Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Gigamanx thanks for that link. I have new gauges in the cup but I'm pretty certain I kept the old ones. I'll dig them out and see how they come apart and if I can fit them on a template. If it looks good I'll be willing to rear apart the newer and working ones.

I got the 235 sold! So new goodies are being ordered. Just a few things at a time, nice and slow on ordering stuff. I don't want to buy to much at once. Doesn't mean I'm not looking through a lot of catalogs though!

I have found a couple of people who have done this IFS swap and they have been very helpful and forthcoming with info and advice. Lots of pics and a few suggestions and I'm still hooked on the idea.

Cab is coming along great and I took a break on it to sand the hood down. So far it looks like the hood and two fenders are dent free. The other two fenders need a little tlc but looks like minor stuff. The bed is in great shape too. Only the cab is in need of a lot of work. The cab is taking a bit longer, my welder friend is teaching me some welding basics and said the floor would be a great place to learn....yea...im learning alright. He checks my work, I redo some, he checks some more. He is thankfully doing big stuff on his own. I'll post some pics soon.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Found crack in the frame!

I was under the cab and noticed it. So passenger side underneath front cab mount bolt. That support piece that the floor welds to covers it up. Anyways theres a rivet that holds the bracket that supports the steps underneath that support. The crack goes through the top of the frame, and through that rivet. So the top L shape of the frame and goes down maybe a third of the way.

My welding friend hasn't been back out yet but thinks it shouldn't be a problem to fix. Says frames are cut, shortened or spliced together all the time. I'm concerned as to why it cracked..is the age a problem and will be a further problem? Should be just weld it, or put new metal pieces on either side and sandwich the repair too? Bolted or welded. Would it be good to box the area?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

crack from age and stress..your buddies correct..frames are cut and welded all the time...if done properly I wouldn't have a problem with it..never hurts to box the frame either. .

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I started a new project today and I think it's working out pretty good. I read skymangs thread and I read a tech article on stevebolt about putting a volt meter in an ampmeter spot. So I pulled the gauge cluster out and got it all pulled apart.

Gauge out..https://goo.gl/photos/MVoPkPwJ9DzyF6fM8

I popped the faces off by grinding the little rivets off.

https://goo.gl/photos/JuqMwT44nYwSkG3x8

I grabbed the "new" gauges. From my c10. About five years old, I replaced the big gas gauge for a rpm gauge and had the clock taken out. A nice little kit was available and now it looks like the money won't be wasted.

C10 gauges..https://goo.gl/photos/Aj7bzyXJxk2iuujbA

Started taking gauges apart.
https://goo.gl/photos/zsohDbN1NGoDuzzd7

Now to put the old faces on the new gauges. The screw holes didn't line up and because of the indentions where the screws did go, I decided to flip the gauges over so I could use the flat side. I lined up the new gauges to the old faces and marked and drilled holes.

New gauge/old face
https://goo.gl/photos/vLn3yPZGqsbZQeDBA

It looked good so I decided to do the others. One needle popped off, just needs a little glue. I held them all together with a little tape to check on clearances.
https://goo.gl/photos/KoyxfbhKmG8h8rZUA

I then put the cover over them. I might need to do something similar to what skymangs did..he had a piece of metal holding all the faces together and it was between the faces and the new gauges. I say this because it would help hold them together and because my new needles are taller than the old ones..so I'll space them back.

With cover.

https://goo.gl/photos/RxejTzWQsy69aXV88

So I can buy new decals for a few bucks. Not sure yet what I'll do about two gauges being backwards. Two of the old gauges went to the right to show low right?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I messed up the pics...how do I get the pics to load without needing to click on the link?

Here's the gauge pictures.

https://goo.gl/photos/g9wBbFUyu6rX5UfUA

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

maybe this'll help....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...sting+pictures

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Ok, in case others had issues with the links. Thanks for the picture help.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

So i ordered the engine universal tubular crossmember and mounts. I have been reading various v8 swap builds and I want to make sure I have my facts straight. I'm installing a 350/350 combo. I need to go back just far enough so there is still room to pull distributor. The old motor crossmember comes out...and the tubular one will go in. The trans crossmember needs to be removed and placed under the frame.

I am unfortunately doing this outside in the dirt. I'm thinking that when I'm ready to install the engine and trans that I need to level the truck. That or put a level on truck and one on engine when installed. I'm thinking just leveling the truck will be easier or better.

When I set the crossmember locations, I need to do so by putting a level on my carburetor and mount the engine with the carburetor level correct? Will this also make my trans pan level?

Im concerned with putting everything in so I get good fuel, good oil flow, good trans oil flow, and be able to set pinion angle. I'm not 100% clear on how far off I can get without issues.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Well I'm finally back at it. I've been on again off again sick for two weeks and have not felt like doing much outside. Well I had hoped to get floor done but it's not quite there. Buddy came out and redid half of what I started.. a bummer but at least it's getting done right. One side is completely done and looks awesome though!

I started a side project. Steering column. I've never taken any all the way apart, replaced a couple air bags and clocksprings and an ignition or two but that's it. I started a thread on this little project because I was a little lost but I talked an old mechanic and I found a breakdown for a Belair and I think I understand all the inside a now.

Junkyard I went to did not have a complete steering wheel in the place and I think I'm missing something on the one I grabbed for my new column. I'm not sure what type of horn button it should have any ideas?

What is the prong thing on the back of this steering wheel for?

I can fit my original one on... I think I will test fixing of cracks on it at the very least.

Column came out of a 57 chevy Belair and I think it will look a lot more original than the c10 one.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

The pics, one is of original steering wheel. It doesn't cover the new column though.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I ran across something I'm a little iffy about. I'm sure I can probably make it work if it is incorrect but I'd like to avoid as much sheet metal alignment problems as possible. When I got the truck the front was partially disassembled and the guy had to hunt some pieces down. One was the radiator support. I did a test fit today of inner fenders because I need to drill new bolt holes in the sheet metal I used to repair a corner.

The radiator support has holes in all the right spots to mount to the inner fenders. It's where it mounts crossmember that looks different than catalog pics. Does this look correct?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I got a couple of things accomplished yesterday. First I got a correct style bed. When I bought this 1950, it had a 1954 bed with it. Previous owner wanted flat top rails and had traded his bed. I made a trade and got a slanted rail bed. Very happy. Second I got a front end for only 50 bucks. It's an earlier one but the crossmember is the same. This allows me to do the suspension in a nice timely manner. And means I'll have some wheels on the c10 when I'm ready to have it hauled off.

I'm not sure if it's swappable but the lower control arms u bolts are a different size. I can either swap stuff from one crossmember to the other. Or just swap the whole thing. I can treat this like a motor mount replacement. I can raise the engine and disconnect the mounts and pull the front end out and put the other in and then rest the engine back down. Any thoughts? I'm thinking maybe a support bar across the top so I have rpm to pull out the front end..

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Not sure if this helps, but you can see the two bolt holes where I had sprayed PB Blaster to get the two bolts out of the bottom of the core support

[IMG]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/672/3...f8c847579b.jpg

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Thanks gigamanx does your support sit flush to the crossmember or is there some spacing? I called the guy I got truck from, he said there's another support he had I could look at.

I got the c10 front suspension out and bolted the older one in it's place. Fairly easy, I think easier than swapping stuff from one crossmember to the other, well maybe not.... I think 20 bolts in all, undo power steering lines and brake lines. I raised engine just enough to pull out engine mount bolts and the whole thing came out as one big heavy piece.

Sometime in next few days I'll try to get it installed. Found center mark on frame and center mark on suspension. It'll get me real close and I'll just give taps with hammer with fenders on to get perfect. Though I suppose I will need to be very sure to be same on each side..how much off will mess up my caster?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Mine wasn't flush if I understand what you're asking. You can see in your photo there are two mount tabs that line up with the two holes on the crossmember. Can't hurt to go see the other one the guy had though

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Only spent a few minutes on truck today but I did get old front suspension off..next step is install of new one.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Suspension installed! Raised the front a little bit but i won't look at making any lowering adjustments until after the weight of the engine is in. I used 1/2 steel plate on either side to mount. Had a machines friend drill them in his off time.

Next rear suspension and installing my 10 bolt rear. Found offset perches and new bushings through classicparts and rockauto...acdelco part numbers too.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

In case anyone is curious or is just beside themselves that I'm using the suspension from a c10. The truck pictured does have it's tires stick out a bit. I personally think it looks ok. Keep in mind this is without the owner really trying to suck in the wheels. He just used same wheels and tires that came from the donor c10. He drove it for a few years before he sold it and said he never had an issue with the tires rubbing.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I got the crack in the frame fixed. It was directly under the cab support, going through one of the rivers. Got it welded up and then welded the support over it too. Looks good.

Goal this week is the rear suspension and axle. Got new shackles and bolts and perches in the mail. Also ordered the lower cowl panel for right front. I'll tack it in and let my buddy weld it up in a week or so.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

My goal to have the rear axle done this week might not happen. It's been raining so I got a small inside project done. I got my door hinges all fixed up and painted! I bought the oversized pins from classicparts.

Three were loose, one was still tight as a drum. So it just got cleaned.

I tried to hammer them out. No luck.

I took a torch, small one you know no big shop here, no luck. Tried the wax trick...nope.

I used my drill press and had to drill the old pins out! I did use a hacksaw to separate the pieces first though.

They are all nice and tight now, no play at all! I'll put doors on tomorrow. If I was in a shop I wouldn't yet but all this rain... and my new floor and starting interior stuff... it seems like a good idea..plus I've never done so much cab work before...itll help my paranoia to know cab isn't tweaked.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I had started a thread on what to do about my rear springs. They were messed up to bad for new bushings. Eyes were elogolated real awful. A few days search and I got new (to me) main leafs and the right rear shackle mount. It was messed up too. I guess the guy I got them from used the other leafs for something.

I got it all for free!! I've already got new bushings installed! I'll get new center bolts and use the leafs from my old springs and be good to go.

Goal this week is have my rear suspension done and install my 10 bolt axle.

That'll mean front suspension done, rear done, and cab floor and firewall done(mostly, needs cleaning up before engine gets in the way)

It's coming along!

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Well I got just a little behind on my goal. First i decided to order U bolts, local spring place tried to tell me 20 bucks per bolt and autozone wanted 24 bucks for a set of two. Classicparts have some they sell with a open driveshaft conversion kit. 19 bucks plus shipping and I get all 4 U bolts. I didn't order them until today.... lol. I finished up rear springs and cleaned up rear part of frame. Used two wire wheels. Wish I had a sand blaster. Frame is primered and springs are on...loosely...i wanted to check fitment and I was worried I'd lose nuts and bolts and stuff.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Wait until you get to do the front :lol: Wire wheels can really throw that grease haha

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Lol yea, I did most of the front already... I had to also use a scraper and pressure sprayed it down too.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Well I've been pretty busy lately. My days off have been spent doing other non truck things.... so I'm behind. It always happens right. I got the rear axle in. Finally!! Ok so it still needs the perches welded and the old perches are in the way... gotta come off. But I can roll the truck around again. How have you guys do the tie plates? I am putting the engine and trans in this Sunday. This goal is set in stone! Weather permitting ....

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

looking good so far!


simple green and some paper towels really cleans up that front end grease!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4531/...ccf85e46_b.jpgIMG_1810_zpsfocoyxni by Joe Doh, on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4578/...5843793d_b.jpgIMG_1813_zpsnonhh501 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Engine and trans is in! Tacks welds with some support if it needs to be adjusted. I posted a thread on putting a v8 in an AD so if anyone wants to chime in if i need to make any changes now would be the time. My main concern was getting level with frame and distributor clearance. I can just barely squeeze my hand in there.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Heres better pics in the light.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I reused tge trans crossmember.. still needs some trimming and I'm gonna weld in some pieces.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

don't forget you need about 3deg downward angle on your engine and trans.....it needs to match the rear axle angle which should have about 3deg upward angle

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Hello guys, been a bit busy lately. Just finished finals for my last semester of college! College grad here look out!

And the weather is getting a bit ehh..

Today I lowered the front in by 2 inches. Cut a coil off each spring. Once it fully sets down I'll see what ride is like and if I need to get something softer. Brought it down a lot. Looks a lot better compared to the rear. Took before and after measurements from the frame.

And there before and after pics of wheel and fender.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

congrats on finishing college! thats a milestone you wont ever regret

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

So today I took the rear axle back off. Not to big a deal, it was all still pretty loose, snug but loose since I knew I was gonna roll it back out. Me and friend put the bed on so could double check that I did center it. I did. Jacked it up and rolled it out. Had to remove old perches, and I got a friend at a machine shop making me tie plates. I have measurements and a pic of what I wanted. When I get the metal back I'll put axle back on. I already has the metal and they arnt charging me, so saved a few bucks. The tie plates in the pic have 6 holes. I'm still not sure whether center bolt goes through center or through the 6th hole...

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got plates back.. look good, 1/2 plate and no charge to drill holes. Overkill? Maybe lol but the metal was there so....

Anyway, installed and truck is back on the ground. I can now set pinion angle..advice here would be great, and shorten driveshaft. More advice appreciated on how to measure length required too. I can also mock up my fuel tank. I've got a behind the seat tank and a 70 Chevelle tank I'm curious to see how it would look in the rear.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

couple of bits of steel later and bam truck is done

http://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog....ed-vehicle.jpg

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

With the holidays, I didn't touch the truck. But today was a nice day and I spent a little time on it. Got MC and booster installed. As well as brake pedal and bracket. All from the c10. Had to trim the bracket, you can see the piece. I will also bolt it too the dash support bracket. Still needs a little attention but looking good. Notice how the booster mounted to firewall... used existing lip. All the bolts are loose but the bracket will suck up inside a tad more, shouldn't be visible afterward.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Played with brake pedal set up a bit more today. Had to enlarge holes just a bit to shift the whole thing away from column by another 1/8 or so of an inch. I then firmly bolted it all in and played with the pedal to check on clearance. I still need to brace the whole bracket onto the existing dash brace but should work out.

I also messed with my trans crossmember. With how the trans is shaped, I was hitting the edge of the crossmember. I decided to add the small piece that was originally on it and pit my mount through it. It moved the crossmember back about an inch and a half.

Next up, I need to finally clean out the cab. I got dash and floor holes to fill and surface rust on ceiling. I want to get dash and doors prepared for paint. Someday I'll have a sandblaster lol it'll be nice to get it all cleaned up for paint and running wiring.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I spend a lot of time going through the projects here and I can't wait to have even half the skill you guys have. The welding and metal working skills on this forum are crazy! At least to me.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I'm covering the cab in the bodywork/paint section. Quick update here though. I've gone through two wire wheels so far. I'm going down to the metal, I clean it up, then primer. I've got dash, roof, back wall done. I got some spots in the corners to do but looking good. I have a couple areas I'll need to come back to also. I still need to fill in some holes... and attack the door glass issues in driver door.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Today I got another big dirty part done. I crawled under the dash and got to every little spot I could reach. When I did the front of it I had just blown out loose dirt. So today was wire wheel, blast of air, wire wheel, blast air, wipe it all down best I could, and blasted it with air again.

My face was brown around the goggles lol. I used rustoleum rusty metal primer just in case and for the nooks and crannies, after I was done. I think I will paint over the primer with a gloss black. Nice clean and shiny for future wires.