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Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
Just a sound clip of my ole 62. The engine needs a minor rebuild. Well maybe I will stroke her. The way the economy is looking I will just keep the motor I have in her. Click the link below:
http://www.thehotrodshop.net/images/prostreetwear1.gif http://soundboard.com/sb/1Bad62ProStreet.aspx http://www.thehotrodshop.net/images/graf_1.gif Where were you in '62? |
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Well fellas, I have not polished my anodized aluminum grille assembly yet. After looking closely inspecting it I decided to saturate it with WD-40 first. That took care of the oxidation. Little lesson from my Dad!
Here is what I have so far. |
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More Pics of the anodized aluminum grille assembly.
What do you think fellas? |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
That looks great:metal:
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Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
Looks good. You gonna paint the Chevrolet on the grill black?
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Nah.....
I will just buy the Decals, and put them on there like I did on my original grille. :metal: |
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Just som Pics of the Ole' 62! Going to tear down my engine soon. Got some plans a brewing....
Maybe go "BIG", or drop down some...... like ((327ci)). Any thoughts guys???????????? My Engine is a: 1970 Chevrolet 350ci LS9 Cast Iron 4 Bolt Main (.30 over) 400hp@5000RPM 380Ft. Lbs@3800RPM 10.5:1 Compression Ratio Pistons Hyperedic Cast Aluminum Flat Top Camshaft Hydraulic Dual Pattern (Lift .443” Int., .465” Exh.) Crankshaft Nodular Cast iron Heads Chevrolet 291 Double Hump 1.94 Int 1.50Exh |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
UPDATE:
Well my father and I will be finishing the Rear Suspension on my '62 soon. I am going to use The Ladder Bar with Floaters and Leaf Springs in my application on my truck. I like the Triangulated 4 Links, but will just stick with the plan for now since I wont be Drag Racing! My dad will be helping with that since he just started his buisness. I will be posting Pics of the progression as we go! http://z3.invisionfree.com/Shadyside...showtopic=9105 How Ladder Bars Work: http://www.competitionplus.com/2004_...s/chassis5.jpg The Ladder Bar is a more sophisticated traction device because it serves as an extremely rigid, bridge-type truss that locates the rear axle housing directly to the chassis. With the axle housing held firmly in place, the torque applied to the differential is now transferred immediately through the Ladder Bars and into the chassis. By using the Ladder Bar to carry power to the chassis, the front end reacts by rising. As the front of the car travels upward, rapid weight transfer is created which "plants" the rear tires and propels the car forward. Housing Floaters Eliminate Suspension Bind: http://www.competitionplus.com/2004_...s/chassis6.jpg When using ladder bars with a leaf spring rear suspension, the axle housing cannot be rigidly attached to the springs. If it were, severe binding of the rear suspension would occur because the Ladder Bar and the leaf spring both travel in separate competing arcs. By allowing the housing to rotate and glide on the leaf spring, the Floating Housing Mount eliminates the bind and allows the Ladder Bars to work the way they were designed. Key Performance Benefits of a Ladder Bar or Fourlink Suspension Substantially improved traction control over existing suspension. Helps eliminate wheel hop, chassis "squat", and other adverse launch characteristics. Potential to shorten 60 ft. times through additional suspension adjustability even if car currently hooks well. Which one is best for my application? Selecting a fourlink or ladder bar suspension Benefits of a FOURLINK: The improved suspension adjustability is the greatest benefit and can shorten quarter mile times, or more specifically, 60 ft. times through fine tuning of the instant center to yield an optimal percentage of rise for varying track or traction conditions. They are well suited for short wheelbase cars that have minimal clearance from the rear axle centerline to the drivers seat. They are also well suited for Street Rod and Pro Street applications where uneven road surfaces are encountered which can be compensated for by running the bars in a parallel fashion. Benefits of LADDER BARS: A Ladder Bar suspension is a substantial improvement over a stock suspension that may utilize a pair of leaf springs or trailing arms and helps eliminate spring wrap-up on leaf spring equipped cars. It is quite easy to install and maintain, and typically requires fewer floorboard modifications. Adjusting a pair of ladder bars is quite easy due to the fact that there are only adjustment holes at the front of the bar. The remaining adjustment is in the lower portion of the bars and is for returning the pinion angle to its correct position at 1 to 2 degrees nose down in relation to the driveshaft. Still Uncertain? Maybe this will help. If your primary concern is to go drag racing and achieve the best possible 60 ft. times and possibly run te only adjustment holes at the front of the bar. The remaining adjustment is in the lower portion of the bars and is for returning the pinion angle to its correct position at 1 to 2 degrees nose down in relation to the driveshaft. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1228321620 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1228321620 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1228321774 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1228322151 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1228087389 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=315664 Gearz - Ladder Bar System (Season 2 Episode 5) |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
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This is my nephew! He is almost 2 years old and He loves Power Block TV!
We watched Pinks all out this weekend! Start'em while there young fellas! http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...an_Dragway.jpg |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
Here are the Plans:
http://www.jegs.com/ Jegster Ladder Bar Crossmembers Jegster Ladder Bar Crossmembers #550-40010 Jegster ladder bar crossmembers are stronger per pound, because the included braces allow the main crossmember to be made of lighter material and allow increasing the weld area to the frame rails. Made from 1.5'' x .134'' wall mild steel tubing. 56'' Extra Wide Kit includes: (1) 56'' crossmember with 2-1/2'' center drop. (4) .188'' thick, 3-hole brackets with 3/4'' holes. (2) bracket webs. (2) 1-1/4'' x 18'' steel tube braces. (2) bolts and lock nuts. http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/500/550/550-40010.jpg Competition Engineering Ladder Bar Competition Engineering #247-2006 Increase traction by eliminating wheelhop Ladder Bar Features 33" long Best for 100"-115" wheelbases Made of 1" O.D./.156" wall tubing 3/4" forged rodends threaded directly into tubing Front end braces prevent rodends from bending & breaking Double 360° housing brackets withstand brutal loads http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/200/247/247-2006.jpg Competition Engineering Floating Axle Housing Mount Competition Engineering #247-2030 The use of ladder bars with a leaf spring rear suspension requires that the rear end housing not be rigidly attached to the leaf spring. This is because the ladder bars and the front half of the leaf spring establish two different and competing centers of rotation for the axle housing. A floating housing mount eliminates the binding and allows the housing to rotate properly. http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/200/247/247-2030.jpg |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
have you already done this or are you planning on it
i want to do this without the floater |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
Not yet Bud. It's going to cost $500.00 shipping and all. But I will post pics soon as I get started on it. Why no Floaters? I strongly suggest using the Floaters Bud. I also have to get coil overs for my front end. Shoot fire. . There is a lot I have to get!
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Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
i would go ladder bars coilovers and a wishbone locator
plus mine is a trailing arm suspension anyway i want the ladderbars for adjustability |
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Gotcha!
Hey. . Do you know if anyone else has Ladder Bar rear setups on their trucks? Most of the guys I see on here are using 4 links. |
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i think everybody is using their stock trailing arms instead of ladderbars since they are pretty much the same
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Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
No new updated yet.
But what I did find is the old renderings and figures of the fabrication me and my father did on my truck. So I scanned them and posted it on here incase I lost it. http://2tb6gq.bay.livefilestore.com/...ProStreet2.jpg http://2tb6gq.bay.livefilestore.com/...2ProStreet.jpg http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...ryanLail17.jpg http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...ryanLail14.jpg http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...ryanLail18.jpg http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...ryanLail19.jpg Stepside Demensions......... For Tubbing: http://2tb6gq.bay.livefilestore.com/...Demensions.jpg |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
Go with the 327.
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Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
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I have been thinking alot about building big inch small block. The quest for big cubes doesn`t have to lead to a big block anymore. Now you can add cubic inches to your current engine without having to swap intakes, headers, engine mounts & other accessories. By building a big cube small block you can have all the additional torque & horse-power of a big block without all the extra weight, expense & effort. I have not completely decided on what I am going to do yet. Thanks, 1Bad62Pro/Street One Bad Mamma Jamma |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
Yeah a good built small block will out run a big block and the price of building a BB any day. A friend of mine had a 409 in his 76 monza and ate BB's lunch all day long at the track :lol:
I used to work for an automotive machine shop i dont know it all but do know of some tricks ;) |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
I always wanted a 427.....
So a 427 cubic-inch small block would be nice. Been reading in my book..... http://www.motobooks.co.nz/CMS/compo...a5d6d8b976.jpg |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
1Bad62
I looked at your build thread and think you would be able to make your bed tilt. If you make a frame that attaches to the bottom of your bed and lays over the original truck frame it would work. You may have to raise your bed floor up for clearance but I think you could make it work. I'm raising my bed floor up because my truck won't haul anything but a$$. You want the pivot to be as low as possible to keep the front of the bed from getting into the back of the cab. Kim |
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I will be starting back on her this Spring! Gonna finaly breathe life in the Ole' Beast! |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
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Just a little update:
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More Pics of the Progress:
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More Pics of the Progress:
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More Pics of the Progress:
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Few more:
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Last ones:
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Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
Really nice truck! I'm diggin the yellow! I see you're debating on an engine to put in? Just a suggestion, but if you are going all out race I'd recommend a 377, destroked 400 with the 350 crank in it. Those bad boys like the revs! I was wondering if you wouldn't happen to know the width of the outside of your rear tires? I'm doing some big meats on the back of my '64 and want to get an idea of how wide I can actually go within my bedsides.
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Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
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Any wider and I will have to start cutting. Now remember that the Frames are different from a '62 and a '64. Is yours a stepside or a Fleeters? 1960-66 Chevy/GMC Truck Frame Diagram: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=325736 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1250357581 |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
i would go with a 421 stroker
a guy in town had a 421 with 18 degree heads on it in his 68 maro it was pretty bad just a thought oh and nice work on the cab |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
I have a fleetside, my only concern is how wide I can go within the fenders. I just ordered my wheels 4.75" BS 12" wide and my axle is 57" WMS to WMS, so that makes for around 75" wide when I account for tire bubble. I'll clear the frame rails just fine, but its the bedsides that concerns me.
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Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
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My dad keeps telling me I need to leave the engine alone. If I want a Mild/Wild engine just get another one and build it or buy a crate. The Engine I have now is a great street engine built for longevity and nostalgia. I do love 427 Big blocks.... Large Bore with Short Stokes!!!!! http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...res.gif?psid=1 But finding one cheap and not wore slap out or raced is rare. |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
all you need is a 454 block and 396 crank
with some different pistons |
Re: Project: "Full Metal Yellow Jacket" Build Thread
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Little Progress!
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Some more pics:
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More:
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Some More:
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