Re: Working Man's Burbon
Thanks!
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It looks as if the current batch of seals may have a different problem. The lengths looked fine on the ones I saw but they were laid out wrong. See my crude drawing to understand. It isn't a mirror image but something different with the thin side on wrong side and the angles backwards.
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The guys at Dan's Classic Chevrolet have been talking to Prescion and it seems that they were confused about how the seal actually fit in the frame. Prescion was checking to see if it was a bad batch or worse. At best it will be six months at best before the correct seals are available. Here are some more photos of my old one.
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OOOOh, whats the second gen in the background?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1462545831 |
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It's a customer car. It's a complete restoration that is just about finished. 1970? I think, but SS 350 car with black stripes. Not the best picture but if you want I can get some more if it hasn't been picked up.
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Oh, that's OK. I thought it was yours, I have a 73 so I like to know about other peoples cars
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I do have a 72 formula clone project that hasn't made much progress in a while. Nothing trick and at this time it's just a 350 car.
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I bought precision brand door weatherstrips for my burb and they were all too small and didn't fit the openings.
I got another set from them 4 months later but that didn't help when I needed them for a truck show we ended up driving 3 hours with no weatherstrips to. |
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Derek from Prescion your PM box is full and I am unable to respond.
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More window information. To remove the divider you must turn it 90* (photo) then lift it out. I made sure that it was on the outside of the glass to keep from damaging the window tint. The window channels that are readily available for the dividers between the fixed or the wing windows and the roll up windows is not factory correct, but seem to work ok. To install it you must scrape all of the old felt out of the channel (mine were so rotten it took less than five minutes) then the new felt piece folds into the channel. I am considering glueing my in just to be sure that it doesn't start to move. If you wanted a factory correct felt channel you can get the channel in longer lengths and cut it to size. (Restoration Supply or others) You will have to drill of the rivets that attach the lower mounting bracket and the painted trim channel (?) out, and then instal new rivets like you would when replacing the wing window rubber seal. See photos
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If you do decide to use the factory style felt channel you will have to cut the channel in such a way that you leave tab that can be bent in the correct direction and then drill a hole for the screw. The passenger side screw hole has to be sized so the screw will self tap. In addition the same end of the channel has to be pinched smaller so it fits in the upper part of the frame. So if your chrome beads on the dividers are wasted you can replace them with new one. Mine were usable and my tabs were in good shape so I didn't need replace them.
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It looks like you have the top roll up window seal installed. |
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Interesting I will have to look into this further. This is the product that came in the window kit I installed in the front doors. I am familiar with it as it is also used in my S10 doors. Do the felts you are talking about have the chrome beads too? Thanks.
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UPDATE: I have contacted by Prescion Rubber and they are working on new fixed quarter window seals. They have received the correct measurements from one of the members here and will send me a sample when they are ready. Can't wait! Thanks Rod. More to follow.
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The previous owner removed all the bump stops from the suspension. The rear was the easier of the pair, so I started there. I ordered the energy suspension black units 9-9109G for the rear. The factory bump stop is a pull through mount and the new ones are a bolt on style. I took a 3" x3" concrete bearing plate (from Depot) and cut 3/8" off of one edge and set it in the factory mount and bolted it down. Then lowered the burb and compared the measurements I made before I bolted the stops in. The drivers side was 1/2" higher and the other side was 1/4" higher. Not enough to to see but it will make me feel better.
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Its been a while since I posted but photos of me block sanding (for like weeks on end) are not very interesting. I am not a very effective block sander. I always seem to end up with more putty on the floor than I put on. But now the WMB has got professional help and things will go MUCH faster.:ennyd:
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I need to start block sanding the Panel Truck but I'm not looking forward to it. I'm not very good at it either. Unfortunately mine isn't going to get any professional help...:( Keep up the good work. LockDoc |
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Scored a front seat frame over the weekend. It was out of a 75 Blazer and it is supposed to be a Flexsteel aftermarket seat from back in the day. It certainly needs buffing out, but for $25 I can't go wrong. Looking like a Buddy Bucket type set up for the WMB.
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Things have progressed to the point that it was time to apply the new seam sealer. The first photo shows it prepared and taped off. We initially were going to use the self leveling (photo 2) variety for the front and sides and the heavy body for the rear, but decided that the gaps above the windshield may be to large and the sealant would most likely run inside and not fill the gaps. So we used the heavy bodied on all of it. With this much seam to fill we worked in pairs to apply the sealant. Even so it was hard to stay ahead of the cure time. It came out OK, but like caulking I get more on me and things that I don't want it on. We used wax and grease remover to clean up my mess and to help feather edge it. The front was a pain to try and get smooth due to all of the misalignment of the rail and the roof panel. There is almost no channel on one corner (photo 4). There have been 2 pickups through the shop and neither one of them had the issues that mine has. And the last picture shows the final result.
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30 minutes of wrenching has turned the WMB in to the Redondo Beach cruiser. Sanding the jams, oh my aching fingers! It looks like the third door and the lower gate are the only original doors on the Burban. The two fronts were originally light blue and the upper gate was black. The front jams have 4 different colors in them purple, silver, green, and dark gray. Fortunately all that paint has kept the rust color at bay.:lol:
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Stopped by the shop to measure my front seat and found this!:metal:
I'll have get those dimensions another day!! |
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Looking Good!
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Very good...will the final color be white?
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Thanks for the appreciative words. And it is going to get some green on the lower panels.
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Looks great.
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You are moving right along. Nice work!! |
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Thanks again everybody. It doesn't quite seem that it's moving right along. WANT TO DRIVE NOW!
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Boy I am so hoping they are going to be ready soon. Right now I only have one reusable seal. I could drive without one as long as it stays dry but the rains are coming. That being said I still have a lot of moves to make before the WMB is drivable. Like everyone says "Timing is everything". They got the jams and insides of the doors shot today but in my excitement I forgot to get pictures.:banghead: DDOH!
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If you're referring to my screen name, I only sort of have a Nothcback GTA, I have the factory hatch, but no numbers matching vehicle :lol: |
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We dropped the 51 off to get the fender repainted (garage boo boo). And got there just as the painter was leaving and ....YIKES! I just wish the photo would show the color properly. Well it's not easy being green.
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I am green with envy!:lol:
Seriously though, it looks great!! |
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Thanks. I feel the same about most of the trucks here.
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Out of the paint booth! Time to start bolting stuff on. Yeah baby!:metal:
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If you leave enough money under a pillow the glass fairy comes by. :lol: The down side of having glass is after this much time reaching in through the window frames to get stuff from the back it's frustrating to have to go all the way around to the back and open the hatch. :waah: And I'm still stuck on the second row windows as I still have no seals. I left a message at Precision Rubber but no word back yet. In the process of installing the dash pad I noticed the blower motor resistor just hanging in the heater by the wires. Most of the phenolic plate that held it in position was gone. One less thing to catch on fire. Not much info here as it is just lots of time making sure things fit right with good fasteners. Lots of anti-seize and time wiping anti-seize off my hands. So far the only surprise has been the front turn signal plug mismatch. Harness female connections are V style which is 67 only. And of course the grille and lights I got are 68. The other disappointing fact is that the bumpers are all tweaked. When it was purple I never noticed it but now it is very apparent. As this is to be a daily driver I think I need to step up the bumper protection. Maybe get OE painted ones double them up and plug weld them together for extra stiffness. Now days so many people don't care if they have to push your car around when they are trying to park. I've repainted the bumper on the girlfriend's Lexus several times because of these &%-&#%&%- people. Would painted bumpers be a bad idea? It seems to me to be a 4x4 thing.
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