glad it found a good home.
Tom

Re: 66 k20
 

I’ve got no intention of scrapping the front axle. I’ve done a little digging into brake parts as I’m sure the wheel cylinders are going to be junk. Ive found some stuff in the older NAPA catalogs that are available online but ill certainly keep you in mind for sources when I get to that point and I appreciate your help. I have found a place that has seals and bearings for both the 44f and the Rockwell I’d be happy to share that if you could use it.

When I was taking those pics I noticed the date code on the tires was 1979. :D

Re: 66 k20
 

Warn locking hubs were offered in the Chevrolet Silver Book that was supplied to every dealer. The Silver Book came out each year with listed vendors of many attachments from light trucks to heavy duty.

If you look in my literature link , there's information and part numbers for the Rockwell T-221 as well as a 1963 Silver Book.

Re: 66 k20
 

Biggest problem I had was finding front drums. Hopefully yours are OK, would suggest miking them now to see. Most sources don't list them anymore, and the ones that do will try to sell you 1/2 ton or 2WD, neither of which will work. Rears are still out there but also won't work in front. Fortunately there are some options, let me know if you need help.
I've had great luck with Torque King for the 44f and 221 stuff, is that who you use? If not please share.
Tom

Re: 66 k20
 

Yes, Torque King is who I've got bookmarked also.

Re: 66 k20
 

Carb rebuilt.
Bumper mounted fuel tank installed.
Radiator filled and hooked up.
Junkyard HEI and wires and new plugs installed

She lives!

Re: 66 k20
 

Very nice progress! Great to see it moving.

Sure you know, to make sure the T221 is at proper fluid level, very important.

Les

Re: 66 k20
 

A few updates:

A truck bed trailer popped up on marketplace a couple weekends ago, so I grabbed it and harvested the bed. Not an exact match, but getting closer. Who says you can't change a bed by yourself?

Re: 66 k20
 

Did my best to clean out the gas tank, even tried some muratic acid which would have probably worked if I would have had enough to fill the tank. However at $9 a gallon x 14 gal or so, it's not much more to buy a new tank. So I gave up and am running 3 fuel filters. Also got front lights working again, cleaned the contacts on the dimmer switch and replaced the connector from my parts pile. Hit the turn signal housing with some sandpaper and viola I have a ground again. Little things, but one more step towards getting it road worthy.

Re: 66 k20
 

Got my fleabay aluminum radiator installed. Not a perfect fit, but was able to massage it enough to make it work. For $130 delivered I'm not complaining:

Re: 66 k20
 

Next, brakes. What a nightmare. I knew going in that some of the stuff would be hard to find. I did not know how hard. Hoses do not exist anymore. This is the solution myself and my napa guy could come up with:

Re: 66 k20
 

This was after I had already put everything together using the new wheel cylinders. As it turns out a hose connector will not fit between the knuckle and backing plate. The new wheel cylinders are 7/16-20, made to accept a male hose end. The old ones were 3/8-24 with a piece of hard line bent up to connect to the hose. I thought I could get rid of that and just use the hose, but no such luck. So out came the new wheel cylinders, the brake hone chucked in my drill and I cleaned up the old housings and put the bleeder screws and guts from the new ones in.

Re: 66 k20
 

Bearings repacked, hub and spindle cleaned up and new to me lock outs I picked up off the forum installed:

Re: 66 k20
 

Out of 6 or 7 steel fittings I was able to get 1 loose without breaking. The hard line to the rear out of the tee on the right side. So I picked up a roll of 1/4" tubing, some nuts and a double flare tool. Just going to replace it all.

Re: 66 k20
 

Really like your truck! Making great progress too. Those warn hubs look perfect! Have you got the new bed on yet? Noticed you just put on a new mc, so this question is coming a little late... But while your tube bending tools are still out and handy, have you considered installing a dual reservoir mc? It's a safety improvement mandated in 67, and a 67 mc (froma C10 or full size chev car, etc) bolts right up and looks right at home. This little upgrade would probably only be an additional $30-40 from where you are now. The mc swap is simple, and as for lines, you just have to bend and run the rear mc res brake line directly to the rear line (install a junction to connect it to the rear line and plug the T block where the rear line was connected). It isolates the front and rear systems in case a line fails so you will always have at least front or rear brakes if the other fails. No distribution block or prop valve is required. Sorry didn't mention this before you installed the single res mc - and completely understand if you want to stick with the new single res mc :) Anyway, here's a link to a write up if you're interested. Love your truck - and, again, sorry to mention this after you just installed the single res mc, but just throwing it out there for consideration. Back in 66, everyone was driving the highways with single res mc's anyway. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=487384

Re: 66 k20
 

any pics of the front stock brake lines?

Re: 66 k20
 

A few posts up is a pic of the new bed on it.

Yes I have considered the dual mc setup, and I have one for that sitting under the workbench. And after a day of fighting the banjo bolt tee at the left front and trying to bend a line around the frame rail from the mc to go to into it, doing that one more time would have me kicking or throwing something. :D. I will do that at some point, I really had not planned on replacing all this steel line right now but there's no way around it. I know it's not much more complex but I want to make sure what I've done so far works and doesn't leak before I add something else into the mix. I'm not 100% confident in my booster either so if that has to come back off then I will do the dual mc at that time.

Re: 66 k20
 

This is the stock hose that is made of unobtainium now. The frame end is the same as replacements but the wheel end is impossible to find. It has a slot to be secured with a clip into the bracket on the knuckle and has female 3/8-24 threads.

Re: 66 k20
 

On to rear brakes.