Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I bench bleed my MC's by bolting it up, filling the reservoir and running a line from the port to the reservoir and pumping it. I never understood using a vise, etc. Thoughts?

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

No need for a prop valve when using a drum/drum....the master takes care of the pressure differences...

Sorry, I'll get the fitting list soon...

Works the same way....on a vise you can watch it closely thats all.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I always use the "in car" method. Has worked fine for me. Just install the plugs that come with the master and pump the pedal making sure not to move the piston more than 1 inch. I've also done it by hand holding the master in one hand and using a phillips screwdriver to pump the piston. Actually easier than it sounds :lol:

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Thought I should add that on my 1962 GMC with the Dana 44 rear end, where the front 1/4" line tees off to the rear, my line to the rear is a 3/16" line. I wasn't sure if it was the same thread on the 3/16" line as the 1/4" inverted flare fittings (possible, didn't get to check), but I picked up a 3/16" adapter bushing in addition to the two other adapter bushings for the masters.
One was a 5/16" to 1/4" adapter, and the other one was 9/16"-18 to 1/4" I think. This fit my new remanufactured 1967 Chevy/GMC truck 1-1/8" bore drum/drum master cylinder. Got one piece of 60" line as I think I read someone else saying they needed about 51", and then I got a second piece 40" long to replace the line from the old master down to the first tee by the left front wheel. This piece will need to be longer on mine at least, since my 62 manual trans master has the lines out the bottom. The lines came double flared on both ends with the 1/4" inverted flare fittings already on.

Advanced Auto Parts and Car Quest both had drawers full of these adapters, so it makes it pretty simple. Take your master with you and bush it down to 1/4".

what I got:
*60" of 1/4" line w/two inverted flare 1/4" fittings (for new rear line)
*40" of 1/4" line w/two inverted flare 1/4" fittings (for front line, from new location on side of new master to tee at left front junction - might make do with a 30")
*1/4" inv. flare coupling or union
*1/4" plug
*5/16" tube x 1/4" tube adapter bushing for master rear line (check your master)
*9/16"-18 thread to 1/4" tube adapter bushing for master front line (check your master)

DORMAN Part # M66787 More Info {First Stop #18008616, 3912128, 3941939, 5458531, 5458905} w/Power Brakes; Bore = 1-1/8"; RWD; Bendix; Exc. 11000 Lb Rear Axle$50.79



On the bushing sizes, I believe the thread sizes in the master are 9/16"x18 and 1/2"x20, but I listed the way Advance Auto Parts has them on my receipt.

Also it should be noted that I am replacing a 1-1/8" bore master with a 1-1/8" bore master. I am adding a power booster (the old style that uses these deep bore masters same as a manual master's bore). I read in one article that said if you are switching over to power, you can get away with running one size larger master cylinder bore diameter. So I could have ran 1-1/4", but I hope to reuse this master minus the front residual valve for swapping to power discs, which would have used a 1-1/8" bore power brake master. Did I confuse you yet?

I'm also dealing with a 60-62, so I have to get rid of my stock clutch/brake combo master and install a separate clutch master in the stock location, and using a power booster and custom made booster bracket to give me the room to run the clutch master in the stock clutch master location. See my other recent thread on this topic.

I have not fit all this up yet, but based on Cheif's writeup, I think all of this is correct.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

John you did have to drill new holes for the master right?

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

No, not at all...it bolted right up.

Course, thats cause us 63 and up guys are special !;):lol:

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

2 questions..
could Isee a pic of your tubing bender? not the belly:lol: the actual bender.
and, does this kind of system need a proportioning valve?

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

It looks like this one....I also have the Matco double flaring kit.
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Using a drum/drum master (two port Impala) you do not need a prop valve.
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Hi Chief, Great write up. I am currently doing this on my '64. Got some questions. Did your old master have a 1" bore? What about the new one? My '64 is 1". The master at O'reilly's for a '70 Impala, drum/drum, no power, was 1 1/8. The master with a 1" bore was listed for discs with power. I believe I have read on other posts that using 1 1/8" master will make the brakes feel spongy. Do I have that right? Is the 1" bore the one to go with? I wonder if the parts store has it listed wrong? Thanks in advance for any help from anyone that can.
Eugene

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Not exactly sure, I'd have to research that.

I went with one from a '67 Impala. At the time, my buddys 67 Impala was in my shop, so I compared them.

The brakes on the black truck worked great...full pressure and never spongy.

My new truck will recieve the same treatment, although this one will get 6-lugs discs.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I also used a 69 Corvette M/C with my rear disc setup. Works great. Cost around $35.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Thanks Chief, any help is greatly appreciated.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Here is some info on the MC I think I will use. I think the Pic is at the bottom. The my MC came from orielly;s part number 10-1339 the pic on their site shows a different MC

Fenco Reman / Master Cylinder (Brake System)
For your 1967 Chevrolet Truck C10 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 4.6L 2BL OHV 8cyl PREVIOUS
Price:$14.99

Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $9.00

Total:$23.99AVAILABILITY: SEND TO STORE LISTAVAILABLENormally stocked at your local store.
SHIP TO HOMEAVAILABLEShips within 2 business days.

Part Number: M1505
Weight: 8.75 lbs
Warranty: LLT
Application: With front drum brakes

Notes: - installer warning - unit must be bench bled. If you experience any installation problems, call toll free: USA 1-866-787-5132 can 1-800-293-0760

Reservoir: With Reservoir - Built In
Bore Size: 1"
Cylinder Honing: Never Honed
New Sleeved Bore: Yes
Special Installation Notes Included: Yes
Primary - Hole Size and Location: 9/16"-18 Fender Side
Secondary - Hole Size and Location: 1/2"-20 Fender Side


Features & Benefits:

100% : New Sleeved Bore, New Epdm (Ethylene Propylene Diene M) Seals & O Rings, Computerized Multi Stage Tested. Push Rods On All Manual Applications, Includes Part Specific Bleeder Kit

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

dug this one up cause I really want to do this. Question though, can I just buy new pre-bent lines from the Truck shop and make it a full on bolt in affair? I dont mind spending the extra cash since I dont have the time/space to fab up the lines myself.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

QUOTE: The push rod was also modified for this MC.
Any more info on this. I feel the need for a dual MC for safety reasons.
Nice work and write up. :metal:

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

the lines are real easy to bend, in fact, if just keeping the 4 whl drums, you don't even need to cut and flare the lines if you buy the right lengths, see my posts on this and it probably gives you the lengths I used. When doing discs up front, you will need a lot more plumbing for the prop valve and all.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

QUOTE: The push rod was also modified for this MC.
Any more info on this. I feel the need for a dual MC for safety reasons.
i have a 61 c10 and i think i have every thing i need to complete the master swap. im useing a master i bought from autozone for $15 bucks it is from a 67 c10.
just have a few questions first thanks
1. do i have to drill new holes for this master
2. what mods are needed for push rod(pics please)
3.what is everyone useing for brake lines (they said n/a at auto zone) mine are a little soft.

thanks for all the info

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

1) No holes need to be drilled...it'll bolt right up.

2) The push rod had to be extended. I sold my black truck, and for some reason never got pics of the rod. I cut the stock rod in half, then welded more rod between the two. I still retained the adjuster part of the rod. Once the master is installed, and the pedal is in it's released position (check your bump stops too) you want the tip of the rod to be about 1/16" to 1/8" max away from the piston.

3) I purchased some straight pieces of line from my local fittings store (or a speed shop).....it came with ends. Bent them and double flared them myself.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

On the '60-'62's you will need to drill holes to bolt up a '63 and newer master cylinder

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Oooops...thanks Cap, I didn't catch the year.

Keep assuming people have the 63 and up...

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Has anyone done this, and have a parts list, and what modification the push rod needs (adjusted or welded) and length for the brake line?

If going from the 63 MC to a 67 C10 MC the bore diam is smaller 1-1/8 vs 1" from the numbers on line. IIRC this would require more peddle travel fro the same brake force?

David

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

John
Got my 1964 with a new master cylinder in the plastic bag on the seat not installed looks like he one you used.Is there a way to tell difference in drum/drum master and a drum/disk master? Is there a proportion valve for a drum/drum set up? Thank you
Jim

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

John
I have another question after reviewing, My old truck has the original master on and also has a power brake booster from a 84 C-10 on it. The power brakes seem to work OK but !!!?? The power brake rod was modified. All this has me confused I need your advice what direction do I go?
Jim

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Don't know if it's cool to bring this back up but I'm thinking that I really want to do this when I put my truck back together in a week or two. I get the concept with blocking off the one T and the split but where I'm lost is the push rod... anybody have clever ideas on how to make a good pushrod? Would a pushrod like this work? Any thoughts on where to get the parts it does?

Thanks!
Barry

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

You can use your old master cylinder's push rod. If it is addjustable then addjust it out,if it is not you can have some one cut it and weld it. Or you can get an addustable one from speedway or a used one from the wreckers.
The push rod that is in the link will not work I used that type on my clutch master it had a pushrod with a threded end.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

It was very cool to bring this back up ...

Man, haven't seen this thread in YEARS !!

Whats up SAL !!!!

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

John !!! Hows life in the country ? Hope all is well

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

We are good .... Ive been going a serious of bad luck, but Im bouncing back slowly !!

;)

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Would the pushrod from a 67-70 non-power truck work for those who don't have an adjustable one? Just a thought...
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I ran across and old post a while back in the 67-72 section, this might help as well ...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=456859

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

you are not alone on that if it isnt one thing it is another. Hang in there

Back to the original post: my oe push rod was about 1/4 to short when fully addjusted due to the fact that I used an adapter for the master cylinder as a 60 used a 3 bolt set up and not 2. I ordered an addustable push rod from speedway it was 3/8 thred ,I used the part off of my old clutch master that attaches to the pedal, worked perfect !
Check to see if your push rod is addjustable it may work as is .

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Wonderful thread, ChiefRocka.....
As far as the tough times go.....I sure know how that works.
I'll bet it gets better.....Remember...
" Pain is just weakness leaving the body "
We should be pretty strong when all the crap blows over.
I thought I'd add a little info on my own brake upgrades.
A different twist....the K-1000......4X4 mods.
I swapped my stock frt. & rear diffs for late model Dana 44 & 12 bolt corp. respectively....
Because I wanted to add the Hydro-Boost set-up eventually, I used the down-time to take care of it all at once.
With the new disc brakes and larger rear wheel cyl.s, I thought it wise to add the brake proportioning valve along with new brake lines.
I didn't do near as good a job with the camera as you did, but I did take a few.
I hid the new valve inside the frame-rail just under the driver-side firewall, and split the lines from there in the same order as you explained.
I also took the slide-on spring style tubing shield what-ya-call-its off of the doner 1-ton and used them coming off the master cyl and again in high abrasion or vibration areas like across the cross member, near the rear wheel cyls, etc. I slid them onto the line after the bend, before the fitting and flare work.
Here's the few pic's that show a little of what I did.
I could take a pic of the proportioning valve if anyone wants to see it.
As far as the twin master cylinder set-up that's stock for the '63....the clutch MC sure is a different story. More on that if you're interested on my build thread..."Rockdrillers '63 K1000".

After reviewing the photos, I can't say that I showed you much.
I'll take a few good shots of my work and post them a bit later, as I'm sure this thread will circulate around for some time, being the best reference for brake-line work that I've seen so far
Nice job, Chief.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Chief or anyone - is there an easy way to tell a drum/drum master from a disk/drum by looking at it. I ordered a 67 C10 dual res mc from oreilly's - but there was no way of ordering a "drum/drum" vs "disk/drum". It just was what it was, only one option. (or did 67's not even have a disk brake option? - if no, then any mc ordered for a 67 would be drum/drum by default?)

Happy to show my lack of 67-72 knowledge in order to find an answer!
thanks.
jocko

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Disc/drum master has one bowl smaller than the other. Disc/disc and drum/drum both bowls are the same size.
And no disc brakes til '71
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Awesome! Thanks Str8!

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I should add that a disc/disc master is considerably larger in bowl size than a drum/drum master.
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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Again ... I grabed one from '67 Impala...bolted right up.

The Vette ones are perfect for use with all around discs.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Thanks Str8 and ChiefRocka - picked up my 67 C10 MC this morning. Good to go. Same functionally as the 67 imp mc, just has the clip-held top vice the screw down type. Thanks again for the help!

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Hey Chief - reviving this great thread one more time! Quick follow-up for you or anyone that has done this. I noticed that someone asked the question about whether or not the "forward" (i.e. the grill end) port on the master went to the front brakes and the "aft" (i.e. firewall end) port on the master went to the rear brakes. (this is on a DRUM/DRUM setup btw)

Your answer was yes. But I noticed that your fwd line on the master was the one you connected to the rear line's new union. Did that get switched later or something?

Or for anyone out there - on a drum/drum setup, which master cyl port (fwd/aft) goes to which brakes (front/rear), etc....

Thanks all!

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

The REAR PORT, closest to the PUSHROD is the main, or "primary" chamber.

This port is for the FRONT brakes....

The FRONT PORT, furthest from the PUSHROD is the secondary chamber....supplying the REAR brakes.