Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Yup. 1700 miles down. 300 to go.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Wow that’s a haul with all that weight behind you. Is it a 20 or 1/2 ton?

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

It’s only a 1/2 but the price was hard to pass up.
Just got home today 0730. Time for some sleep. Drove up Saturday morning.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

A good deal is a good deal. But it may work to your advantage anyways. You can always get an entire front end from a square body 3/4 ton, same as a 1/2 ton front swap. Then when you do that get the engine frame stands as they are the same angle as the 1st gen dodges and you can get away with stock mounts with very little modification. If you want I’ll post a picture of mine and a thought I had on how to redo them a little cleaner

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Madkid- yes please, Anything helps.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Well just a quick snap of my mounts. The frame stands were off a square body, as well as the entire crossmember and suspension. I sliced the original 1st gen mounts and slid the engine down/rubber mount side up. Then just simply welded it up. One of these days I’m going to redo them. The plan is to take square steel and cut it diagonally at the same angle of the current mount and then drill holes to mount it to the block and rubber pads. It’ll be the same thing I have now just not welded together

Side note that notch was to clear my power steering lines, that is till I realized I notched the wrong side. That’s what I get for doing both at the same time.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Little progress on the burb. Motor is in. Just need to figure out the wiring for it.
Had to Flip the intercooler upside down to clear the hood latch. Attachment 1901688

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Wiring is gravy, all you need to do is take your original ignition wire and put it to the fuel shut off solenoid, same thing with the starter wire, and that’s it aside from the battery cables Ofcourse. Is that a duramax intercooler? Looks similar to my flipped express can intercooler.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

I think it’s a Cummins. Sucker gave me hell to install.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Where did you find this at, been looking for one for my truck?

Thanks!

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

I hit up a transmission shop in San Diego. Guy had one in stock. I’ll try to find the name.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Awesome man, thanks!

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Is there a part number on it?

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Hope this helps you.
Let me try it this weekend to make sure it fits.

Attachment 1901945

Attachment 1901946

Attachment 1901947

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Wiring:

Would I need a voltage regulator for a cummins for the swap?
Which wires need to be connected to make this work?
Should I run the grid heater? Don't get cold in Texas.
On the 68 I have the following for the alternator.
Red
White
Blue
Black
On the starter side I have the following.
Purple
Black
Yellow

On the cummins I have the following on the alternator:
Big black
Green
Blue

Don't have anything for the starter or the injection pump/shutoff solenoid.

Attachment 1901956

Attachment 1901957

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Alternator you can run a Mopar external voltage regulator as a stand alone Setup like the old school applications did, or like mine I used an internal regulator conversion and all I need is one keyed hot wire to the alternator and it puts out 14.4ish at the alternator at idle. Starter solenoid run your original purple wire to it, fuel shut off solenoid on the injection pump just needs a hot in start/run. I have my original ignition source feeding mine as it draws little current. Besides gauges I literally have 3 wires going to my engine.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Starter and fuel shut off solenoid. I used my starter lug as my distribution block for my alternator, battery, and auxiliary take off to feed accessories and the cab, you can see the single purple solenoid wire. Shutoff solenoid is just a female spade terminal. My wiring is a little custom but the engine side will be the same. I planned on grid heaters hence the large gauge auxiliary wire coming off the starter, but in the low 20s mine still hit after just a couple seconds with a fuel heater delete also.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

The old school Mopar regulator made my lights “jump” a ford truck regulator will correct this

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Thanks, I’ll see what I can come up with.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Found it! Lmk if it works and if you have the contact info please.

Thank you,
Jon

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Did you have a chance to install the mechanical speedometer drive?

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

I was out of town for a few weeks but will be back on it this week.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

The vss screws into the part you bought and isn’t needed. I also bought one but could’ve just removed the vss and been done

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Sorry I couldn’t check it out for you “projectking”.
Little progress.

Attachment 1915154

Attachment 1915155

Attachment 1915156

Attachment 1915157

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

All good. Nice progress!

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Little more.
Attachment 1915351

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Not good.
Attachment 1918872
Figured out why I couldn’t get it running.
Hopefully it’s not expensive.
“Chrome lever”

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

That’ll do it for sure. If you decide to tear it down and fix it yourself I have a couple spare fulcrum assemblies. There are different numbers from the factory but I honestly don’t have a clue the difference. I remember one of the numbers being more prone to breaking and researched it when I built my pump but can’t rememeber which one I used. Future thought Incase you broke it putting the top back on, I usually back the power screw all the way out and then use a 6mm 1/4” drive with a swivel and extensions to get past the fuel lines to run it back in. I know it’s not a proper place to “sale” but if you need one I’ll send you one for $10 when it’s time.

Be warned it is easy to mess up and destroy internal pump parts if you don’t put things back in just right and then you’ll be looking for more parts or another pump. I’ll admit my first time I broke my rotor and since then always know for sure it’s all just right before install.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Hydro boost
Will this work for me? Gmc van
Attachment 1956352

Attachment 1956354

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Don’t think so with that combination and your intake pipe. I moved my intake forward using a 24v plenum plate. Are you just wanting the better stopping power or is the vacuum pump not working?

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Need that stopping power.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

I was wondering if you ended up using this hydroboost setup? I have the same one on my truck. I am still looking for a different master cylinder. I was wondering if you ended up using a different master if so what did you use?

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Sorry hadn’t been on the site for a while. Moving and building a house and shop.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

It’s been a minute.
Got busy moving, building a house and shop.
Back to working on it.
Not sure about body work.
Might just get it blasted.
Attachment 2071227

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

And the new shop.Attachment 2071219

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Attachment 2073678
And it begins.
Need to get replacement panels.
Like the electric 6 inch sander.
Not to crazy about the burnishing polishing machine

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Getting it blasted might not be a bad idea. Make sure all your mechanical stuff get sealed up really well. Nice on new house and shop. Nothing wrong with that.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

I was thinking about getting it blasted. Not that many guys that do it in my area.

Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
 

Need to get a few body panels.
Anyone used Raybuck or c2cfabrication?
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Re: C10 suburban /cummins 12 valve