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Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Well I couldnt find a new sending unit that wouldnt require a bunch of work to get a pickup tube into.
So I took the sending unit from the saddle tank and sandblasted it. Opened up the resistor on the side and it was completely filled with sediment and the sping and contactor were eaten up. So I took the float rod out of the sending unit from the main tank. Bent it to match empty and full in the saddle tank. Since it still had a good spring and contactor on the rod I got 0-90 ohms on a full sweep!!!! Then the side of the resistor kept coming off because the tabs dont like being bent out and back and one broke off. So I just tack welded the cover on. I took the saddle tank out to the truck and wired it to my stock gauge and it came up as empty!!! everything working!! now I gotta get bolts tomorrow from Home Depot to rehang the tank. I also need to figure out how im going to run the fuel line since the steel line is on the other side of the truck and I have to go across the drive shaft. anyway heres some pics for posterity. http://s17.postimg.org/kh6mi2ytn/IMG...145017_700.jpg http://s17.postimg.org/ptvgw7mq3/IMG...152625_829.jpg http://s17.postimg.org/5b0kr58sr/IMG...172658_784.jpg http://s17.postimg.org/vkq8nok3v/IMG...172710_855.jpg |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
I enjoyed reading your (not so boring) thread. I like C20 threads like this. Cool truck, you have made some good progress with it.
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Re: N00b with a 72 c20
cool thanks for stopping by!!
Today I ordered Wilwood D-52's in Black for the front. Drilled / slotted 8 lug rotors. SS Braided brake lines. And a new power booster/Master cylinder/Proportioning valve. Got it all from Scotts Hot Rod Shop. They were helpful in the presale process. Hopefully shipping etc goes as smoothly. Back on the gas tank... I ordered 14" carriage bolts to hold the tank up. I checked fastenal for SS, they wanted $53 each!!! I went with Zinc coated for $6... They wont be here until next monday so all my projects are on hold until then. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Tried again today to set the timing and find TDC. runs better but still crappy. backfires from time to time and has some runon when i shut it off.
On a good note I went to the junkyard on saturday and got one of those under hood retractable lamps from a later model chevy and a washer fluid bottle with the builtin pump. Found a fillerneck from a nissan I think. i pulled a few and now forget what the one I kept came out of. going to mount it between the truck box and bed instead of on the outside of the bed. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
I had a similar problem years ago, even took mine to a buddy who built race cars, he didn't fix the problem. The guy I sold the truck to found that the vacuum advance on the distributor was the problem with the one I had.
Other ideas? :hmm: |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Quote:
I adjusted it to 12 BTDC. its at 10 now. I think my timing notch in the balancer has slipped. I tried to reset TDC but the sticking a pen in the sparkhole trick didnt work. I have a hard time spinning it by hand by myself and trying to feel where TDC is with the pen/chopstick. Also it seemed like no matter where the piston is I can still stick the pen all the way into the cylinder. So probably I dont know what the heck im doing. I ordered a cool tool. TDC setter thing. Its screws into the sparkplug hole and has a rod with a spring on it. So as the cylinder goes up the rod will go up. and when it goes down the rod will go down. Amazon says it will be here today so hopefully I can get that to work and fix TDC, then retime it. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
well thanks to the forum I found my TDC mark was way off. no wonder it looked so off when i put the timing light on it originally and why it ran like crap when i set the timing "correctly" based on a bad mark...
So I tried the finger in the hole and a chopstick and a pen. Didn't work for me. SO I found this cool tool that threads in the sparkplug hole and has a rod with a spring on it so as the piston goes up and down the rod goes up and down and you can see whats happening. http://s4.postimg.org/n2ba38nrt/IMG_...163323_678.jpg Here it is at TDC. http://s4.postimg.org/6bvb05zyx/IMG_...163351_530.jpg Here it is at TDC and you can see the mark I made which is where the notch in the balancer is. WAaaaaaay off.... http://s4.postimg.org/s28qb6teh/IMG_...163424_532.jpg So I didnt have a fancy grease pen or any special paint or a timing tape. SO I rednecked it. Wrapped some paper towel around a screwdriver and hosed it down with spray paint. http://s4.postimg.org/6d58tl1sp/IMG_...163652_470.jpg I dabbed a little at the 0 mark with my "brush" http://s4.postimg.org/y4gd1ohuh/IMG_...164133_314.jpg then I scraped off my old mark and made a nice new one. Set the timing to 11 or 12 BTDC. Set the idle to 750. Dang thing runs like a top now!! |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
shifted better and obviously ran way better once I got the timing straighten out. But it still isnt right. If I'm at half throttle or more it wont shift out of 2cnd. Just keeps getting louder until I let off the gas.
I ordered a B&M adjustable vacuum modulator. Got under the truck and pulled it out. Dumped half a quart or more of tranny fluid all over the HOAs new asphalt... ooops. Put the new one in and left it at the default setting as far as the adjustable screw. Man it shifted nice and smooth after that through all gears at 1/4 throttle. I thought I was home free... thought to soon. took it up a long hill on a side road. first to second shift was fine. gave it some gas in second and it felt like it slipped badly and made a squealing noise kind of like a belt slipping but higher pitched. let off the gas and it caught and started pulling again. Gave it some gas again (hey I cant trust my first instinct). Slipped again. When I let off the gas after the slip it does shift to third and keeps going. So I'm assuming the new modulator is putting enough pressure in the tranny now that its highlighting the bad parts in the old girl.. ah bleh. so what now. new tranny? Rebuild this one. Go ahead with the 200r4 conversion? always something to work on, but thats why I got it. oh i mean to go get stuff from home depot for the wife ;) |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
removed everything from the transmission but ran out of time before I got to the bell housing bolts.
While I was under there I found this. Anything look funny? http://s11.postimg.org/8a53ekw27/IMG...161714_597.jpg steps I took: -Remove vacuum modulator hose and retaining bolt. -drain as much fluid as possible out the modulator hole. -Drop the pan and remove the rest of the fluid. I still hate GM for not putting a drain plug on the pan. 1/2" socket -Remove speedometer cable. Just took a light squeeze with pliars to get it loose enough to hand loosen. -Remove torque convertor cover - 7/16" socket - remove torque convertor to flexplate bolts. 9/16" socket. I used my hands and the crank bolt to spin the motor to get to them. I used a screwdriver and a pair of pliars making sure not to touch the teeth on the flexplate to hold it while breaking the TC bolts free with breaker bar. - remove transmission cooler lines. compression fitting. i used a 1/2" flare nut wrench. - remove transmission power plug thingy on the side. just pulls out. - remove ubolts things from differntial yoke to remove rear drive shaft. - remove carrier bearing and remove front shaft. i wanna say that was a 5/8" nut with a 11/16" bolt head on top. dont spend 10 minutes spinning the nut for no reason... - remove shift linkage. I made sure to put all the bolts back where they came from so I dont lose them. except the TC bolts until i get it dropped. Thats as far as I got today. I also built a tray for the jack. http://s11.postimg.org/sg8ldgrpr/IMG...220953_580.jpg http://s11.postimg.org/3yghpkp5b/IMG...221010_964.jpg its not very steady side to side but it will be fine when there are 2 of us guiding it down. Hopefully get it pulled tomorrow. and to the rebuild shop on monday. then back in next weekend. Hopefully by then my new drilled/slotted rotors from scotts hotrod will be here. But it looks like I need to get to the suspension work sooner rather than later. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Note to self; there's a reason they say to put the front on jack stands. Its really annoying when you drop the tranny and find it wont come out from under the truck...
I found they went ahead and skipped one of the top bellhousing bolts. the passenger side of the crossmember didnt have any of the top bolts and the bottoms werent even tight. I had to unhook the ebrake cable to be able to move the cross member back with a BFH. But shes out and in the back of my buddy's truck to go to the tranny guy tomorrow. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
got the tranny back yesterday. During the week I got the TC cover, dipstick, drive shafts, and shift linkage painted.
http://s10.postimg.org/ydy8wnxqd/IMG...163348_423.jpg http://s10.postimg.org/usxrzp3t1/IMG...163358_816.jpg I also put every nut and bolt through my wirewheel to clean out the threads. The ones that were to beat up I replaced with new grade 8. I climbed under today and cleaned off the cross member, wiped down the speedo cable and the wires so it wont be to much of a greasy mess when I go to install it. I found the kickdown (transmission control switch) cable was cut through the sheath so I cut and spliced it. I got a new kickdown switch from the chevy dealer and installed it today. My tranny mount was broken. None of the parts places had one but they did have this poly performace one that looks like it will work just fine except my bolts for some reason are to long. I dont really understand why because the OE mount looks like its about the same width and I dont rememeber having 50 washers on it when I took it off. http://s10.postimg.org/etf4g57r9/IMG...163337_846.jpg http://s10.postimg.org/exdja52md/IMG...163415_736.jpg You can also see one of the burnt clutches. I took one with me out of the big box of stuff they took out of the tranny before rebuilding. I got some SUV jackstands this week and made my diy tranny lift a little taller. I was almost to short to lift it enough when i took it out. Tomorrow my buddy is going to come up and help me put it in. I was going to do it myself today but to be honest I dont think I can get it out of my car by myself. I dont have a lift of any kind. And even a block and tackle wouldnt work because of my hatchback. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Got the new transmission in and drove around the parking lot. seemed to shift ok so looks like i did it right. took 11 and half quarts of fluid and I think its still a little low. It was getting dark and i was tired so didnt take it on the road. No leaks. All the bolts went back in...
I ended up taking the hump off so I could see better to line up the holes. Breaking that seam sealer free was a real pain but now that its off theres one more thing I can scrape and paint!! Hopefully my engine and transmission woes are over and its on to brakes. Got the wilwoods. Need to pickup rotors and a new MC/powerbooster. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
I replaced the turn signal switch today. Not easy but it wasnt to bad.
Need to get a new bearing for the steering column sometime. http://s12.postimg.org/xyh9vc8wp/IMG...170704_233.jpg http://s12.postimg.org/5mvpyap09/IMG...181925_332.jpg http://s12.postimg.org/t2dn3n8rd/IMG...181928_926.jpg sortof got the horn working by leaving the center cap which had no springs off. now I can press the horn doughnut and it works. hehe. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
was just looking through the service manual for some other stuff and stumbled on the correct term for that bad bearing.
34. Steering Shaft Upper Bearing section 9-12 of the service manual. the plastic thing is the 40. Plastic Thrust Washer |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Front brakes got a facelift this weekend.
installed wilwood D-52's, new CPP Master cylinder/Booster/Proportioning valve, drilled slotted rotors, and stainless steel brake lines. http://s7.postimg.org/cxmn2nmw7/IMG_...165250_042.jpg painted the hub part that shows through the wheel with some VHT flat black. http://s7.postimg.org/gv9ws29pj/IMG_...125642_841.jpg http://s7.postimg.org/iw0gcw5uv/IMG_...125657_824.jpg Looking nice!! Got a little stumped on the new caliper. The D-52s are dual piston. The old ones are single piston. The old pads had a clip on the back to hold them into the piston and keep the inner pad from falling out. http://s7.postimg.org/ug0or6pif/IMG_...125835_354.jpg new pads didnt have a clip or any way to hold the pad from falling out. got pissed and yelled and called scotts and wilwood. no answer. Googled. nothing. Finally I held them in by hand and realized the caliper bolts actually hold the pad from falling down. Doh!! http://s7.postimg.org/rfjuane7b/IMG_...125801_481.jpg The new stainless lines gave me a bit of a stump for a minute as well. Theres a hex shaped clip that holds the brake line where it joins to the hardline. http://s7.postimg.org/rw51x31yf/IMG_...141231_419.jpg A clip goes on the back of that and holds the line in place. The adapter I got with the lines didnt quite fit until I ground down one of the edges. http://s7.postimg.org/q85wifo2v/IMG_...141308_337.jpg Also for the drivers side I had to go to pep boys and get an 3/16 - 1/4 adapter. The size of the line is different for some reason. Thankfully they had one. Bench bled the M/C. Note to self. if the porp valve is attached you need to run the recirc lines out of the valve and not out of the side fo the M/C. when fluid started pouring out the valve I realized what I did. http://s7.postimg.org/noa9oc0iv/IMG_...151215_264.jpg http://s7.postimg.org/itl63srl3/IMG_...184618_508.jpg installed and buttoned up. Bled the fronts and the backs but the brakes still feel spongy. Going to try to adjust the brake pedal a little and rebleed the rears. It was getting close to margarita-thirty. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Did the rear brakes. shoes, cylinders, hardware kit. blasted and painted the other parts.
Tightened up the ebrake. http://s23.postimg.org/wpx2eeoon/IMG...013124_748.jpg http://s23.postimg.org/yyb8vqvsn/IMG...121106_617.jpg http://s23.postimg.org/mkyeou647/IMG...121117_499.jpg http://s23.postimg.org/glanl6lbr/IMG...171912_820.jpg http://s23.postimg.org/kixxal853/IMG...171920_943.jpg |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
http://s7.postimg.org/k6ktswtk7/IMG_...173033_789.jpg
http://s7.postimg.org/j6z4ay3s7/IMG_...181939_335.jpg http://s7.postimg.org/x1xetey7b/IMG_...182005_998.jpg http://s7.postimg.org/ulvlfkg4n/IMG_...011932_880.jpg http://s7.postimg.org/qqs7czwyv/IMG_...013124_748.jpg http://s7.postimg.org/tm5ajv0yv/IMG_...124619_307.jpg You have to pull the rear axles to remove the drum/hub to do the brakes. some more pics of that so i didnt get lost. http://s7.postimg.org/e1xwtbquf/IMG_...171447_293.jpg http://s7.postimg.org/vgi51lnzb/IMG_...171530_708.jpg http://s7.postimg.org/59gy5n5pj/IMG_...171553_779.jpg http://s7.postimg.org/e769gqnjb/IMG_...171607_444.jpg Fixed the shift indicator. Got a new CPP shift linkage. Had to only give it a slight bend to bend to fit. Well that and many hours of trying and trying different angles. it was a real pita but i finally got it. looks like its on to suspention next. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
since I had the hump out I decided to paint it before putting it back in. its so hot and loud without it!!
I used por-15 on the bottom side. Selfetching primer and then highbuild primer on the top. Just testing out the highbuild. (its not sprayon coverup thats for sure.) I took the hump to bare metal so needed to cover it until I als liner the interior. they said to just prime it for now and then scuff and line when ready. I painted my bolts hammered black. The por-15 is kind of a nightmare. it has to be used fast. I used a crappy brush and went to thick and it shows... It does seem to self level well. so well if what you are doing is slanted the paint runs. Ill use a sponge brush next time i think. Ive decided on a color scheme. all chassis parts and anything on the underside I can get to will be por-15. Anything in the engine and any bolts/nuts will be Hammered black. anything on the interior will be either Grey Al's liner or Grey Hammered http://s21.postimg.org/6phvy51ar/IMG...231706_179.jpg http://s21.postimg.org/aptmo4h5f/IMG...240154_938.jpg http://s21.postimg.org/x31daxi37/IMG...240201_089.jpg http://s21.postimg.org/qa10enr9v/IMG...240313_314.jpg http://s21.postimg.org/gbg1s6hub/IMG...240323_882.jpg |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
also got a new jack ill show off ;) nothing special but its rebuildable, 3ton, and goes to 5"-23"
http://s24.postimg.org/dt0br2i8x/IMG...240431_591.jpg http://s24.postimg.org/vx7xpg5b5/IMG...240442_509.jpg |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
next up is front suspension.
heres the part list of Moog stuff. plus some ac delco springs. couldnt find a moog spring number . I also need to add shims and shocks and bushings for the sway bar. Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve MOOG Part # ES2004S Front $8.65 Tie Rod End MOOG Part # ES409RT Problem Solver Front Outer; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces $14.77 MOOG Part # ES409LT Problem Solver Front Inner; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces $14.97 Idler Arm MOOG Part # K6096T Problem Solver Front; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces $22.79 Ball Joint MOOG Part # K6122 Problem Solver Front Upper; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces $30.79 MOOG Part # K6129T Problem Solver Front Lower; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces $33.79 Pitman Arm MOOG Part # K6131 Problem Solver Front; Power steering; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces $48.79 Control Arm Shaft Kit MOOG Part # K6147 Control Arm Shaft Problem Solver Front Lower $26.79 MOOG Part # K6135 Control Arm Shaft Front Upper; Standard Design $24.89 Coil Spring ACDELCO Part # 45H3075 {#88913836} Sold In Pairs SPRING SET,RR -; HEAVY DUTY, VARIABLE RATE |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
i dont like not being able to edit my posts...
anyway I think this is all the stuff I need except the shims which I think ill be able to use the old ones anyway. Ill just sandblast and paint them. I havent been able to find complete control arms that arent made in china. moog and raybestos dont seem to list them so I went with the replacement arms instead. If anybody has a lead on full UCA/LCA prefereably with the balljoint already installed let me know. I also need the bumpers for the control arms. I dont want to reuse the old ones. LMC was backordered so I checked brothers. Brothers has them but shipping is almost as much as the part so I think ill just go out there. its only about 30 minutes from me. http://s18.postimg.org/8m0af0qk5/Capture.jpg |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
put the high hump back in today. Its soooo much quieter in the cab now. You dont hear every tick and groan of the engine and tranny.
I used some wetherstrip stuff I got at home depot a while ago for another project. Seemed to work fine and will be removeable when im ready for real paint and seamsealer. http://s16.postimg.org/glwksudm9/IMG...161118_208.jpg I shot the area on the floor where the old sealer was with some primer just to keep the baremetal from rusting. http://s16.postimg.org/g6laztrox/IMG...161127_844.jpg fit back in place with my shiny bolts. http://s16.postimg.org/s5wt74x9t/IMG...163855_590.jpg http://s16.postimg.org/x8e51x6k1/IMG...163948_094.jpg http://s16.postimg.org/qfds5nfqp/IMG...163954_513.jpg |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
new toys. everything except the shocks are made in usa. at least thats what the box says. no stamps of origin on any of the parts i noticed.
I makred the boxes so hopefully i dont get confused during install. http://s17.postimg.org/4xe4rmgqz/IMG...225703_416.jpg http://s17.postimg.org/499vmf7ez/IMG...225719_363.jpg everything unboxed to get ready for cleaning and paint. http://s17.postimg.org/vxwitxuff/IMG...231336_645.jpg Springs are shiny and painted already. http://s17.postimg.org/b9ta1gjt7/IMG...231349_911.jpg I didnt pay list but it was more than rockauto. I dont mind on this one. gives some cash to local business and with suspension stuff I didnt want to mess with shipping etc. http://s1.postimg.org/ge327jnbv/IMG_...234221_886.jpg while amazoning i accidentally bought the cheapest POS tach i could find. $30. I just want to know if the engine is going to blow up. http://s1.postimg.org/ng0ztqqxn/IMG_...231410_314.jpg now to get on removing the old stuff!! :metal: |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
got a little behind painting the new stuff with por-15 but it all came out pretty nice and shiny. I got discouraged on taking everything apart and instead went to buffalo wild wings and got hammered and watched the UFC fight. feel terrible today.
I did get a bunch of pics of the old stuff to help me remember where everything goes back in. http://s16.postimg.org/3ugh5glkx/IMG...171230_694.jpghttp://s16.postimg.org/lbp6ebbr5/IMG...171239_491.jpg Unfortunately going to have to grind off the ball joint rivets.. http://s16.postimg.org/n3djvh5q9/IMG...171253_645.jpg http://s16.postimg.org/kbua4v77l/IMG...171258_202.jpg http://s16.postimg.org/g3zhw45s1/IMG...171301_994.jpg http://s16.postimg.org/jovdfcabl/IMG...171309_791.jpg http://s16.postimg.org/mk8gm7ebl/IMG...171315_826.jpg http://s16.postimg.org/s9op6ikht/IMG...171323_059.jpg http://s16.postimg.org/xcamf1j5t/IMG...171330_089.jpg http://s16.postimg.org/sozyzj6f5/IMG...171347_754.jpg http://s16.postimg.org/y4dae8ncx/IMG...171353_048.jpg Some shots of the new stuff all painted http://s18.postimg.org/ein5yr8c5/IMG...100155_149.jpg I did manage to get the swaybar out and clean and paint it. I sandblasted the brackets and painted them as well. they were pretty crusty. I also took the other inner fender out so I have a clear view from the top of both sides of the suspension. http://s18.postimg.org/voeeuui2d/IMG...185410_552.jpg so the new plan of attack after lieing under the truck hemming and hawing and pondering how im going to do this in a parking lot: friday: put the whole front end on jack stands. I was going to try to do one side at a time. but after looking at it I want to take the center link out and paint it so I might as well take out everything. Including the rotors I just put on... And the calipers I need to find a way to tie them up out of the way. start taking everything apart. I think if I get lucky I can have it apart friday. If not Ill plan on half day saturday as well. saturday: finish disassembly. scrape, blast, wirewheel the centerlink, upper and lower control arms and anything else that comes out and has to go back in. POR-15 them. sunday: put it back together at least well enough to move it back into a parking place, but hopefully complete it. monday or tuesday: have it aligned. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
put the tach in today. zip ties in all their glory. Need to find an easy spot to tie in to the cluster lights.
http://s24.postimg.org/dw3vdwrlt/IMG...163528_952.jpg |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
took 45 minutes to put all the zirc fittings in the new suspension stuff. Went ahead and got that out of the way.
getting all my work done so I can take friday off and get this suspension ripped out. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Safety first!
http://s4.postimg.org/obkivr7zd/IMG_...143012_163.jpg http://s4.postimg.org/uqjjsfep5/IMG_...143021_437.jpg Kind of crusty under there. http://s15.postimg.org/5dsd0o387/IMG...143729_441.jpg http://s15.postimg.org/76v9ozoev/IMG...143738_344.jpg http://s15.postimg.org/e7j9hrq6v/IMG...160253_844.jpg http://s15.postimg.org/ebd2y0vo7/IMG...160302_064.jpg http://s15.postimg.org/5udkn3qzb/IMG...160308_491.jpg Guess I had a broken spring in there!!! http://s21.postimg.org/3nx2nrppf/IMG...181522_526.jpg http://s21.postimg.org/63yw1m7s3/IMG...181530_365.jpg It got dark before I got any more pics but I ended up getting almost everything out without a whole lot of problems. Tommorrow ill get more pics and get to cleaning and painting everything I took out thats not getting replaced. And finish up removing the few last things. Going well so far, not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. Started badly. I thought it was going to be an omen but Im not superstitious... Dang battery was dead when I went out. I hooked back up the new tach and electric choke the other day and must have chosen a constant hot line instead of switched... doh!! long jump before it would start but it fired! after that everything was pretty smooth. back tomorrow with more details. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Good luck today!
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Re: N00b with a 72 c20
im a little behind. it took an acto of god to get those top balljoints out of the control arms. Lowers came right out with the press from autozone.
beat, heat, drill, air hammer, big hammer, chisel. It sucked but they finally came out. Probably spent a good hour on each one. http://s22.postimg.org/5d6o3197x/IMG...164017_149.jpg http://s22.postimg.org/ec1btt3hp/IMG...164023_023.jpg Also my air compressor really sucks. sand blasting is 3 minutes on 5 minutes off. Compressor was getting hot enough to cook eggs on. Put in the new steering box. Could not get a new rag joint which sucks but Ill order one and replace it asap. I wanted to do the steering gear now so I didnt have to pull the pitman arm off the old or later on have to pull it off again to change gear boxes. stuff ready to be blasted. I used my big angle grinder with a gnarley wire wheel to take off the big stuff. Huge nasty grimy mess in the shop now. http://s18.postimg.org/t6yue6n8l/IMG...164029_875.jpg http://s18.postimg.org/aq4fnd7ad/IMG...202314_888.jpg so tomorrow more blasting... Then paint. Im on the fence about POR-15 since im short on time and its kind of a pain to put on so I may just hit all this stuff with hammered black rustomleum. well see what happens tomorrow. I doubt I get it put back together tomorrow so hoepfully the property managers dont harrass me on monday. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
good progress!
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Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Many hours of scraping and blasting.
http://s15.postimg.org/4z5he4u4n/IMG...214938_747.jpg http://s15.postimg.org/cdq7srqmf/IMG...214948_307.jpg I would have gone and bought a new compressor today but my electrician couldnt get over to run me a 220 for it so I just slogged through 2minutes on 5 minutes off with mine. Never showed off my new vice. But god look at the mess on my floor. I hope to not do any more suspension work for a long time. its crazy how stuck on that dirt and grime is. http://s21.postimg.org/l2dtddqkj/IMG...215022_464.jpg Put it all back together tomorrow. Only a day behind schedule ;) |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
man that was a nightmare. Started friday around 1 and just finished.
http://s21.postimg.org/t4e9m1vpv/IMG...164419_952.jpg so ready to get away I didnt even get a picture of all the tierods and drag link installed. If you have a place to do it and can go off and on when you feel like it I might try this again. Ill never do it in a parking lot waiting for the property managers to harrass me though. The upper ball joints were a real nightmare. banged, cut, heated, air chisel and beat it some more before they finally came out of the control arms. Bottoms weren't bad at all with the rented press. My compressor sucks so it was a minute hear and a minute there blasting all the spindles and control arms. took forever. any hoo I still have to take it to the alignment shop because it turns farther to the right than the left and it drags a wheel on a tight turn. just from driving in the parking lot its 100x more responsive and stable now though. feels like a new truck. I put in a new steering gear box as well. http://s11.postimg.org/sd3jtcyq7/IMG...164425_877.jpg |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Got a new rearview mirror from amazon. I think its a little small for my taste in actual use; but it looks cool. I wanted to let the glue set for a day before messing with the adjustment to much.
http://s8.postimg.org/7vok5upwh/IMG_...191652_563.jpg |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Stupid rear view fell off the window. Maybe a glass mount was a bad idea in the california sun. Ill try some different glue and leave the tab on the window for a day before actually hanging the mirror on it next time. I cleaned the window really well before gluing but....
I got a Dorman 31015 Steering coupler (rag joint). Went to swap it out and it doesnt fit. grumble. Fortunately I suspected this would be a pain and had already ordered a Dorman 31011 which should be here monday. If that one doesnt fit im screwed and out of ideas. just some random rag joint pictures to help me put it back together when the correct part comes. http://s13.postimg.org/6yq317fxv/IMG...155944_955.jpg http://s13.postimg.org/5kyg5wgoj/IMG...155956_185.jpg http://s13.postimg.org/9rjal8gab/IMG...160003_773.jpg http://s13.postimg.org/u2qjtsj8z/IMG...160553_412.jpg There is a groan in the steering that is bugging me but its not constant. I think its coming from the column itself but its hard to track down by myself. Project for this weekend I think. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
replaced that upper shock mount today.
well it wasnt hard but it was kind of scary. The gas tank is a saddle tank on that side. And theres lots of sparks. started here: http://s22.postimg.org/ds0ybchq5/IMG...155827_646.jpg cut that sucker off with the cutoff tool: http://s24.postimg.org/8wgm5j1c1/IMG...161005_871.jpg Double security with goggles and face shield cause im a wuss. I was blind after that picture for a few minutes. flash doh!! http://s10.postimg.org/3wwq58005/IMG...161019_967.jpg Drilled it out with a step bit. I really should have ground that down but I was just waiting for the gas tank to explode and the shock fit without twisting... http://s24.postimg.org/k2fik80w1/IMG...164210_940.jpg keep away the rust http://s2.postimg.org/ytxji37wl/IMG_...164241_884.jpg Done. Only took me 4 hours. Im really slow... http://s17.postimg.org/5e4fynafv/IMG...164654_419.jpg http://s17.postimg.org/ezy0ey1ln/IMG...171814_498.jpg truck feels nice and stable now! :metal: |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Changed my rag joint (steering coupler) today. Dorman 31015. Didnt fit at first so I gave up and waited till the new one came 31011, which is actually for manual steering. Well that one was even farther off.
SO I stuck the 31015 in a vice and opened it up some where the splines are. It then slipped right on. Steering doesnt feel any different and I still have this weird grumble when turning. I think I narrowed it down to something in the column itself. You cant hear the grind when under the hood. steering column bearings are next on the list I guess. |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
good work man keep it up.. I have a 70 C 20 I'm bring back myself.
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Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Today I pulled off the back wheels and did a little cosmetic work with a wirewheel and some hammered black paint.
Need to get it cleaned up because you will be able to see through my new wheels and I didnt want to see all the rust. started with http://s18.postimg.org/t8l04lifp/IMG...172808_429.jpg ended with http://s8.postimg.org/4jgdy061d/IMG_...174023_630.jpg also had to readjust my neutral safety switch as well. I assume it got whacky when I messing with the shifter. All better now. starts only in N and P and the lights come on in R :metal: |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
Ordered wheels and tires today. AE Series 018 Matte Black and milled.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/p...ictureid=18058 Cooper LTZ 275/60/20 and 275/65/20 we are going to test both and see which i like better. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/p...ictureid=18059 Then I pulled out my power steering pump which squeals on lock and looks like its because the pulley wobbles. I suspect the bearing is bad so going to swap it. I rented a couple pulley pullers from oreillys so I can get it off and back on the new one. getting it ready to sandblast the brackets. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/p...ictureid=18057 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/p...ictureid=18056 |
Re: N00b with a 72 c20
got my brackets blasted today and ordered a new pump and pressure line. I bought a new cap for the pump as well.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/p...ictureid=18062 ill paint them tonight and put in the pump tomorrow. |
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