Re: NJ Suburban
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3 cans of Gunk to remove all the built up crud on the engine and transmission. Looks like I need a replacement trans/transfer case cross member. Are they tough to find?
Tomorrow I'm going to pull off and save the exhaust system, start wire brushing and remove the body supports that need replacing. Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
Paul,
If it is the same as the Blazers I am pretty sure I have one here that is in decent shape. it was a turbo350/205 setup that was in it. Richard |
Re: NJ Suburban
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Thanks Richard. Can anyone confirm that it is the same as what I'm running? How do I identify what transmission and transfer case I have?
Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
that is a 4 speed sm465 with an np205 transfer case. so its a 465/205 combo were a 350 205 was a turbo 350 auto with a 205 case
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Re: NJ Suburban
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Thanks for the info. Did they make different 4 speed trannys for the trucks? With this combo, 1st was always a low or crawler gear and I always started out in 2nd. With my 68 2wd burb, it started in 1st, 2nd was too steep and required me to slip the clutch too much. Oh, I saved the entire roof of the burb I scrapped if you want some of the sheet metal. Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
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Cut the rear frame portion from the 68 today in the pouring rain so I can repair the rear section of the 70.
Any recommendations on welding this on? I was thinking of the following steps: 1) remove the rear shackle mount 2) make wood braces under the existing frame in 3 or 4 locations to orient the frame where the X's are. 3) cut the original frame and replacement frame at the same point. 4) butt weld inside and out 5) use my extra steel to fish plate inside the frame 6) re drill the shackle mount and bolt back into place with grade 8 fasteners. Any suggestions? Should I post this on the truck section or someplace else? Thanks Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
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Spent the last week removing all the bolt on hardware from the frame. It is all leveled and ready for frame repair.
Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
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That sounds like it will work. I would cut the side rails on a 45º angle instead of straight down though.... LockDoc |
Re: NJ Suburban
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Right side done except for reinforcing plate and left side almost ready for welding.
Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
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Both sides are done! Now on to removing the engine, transmission and transfer case and get the frame ready for paint. Didn't add a reinforcing plate to the right side and not sure I will. The heavy steel homemade hitch plate that bolts on should act as enough reinforcement. Had trouble welding the left side reinforcing plate on the upper inside. None of my grinders would reach the inner corner of the frame for clean metal to weld. Once the drivetrain is removed maybe I'll try a different wheel on my 7" grinder, tilt the frame up and re weld that part.
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Re: NJ Suburban
Nice work!
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Re: NJ Suburban
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Been a while since the last update. Wasn't going to pull the motor and trans originally but the right way was to get down to the bare frame as much as possible. Kinda weird how parts of the frame were rusted completely through and other parts still had the original primer (light grey) and original black paint. I've ordered up a new double roller timing chain and will get rid of the one with the plastic teeth. Some days I work on the frame and others I work on getting the motor ready for paint. Any recommendations on engine paint? I've used DupliColor in the past. I'm going with the original Chevy orange.
Paul |
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Re: NJ Suburban
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Been busy the last few weeks. Got the frame finished up after re-welding one of the reinforcing plates and using the die grinder with a wire brush. The KBS paint went on and is finished even after the screw up with 6 cans of the top coat "Blacktop" being bad. KBS did overnight 6 more cans and a couple cans of primer to replace the bad stuff.
Got brave and rebuilt the power steering box. There are some great websites out there with step by step instructions. Only problems I had was 1) getting the darn thing apart. and 2) having to redo the teflon seals. Either the seals were bad in the first rebuild kit I got or I stretched them out too much when I put them on. The kits are only 22 bucks at Autozone though. Now I'm sandblasting parts for paint. I don't have enough cash saved up to buy the next step, rebuilding the brake system. Any one know of links to the correct colors to paint under hood items? Steering box, pitman arm, power steering pump and brackets? Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
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A couple more of the clean up process.
Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
great progress see you this week
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Re: NJ Suburban
Got then new brakes on. New shoes, springs and had the drums cut. Next up is the brake lines.
Can say for certain that the rear parking/emergency brake lines listed in the LMC catalog are a perfect match to the originals. Kinda screwy listing. They list only one rear cable for all 4WD trucks with Jimmy/Blazer listed in the notes. Now I realize that they don't carry a 4WD front cable. I'll post more pics when I get the lines done. Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
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Engine painted and ready to re-install: check!
Brake lines done: check! The nickel copper brake line may be expensive but it is very easy to work with. It would have been tough to make the bends I made with regular steel and with stainless it would have been impossible. The rear line was on it's way to being one piece from axle to master cylinder until I tripped over a box and kinked it with one bend to go. I must have looked at 30 pictures of correct brake line routing when I just gave up and decided to do it the way I thought looked best. Hopefully in the next few weeks I can get the engine trans/transfer case back in and the fuel tank treated with one of the tank preps out there. Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
Paul,
Looking good and starting to take shape. You will be done in no time. Richard |
Re: NJ Suburban
love the V covers engine looks great
jz |
Re: NJ Suburban
Engine looks purty! Did you paint the manifolds yourself or are they coated? If you did paint, what did you use? Thanks! Keep on truckin'!
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Re: NJ Suburban
Chewie I used KBS high temp paint on the manifolds. You can still see the brush strokes but the instructions say they will come out during the first heat/run cycle.
Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
Refilled both rears, trans and transfer case with gear oil. Close to 3 gallons of oil. Also scored a set of really nice fenders from a local board member via Craigslist. Robin you have to post some pics of all the work you have done on that truck!
Cant wait to finish up the frame and get some work done on the body this winter. Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
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Finally got the frame done and stored in a friend's garage for the winter. Can't wait to start bringing home body parts to work on over the winter.
Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
Looking real nice!!!
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Re: NJ Suburban
Thanks Richard!
Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
That chassis came out nice! looks really good.
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Re: NJ Suburban
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Thanks! I'm still dragging home the fenders and doors to see which ones I want to repair and which I'll sell off. I do small engine repair on the side and I've been swamped with leaf blowers and am starting to get a lot of snowblowers now too. On one hand the cash is nice so I can start buying paint and body supplies but on the other hand I don't have too much free time! Anyone know what gaskets/seals are irreplaceable on the doors or can I buy replacements for pretty much everything? I'm going with rear barn doors. Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
did you get the body up to the house yet i picked up those SWB fleetsides from Robin, nice Kid, if weather was better today i come up with the Cheyenne:) headed to AZ next week need anything ill ask about the Gaskets Tom sells prescion stuff
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Re: NJ Suburban
I've got doors and fenders piled up in the garage but that is it. Been overwhelmed with small engine repair.
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Re: NJ Suburban
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Body work has begun! Had my one good barn door and a front fender sandblasted. Welded the trim holes up before priming with epoxy primer.
Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
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Welded closed all the trim holes in the fender and the GMC badge holes in one cargo door. I never used to like doing body work but find it to be relaxing now. Put on two coats of PPG 940 primer. Wen I get the money I'll get two more parts sandblasted.
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Re: NJ Suburban
looking good
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Re: NJ Suburban
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Looking good Paul. Once you get the body work all done it should go together pretty quick. LockDoc |
Re: NJ Suburban
Looking good Paul. Never thought to ask you if the cross member that I sent was the right one.
Richard |
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Oh yes! It bolted right up after I cleaned it up. |
Re: NJ Suburban
Leon the body work is going to take a while mostly because of funds. My small engine work falls off in the winter and my cash flow is greatly reduced!
I need to order a set of long adjustable sanding blocks. Man are they expensive! Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
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I can imagine. I just bought a decent set of semi rigid blocks and the price of those will make your toes curl.... LockDoc |
Re: NJ Suburban
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Well can't believe it has been 4 months since the last update. Also can't believe it has been that long since I've done any work. My regular 9-5 has been busy and my small engine repair sideline is really taking off.
I'm getting ready to send the next two panels to the sandblaster soon. The hole are all closed up on the front fender and now I'm working on one of the rear barn doors. First off there is some rust through on the inside lip and some bubbles on the outside. Is it possible to use a side door lower patch panel to fix the area or will I have to make the parts? The other issue is that it is covered with dent on the inside. The door is going to weigh 100 pounds with all the bondo to level them out. Any suggestions on how to get these dents out without pulling off the entire outer skin? Paul |
Re: NJ Suburban
well good to hear your back at it......
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