Re: Ryans62c20's build thread
 

As bad as that trans crossmember looks, remember that there is always worse. With out to many special tools you should be able to whip something up for little to no cash outlay. I would even consider cutting some falt stock to make a large Washer type thingy that would clamp it down squarelyish. hehe. Fight the redneck engineering with more redneck engineering and you might get something that works. In a perfect worl you could have a ton of cash and buy a new one but at 100 bucks a month I would try to be as resourceful as I could.

Just my .02

Eric

Re: Ryans62c20's build thread
 

I haven't started working on the tranny xmember yet.
I bought a rebuilt manual steering box from " steeringstore " on eBay for $125 plus $13 for shipping. I thought this was pretty good since other places I found them on the net were about $220 plus shipping.
I spent 2.5 hours replacing it on Friday. The box is held on to the frame with one short bolt and two long bolts (see pic of inner side of frame). I had a hard time getting the pitman arm off of the outputshaft, even with a puller. Then I had a hard time getting the input shaft loose. I had to use a ball joint puller (wedge shaped fork) to break loose the attachment. You can't just tug on it or you will damage or break the rag joint on the end of your steering rod.
With the new box, you have to ensure that the gear is centered. I did this by slipping the input shaft into the end of the steering rod below the rag joint, then lightly bolting the box on the frame. Then I turned the steering wheel to the stops both ends, then tried to turn it back half that much. Unbolt the box and slip off the input (without rotating the input shaft). Make sure the steering wheel is centered or level. Then try to put the box back on without turning the input shaft. I had to do this like three times to get it centered along with the steering wheel. When you put the steering box on for the final time, you have to slip the input and output shafts into their attachments before you bolt it to the frame. Otherwise you won't be able to get the ends on. The output shaft has four key slots on the gearing that meet up with four keys in the pitman arm hole. Then tighten everything up.

Re: Ryans62c20's build thread
 

Oh. And by the way, Start the whole thing off by making sure your wheels are pointed straight ahead.......

Re: Ryans62c20's build thread
 

Nice looking truck, if you can use a 64 tranny crossmember. If it will work, I took mine off. when I replaced my whole front suspension. I'll see if my dad can take a pic since it's at their house. but it's just a peice that goes from one side to the other that's kinda like c channel, with the tab for the tranny to bolt. I didn't have any problem with it at all, and my trucks pushing 400HP. It has the attachments for the parking break on it still. I'll get pics, if you want it I'll take 20 + sh.

Re: Ryans62c20's build thread
 

Thanks for the offer ruffrida2005. That's a great offer!
Can you please post pics of your crossmember on here or email them to rjkee52403@yahoo.com along with the dimensions? I think the frames may not be the same. Please tell me the distance on your crossmember between the inside rail edge to inside rail edge.
I beleive that the frame rails for 63+ goes like this:
| . . . |
| . . . |
| . . . | This is 33.5" apart
whereas my frames do this near the tranny:
| . . . |
|\ . . /|
| |. .| |
| |. .| | I need to measure this..
The inner set of rails begin to slant toward the middle about 9 inches fore of the rear tranny mount. This means that the rails are angled, not parallel, at the rear mount line.

Re: Ryans62c20's build thread
 

My 62 C-20 along with chucks1967 1966 c-10 :metal:

Re: Ryans62c20's build thread
 

joygasim! I cant wait till I get the 66 bet on that truck... dang it! stupid bathroom projects.

Re: Ryans62c20's build thread
 

Another 60-66 Screensaver photo! :metal::metal::metal:

Re: Ryans62c20's build thread
 

Ryan after looking at the underside of your truck, the crossmeber that I have wont work on yours, It's the stock 63-66 mount I have, but the top braket was tanken off. sorry I couldn't help you out on it! If you want to get rid of your whole torsionbar set up and go with the 63-66 set up, I have the whole crossmember from my 64 out, since I changed mine to the SD crossmember. Let me know I'll be coming out your way in the end of August!

Re: Ryans62c20's build thread
 

I might be interested in the trans crossmember...I'll pm ya