Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

I had a 30 by 60 at one time. I think a 40 by 60 would be even better. :)

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

What did you ever decide to do with the ABS system from the Tahoe? I am working on a similar build right now swapping a 1960 Chevy Apache 80 onto a 2006 GMC Topkick chassis with a d-max. My challenge is trying to keep the ABS system but also trying to figure out what computer I need to keep to run the ABS program. Any good write ups or threads that you have seen on these ABS systems?

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Well...I decided it was time to bring this thread back from the dead.

I know i had posted earlier about building a shop. However, life is funny sometimes, and that just didnt work out like i planned. Life got in the way. So I had started searching for some shop space to rent near me, and after months of searching, I finally found a perfect little spot. I got myself all moved in over the weekend, and got back to work on the project! It is a bit of a stretch target, But i would really like to get this thing to move under its own power before the yend of the year.

The big picture plan is to just get it on the road. So I am planning to use as many factory systems from the tahoe as possible for the time being. No engine swap, no headers, no cam swap. Bare minimum to get it moving.

I have watched enough of the youtube builders that all say the same thing. Get your project driving, and it will give you the motivation to keep going. So I want to try to move it under its own power, even if it is just around the block, and I can do all the rest of the fun stuff like cam swaps, 6.0 swap etc over the winter, and I will have more drive.

More to come!

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

This is Great News:metal:

Looking forward to the (More to come)

Do you have a You Tube channel?

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

I kinda do, but not really. I got a lot of value from the two guys that did 57’s on a Tahoe frame that put it up on YouTube, so I should probably do the same.

I’ll get my ass in gear and start filming some stuff.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

So...I got myself all settled in, and got to work.

item number one on the list is to get the lift kit installed in the front of this thing. It was a considerable amount of work, but not overly difficult. THe instructions were so so.

I had a few snags along the way, but overall it went pretty smooth. Most of my hang ups were because i just didn’t have the right tools in the new space yet. its incredibly frustrating when all you need is a deep socket, and you can’t do a dozen other things because of that one stupid thing.

On a positive note, one thing I was absolutely amazed at was how well PB blaster works to unstick things. I know this shouldn’t come as real news to anyone. But as an example, I had two things that just fought and fought and fought me. I had to remove the front hub and bearing assembly from the original steering knuckle, and of course, they were both rusted solid. I beat on them for half an hour, and gained absolutely zero progress. The passenger side torsion bar was the same. I absolutely could not get the damn thing to move.

It was getting late, so I figured, this was as goods place as any to stop for the evening. I gave them a really good PB soaking before I left for the evening, and let myself dread removing them the next day.

Well wouldn’t you know it...the same hub that I beat on until I could hardly lift the hammer...literally fell out when I picked the knuckle up. I was shocked. the torsion bar was the same, with a little gentle persuasion, it came right out.

I watched a little YouTube, and apparently liquid wrench is even better? So I might pick some of that up. But I've always just gave stuff a little shot of WD40, and that’s all I ever used.

Anyhow, I got the thing back together, and I’m hoping to take it for a burn here shortly. I still need to torque the front axles together. But overall, I think it is sitting at a pretty good height now.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

old suspension out...

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

new suspension in...

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

on all fours with the BDS 4.5" suspension lift installed

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

I have the new diff with 4.56 gears installed in the front and rear, and was able to take it for a little spin. It drives pretty good with the lift! After getting it back together, I decided to try to remove the VATS before i disconnected everything. I got HP tuners installed, and it wasnt that hard of a process actually. Once I got the computer tuning done, the tear down began...

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Starting to look pretty bare!

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Well, things just got serious.
The guy I rent the shop from has a little tractor, and he brought it home on the weekend, so That is how we got the Tahoe body off the frame. It was little bit on the sketch side, but we managed.
I drug it back inside, and got the old body mounts cut off and ground clean, and I have all of the old wiring stripped.
While I was waiting for the tractor to show up, I got the old bed apart, and salvaged the cross sills. I took them to a DIY blasting place in town, and got them all cleaned up and painted, along with some of the other under dash parts.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

cleaning up and painting brackets

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Frame is inside, and ready for more ripping apart.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

I plopped the tahoe onto the old frame so i could tug it around. and I have to admit, it looks abolutely hilarious to me. Has anyone ever seen an extended wheelbase dually tahoe before?

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Old body mounts cut off and ground clean

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

AND! i found a rattle can spray paint that is a pretty much exact match to the old patina, it is a rustoluem flat turquoise. I sprayed a little patch of the old rusty fender, and you can hardly tell a difference. So I am sure that will come in handy for a few things. its close enough for where the project is at right now anyhow.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Man...did I get a lot accomplished over the weekend! I started out fixing up the exhaust. When I got the Tahoe, I noticed it had a pretty major exhaust leak on the drivers side. Well no wonder. the drivers side exhaust was broken almost completely off doenstream of the manifold flange. So i cut that all out, and i figued I might as well do a Cat delete while i was at it. And of course. There was the usual broken exhaust bolts to deal with. I welded a nut on each of them and they spun right out. And since i was already putting a new exhaust in, I welded on a super 44 with a little turn down. I have a nice stainless system that I am going ot put on it later, but for now, just to get it driving, I think this will work okay.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

super 44 welded on with the turndown

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

the usual LS exhaust bolt carnage

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

and now the exciting stuff... i finally got to the point where i was ready to mount the cab. I tried with my engine hoist and slings, but my hoist ran out of height. And it was late friday night anyhow, so i figured this was time to take a break and hit it again in the morning.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Off to the Home Depot saturday morning, and I made the SuperCabLIfer9000.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

it was a bit sketch...but it worked.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

so i decided to mock up the front clip to see how everything lined up. SO far so good! I think the wheel is more or less cenetered in the opening.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

At this point, I wanted to see it with the rest of the front end togther, half of the reason was just to see how it sits. It is considerably higher than i thought it was going to be. I probably could have got away with a lift and level instead of a full on 4.5" lift. but we will see how it sits once the suspension settles a bit.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

and then i Mocked up a box side, just to see what the finished product will look like! I only got one side on before it got late, but I'll get everything else on this week, just so i can bounce the suspension a few times and see where the final resting height ends up.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Amazingly enough, even the inner fenders are going to work without any trimming.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

That is a very impressive fit!

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Great job, it comes together well.
It could be a high boy.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

I just had to unbolt some of the ABS components from off the drivers frame rail, and it fit right on.

And speaking of brakes...Can you help me understand some of the brake system?

I want to use as much of the factory hardware as possible. I am pretty sure I have the hydroboost braking system and associated lines all figured out.

Getting it all mocked up, I realized I have to ditch the ABS if a want it to all fit properly. Which really isn’t a huge deal. However, this is where I am a bit confused. I watched your video on proportioning valves, and I am wondering if I can get away with using what I've got as far as factory components to re make the brake system.

It seems simple enough. I keep the lines from the master down to the proportioning valve. Two lines come out of the master and into the proportioning valve.

But here is where I am a bit confused.

There are three lines that come out of the proportioning valve. I am thinking two are for front and rear feeds to the ABS system. But what is the third port for? I need help understanding how to route this. As long as this rear port is not needed, I should be able to simply plug that rear port, and I should be good to go. Unless I need that third line for some reason, and this proportioning valve will not function without ABS?

In my mind, the factory proportioning valve should work well because I did not make MAJOR changes. Brake size and everything else will be the same, there will just be a bit less weight on the rear of the truck than the factory. But in my mind, I think I will have shed weight relatively evenly across the entire vehicle, so it shouldn’t change too much.

And is it true that the rear port on the master is for the front brakes and the front port is for the rear brakes?

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

I suspect there are two ports for your Left and Right front brakes, and one port for the back brakes that T at the axle. The valve acts as your T for the front. I could be wrong. I'm using an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear only of my '61.

The factory proportioning valve should be pretty spot on for what you've done. Worry about it only if the back brakes start locking up first.

If the master cylinder has the same pistons front and rear insde, it technically shouldn't matter which one goes to the front and which one goes to the rear. I plumbed the front port to the front brakes, and the rear port to the rear brakes. Old-school iron masters often have different master cylinder volumes for each half, with the larger volume going to discs and the smaller volume going to drums.

If you can still keep the ABS (even just by moving it onto an inner fender), I think that would be super stellar awesome!

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Great progress, that is a really cool project!

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

thanks man! I found my shop space out by Cochrane. Theres always beer in the fridge if you want to stop by lol.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

I got a lot done over the weekend, but I forgot to take a lot of pictures of it!
I first focused on getting the brake master in and getting the linkage working properly. I used a similar idea to this thread to make my brake system function, using the same bell crank concept.
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...&postcount=324
I wanted to keep the push rod stock, so if I had to replace it in the future, it is just a bolt in affair. I did the same lowering the pedal hole by 1.5”, and it all seemed to work out well. The only difference is that I did not reuse another brake pedal. I reused the clutch and fabricated up arms to go with it. Same concept though.

Next I got onto the steering column. I got a flaming river direct fit column, and wouldn’t you know it, it was not a direct fit. It probably fit perfectly for the original non tilt, non automatic shift column, but of course, I changed all of that. So the larger diameter of the automatic shifter bell shaped portion of the column was hitting the opening in the dash. No biggie though. I just drilled new holes in the bracket about an inch towards the driver, and that gave me enough room to clear the bigger diameter.
Then I moved onto steering shaft.
The steering box is mounted on the inside of the Tahoe frame, and the outside of the original frame, so this changed the alignment of the shaft a bit. The shaft made some contact with the inner fender, but nothing a quick zip disc couldn’t take care of. I will make a little patch panel that bolts in place along with the other indent piece in the inner fender.
The Tahoe steering shaft is 1” double D, and the flaming river column is ¾ double D, so I just sleeved a piece of ¾” into a piece of 1”, and everything worked perfectly.
And with the column in place, I hooked up the transmission shift linkage. I was going to get the Lokar part, but then I got the knock off version, which is almost good, but not really. The Heim joints don’t have spacers with them, so the linkage binds instead of fully articulating. I whipped up some spacers on the lathe, which solved this issue.

Then I decided it was time for the fun parts. I bought a 3200 stall converter and a truck Norris cam. So I decided I was going to put these in the truck. After looking it all over, I decided it would be easier to pull the engine out instead of transmission, transfer case, driveshafts etc. So out came the engine. In went the new converter and cam, and back in it all went.
I then mounted the radiator. I got a direct fit rad from Entropy. Whish is a wonderful looking piece. And of course…not a direct fit either.
I had a conflict between the rad and the steering box, so I moved the rad up 1”, and it seems to work fine. I measured it out to make sure I don’t hit the hood, and I SHOULD have about an inch of clearance, but I wont know for sure until I hang the sheet metal back on.
Then I plumbed tranny cooler lines, fit the upper rad hose, and ripped out all the existing brake lines and ABS assembly. I also got rid of all the evap lines to the fuel tank.

So that is where we are at! Sorry for the lack of pictures. I will do better. I was just in full thrash mode and hardly even took enough time to eat, never mind take pictures.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

so...things left to do before it moves on its own...

wiring

brake lines (which I am waiting for parts from Amazon)

lower rad hose and heater hoses.

and then reassemble the body. I might even have this thing making noise by haloween!

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Nice concept. Its not my vehicle but cant wait to see its final stance. Also wondering on the price of the EZ swap kit.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

I think it will sit just shy of 7' to the top of the cab when I'm all done. I ordered 35x12.50's for it, and they should be in this week. I do notice that the suspension does settle a fair bit when I have all the sheet metal on it.

I cant remember exactly what the kit was worth. I think it was somewhere around 1500 bucks. Overall, its a decent kit. there are definitely gaps, but for the most part, I figured most of it out. Sometimes the guy replies, sometimes he doesn't. The instructions are so so. the fit is okay. But you have to be prepared to make it work and adjust some things. Don't expect to just zap it on and go.

But like I said, overall, it is pretty good. The kit was supposed to come with cab bolts, and didn't. I don't know if it was supposed to come with rear bumper mounts or not, but it didn't. The front bumper mounts say they are for a 60-66, but I learned that a 60-62 and a 63-66 bumper are shaped juuuuust different enough to not work properly. So I will have to figure something out for that. But all in all, those are minor things I feel.

If you're at all handy at fabricating, and figuring things out, this kit will work fine for you. My skills are entry level at best, and I am making it work.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

And as for updates...

I got a fair bit done!

I got the heater installed. It was kind of a bummer because I THOUGHT I got the kit that would work with what I had, but apparently not. I kind of figured the AC lines would not be correct, but It is missing two of the lever assemblies to make the defrost blend work, and it is missing the lever to make the AC work. So I got as much working as I could. I really want to take it for a spin once I get it together, and defrost and heat is essential. So the heater is together enough to be functional now. I did not install the nice little under dash vents yet, because I figured they would just be in the way for wiring.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

The heater hangs down a bit, and it's kinda ugly, but I think it will disappear once I get some black carpet or even rubber floor mats in place.

It certainly moves a lot of air when it is on high.

Re: 1960 Apache K10 build
 

Next I moved on to the wiring. I got an american autowire kit, and for the most part, it has really made the wiring a snap so far. I got the main fuse panel mounted, and the switches and ignition working. The only thing is that there is a TON of circuits that I will not be using. SO my plan is to get it together, get it driving, and then once I get it to that point, I will go ahead and remove the things I do not need. For example, it has circuits for a dedicated VSS signal, but my Tahoe harness has all of those things already. as long as they all work, I should be in the clear. A lot of things like the main harness that comes out of the firewall by the distributor, I don't think I need any of it. And most of the gauge cluster will get information from the OBD2 port, so that plug will be redundant as well. But I would rather work around them for now, than snip them and wish I hadn't.

and some other things should all be plug and play. I will be able to just connect my harness from the flaming river column into the main wiring harness.

I also rough mounted the throttle pedal. I only put one bolt in it for now. I will do something better later, but I wanted to have the seat in it, and drive it around for a sec to see if the pedal is too high or too low.