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Re: Home made burb headliner
I didn't put any sound deadening material on the roof or the panels.
It is something I think I want to do some day, since the inside of my burb is very noisy just cruising down the road. I used 3 layers of sound proofing on my floor in font, and on the inside of my door panels. Just ran out of materials from the roof area. |
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I'm pretty sure my headliner had never been out. There was paper faced white foam, about 1/2 thick under the perforated board.
In the very front was sound deadener attached the the roof panel. |
Re: Home made burb headliner
[QUOTE=Hart_Rod;7854325]There was a foam piece on the portion of the roof over the driver/passengers head, but not from there back.[/QUOTE]
I'm more interested in the heat insulation factor over the sound deadening. I will be using some of the Reflectix type of material as I got a bunch of it cheap. I was planning on trying to put two layers of it up. I have all the pieces of the original headliner material, but the PO glued cloth like the type that covers speaker cabinets on the perforated panels and now they are all distorted (from the extra weight?). Can't wait to see how yours come out. My 67 has a pebbly (?) looking type of asphalt/tar sound deadener over the front seat area only. |
Re: Home made burb headliner
I think the stick on stuff like fatmat or dynamat or the like would be best for the ceiling, just as long as it was applied well and no air bubbles allowed to exist.
The ceiling gets some condensation during the cold weather, and then the heater being on the ceiling will get wet. Just gotta be aware of that when putting stuff up there, since you wouldn't want to create a pocket or a source for moisture to collect causing rust. |
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Moisture??? Condensation??? What are these things? In northwest Oregon I don't believe we talk about water in that way. :lol::lol::lol::lol: Good points Vector it. I may have to rethink my plan.
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I made it to Lowes this weekend and looked at the FRP. I found 2 different colors of white. One was a really bright white and shiny and the other one was kinda an egg-shell color and satin. I'm going to use the egg-shell/satin one. I think it looks pretty close to the stock color of the factory headliner (could be wrong). I've attached pictures of both, but I don't know if you will be able to tell the difference (first one is satin, second one is shiny).
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Re-posting these dimensions from earlier posts on headliners...
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Got the front one cut
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LockDoc |
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Like everything on your Burban, it looks great. Did you have a pattern or did you use Port Headlights drawing?
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Did you mock it up with poster board or something else? Or did you just dive in with the FRP(?) material?
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No guts no glory! :metal:
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Looks great!
Paul |
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Looks great Rob, I really need to do this to my burb.
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UPDATE: I have all my panels cut and installed. The fit is good and the satin white is similar to the factory original. I have been trying to find some nice plastic headliner bows, but that is starting to seem like an impossible task. So I got in contact with a company about manufacturing some new ones. I sent them a couple of pieces to use as samples. I think this will probably happen. They won't be chrome like the originals, but they will be paintable. In the meantime, I took the 3 nicest bows that I have and color matched them to the headliner material. This will have to do for right now.
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Looking back through this old thread. Nice job on the headliner, looks amazing. I'll bet it takes about a week for your arms and shoulders to recover after that.
Definitely interested if you have the headliner bows reproduced. Have you made any progress on these lately? Bret |
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Looks great Rob!
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Woody |
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Just a couple of by the ways. The plastic bows that hold the panels up are fragile and won't take much force when you try to remove them. I have heard that heating them with a hair dryer can help but the fiber board will singe easily.
The sagging of the fiber board is caused by moisture getting in the board and gravity pulling it down. I have never heard of anyone successfully reversing this process. But there may be a interior restoration shop out there that deals in high end cars like Packards or Rolls Royce from the 30's and 40's that could do it. One of the side effects of the sagging is the area of the headliner is increased as the thickness is decreased in areas. So to get back to normal you would somehow have to compensate for that. I had to source two partial factory headliners to get enough dimensions to build a replacement for mine. The thing I noticed is there was a difference in the dimensions of the pieces between the two sets. Enough to say I don't believe they were die cut but hand cut for each truck. And finally the front panel was the first panel installed then they worked their way to the last panel in the back. I was ignorant of this fact and started at the back so the front panel was quite difficult to install. It also has the compound bends in the corners which I found difficult to keep from breaking when I removed the original. All in all it is not a difficult job but the factory materials are quite fragile and replacements are not available through the aftermarket. I hope this helps and good luck! |
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Woody |
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worth their while to let you check cuz I'd buy two if they do ;) |
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Woody |
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Im just speculating but I believe the only thing different about the headliner area you are talking about is the actual height of the roof skin. Its taller on the burbs. The doors are the same except the door frame is squared at the rear on burbs. Wing windows, windshield all that stuff is the same. So maybe if its mounted via the perimeter it should work. Or if its partially glued to the roof you could make some spacers?
Show pics if you do it. |
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Woody |
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I did a google search of the board using "headliner" as the search category. Here are some pics. Quite a few in there of this molded headliner with the speakers. Maybe that would help you determine if they could possibly work in a burb.
https://www.google.com/search?sa=G&d...h=752&dpr=1.25 |
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Woody |
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