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Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Thanks Don! I am enjoying the hell out of it already!
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Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Truck is looking kool.
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Several days in and no "major" issues. But.... ;)
So on Sunday I buttoned up all the little details and was driving around making sure all was well for the daily commute this week. My friend and I heard something in the heater fan when I turned a corner and I immediately chalked it up to one of the balancing wieghts on the fan blades. I figured one had came off and it had settled to the bottom after being thrown out of the fan blades.
Fast forward to yesterday morning and 2/3 of the way through my commute: I turned a corner and heard the noise again but louder and more concerning this time.... Then, I hit a bump and WHAM! big clank and no heater! Yeah, it was the bracket that holds the heater core in place. :dohh: So at lunch time I went out and pulled the cover to find this of course! Fortunately it didnt damage the fan blades enough to cause any balance issues. :) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...118_120726.jpg |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Always something! lol! But this kinda made me chuckle. :mm: Least nothing broke...Even the heaters a rock solid. :lol:
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A week in and rollin' along!
Well, Its made it through the first week of daily commute with the only falter being the previously mentioned heater problem. :metal:
So now I have a list of minor things to do and just for the sake of keeping track of the build Ill list them out. This weekend -Choke (May need new one) -Exhaust (finish pipe to under the steps) -Gas tank filler hose (Just a replacement to reduce the smell with full tank) -Hook up tach -Door bumpers -Gauges -Battery tie down -Mirrors -Door pins -Door seals -window felts -Fender alignment (hitting passenger fender when opening) -Door alignment (top of drivers door needs to come inward to meet seal) Less important stuff -Paint inside cab -White walls -Radio -Paint * -Tune up -Trans tail shaft seal -Crank case vent hose (direct it somewhere) |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Looks like a fun list… glad the blower fan held up to the sudden stop...:uhmk:
…and just a thought about the door checks… once you get the fender alignment sorted out, inspect your door checks and if they are in need of repair or replacing, the Jeep Cherokee door checks are a easy direct bolt-in… Grand Cherokee ones are different but the Cherokee ones work great, I picked up some from a nearby pick-n-pull for $5… :metal: Enjoy your weekend!!!:bann: |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Managed to knock a few things off the list!
Still to do -Hook up tach -Gauges -Door pins -Door seals Less important stuff -Paint inside cab -White walls -Radio -Paint * -Tune up -Trans tail shaft seal -Crank case vent hose (direct it somewhere) |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Been a bit since I have updated.
Basically I have been driving the wheels off this rig! Been driving it as my daily for a good little bit now, and haven't had any major issues at all! Where it stands now, is what you see in the pics. I could not stand that yellow, green, black thing I had going on. With all of the sheet metal work still in store I didn't want to shoot it with any thing that cost me much. So here she is all rattle canned up, in what will most likely be the final colors eventually. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...104_133609.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y...104_133539.jpg On the way out for a few evening pics. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...101_165823.jpg My ladies together! :) https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...101_171043.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...101_122055.jpg |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Rattle can job looks good.
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Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Quote:
The pics of both cars together looks good, but this may be a favourite. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y...104_133539.jpg |
Drivin' the crap out of it!
Figured it was about time for an update. :)
Overall I have just been driving the crap outta the poor thing. I drive it daily to work at just shy of 40 miles a day. Been doing that for couple months now with no major issues fortunately. Recently I got a lead on a 71 rear end with 3.07 gears and went out to pick it up. I have realized I let the desire to get the correct gears (as a whole differential) get the best of me. The rear I picked up, while having the correct gears, needs a LOT of work to be road worthy. It had sat for years with no Yoke on it and the snout pointed upward and the differential collecting water. There was enough gear oil coating things to not let the rust destroy it, but needless to say everything need to be gone through to be reliable. For the cost and effort there, I can have another set of gears installed in the rear thats currently in the truck..... Soooo.... As for the latest work on the truck, it would be a full exhaust system! Just like the rest of this build, the exhaust is no exception to a tight budget. Purchased parts in the list below and there is of course some story to why the cost went a little nutty at the end! LOL Parts: $89.00 Block Hugger Headers from EBAY $68.00 PAIR of knock-off Flowmaster mufflers $200.00 to run the 2-1/2" pipe from collectors-mufflers-just under the steps. $140.00 (in trade for some fabrication work) NASCAR "Boom Tube" Tips $60.00 MSD ignition wire set (also in trade fro fabrication work) So the story goes like this. When I built the previous exhaust system it was from the bit and pcs that were on the truck when I got it. I scabbed it together and it didnt sound bad at first, but then it quickly showed its age and began to deteriorate. The hangers that I welded to the pipe ripped the side out of the pipe and both sides had broken at one point and were hanging temporarily from the manifolds only. I fixed them both right away but not before the drivers side "donut" took quite a hit and was damaged bad enough to completely fall apart. Now I had a huge leak right after the manifold and it sounded like pure A$$. Needless to say it prompted me to buy headers as I wasn't about to try to break free the studs that were in the manifolds since 1964! Block hugger headers were the obvious choice based on fitment and my concern over the long and mid length headers hitting the clutch linkage. I spent time in a friends heated garage tearing the old stuff off the block, installing the headers and running the 5 min. trip to the exhaust shop with OPEN HEADERS! That was fun for that 5 minutes, but thats all I could have taken of normal driving like that! Hahahah So the "Boom Tube" I seen this installed on my friends 1934 Ford 5 window and it souded so damn good! As I planned this exhaust system they came to mind but I quickly dismissed them based on the budget. However when I got to his house, he happened to have 2 pairs sitting on the bench in the garage! He said "I see you eyeballin' my exhaust!" Next thing ya know a deal was struck on some stuff I was there to look at doing for him anyhow. :) He also happened to have the plug wire set that I needed in a pinch once I put the headers on and they required 90* boots at all 4 corners. (Again traded fro the fabrication work he wanted outta me) Gotta love having a skill to barter with!!!! :) So here are a few pics and a YOUTUBE link to the finished sound. :) https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5.../upload_-1.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-h.../upload_-1.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4.../upload_-1.jpg Had to make a few reducers. The Boom Tubes are 3.5" inlet and I have 2.5" pipe. I wasnt about to pay SUMMIT RACING $22.00 a pc for reducers https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k.../upload_-1.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d.../upload_-1.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R.../upload_-1.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m.../upload_-1.jpg Here is the Tip with my reducer. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O.../upload_-1.jpg YouTube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2jtKflRXD0 |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
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Choosing rear gears
So while I recently picked up a second rear diff. I am not happy with my purchase and the hunt continues.
So I have been scouring Craigs List for donors. I am finding plenty of rear diffs, but of course what they come from is an issue. Width, bolt pattern, and gear ratio are my biggest concerns. I dont mind the fabrication aspect of trailing arm perches, shock mounts, and panhard bar mounts. After digging for a calculator online, and scrounging up all the needed variables, here are my findings. This first pics are of calculations based on the normal cruising speed of 65 MPH The second set of pics is based on MY typical cruising speed at 70 MPH Im thinking Ill likely go for somewhere between 3.23 and 3.50 THESE ARE ALL FIGURED AT 65 MPH https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...307%254065.png https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b...323%254065.png https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R...337%254065.png https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-n...341%254065.png https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q...350%254065.png https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...362%254065.png https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g...373%254065.png THESE ARE ALL FIGURED AT 70 MPH https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...307%254070.png https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...323%254070.png https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...337%254070.png https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...341%254070.png https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A...350%254070.png |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
So today......
Today was the first day I have had a chance to do anything at all worth a crap outside. Its been unusually cold here. So I wanted to give my truck a bit of attention primarily because I have been steady driving it and thats it. Nothing other than the exhaust has been done. So I started with hooking up the tach thats been on the column since soon after I got it running. The reasons were both general concerns for what the engine was up to, and more interestingly what my final RPMs were. I have a stock 84 350, a T5 trans wit a .73 overdrive gear and "thought" my rear gears were incredibly tall! Turns out I am right in the sweet spot with RPMs. 2100 @ 65mph 2300 @ 75mph I was extremely happy to find this out as I was just about to pull the trigger on new gears. so needless to say, Ill not be changing a thing for now. Beyond that I checked my timing a few weeks ago and was happy with where it sat. (I set it "by ear" and with no timing light) So after determining it was actually spot on with a timing light. I decided it was time to get the carb dialed in as I knew it was running rich since I rebuilt the carb. Hooked up the vacuum gauge and stared tweaking the mixture screws to get the highest vacuum possible, then ran em back in just a hair. Its running great and the exhaust smells much better now! Aside from that I managed to score a set of 2006 Honda civic coupe door seals for $40.00 off CL. I was / am happy as hell with the end product. I'll be sure to add important photos of that tomorrow. Anyhow a very productive day today on the truck. Not to mention the amount of $ that the tach saved me today from not needing new gears! I should have known better to check my RPMs before even contemplating another set of gears in the first place! ;) |
2006 Honda Civic (2 door coupe) door seal install.
Ok first and foremost pay no mind to my crusty old Daily driver! LOL I made it reliable and now I am working on all the crusty stuff! :metal:
So here we go. This first picture was something I was interested in very much, and that is the actual fit that everyone says is so damn awesome. Proof is in the picture! They fit better than Chevy would have made em'! This is the last of the "stretch" in pushing on the seal. It is not actually stretched in this picture, it seated properly and very nicely, with no tension trying to make it pop back off. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...6-no/upload_-1 Here is a little something I did (may not have been necessary), but I gently pinched the seal (the whole thing) before installing it. I feel it helped a bit just to get a better bite and Ill not have to worry about it coming off. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h...6-no/upload_-1 Here is the seal being pressed on to the door jamb. Nothing all that interesting really, but good to see since we are all here wondering how they fit. ;) https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d...6-no/upload_-1 Here is the seal installed. This is the drivers side looking at the A-pillar. The compression of the seal is like this all the way around the door and I am extremely happy with it. *NOTE* There must be a few colors of these seals. (Hence the "graphite" in the description of the part number supplied earlier in the thread) This may be valuable information since the part number supplied seems to be getting depleted. Maybe look for another color? (beige or grey?) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z...6-no/upload_-1 Just a few pictures of the corners to show there is no stretching or trying to pop off. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...6-no/upload_-1 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-o...6-no/upload_-1 Now for the one and only thing I wasnt a fan of. BUT...... I feel it is completely negated by all the "PROs" for this swap. The seal has a secondary "flap" that is likely used to cover the edge of the Hondas plastic interior panels. It is roughly 3/16" and in my case the seal is light grey. There does seem to be a fix for this if it seems to bother you all that much. You could potentially trim it off cleanly (and carefully). At that point you would be left with the black colored edge that is actually the "gripping" part of the seal. That portion does look presentable as well. (Picture taken with the camera at the windshield lookin in at the A-pillar) https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9...6-no/upload_-1 And finally the over all look from inside the cab! As you can see, the portion mentioned above really is a NON-ISSUE as it doesnt draw any attention at all. I pointed it out to my wife and she (as usual) said I was ridiculous and that nobody would ever even notice it. Hahahaha I hate the YELLOW by the way! It will be gone ASAP! Hahahah https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W...6-no/upload_-1 So I hope this answers a few questions! I give this mod and research put into it a 12 on a scale of 1-10! :) |
Scored a bunch of little "bits" today!
So I have a guy that is only minutes from where I work, that has a host of parts (haven't even seen his "warehouse") for these trucks. I had him in mind for a radio that I seen last time I was there.
I called him up to see if he still had it, and ended up down there to grab it. Was able to strike a deal with him and left with the radio, and a nearly full set of the custom knobs, including a cigarette lighter that I was about to buy online. All for the cost of a bumper that I bought from him a while back! He needs it back and I no longer needed it! I plan to hand the radio over to a friend that does radio conversions. He will use the tuner and volume controls, and gut the rest to add Bluetooth, and a USB port out the side for a charging port for my phone. Some screws for the door panels, and a vac gauge was scored as well. :) https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N...6-no/upload_-1 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...6-no/upload_-1 |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
The weather has broken finally!
I finally had a chance to get out and get some work done to my own stuff. (I do a lot of metal fab work on the side) So last weekend I decided enough was enough and gave attention to Large Marge. Small list of things I managed to get accomplished -Installed Jeep Cherokee door stops (more on this in a bit) -Removed the old piece of seatbelt strap that acted as the passenger door stop the PO installed (now I have holes to weld up) -Stripped and painted the front bumper. -lubed the heater cable to move freely, and fixed the knob that was twisting loosely. -Connected the cigarette lighter -Adjusted the hood latch so it wont let loose and rely on the 2nd safety latch. -Removed all the over spray from the PO paint job. While all this stuff is little its nice to get them done. I'm fortunate that the truck runs solid as can be and I only have little stuff like this to be concerned with now. I have a running list like many do and just because I have been keeping that going, Ill throw the latest list updates on here. To do: Replace rear wheel cylinders Seal fuel tank sending unit Install rear bumper Paint tailgate Replace core support Fix front running lights New wing windows Valve cover gaskets Hook up gauges Install radio Install speakers Sand and paint inside of cab New seat upholstery Flip passenger seatbelt Door sill plates Replace sheetmetal patches Rockers Fenders Cab corners Replace steps Patch rear fenders |
Been slacking on build pics!
So with the good weather comes progress!
Some of this has been done for a little bit, but I realized I hadnt posted pics so... First the engine bay. Ill post pics of when I first picked up the truck, then how I was driving it for a bit, then when I finally got a chance to clean it up a bit. So here it is the day I picked it up. It had been sitting roughly a year under a host of trees, and had no attention given to it at all really. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...0140822_164146 Here it is after I had installed headers and had been driving it for a bit. The mess with the wiring was driving me nuts. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z...304_100430.jpg Here is how it sits now. Much better, certainly not show worthy, but hell its a daily driver. Not to mention I am definitely not through with this. I plan to replace heater hoses, etc. and clean it up further when I replace the radiator core support. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...304_141619.jpg |
Dash and covering the last of that damn Yellow paint!
So, as you may have read previously, I HATE THE YELLOW that was on the truck when I got it. I have gotten rid of most of it (all except for the doors now).
So, the dash..... Some people may not approve and even I was hesitant with what I did, but I think I pulled it off pretty well. What I am speaking of is the heater control panel and the "stamped" detail on the opposing side. Ill start by saying how and why I decided to go this route. First, I didnt want to have a gauge panel hanging down from under the dash. I just dont care for the look of that. Next I wanted to keep the factory look of the dash. That lead me to the obvious open spots on the dash. Below the heater knob, and the opposite side of the radio hole were prime candidates for the gauges, however it wasn't without its cons. I was really reluctant to cut the dash itself. (I kick myself constantly for cutting holes in my door panels on my valiant for speakers!) So, I actually put this project on the back burner and sat on the idea. THEN...... while scoring a few other parts I happened across another heater control panel. At that point I thought "well if I cut a hole in the dash to accept that panel, then I could always get another one with no giant gauge holes and pop it in and it would look pretty much factory still. So the pictures tell the rest of the story. Here you can see I cut a hole to accept a second heater control panel. (Yes I was very reluctant as I cut it out still! HAHAHAHA https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e...304_172952.jpg Here it is with the gauges in place and prior to paint. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...302_181636.jpg Bits and pcs stripped and ready for a little straightening and paint. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...306_202647.jpg Painted bits (the radio delete plate will not be needed son! :) ) https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5...306_204348.jpg Dash painted and that ugly damn yellow gone!!! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...304_174014.jpg All put together! I am pretty happy with the end result. The steering wheel is next along with paint the rest of the cab in the cream color. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I...307_165020.jpg Here is the side by side comparison. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d...7-no/upload_-1 |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Just a picture I took while in Norfolks "artsy" area called Ghent. The Naro theater in the background. :)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...7-no/upload_-1 |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Look'n Good!!!
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Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
I used to live by Lynnhaven mall. Haven't seen that part of Norfolk in a long time. Thanks for sharing the pic!!!
Great looking truck. |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Thanks guys!
Yeah there are a lot of good restaurants in Ghent, so we tend to head there a few times a month. LOL I live nearly at the ocean front in VB myself. :) |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Realized I didnt post my "Custom Wings" that I made.
So as some of you know, the trim option for the "Custom" included the "wings" that are just aft of the doors on the cab. I looked a bit on ebay and in a few aftermarket catalogs and didnt like the price at all. Well I have had some ribbed stainless steel in my stash for a while and have had it in mind to make my own from that. 30 mins worth of work, and some double sided 3M tape.... Here is my version. :) Note: what looks like dents or bends is an illusion from using scotchbrite for a brushed effect. Nice and straight! :) https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...7-no/upload_-1 |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Quote:
And nice job on the sail panels. |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Still love this build.
I want these, and love the side exit look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2jtKflRXD0 Your pipes sound how I want mine too. |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Thanks Grizz!
I too am a little envious of something you have going....... The fact that you are in a country building something VERY VERY few people will ever have a chance to get their paws on! That is the first thing that comes to mind for you guys in other countries. |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Great thread, love this truck. I have been agonising over where to put my auxiilary gauges, I like this idea, cos it can easily be "reversed" with new panels. looks great too!
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Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Dash came out great. Like what you did with the gauges. I too would have to get rid of that yellow. Belongs on Corvettes and that it.
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Whoo Hoo! Got my seat back on Friday!
So I after asking on a FB page for the local Cars and Coffee event, I went to check out "Felix Auto Upholstery" here in VB.
Met up with him, he answered all my questions to my liking and we struck a deal I was happy with which included a little bartering of my fabrication skills and a rear differential I had kicking around in the bed of my truck for two months! LOL Here is what I got in return! EXACTLY THE SEAT I HAD ENVISIONED! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...7-no/upload_-1 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...7-no/upload_-1 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...7-no/upload_-1 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...7-no/upload_-1 Chances are incredibly high that Ill use him again for the Valiant when the time comes! Certainly a stand up guy as well. Very humble and does fantastic work! http://felixautointeriors.com/ |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Seat looks great!
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Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
The seat turned out real nice, I may "borrow" that design when I get that far!
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Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Thanks guys!
Yeah its a pretty classic design. Nothing real crazy. I tend to lean to the subtle side. :) |
Status Update
Well its now into the summer months and I have been steady picking at items that need to be done. Copying and pasting the list from above and also adding a few other things (They are NEVER done!)
To do: Seal fuel tank sending unit Install rear bumper Replace core support Fix front running lights New wing windows Valve cover gaskets Install radio Sand and paint inside of cab Replace sheet metal patches Rockers Fenders Cab corners Replace steps Patch rear fenders As for what I have been doing. Well Lets see..... I ran into an issue that scared me enough to force me into replacing the rear wheel cylinders (yes the only part of the brake system I never touched). Long story short the right rear was locking up early and then began to hang up as well. SO I replaced those a few weeks ago. Some friends of mine own a Pinup photo business and asked if they could use my truck.... Then....my wife! Hahaha... So around August or so both my truck and my wife will be in the Twisted Ink tattoo magazine! Thatll be pretty rad! But that forced me to finish up getting rid of that damn yellow paint on the interior. I still had yet to paint the inside of the doors. While I had the doors apart I insulated the removable panel. Fortunately that is pretty well behind me though I have the roof and back wall of the cab to still paint. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...lation-pnl.jpg On that note I actually may hold of painting the back section as I recently acquired a BIG BACK WINDOW cab and snatched the interior sheet metal, glass, and seal! I may be swapping that in soon so...... I got the cab in a kind of trade really. The guy selling was eager to sell it and had it on CL for several months. It had not title and had a good amount of rust. My buddy needed the roof, and I wanted that BB Window badly! So a bit of trade in future fabrication work (namely the roof replacement) was struck and the cab was had for $150.00 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...576/BBW-01.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I...576/BBW-02.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...576/BBW-03.jpg More recently, I have been prepping for a show I have wanted to go to for quite some time. Now that I trust the truck to make the haul, Ill be heading to Winston Salem NC for the "Heavy Rebel Weekender" show over the 4th of July weekend with the family. Somebodies vid from last year: http://www.heavyrebel.net/ I have yet to get my radio installed, but have been slowly gathering parts for the entire system. I wanted a whole system as I like my music and play it loud pretty typically. I didnt however want to fill the truck with huge stuff and take away from the clean look I have going in the cab. The components are as follows for the system: (nothing special actually) Factory AM radio (heavily modified) However looking completely stock! * AM/FM tuner *Bluetooth *4 ch output @ 50watts per channel *Pre-amp outputs 4" Pioneer full range speakers 8" Pyle Subwoofer that is self-contained with amplifier. Its very low profile for "under seat installation" I didnt want to be able to see the speakers very easily so I fabbed up a few brackets to screw to the bottom of the dash at either side. A few speaker baffles (foam housings) to help contain and direct the sound worked well in my bench tests. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...20mount-03.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...20mount-02.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...20mount-01.jpg I wanted to mount the sub under the cent of the seat, but the linkage for the seat latch was too low and would have interfered. As was the case under the passenger side. Needless to say it ended up under the drivers side and I am actually happy with it. I can reach both ends of the amp by just moving the seat forward or backward. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d...576/amp-02.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...576/amp-03.jpg I didnt want the ugly bright red power wire showing under the hood, so I installed split loom over it and routed it along the inner fender. As for all the cables from the radio to the amp, I zip tied them together and installed some cloth loom over the entire bundle to keep them safe and kept together. This is of course under the carpet. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...harness-01.jpg When the whole system is together it should sound pretty damn nice. (it sounded pretty good on my bench with being under powered and faulting out because it didnt get enough amperage from the 12v battery charger I had it hooked to! HAHAHA Beyond that I did install an 1 1/4" front sway bar and LOVE that addition! I wasnt happy with the installation instructions and how everyone was mounting them. Inherent issues seemed to include the "hit or miss" problem with steering linkage interference. After a bit of looking I decided to create some gusseted mounting tabs for the end links on the lower control arms. With the truck on the ramps and sitting at "full squat" I clamped the sway bar to the frame and realized it would work much better with the tabs and stay well out of the steering. Here is what I came up with. (Yes I plan to flip the end link bolts over for a bit more clearance) :) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...swaybar-01.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...swaybar-02.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...swaybar-03.jpg So thats the latest! Ill get back here for another entry after the show next weekend!!!!!! Pics galore from the show I hope! |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Putting this here for safe keeping... LOL
3 point seat belt info. https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/seatb...cts/25/view/63 |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Wow, I ran across your fender fix on FB and you mentioned your thread.
I started skimming through the build thinking, "oh, this is like all the others." While reading I realized this is NO ORDINARY BUILD. I ended up re-reading, going back through, studied some pics, even ordered the Honda door seals. Tons of good info here and all written out clearly. Great build. Congrats on the photo shoot in August. |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Thanks man! Much appreciated.
I like to learn from others as well so explaining it all well is just me trying to pay it forward for all I gather on here. Im just trying to build a solid daily driver and enjoy it while I run the piss out of it! I've been watching yours for a while as well! Thanks again... Ill be posting up the fabrication stuff very soon too. |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
I need to get my Hood repair pics posted! Maybe this week!
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New to me hood and rust repair.
So a while back I drove nearly across state to pick up a decent hood as mine was shot! The entire front section (the one you can buy) was rotted like crazy as well as the typical places back near the hinges.
The new one I bought only have rust back at the hinge area and I figured Id document how I repair this stuff. I had it in mind as I repaired them, that I would do a little write up, so I wrote on the hood itself through out the repairs. Here we go. Here are the rusted sections. Passenger side: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x.../upload_-1.jpg Drivers side: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t.../upload_-1.jpg So beginning with an over sized patch, I bent the flanges to match the hood. As you can see I dont have many fancy tools. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R.../upload_-1.jpg Both flanges bent down. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B.../upload_-1.jpg Here is the panel with both flanges. You can see I have not cut the rusted area out. I like to make my patches, get them cut as a finished patch, then scribe the patch directly on the area to be replaced. Its much easier to achieve a nice clean fit in this manner (most times) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H.../upload_-1.jpg I used a profile gauge here (cheap one from harbor Freight) but you do not really need it for such a small and simple part. It is nice however when working that curve into the part while standing at the Shrinker / Stretcher. This way I dont have to check the part against the hood so often. (just makes for less wandering around the garage) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l.../upload_-1.jpg Notes!!!! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7.../upload_-1.jpg A little shrinking and stretching on the flange I made. As you can see by shrinking and stretching the flange in the right areas, you can match the profile gauge. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l.../upload_-1.jpg On the other end (witout the flange) youll have to hand form the curve a bit. But because only 6" (roughly) away, the flange is trying to hold the shape for you. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i.../upload_-1.jpg Here you can see I have the profile in an acceptable tolerance. (good enough for my junk) :) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1.../upload_-1.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d.../upload_-1.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1.../upload_-1.jpg Now cut the rot out! Be careful not to cut the inner structure if you can help it. Though you can always weld it again so.... But its best to try to leave it untouched. Cut the spot welds with a spot weld cutter (Harbor Freight for like $5.00) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y.../upload_-1.jpg You will likely find all the junk under there, that has caused your rot! Clean it and treat it to prevent more rust (as much as possible) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d.../upload_-1.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x.../upload_-1.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z.../upload_-1.jpg Now is where you want to make sure you make a great fit. This will save you more work later. Ill go into a bit of info here. So there are a few things people think about the fit. Some people like to leave a bit of a gap. The idea behind this is that once you have ground off the weld that is proud (sticking above the surface) that you will then have some of the weld left between the two panels and it will be a strong weld. There are a few things that can hurt you by doing this though. 1. If your welder is set up correctly and you have good penetration through the sheet metal, then there is no need for the "filler" between the the panels. This is because the material from both sides will essentially melt together when there is both good penetration and a nice close fit. Basically the 2 pcs become one when the melt together. 2. Warpage..... when there is a gap, that means there is slack for the two panels to draw closer to each other. No matter the thickness of the material, it WILL shrink. And it WILL shrink from all the way around your weld toward the cent of the weld. If you give excess gap, it allows the panels to move toward each other when they shrink. Of course this on a microscopic scale, but when added up by multiple tacks, you'll notice it and it will cause you problems. Beyond that, the gap will require more filler wire. More filler wire means more heat. More heat means more warping. So the idea here is to keep the heat to a minimum. Quick, small diameter..BUT HOT... tacks are desired. that sounds counter productive, but a nice HOT tack will penetrate well the first time and you will not have to go back for pinholes or re-weld once you have ground off the top of the weld to find out that it didn't actually penetrate well and was primarily just on the surface. OK I shall continue with pictures... LOL I like to use a punch to allow me to "plug weld" back to the original steel that the outer skin was spot welded to. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S.../upload_-1.jpg A few well placed holes will help very well! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k.../upload_-1.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P.../upload_-1.jpg Tack her in when you feel you are happy with the fit! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0.../upload_-1.jpg A nice flush fit will save you body work later of course! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r.../upload_-1.jpg Here I have roughly ground the top of the tacks off. Be sure to tack a few places, elt it cool, grind the surface of the weld off, and repeat! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_.../upload_-1.jpg After the whole seam has been welded, finish grins / file, etc.... However you prefer to get a nice flat finish. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R.../upload_-1.jpg Of course some beer is needed! :) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5.../upload_-1.jpg The otehr side was done in exactly the same manner! :) |
Re: 64 "Large Marge" LWB-SWB / Build thread.
Great patch! Man I want to buy a shrinker/stretcher
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