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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Looking good so far! The cab looks in great condition, and great work on the exhaust.
I'm working on a '48 3100 with the '94 S10 frame swap. I'm going with an LS1 with a 4L60E transmission. I'll definitely be keeping an eye on your progress. Keep up the good work! |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Nice dude!
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I’ve been working on getting my cab position set. I had been forewarned in that setting the cab height, the position of the motor, and the steering column and linkage is a bit of a juggling act.
After some back and forth, I decided to set the front of the cab 4 in. from the top of the frame to the cab floor board’s support. I think if I were to do it all over, I may consider block type hugger exhaust manifolds over the S10 conversion headers. With the engine set about 0.5 in. to the passenger’s side I think the steering linkage would have cleared it, but, since I had already purchased the S10 headers, I decided to just go ahead and commit. I would have liked to go a little lower but in the end I think the 4 in. works out well. It provides good clearance between the S10 gas tank and the cab, doesn’t require too much of a transmission tunnel, and from the looks of it, I don’t think I will have any driveshaft clearance issues. No pics to really post here, up next will be constructing the cab mounts. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Project is looking really good. I like the jig you have set up. I may have to consider doing that blazer front brake swap.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Looks good. I am totally borrowing that cab lift idea. Looks much easier than other methods.
Nick |
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Progress is looking good, man.. |
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http://www.ad-engineering.com/S10PartsInterchanges.html |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Since I’ve got my cab position figured out I’ve moved on to building my cab mounts. There is nothing new or innovative going on here. I’m basically using the ideas I’ve seen in many other build threads, I just tweaked the dimensions to fit my build. The front and rear mounts are constructed from 11 GA 4x4 in. square tubing. The top plate is 3/16 in. thick.
I’m using S10 body bushings but replaced the factory rubber ones with Energy Suspension black polyurethane bushings, P/N 3-4130G. For the front cab mounts here is what I came up with. 1) The cab mounts were constructed to place the bottom of the cab floor board support 4 in. from the top of the frame. 2) The front cab mounts use the original front cab mount holes of the AD cab. 3) The front cab mounts are mounted 2 in. forward from the front of the oval hole in the frame. This positions my wheels just forward of center. I plan on dropping the front a couple more inches. Because of the front suspension geometry, dropping the front suspension should bring the front wheels back a little bit. For the rear cab mounts here is what I came up with. 1) The rear cab mounts were made to level the cab with the chassis. 2) The rear cab mounts use one of the original holes the AD shackle cab mounts bolted to. 3) I also ran an 11 GA 2x1 in. rectangular tubing between the two rear cab mounts. The tubing is drilled to bolt to the floor at three additional locations. I thought this would add some additional support. 4) The center to center distance between the front and rear cab mounts is 36-1/4 in. Before fully welding anything, I tacked the mounts together then tacked them to the frame. I then mounted the cab and all the front sheet metal to double check my fit. Then, I tore everything down, cut the mounts off, welded them up, welded them to the frame, and then re-installed the cab and front sheet metal. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...125%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q...126%252529.JPG A harbor freight holes saw set worked well enough. I found drilling at the lowest speed possible results in faster cutting. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...127%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...129%252529.JPG The front cab mounts are mounted 2 in. forward of the oval hole in the frame. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...130%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...131%252529.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...132%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I...133%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z...134%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C...135%252529.jpg I ended up notching the front of the front cab mouts to provide a little more clearance. Makes getting the cab on and off easier too. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...137%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...139%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...140%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...141%252529.jpg The center to center distance between the front and rear cab mounts is 36-1/4 in. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5...142%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...143%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...144%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
…the cab and front clip on the frame.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...158%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u...159%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Nice work, looks really good.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Doing some good work, and truck is looking great...Jim
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Great step by step! Thanks for sharing!
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Nice looking welds too.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Looking good, I like the way you did your rear cab mount.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Can you share some more about your cab lifting fixture? What did you made it from?
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Thanks for all the compliments. As for the lifting fixture, it was built from 2x4s and 3 in. screws. Here's some additional pics of it. Nothing fancy but it worked well.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r...817_205500.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V...817_205509.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W...817_205528.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Thanks for the pictures. That should be easy enough to build.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Great looking work! Your cab mounts really came out looking nice. Nice looking welds. You must still be able to see. LOL
I am impressed by your cab. It really looks solid! Cab corners and rear of cab looks in great shape. Have you put any thought into where you are going to put the battery? The frame on mine goes right where the battery box used to be. So I sealed off the battery access hole. I'm sure that I will mount it somewhere in the engine compartment, but I want to keep that as clean looking as possible. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Tikal48, I'm with you, I thought about putting it under the hood on the firewall but I want to minimize whats under the hood for a cleaner look. The other option is to put it somewhere under the bed, but with the way my exhaust is routed I don't really have a good spot. I think I'm going to put a sealed battery it in a plastic battery box behind the seat on the passengers side.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I was thinking of putting it behind the seat myself, but started reading some of the warnings on different forums. Now, I'm just undecided. I guess that I will leave that battle for another day.
Keep up the good work! |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Hmm...now you got me to thinking. After some reading, sealed batteries really aren't "sealed".
NHRA Section 8.1 Rules say: http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/G...egulations.pdf All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024- inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence. (“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to Class Requirements. So given the in lieu of a rear firewall...I'm thinking something like this may work: http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM424-Sea.../dp/B006VU5W92 Which is just like Jegs sells which is identified as NHRA approved: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10230/10002/-1 |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I Drew up a set of plans for the cab mounts I came up with.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...160%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s...161%252529.jpg Downloadable PDFs which are a bit clearer are available at the following links: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Before I got the cab back on I made up my transmission cross member. I picked up a cross member kit from Summit. The cross member is by Competition Engineering, P/N C3601. It has a 3.5 in. drop and is fairly stout made from 1-5/8 in. DOM tubing with a wall thickness of 0.134 in. I also picked up a new transmission mount, Energy Suspension, P/N 3-1108G.
I had to trim the thickness of the transmission mount a little to get it to fit into the saddle of the transmission cross member. I believe the saddle of the cross member is supposed to be welded flipped from what I have it but to get the right drop, I had to weld it on the way I have it. I used some 3/16 in. angle to make the make the frame mounting ends of the cross member. I used my hole saw set to drill holes in the angle then passed the cross member tubing through it and welded it up. I drilled a couple holes on each end and bolted it to the frame. Because the frame isn’t flat where the cross member mounts, I also cut some spacer plates to fill the void. I’m somewhat confident on where my motor is position at but if I have to, I can remove the cross member and slot the mounting holes. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z...162%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...163%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...164%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...165%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q...166%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q...167%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
thats a sweet solution for the crossmember!
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Nice work and nice welds. I like the curvature of the side mounts...a nice detail.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Thanks, the cross-member is basically a $65 piece of bent tubing but it made the fabrication easy.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Interesting solution on the transmission cross member. I like it! I used one of the Transdapt universal cross members on mine, and the Energy Suspension transmission mount as well. I think that the urethane bushings and mounts are the way to go.
What drafting program are you using? Is that something you do for a living? |
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What do you use? I saw your 3D drawings of the latches in your post. I've never used urethane mounts in anything else before, guessing they're just more firm and hold up better? |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Great to hear that your in Engineering! The attention to detail shows in your truck! Mechanical?
I'm an Engineering supervisor in a pump manufacturing facility. I work with our Hydraulic Engineer designing single and multistage centrifugal pumps. I use Solidworks for the 3D modeling and drafting. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I’ve started working on my front core support mounts. I did some final trimming on the inner fender wells. It was a little tedious, fit, trim, fit, trim, a little at a time. I was trying to keep the gaps and fit as tight and consistent as possible.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...168%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...169%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f...170%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...171%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I’d seen this method of attaching the core support in many other builds and I thought it worked out really well. I welded an 11 GA 2x1 in. rectangular tube between the front frame ends. Also, I attached two 11 GA 2x1 in. risers with supports attached to the top of the risers made out of 1/8 in. 2x2 in. angle.
On the bottom of the core support I welded a 3/16 in. 3x2 in. piece of angle with the 3 in. side on the horizontal. The bottom of the core support rests on the feet of the risers. To insulate it I used a couple large diameter rubber washers I found at the hardware store. The radiator is from summit, P/N SUM-381324 and the fan is a Spal, P/N IX-30100400. The Spal fan was about the thinnest I could find at ~2.0 in. I like how well the radiator ended up fitting in the core support; it almost has a factory look. If I had gone any lower with my body mounts the radiator would not have been able to be tucked into the core support the way it is, I would have had to further trim the top of the core support. Some pictures are probably more descriptive… Below, I trimmed down the channels to fit my 22 in. wide radiator. The bottom of the core support was cut to fit my radiator height, this also allowed for clearance with the steering gear box. There was also a little trimming to clear the radiator cap. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V...172%252529.jpg Below shows the 3/16 in. 3x2 in. angle welded in with the 3 in. side on the horizontal. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...173%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w...174%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...175%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...176%252529.jpg I installed some weather stripping foam from the hardware store to cushion the radiator. I also split some small vacuum line and put it on the bottom of the radiator and core support sides. The radiator simply sits down onto the lower 3x2 in. angle, I attached a piece of aluminum angle to keep it from sliding out. At the top, I used some small bolts and lock nuts to gently snug it up to the foam weather stripping. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q...177%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M...178%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K...179%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F...180%252529.jpg For slitting the hose I found it was easiest to tape it to the bench. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...181%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...182%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m...183%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...184%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...185%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...186%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...187%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...188%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...189%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...190%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...191%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...192%252529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Nice job...Jim
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
looking really good!
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Hussey,
I will be using the same type engine and accessory/belt set up as you, so the radiator info is perfect. Question - How far off the ground is it at the rear of the front fender? This will help me gauge how it will sit based on your cab mount height. It is hard to tell in the pic because the truck is on ramps. JRD |
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I haven't had it off the ramps yet so I don't know on height from the fender to the ground. I'll take a tape measure to it and subtract out the height of the ramps when I'm out in the garage later today. But, for setting the height of the cab, I'd use the 4.25 in. as the reference. One thing I do know is that I'd like to get it a little lower. I'll probably go with some 2 in. drop coil springs. Good luck with your build! |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
looks amazing! we used a similar mount on the core support of my 47, it is very strong mounted that way.
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