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Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
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Just thought I'd mention that I got my shifter linkage all set up today. I used the Kugel Component linkage. I had to cut the rod down to 19.25" (took me several tries to get the right length) and place it at the position farthest out on the trans link.
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Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
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I also gutted the interior of the truck. I ordered a new AAW wiring harness, so it will all be new. The PO really hacked the old wiring to pieces. It was dangerous.
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Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
:jdp: And todays lesson is how to take a beautiful perfectly good truck and make it even more cool and that much better boys and girls. Nice truck, great work on the swap, not sure how I missed this one
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Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
Kool swap... What kind of tranny shifting linkage are you using? You mentioned your engine is a 2008 meaning it has the displacement on demand feature, would there be any problems when reflashing your ECU? Would you still be able to use that feature for your swap without any problems?
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Very cool swap. Thanks for posting all the pics. I'll tag along for the ride!
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John and Speartech says that the DOD will function and is not an issue. He is making my harness and setting up the computer for me. |
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:ito:Bub, what are you using for gauges? I see in one of the pics. that you have ur instrument panel with new gauges.
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I still have my factory ones, I heard from someone that Dolphin was not a good choice, dont know about TPI, But willl shop at my candy store (summit)to see what they offer (summit has been my supplier for must of my goodies, exept for the headers) ! :ito:A.M. sounds good they've been in the Industry for decades ! |
Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
nice truck so far, I'm almost done with my restoration and 5.3 swap. heres what i did for my trans cooler. i haven't ran it yet to see if it works good or not but i always have the option of using the factory cooler in the rad and the frame rail cooler together.
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF3600.jpg |
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I dont really know for sure, But I think so. I plan on using a good synthetic trans fluid like Amsoil, it transfers heat better than others, but like i said, if I see it getting to hot, I can add a line straight up the frame rail to the rad cooler and that should take care of it.
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i think i used stock lines from a 73. you have to replace the fitting in the back of the 5.3 p/s pump to make those work
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/s...y/DSCF4197.jpg |
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Nice build, errhhh I meant update, :D.
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This is what I am doing for the fuel pressure gauge. Since I am running -6 AN for the fuel lines I put on a Russel P#670340 to screw a Summit 100psi gauge in to.
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Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
I also thought that I would mention that my hose shop couldn't get me the metric O-ring fitting for the power steering pump, but I found that Russel P#648060 is an adaptor that will make this into a -6 AN male fitting, which he could make a hose for.
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This is what I stumbled across for the valve cover breather line. You just drill a hole in your intake tube, insert the grommet and press in the elbow. Then I can just hook up the 3/8" breather line to it.
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When I posted pics of my ac compressor it was brought to my attention that I am going to have ac line clearance issues, so I notched the flared portion of the frame as seen here.
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This is what I have done for my oil pressure gauge. I drilled and tapped the oil cooler take-off cover for 1/8-28 NPT and screwed the sender right in.
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This is where I was told to put my water temp sender, but it is metric. Everyone said that it was 12mm, but nobody ever said the thread pitch (that I could find anyway), so I bought M12x1, but it was a bad guess. What you need is a M12x1.5 to 1/8"NPT adapter. This is Auto Meter part# ATM-2277. Hopefully all of these specifics will help someone else to not make the same mistakes I have.
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Great thread! I will be watching for sure!:mm:
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I am doing the edelbrock carb/MSD controller conversion. Q1: on the power steering, did you have the adapter/converter at the old steering box end, or at the new pump end of the hose? Q2: What kind of motor mount adapter did you use? The one I got does not allow my AC pump to be on. Q3: where is the water temp sensor? Is that the bolt right behind the header tube on the head? Im sure I will have other questions. Thanks again. |
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Q3: where is the water temp sensor? Is that the bolt right behind the header tube on the head?
Yes, the temp sensor goes right where that bolt sticking out is. I ended up buying a new 12mm sender from classic instruments, after spending days looking for a 12mm to 1/8 pipe adapter ( to the best of my knowledge there inst one)and/or a any OEM sender that would work. as far as the oil pressure sender I just hogged out a Stock one and tapped the inside to 1/8 pipe works great. |
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I have been doing the same swap into an 85 c10. Just wondering what your plans are for the engine harness?
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A2: I used the ECE mounting system. Look back at page 1 and you can see pics. The trans ECE X-member just bolted right into place too, with no drilling. A3: Yup, on the passenger side. |
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Awesome build..
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This was a major find for me. I couldn't figure out how to hook up the power brake booster hose from the 5.3 to the '67 booster, since the hose on the 5.3 is 1/2" and the '67 check valve port is 3/8". This is GM part# 15823207 and it fits right into the '67 booster. It even comes with a new grommet. SWEET!!!
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I also got this engine cover to dress it up a bit. I think it looks tough. It is GM part# 12625893.
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I am using the 2008 Silverado power cables. Seems like a nice setup, but I am having a hard time finding a battery. I am told that the 2008 battery is a deign all its own. Anyone tried hooking this up to an Optima Red Top? I was told it wouldn't work at Costco, but it looks like it would.
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Here are some pics of the AAW wiring kit being installed. I didn't know when I bought it, but you have to cut the firewall to fit the new firewall plug. The first 2 show the adhesive template that the kit comes with. I drilled the corners and then used a die grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut it out. The 3rd pic is with the plug installed. The 4th is of the harness being routed through the dash. The column plug doesn't match, so you have to push the pins out. I found that a 1/16" punch pushed right next to the pin will let it fall out of the old harness. The AAW instructions are some of the best I have seen and it walks you through the whole thing. The fifth pic shows the rear light harness. The grommet that it came with was too big for the hole in my dash, so I used a PCV grommet (Auto Zone HELP! products P#42062). It fit in the hole exactly and had a 1/2" ID, so the flex loom fit nice and snug inside of it. The last 2 pics are of my dash cluster wiring that also came in the AAW kit. I haven't got my tach yet, but it's wired for it already. The PO picked the carbon fiber...Not my favorite, but it will do for now. Some day I'd like to get the aluminum one.
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pics
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Covans, Nice I used a Covans as well. everything is looking good
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