Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Very nice build you have going on there. Can't wait to see the rest.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Now do the passenger side the same way so you can change you taillights easier! :lol:

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Looks great

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Nice Mod. looking good Bruce!

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Very nice build, you're attention to detail is outstanding. With that said I bet this thing will turn out very nice. Keep it up, can't wait to see more.;)

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Frenched and functional!

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

More room to work on the truck

Livrat (a forum member) came over this weekend and pick up the old eng and trans it’s a good thing the weather was better some what.

It sure is nice being able to find another forum member that lives close that can use the parts that I’m not going to be using instead of just taking them to the scrap yard. Thanks to the forums ability to post items and get in contact with others I definitely have more room to continue this project.

Attachment 418474

Just finished putting together the “how to” Speedometer Calibration with a 700R4 Trans” and it’s posted in the FAQ section of the forum http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=322481

I’m from the old school of hot Roding and liked to do as much of the work on my trucks as possible (maintaining, rebuilding, and modifications) and find “how to’s” a benefit to me in the past to accomplish this.

I posted a how to “V Belt Pulley Alignment 101” http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=318240 a while ago and have received no feed back Pro or Con or that it was of any benefit to any one. Not wanting to waste forum space and post things that no ones interested in or might fall into the category that every one knows that. I will refrain from posting any more “how to’s” not wanting to waste forum space or other member’s time.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

I for one use the FAQ section regularly and have just gotten into the build. I'm sure I'll be running to the laptop during work on the 70 to get answers to things I can't figure out by the manuals. I think many use the FAQ but never think to post comments. I for one just really started putting positive feedback on posts I found helpful. Plus, you can only add one to a member at a time so that limits how much people can post positive reps as well.

I for one am all for as many FAQ's and "How to" posts as you can come up with. If you feel it's too much time I COMPLETELY understand that, but if you're just worried you're wasting your time because no one is using it, I'd tell you you're mistaken there. We do use it, just don't always show the appreciation we should :chevy:

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Brother, post them FAQs for all to use. There are plenty of people on here who waste ludicrous bandwidth by posting the same photo over and over again as an attachment for different threads. Your contribution is not a waste. No way, no how. I appreciate your well written and composed posts.

By the way, to all who are reading, if you have a photo that you frequently post on different threads, host the photo at photobucket and link to it each time. That way this board doesn't have to store the same picture over and over again for the different threads.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Three days in the shop and not a lot to show for it.
Or should I say how I drilled a round/elongated hole in a curved surface.

Wanting to stay with my concept of putting the stock backup lights in the bumper I picked up some 4 inch exhaust pipe from NAPA and a 4 inch hole saw. Then built a wood jig to hold the bumper square in my drill press and drilled the two holes in the bumper.

Attachment 420297

Welded up one bucket for the backup light and then welded it into the bumper keeping it square to how the bumper will sit. Still have to do the LH side of the bumper. Will not show you the back side of the bumper the weld is not very pretty but its functional, it’s one of those I’m not very proud of the weld but will live with it and no one will see it unless they crawl under the truck or I run over them HA HA.

After I weld in the other light and clean up all those nasty little burs on the back edge of the bumper (you know the ones that snag/cut your sponge or hand when washing the truck) the front and back bumper plus bolts will be off to be stripped and powder coated black.

Attachment 420298

I did get a chance to test fit a swing up license plate holder from Summit (part #SUM-G301000 Flip-up License Plate Mount). It didn’t fit very well to my satisfaction; it had to sit low, hitting the aft edge of the bumper, and spring showing below the bumper. I like the concept of hiding the trailer hitch and when using the hitch the license is visible. So there will be a lot of modifications that I will need to make to it to function and look the way I want it to.

Attachment 420299

Trying to keep up with my self imposed goal of wanting to post something on this build once a week or two to keep you up to date and keep the project rolling along. Hope my slow pace at doing things will keep your interest. Now I need to recoup a few days before getting back at it. Have a nice day and a better one tomorrow.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

As always, nice work...

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

lookin good

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

What's that they say..."He's got mad skills!"

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Subscribed... Nice work!

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Killer thread...I dig your work OG

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Good job! Keep it up!

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

You have some good ideas, and the skills to pull them off. Good Job!:c2:

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

You have given me alot of ideas on my project. Nice work.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

All the little things that take time and effort to do and others will not no about or think of after the project build is complete but definitely make every thing work right and last for years to come.

I picked up some 36-4407 LMC Clear Parking Light Lenses with amber bulbs to rebuild the parking lights. The mounting nut plates for mounting the light assembly where broken replaced them with clip on nut plates. Sandblasted and painted the housing black to fit in with the black powder coated bumper. The stock shoulder screw (see insert pic of screw) would not hold the lens tight to the frame seal replaced them with #8-32 1-1/2 long stainless steel screws and locking nuts to prevent them from backing out.

You will notice an extra wire installed on the back of the light assembly, it’s a grounding wire I installed. With all the powder coating and painting of parts the grounding of electrical parts can be compromised so I’ve found throughout the years that adding a ground wire keeps everything working good for years to come. Also on grounds I install that are exposed to the weather I seal them with Permatex 2 form a gasket sealant to prevent corrosion and failure. The sealant stays sticky for days and is like a tar substance preventing water and air corroding the connection. Note, would not recommend using a silicon/RTV type sealant to seal grounds the sealant has a small amount of acid base that has shown ground failure over time in the aircraft industry.

Attachment 423939

When I pulled the heater housing the heater core was leaking, the diverter valve was packed with pine needles and debris (probably the cause of the broken lever in the heater control that I replaced) and the fan motor did not sound very good when running.

Parts used in rebuild
32-2525 LMC Heater Core
36-0565 LMC Heater Seal Kit W/O AC
32-2420 LMC Blower Motor
32-2090 LMC Heater Fan
3M 1/4 inch glass Ribbon Sealer (see insert pic of bulk seal)

After disassembly and cleaning painted the housing with VHT Satin Black Epoxy Paint.
Decided to use the glass ribbon sealer instead of the factory clay like seal, it sits in the grove in the housing and holds the rubber seal in place good. Also used the ribbon seal to seal around the heater core hose connections. Now it can be set in storage ready for installation in the future.

Attachment 423940

Mounted the TCI transmission cooler and fabricated some aluminum tubing on the 32-2932 LMC Radiator 3 Row Cooler. Will have to cut two notches in the radiator support to clear the tubing.

Attachment 423941

I haven’t finished the taillight concept at this time because I’m waiting for my friends to have some free time to help with the welding. I’m not the best at welding thin metal and like to use a copper backing plate to prevent burn thru and that requires a third hand I don’t have at this time. But I’ve been keeping myself busy with other things that need to be done. Will keep you updated as the taillight concept progress, hopefully in the next post.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

As usual, looks good...

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

I really like the details on your build, it's amazing.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Thanks for posting the detailed pictures and listing all the part numbers and where you got them -- this is great information for those of us still figuring out what to do!

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

I have to admit that I don't check this forum as often as i should.I however will be doing so in the future.You build thread has served to help me get my momentum back and I appreciate that.As for your spelling,whatever you're doing has worked.I can read and understand all of it.I haven't been to check your work in the FAQ's but can already tell it is a positive contribution.
Your truck has some great ideas and outstanding execution so don't stop with what you have already contributed.Some of the minor things you have shown are things others never think of until they get in the middle of a build.Better planning always results in a better outcome(except militarily).
I think you are building one heck of a nice mild custom styled truck with lots of attention to detail and great worksmanship.Those who know will just know and those who don't will not notice.Keep up the great work.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Thanks to all for the positive and encouraging posts it’s definitely appreciated by me and helps keeping the build progressing even at my slow pace. I also find it enjoyable that some will find inspiration or ideas for their own build, I must be doing something right. I wish I had more time to view the other build threads on this forum, from what I’ve seen there are plenty of good build’s going on with some very talented people performing the builds.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly or from another Clint Eastwood film A man’s got to know his limitations.

Sometimes it seems I spend more time on the road between places to find parts and services that I need accomplished than working on the truck. (Na it just must be me)

I apologize for the pour pictures of the bumpers they really look pretty good. After sandblasting and powder coating I installed the swing up license plate (would not recommend the swing up license plate to any one that just wants a bolt on installation. It took me two days of re-engineering and modifications to get it to work) Decided to try some LED bulbs in the backup lights, I don’t know a lot about the LED bulbs except that the ones in my flash light are pretty bright, if they don’t perform good Ill just change back to the stock bulbs. I did find some stainless steel license plate frames that are powder coated black by Camisasca and with the thin design look and works well. Now I can say that I have a compete rebuild bumper to bumper less a few miner parts. HA HA

Attachment 429147

The tailgate on the truck had definitely been worked hard in the past and fell in to my category as bad and needing more work than I wanted to put into it. So I picked one up from MAR-K part number 102840 Tailgate “CHEVROLET” Script No Chain Latch. This will be my next area of work to install the Tailgate Link Straps and the Bear Claw Latches. It will definitely give the people in my rear view mirror a nice truck rear end to look at.

Finished welding in the stop light buckets in the fenders and spent half a day removing the tar undercoating in one of the fenders. Was talking to my sandblaster and it was recommended to remove the undercoating I could use a propane torch and a putty knife to remove the majority of it and save on the stripping cost (it worked pretty good not a lot of heat but defiantly a job you want to do outside with the smell and fumes).

I’m going to be installing a side mounted spar tire and wanting the cutout in the fender to look a little better than the lapped over spot welded panel. So I welded the complete seam, it’s kind of ugly but with some bondo with fiber it should blend in with a slight rounded look, hopefully better than the spot welded panel.

Since the truck will be used for hauling things it’s always nice to have places to tie things down to and having used the Track & Tie Down Anchors in the Air Force it was only fitting to install some in my truck. Obtained the Track & Tie Down Anchor Kit and 4 Ring Kit from Discount Ramps.COM. I will be installing the Tracks halfway up the bed sides and the individual mounts in the corners near the top of the bed. I’m lucky to have a good place close to get my fasteners from (Tacoma Screw Products, Inc.) and they usually have just what I need. The tracks will be mounted with Stainless Steel Allen Head Counter Sunk M6 x 20MM fasteners (note American standard fasteners will not sit flat enough in the counter sink for ring to be located over them)

Attachment 429148

When I was out and about I think that I’ve found a body and paint shop that will work with me where they will take the individual sandblasted panels and take them from miner body work to finished paint and then I will assemble the peaces. So in the next one to two months I expect to hand over all the bed panels to them and see how it works out for just the bed before starting them on the cab and front end. Personally I would like to do the body work and paint myself but with lacking the space and equipment I’ve decided to turn it over to a professional that has all equipment and space. The color has been finalized 505 GM green with black along the bottom just the same as in the starting pictures. Anybody having any ideas or recommendation for the interior color with the grey seats would be appreciated.

With the tight confines of my work shop I tripped over some stuff and fell the other day, no broken bones but some very pretty purple and soar bruises, so I will be taking a week off from working on the truck for recovery (age doesn’t work in your benefit in regards to recovery). Everybody stay safe out there in their small shops for things will jump out and get in your way.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Looks excellent. Love all the hidden and hindging tricks with the lights and plates.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Great work!

Sorry to hear about the fall....Glad it wasn't worse...Hope you're back up and out in the shop soon providing more great pictures and writeups. ;)

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Great looking build and all the best on a speedy recovery!

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

The concept evolves, where function and aesthetics work out a compromise.

With using the small bear claw latches to hold the tailgate closed I decided they needed to be covered so that the majority of the latch just doesn’t hang out on the side visible to all. Went through a number of concept thoughts of how to accomplish this and think I found one that works for me (let me know what you think)

I took a lot of pictures as I progressed thru this modification and rather than have a wall of text to describe all the pictures I decided to incorporate some of the text into the pictures. Not that this is a “How To” just wanted to share my thoughts and work that went into this modification and a little self pride in this accomplishment HA HA.

What I started with and working in the concept with mockup’s

Attachment 433654

I saw on another web site about building up a weld on the edge of the metal and thought I could use this idea. I’ve never done this before and with my less than steady hand decided to use a wood template my neighbor made for me as a guide.

Fabricating the end plate’s

Attachment 433655

Welding, grinding, drilling and cutting (O-MY)

Attachment 433656

More welding and finish work is required but I think you can see how the finished area will look

Attachment 433657

My next area of work is welding up the stake pockets, finishing up the welding on the end covers and approximately 18 other holes in each of the bed top surfaces and sides (I think this truck has had more than one cover installed on it over time with all the drilled mounting holes)

Another couple of weeks have been written into the books and the progress is moving on no mater how slowly

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Excellent work man, diggin' the details

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Awesome writeup...If I ever get a stepside, I will definitely be doing this...

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Very Nice!!

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

nice build
subscribed

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Good show!!!!

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

very good work. Keep at it.....

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Making a silk purse out of a sow’s ear, OK a imitation leather hand bag then.

It’s a good thing that I’m building a work truck with some personal custom touches and not a showroom custom. I can live with some minor flaws that will exist after I’m finished or I would just pick up some new bed side panels from MAR-K. All the dents and less than strait inside panels will be straitened generally but not perfect and a bed liner material will be used.

With all the welding that I’m doing lately and just picked up a new tool to help me with the tasks, (some would call it a crutch) thought some would like to see how I’m using it.(it’s defiantly a keeper in my tool box). Magnetic Hole Plug Welding Tool

I’ve seen some good welders that could weld up the holes without a backup plate and have a perfect small rosette weld with good weld penetration minimal grinding and finish work required. To them my hat is off and I’m really in aw of their abilities but before the good welders find fault with what I presenting it’s just my best attempt with my limited skills as a backyard mechanic and less than a good welder.

I use a product called Picklex 20, it’s a rust converter, helps with cleaning and welding and leaves a protective finish to prevent flash rust if the part is kept in a garage out of the weather for months. One drawback to the product is you can not use self etching primer over it and some of the epoxy primers are also self etching. But when I’m ready for paint all the panels will be sandblasted to remove the rest of the paint before epoxy priming and I think this should take care of that problem. I just scrub it on with a red scotch bright pad for about a minute and wipe area with a clean cloth, no rinsing required.

You can see in the picture below the welder that I use and the copper backup plate or copper tubing that I use. The only problem with using this copper backing is I need another hand to hold it in place.

Attachment 435278

Laid out the steps I accomplished in welding up the holes in the pictures below. It was kind of like being on a assembly line with all the holes to weld up in the side panels. 18 holes done and another 18 to go at last count but the others will wait till after the bed is disassembled. I prefer to weld down letting gravity work for me when possible.

Attachment 435279

Was out welding up the holes and guess who showed up, it was Santa claws he sure looks thinner, dressing in brown and driving a UPS truck (must be his off season outfit and look) more parts for the truck hooray.

It’s a custom intermediate fuel filler tube made out of 304 stainless steel. When I made the decision to use a blazer fuel tank for the truck build there was one problem with the installation that I wanted to address. The fuel tank has a 1-1/4 inch diameter inlet tube, the tube on the filler cap that will be used is 2 inch diameter and there is approximately 2 inch high area between the frame and bed to feed the line thru. So I wanted a reducer tube to couple the inlet and outlet together made out of stainless steel to minimize any rust problems (the hunt for some one to make this custom part was on).

Didn’t find anybody locally that was working in stainless steel tubing so onto searching the web and found Heartthrob Exhaust Accessories http://www.heartthrobexhaustinc.com After looking thru their catalog and abilities generated a drawing of what I was looking for and e-mailed them to see if they could do it and after some minor changes to the design to align with their manufacturing capabilities, they said they could (you can see the finalized drawing I sent them below). But there was a small problem about price, If I need it right away there would be a $200.00 tooling setup charge plus material but if I could wait a undetermined number of months until they would be making a production run of the stainless steel tubing in the size needed they could slip my custom tube into the line and there would not be any tooling setup charges. I went with the second option, knowing that I would not need this part for a number of months down the road and placed the order total cost to me $78.00 plus shipping (a good price for a custom stainless steel tube) you can see a picture of the filler tube below.

It’s always good to find a company that will work with you on custom parts without charging you an arm and a leg (and planning ahead for the parts definitely helped me). Thank you Heartthrob Exhaust Accessories the part is exactly what I wanted and the input on design and options for purchase is well appreciated.

For others that might be looking for a 6 inch long reducer tube from 1-1/4 inch OD to 2 inch OD in steel or stainless steel they have it in their catalog as one of their stock items.

Attachment 435280

You will definitely be seeing the installation of this custom fuel filler tube in future posts on this build.

Being a new be to this forum and still figuring things out. I just figured out what the little white boxes to the right on the index page for this thread mean and how they got there. Thanks to those for the vote on this build it’s appreciated by me.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Every time I see an update to this thread, I get excited, because I know I'm going to learn something or just see something really cool.

Keep it up, you are definately inspiring us!

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

It isn’t always wet and raining in Washington State, the sun came out the other day and I have pictures to prove it, hooray spring is just around the corner.

The bed is finally apart and more cleanup is in progress.

When I was 16 I spent about two months working in an undercoating shop assisting putting on this tar like undercoating (definitely not the job for me). I would never have thought that so many years later I would be working at removing the old and crusty stuff HA HA.

With a propane torch and a putty knife removed about 90% of it and then used a rag soaked in diesel fuel to remove most of the rest. About 99% removed should save me at the sandblasters (see picture below).

Attachment 437059

I’ve seen on many un-restored trucks with wood beds rust under and around the angle strip spot welded to the bed side and mine is no different. Will be removing this angle strip and replacing it with a stainless steel one bolted on. More spot welds to cut and holes to drill, what a joy (not).

Just a picture of the rear frame before I start working on it, nice to have a reference photo for when the parts will be reassembled and changes made.

Just noticed that the cross member on the frame just aft of the rear end is not at 90 deg to the frame. My frame is strait and from what I’ve seen of the frame drawings the factory installed it this way. Not that it will affect any thing just doesn’t make any sense to me as why they did it that way. Another question that probably will never be answered as to why, it’s just the way it is.

Attachment 437060

It’s nice not to be totally relying on my kerosene heater to stay warm when working on the truck, the weather should only be getting better.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Just finished my tax return, wish they would make it easier and simpler like a flat tax. Would definitely prefer working on the truck, o-well I’m getting a refund that will be used for more parts.

The cleanup and welding continue on the bed and think that there are enough pictures of this, will leave the rest of the cleanup and welding on the bed to your own imagination.

I’m converting the 72 short box step side truck to have the side mounted spare tire. And wanting new wheels for the truck anyway, bought 5 new ones (can’t forget the spare visible to everyone). This gives me the chance to make sure the new wheel will fit the spare tire mount and clear the side of the bed also made sure they would clear the stock disk brakes.

New parts
Qty 5 ARE-625873 American Racing, Outlaw II Wheels 15 in. x 8 in., 5 x 5 in. bolt circle, 3.75 in. backspace, -19.00mm offset
Qty 1 MCG-24538 McGard wheel locks (set of 5 per package)
Qty 5 MCG-64010 McGard lug nuts (set of 4 per package)
Qty 3 SUM-G1955 Summit chrome valve stems 7/16 in. hole size (set of 2 per package)

The spare tire mount will need to be modified, it was on a truck that had a 6 lug x 5.5 in. Dia. bolt pattern and it will be modified to a 5 lug x 5 in. Dia. Bolt pattern, all the clearances are good and need no modification. I created a template of the bolt patterns to see where the bolts will have to be located, that is the template on the mount in the picture.

When looking thru all the different wheels that I was considering for the truck and going to stay with the same truck stance and tire size (2-1/2 in. lower front end, 4 in. lower rear end, and P255/60R15 tires) I generated a picture in Photoshop to see what the new wheels would look like on the truck with the spare tire mount. (see picture below)

Attachment 438598

I generated a full size bolt pattern for the three bolt patterns used on 67 – 72 Chevy 2WD & 4WD trucks. The different years and pattern/lug nut sizes on the picture are from LMC catalog. Anyone wanting it can right click on the picture and save it to your computer, it might come in handy when out looking thru used wheels to check for fit. The only problem you might have with this picture is to make sure that your printer is set to print actual size not to shrink or expand to fit. To check that it printed correctly just measure the bolt diameters if they do not measure correctly you will need to set your printer to print actual size.

Attachment 438599

Was watching a Harry Potter movie as I generated this post, it sure would be nice to cast a spell and have the truck finished. Not being a wizard I’ll just have to do it the normal way, so I will head out tomorrow and continue working on it.

Re: It’s Just A Pickup
 

Wheels look good on the truck. I was looking at the same mod for my spare carrier, but went to a fleetside bed.