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-   -   Wampus Cat (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=759550)

TxCajun 04-04-2019 09:54 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by kdad (Post 8475021)
Your repairs are looking really nice.

Thanks kdad. I checked out your build thread. I think we are both headed down the same path of trying to make a daily driver at a reasonable budget.

While I enjoy reading about some of the over-the-top builds that people on this forum are doing, I think I like the daily driver, hands-on builds the most.

TxCajun 04-26-2019 09:58 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
2 Attachment(s)
Bonding the outer roof back on.

After doing the rust repairs noted above, I prepped the top of the inner roof and bottom of the outer roof using POR-15 and/or primer as appropriate, and then added a coat of semi-gloss black. When painting the roof sections, I avoided painting the approximately half inch wide contact area around the perimeter so that I would have bare metal contact for the bonding adhesive.

I applied Noico 80 mil reflective sound deadener mat using a Noico Metal Barrel Roller (both purchased on Amazon) to the roof panels. I chose the Noico because it seems to be less expensive than some of the other brands, and it has little or no smell. I applied it to most of the inner roof for sound deadening and to hopefully reflect some of the Texas sun's heat, but I only applied a few sections to the outer roof to cut down on the “steel drum” effect.

TxCajun 04-26-2019 10:08 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
4 Attachment(s)
Bonding the outer roof back on, Part II.

After reading the product descriptions and MSDS for several panel bonding adhesives, I decided to go with Evercoat FIB-816 Maxim Large Panel Bonding Adhesive. I chose this because it is a two part, one-to-one epoxy adhesive with a mixing nozzle but it is packaged in a single tube that fits in a standard caulking gun (unlike some others that require a special applicator gun).

The product description sheet claims that the adhesive has corrosion resistant properties which I thought was good since the panel-bond-line has to be left as bare metal. Also, the Working Time is 90-110 minutes which is good since I was doing this work by myself and it took the full 90 minutes to apply the adhesive, get the roof in place, and apply the clamps.

Clamp Time for the adhesive is 6 hours and Full Cure time is 24 hours which is fine for my schedule.

The adhesive application instructions say to brush the adhesive to a thin coat to cover all exposed bare metal, then apply a 1/4” to 1/2” bead of the adhesive to the frame or new panel, align the new panel to the frame, slide the panel to re-position, clamp the new panel to the frame. I had been concerned about how much money I would have to spend on clamps to go all around the roof perimeter, but my brother suggested heavy duty spring clamps that can be found on eBay or Amazon for about $25 for a “Lot of 24 - 6" inch Clamp Large Heavy Duty Spring Metal - 3 inch Jaw opening”. Using these clamps and several 3/8” square wood spacers that I cut from a scrap 2x4, I was able to apply an even clamping around the perimeter, and I used a few C-clamps that I had on hand in areas that needed some additional force.

The pictures below show the roof bonded/clamped in place.

Next step after the panel adhesive cures for 24 hours is to remove any excess adhesive, prepare the rain gutter area, and then apply seam sealer in the gutter.

Clyde65 04-26-2019 10:45 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Very thorough! Well done!

Duncan K 04-27-2019 02:34 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Great job! Thanks for sharing this, I'll be doing the same on my 66 very soon

SCOTI 04-29-2019 10:52 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Nice!

TxCajun 04-30-2019 01:42 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
2 Attachment(s)
Clyede65, Duncan K, SCOTI, ......... Thank you for your kind comments. I get lots of great information and ideas from this forum, so it's great if some of the details that I provide help someone else.



I removed the clamps from the roof today after the adhesive had cured and I'm pretty happy with the results.

A couple things to note:

While installing the outer roof, when you clamp down on the perimeter, some of the adhesive will extrude out around the edges or any holes. I had put some plastic film between the wood spacer blocks and the metal to prevent them from sticking to any excess adhesive. This worked fairly well except where the adhesive extruded over the top of the film. I had cut strips of the film to go under the blocks, but in hindsight, I should have made the strips larger and formed a "U" shape so that the adhesive would be less likely to extrude around the edges (see pictures). In any case, the wood blocks and most of the film came out easily in about 15 minutes, and I'll only need to spend a little time with a grinder to clean out any excess adhesive from the gutter before applying primer and seam sealer.
The film that I used was some material that was given to me from a printed circuit board shop where it is used due to it's non-stick properties. I don't know what it is, but it is very similar in feel to Mylar or Vellum. Alternatives might be a thin sheet of Teflon or maybe even wax paper.

I also found that my outer roof did not sit completely flat on the inner roof even after a little massaging. A few areas required more clamping force than just the spring clamps would provide, so I used about 10 small C-clamps in those areas to clamp the two roofs together tightly. I mainly needed these C-clamps along the sides above the doors, and in the area just behind the doors where the rain gutter slants upwards.

aggie91 05-01-2019 12:49 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Great details on how you did the roof repair. I have thought about doing it this way once I commit to a full on rust repair to my '65.

Mental note to look here for future reference!

TxCajun 05-07-2019 09:54 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
Seam seal the rain gutter using 3M Self-Leveling Seam Sealer, 08307, 200 mL Cartridge.

After a lot of reading on the forum about people's experiences with various products for the rain gutter seam sealer, I decided to use the 3M Self-Leveling Seam Sealer, 08307.

Several people said that they were able to borrow the special cartridge gun for this from a paint supplier or a body shop, but I was unable to find a loaner or rental. I ended up buying the 08307 cartridge on eBay for $37.50 and the 3M 08571 Manual Applicator for $57. I figure when I am done with the applicator gun I'll sell it for $15 or $20 less than I paid for it and consider that a “rental” fee.

I had already cleaned up and primed the rain gutter as per the instructions, and I elevated the front of the truck so that the side gutters were horizontal/level. I put some cable ties in the rain gutter drains at the four corners to keep the sealer from running through those holes. And I also put some 3M Masking Tape on the roof side of the gutter, about 3/16” from the bottom of the gutter, in order to keep stray sealant off of the roof.

I installed the cartridge in the applicator and primed the mixing tube per the instructions. At about 75 degrees F in my shop, the 08307 seam sealer is about the same viscosity as honey or a thin syrup. It was easy to pump the material out of the applicator gun, and it flowed very nicely in to the rain gutter channel. This material sets up relatively quickly; it has a nozzle dwell time of 6 minutes, a working time of 8 minutes, and can be painted after 15 minutes. The 3M instructions say to “Extrude sealer onto surface, being sure to keep end of mixing nozzle submerged in the seam sealer to reduce the possibility of entrapping air in the product.” I worked my way around the gutter doing this, and got a nice bubble-free flow.

A couple things I learned:

1) I used a good quality 3M masking tape to mask around the gutter, but this tears easily if some of the sealing material “sets up” on it before you remove the tape. I found some online video showing the use of 3M vinyl masking tape (like the tape used for fine lines), and I think that would work better for ease of removal.

2) I was working by myself, but I think it would be better if someone could follow you around and start removing the masking tape at the 8 minute point, because by the time you get all the way around the perimeter of the roof, the material is already setting up in the area where you started. This makes the tape removal a bit more difficult.

3) Some people said that they used a different sealer on the gutter area that angles upwards from behind the doors on the sides to the rear of the roof due to the “flow” of this sealer. However, I found that since this sealer sets up so quickly, I could use a “paddle” to scoop or slide the material back up the slope as it began to set up, and very quickly it was stiff enough to not flow down the sloped gutter, but still sufficiently thin to cure as a smooth surface. The “paddle” was just a rectangular piece of plastic material (probably polyethylene) that I cut from a margarine container. The "paddle" is the green thing in one of the pictures.

4) The cable ties that I stuck in the gutter drains helped to keep the sealer from running out, but the drains will take a little more work with an exacto-knife or Dremel tool to open them back up completely.

5) I tried to apply the sealant no more than 1/8 thickness. (As someone else said in the forum, it is a sealant not a gutter-filler.) If you can stay within this thickness, you should be able to seal the gutter all the way around the roof with maybe 20% to 30% of the material in the cartridge left over.

raggedjim 05-07-2019 10:20 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Nice work and write up on the seam sealer, I have to do that to my Blazer this spring.

Thanks, Rg

EagleScreech 05-07-2019 11:01 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Awesome pics and info here. Thank you!

roll_the_dice 05-07-2019 11:02 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Thanks for the great seam sealer write up...I am doing mine in about 2 weeks! This is perfect timing!

slammed57 05-09-2019 09:41 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
nice fab work. keep the pics comming

TxCajun 05-26-2019 02:56 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
Work Shop Electrical

I finished the assembly of the steel building workshop back in November 2018, and have been using it with just two 100' extension cords running from the house while I worked out the electrical design that I wanted and saved up the dollars.

My city electrical permit was approved in early May, and we installed the electrical at mid-month. I ran 220v power from the main panel at the front corner of the house, through the attic to the rear corner of the house, then dropped down the outside of the house to the underground run for the shop.

The area where I live is solid limestone, so we rented a rocksaw to trench 24" deep for about 96'. The limestone is fairly soft and the trenching took about half a day.

In the shop, there is a subpanel that breaks out two 220v circuits for an air compressor and a welder, and multiple 110v circuits to run outlets all around the perimeter of the shop, switched power to the ceiling for lights, switched power to the ceiling for fans, and non-switched power to the ceiling for drop lights. I also have a switched security light circuit outside and covered GFCI receptacles outside.

The install passed the building inspection, and I've been enjoying not dealing with extension cords and tripped breakers for about a week.

Next up, back to cab floor rust repair. ;-(

TxCajun 05-31-2019 10:13 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
Floor Rust

Somewhere in the past, someone had laid bondo and fiberglass on the sides and front of the cab floor to cover the gaping rust holes. At one point I had thought about just leaving this so that I could get the truck back on the road, but after completing all the rust repairs on the roof I couldn't bring myself to leave the floor with this mess, so I started poking at it.

It appears that they slapped this bondo/fiberglass mix on top of the dirty and rusty floor with no preparation, so it was just a crusty mess. The first picture below is about a fourth of the slabs of fiberglass that popped off. Once the loose stuff came up, I used a side grinder with a wire brush cup to remove the rest. It was a dirty, itchy mess.

The second and third pictures show the rust on the driver side floor and the huge hole where the gas pedal was mounted in some of the fiberglass.

The fourth and fifth picture show the passenger side floor and the top of the passenger side rocker panel.

The cab appears to have a thin layer of undercoating on the bottom, and because both the roof and windshield leaked, it appears that the cab floor rusted from the top down (or inside to out).

The good news is that the “A” pillar structure appears intact and the rocker panels are solid except on the top.

I plan to fabricate the patch panels for repairing the floor. I bought a Harbor Freight bench top 30” metal brake for about $50 and a Harbor Freight 2 inch tear-drop mallet for about $8 for doing this. I already have some body hammers and dollys.

I plan to use some of the leftover inner roof panel material (from the Craigslist roof that I bought for roof parts) to form some of the patch panels (it appears to be the same gauge as the floor). I also bought some 18 ga and 20 ga sheet metal drops at a local metal supply shop which sells drops by the pound.

TxCajun 05-31-2019 10:35 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
3 Attachment(s)
Floor Rust 2

These are some in-progress shots. My brother is in town visiting his son and has been “enjoying” playing with the metal brake and pounding/fitting panels with me. Big thanks!

The first picture is a panel being cut and formed for the passenger side floor. I don't have access to a metal roll former for making the stiffener channels for the floor, so my brother came up with the idea for cutting these parts from the leftover inner roof panel that already has some of these channel features.

The second picture shows some of the repair panels tacked in place on the driver side floor.

The third picture shows the formed piece that will be fitted to the top of the outer rocker panel on both sides of the cab. It had to be formed in two pieces because it was too long to fit in the metal brake, but we were able to create a pretty good reproduction of the flange where the door weatherstrip mounts.

TxCajun 06-24-2019 10:11 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
Floor Rust 3

The first picture is about 2/3 of the rusty metal removed from the floors and rockers.

The second picture shows the floor repair panels welded in place and welds ground flush.

The remaining pictures are the completed repairs to the tops of the rocker panels. On the passenger side, I had to remove some of the front portion of the rocker to get to some rust repairs at the bottom of the A pillar, then rebuild and reinstall that part of the rocker.

I started removing the bed mounting bolts and plan to remove the bed and fuel tank so I can see if there are any rust areas to be repaired at the bottom rear of the cab.

aggie91 06-25-2019 09:15 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
nice work on the cab repairs. Shop electrical looks good too.

TxCajun 06-27-2019 03:39 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Aggie91, ........ Thanks! I'm very happy with the shop electrical. It certainly beats dealing with the extension cords from the house, and occasional tripped breakers back at the main panel.

TxCajun 06-27-2019 03:57 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
Bed removal.

I removed the bed so that I could work on any rust issues on the back of the cab. The bed has a welded steel tread plate floor that I estimate adds 250 to 300 pounds to the weight of the bed, but I was still able to pull it with my engine hoist. I also built a dolly to store the bed out of the way and move it around the shop.

The drivers side of the cab rear panel looks ok, but the passenger side may require a little surgical repair.

Next, I'm going to pull the gas tank so that I can inspect this area from the inside also.
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TxCajun 07-05-2019 10:28 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
4 Attachment(s)
Rear cab passenger side rust repair

After removing the gas tank and doing more cleaning/inspection, this area looked suspect. When I removed the paint and scale it turned out to be perforated, so I cut out the area, made a patch using the metal brake, and welded it in.

In retrospect, I should have made the patch taller so that I would have had more access to the back of the weld in order to planish hammer the long portion of the weld. However, the seam is pretty flat after grinding, so a little body work should make it ready for paint.
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TxCajun 07-12-2019 10:31 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
I have a few more cab rust areas to address in the rear corners and on top of the dash just below the windshield, but I was feeling kind of burned out on all of the stitch welding and grinding for the sheet metal repairs. I decided to take a break from sheet metal, and work on a trailer hitch.

A while back I had found a $15 receiver hitch on Craigslist that I thought I could modify to fit. It was originally from a 90's RAV4.

The first thing I did was modify the "leaning Z" shaped brace that is riveted as part of the frame a few inches from the rear ends of the frame rails. I turned this in to a "C" channel by bending the top flange to 90 degrees, and cutting off the bottom flange, flipping it around, and re-welding it to make the bottom of the "C". This channel is then bolted to the back of the frame to box it in. (I didn't really need to do this to support adding the trailer hitch. The modification is to make way for either a rear gas tank or a rear spare mounted on a cable or chain hoist. Direction is still to be decided.)

I then modified the receiver hitch by reducing the width about 6 inches, and adding a 4 inch wide plate to each side to lower the receiver 4 inches and move it rearward about 3 inches. I also added a 2 inch wide plate to the top of the receiver for bolting to the bottom of the rear bumper. The modified receiver hitch has two bolts per side through existing holes in the frame rails and two bolts through existing holes in the rear bumper.
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SCOTI 07-16-2019 10:33 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by TxCajun (Post 8557594)
I have a few more cab rust areas to address in the rear corners and on top of the dash just below the windshield, but I was feeling kind of burned out on all of the stitch welding and grinding for the sheet metal repairs. I decided to take a break from sheet metal, and work on a trailer hitch.

A while back I had found a $15 receiver hitch on Craigslist that I thought I could modify to fit. It was originally from a 90's RAV4.

The first thing I did was modify the "leaning Z" shaped brace that is riveted as part of the frame a few inches from the rear ends of the frame rails. I turned this in to a "C" channel by bending the top flange to 90 degrees, and cutting off the bottom flange, flipping it around, and re-welding it to make the bottom of the "C". This channel is then bolted to the back of the frame to box it in. (I didn't really need to do this to support adding the trailer hitch. The modification is to make way for either a rear gas tank or a rear spare mounted on a cable or chain hoist. Direction is still to be decided.)

I then modified the receiver hitch by reducing the width about 6 inches, and adding a 4 inch wide plate to each side to lower the receiver 4 inches and move it rearward about 3 inches. I also added a 2 inch wide plate to the top of the receiver for bolting to the bottom of the rear bumper. The modified receiver hitch has two bolts per side through existing holes in the frame rails and two bolts through existing holes in the rear bumper.
.

Nice. I've been watching C-list for a similar deal. All my earlier trucks utilize hidden hitch set-ups that you can't see from the rear. I want to do a similar hitch for my OBS '99. Maybe not hidden, but out of sight vs. hanging way below the bumper.

TxCajun 07-16-2019 01:39 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 8559491)
Nice. I've been watching C-list for a similar deal. All my earlier trucks utilize hidden hitch set-ups that you can't see from the rear. I want to do a similar hitch for my OBS '99. Maybe not hidden, but out of sight vs. hanging way below the bumper.

Thanks! I like the "hidden hitch" setups that I've seen on this forum that are behind spring loaded license plates, but I didn't want to cut the old dealer bumper on the truck. I did try to tuck this hitch as close underneath and forward of the bumper as I could while still being able to bolt it to the bumper through existing holes.

You might want to look at Wrench-A-Part or Pull-A-Part yards near you for a hitch to modify. In Austin and Belton, they sell them for about $25 or $30. I was at the yard in Belton a couple weeks ago and saw a lot of hitches on 90's and 00's Chevy trucks that might be a good starting point.

(While there I pulled Jeep Cherokee rear wipers and door checks for my truck.)
.

TxCajun 07-17-2019 09:07 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
3 Attachment(s)
Hood Removal

I'm stripping the paint from the cab using a Twisted Wire Cup Brush on a side grinder. I have the top back and sides done. In order to get to the cowl area I needed to remove the hood, but the hood seemed a bit heavy and bulky to do by myself.

I ended up looping a tie-down strap through the hood snout and the hook on my engine hoist and putting this in slight lift/tension. Then I removed the bolts between the hood and the hinge, and then lifted the back end of the hood while swinging it forward. This worked fairly well and I was able to stand the hood up on its back edge for storage while I'm working on other areas.

Also pulled off the bumper, grill, and grill surround.

Next, back to paint stripping and a couple more rust repair areas that I've uncovered while stripping paint.
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TxCajun 08-26-2019 11:10 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
I've been setting aside funds to buy material to build a cover over the driveway to the shop so that I have a place to work outside when the weather is nice or when I'm doing something too messy for the shop.

Finally was able to buy the steel last month (although it cost 30% more than the quote I got last fall thanks to steel tariffs !%#@##!!! ).

.

TxCajun 08-26-2019 11:25 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
4 Attachment(s)
Continuing to remove paint from the cab, but finding more rust in the lower rear corners and the A-pillar drip rails.

Just when you think you're done with rust and can make some progress on other stuff ............ :-(

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TxCajun 08-30-2019 10:37 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
4 Attachment(s)
Rear cab corner rust repair.

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TxCajun 10-31-2019 11:20 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
More paint stripping and body work.

I've been stripping the cab exterior and interior with cup wire wheels on a grinder, but my brother suggested that I look in to media blasting for some of the other parts.
I took the hood, doors, grill, and a couple other items to a wet media blaster and the results were very good.
I think I can repair most of the newly uncovered rust, dents, and old dent-pull-holes with the welder and some fabricated patches.
However the lower nose of the hood is pretty far gone and has multiple curves that I probably can't duplicate in a fabricated patch so I've ordered a replacement. Found a pretty good deal on eBay through CarID with free shipping for a TriPlus™ Lower Hood Repair Panel (302-4060-1) by Auto Metal Direct®. Will show the install of this panel in an upcoming post.

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Grizz1963 11-01-2019 04:09 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Two things, maybe three.

Love the problem solving on hood removal.

Love the carport, extended roof even more, I have a large shop but would love to extend my undercover space more.

Third, really like your systematic approach to your build.

SCOTI 11-01-2019 10:23 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
That hood.... Yuck.

TxCajun 11-28-2019 01:16 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
Hood Lower Valence Replacement

Well, as you can see from the media blast photos shown above, the hood lower valence needed to go as it was really rotten.

I looked around quite a bit and decided to buy an Auto Metal Direct TriPlus Lower Hood Repair Panel from CarID. Through eBay it was about $180.

I first removed the inner hood support by drilling out about 40 spot welds. This piece turned out to not have any significant rust damage but did have a few cracks in the corners that needed to be welded. It was also slightly tweaked, but a little bending and hammer work fixed that.

Before removing the Lower Panel from the front of the hood, I clamped a piece of angle across the front of the hood to help retain the hood shape.
The hood gets very wobbly when this lower panel is removed.

Because the Lower Panel spot welds that attach it to the hood are not accessible with a drill or spot weld cutter, I cut off this part with a side grinder and cutting wheel just shy of the seam, then used a spot weld cutter and a grinder to remove about 35 spot welds and clean up the joint.

The new Lower Hood Repair Panel fit fairly well but did require some massaging on the rear flanges at each end. I also had to drill holes for all of the plug welds that I would need to attach the new part to the hood and the inner hood support.

The Lower Hood Repair Panel was fitted in place and secured with a bunch of clamps. I then started plug welding from the center and worked my way out to each end.

Next, was cleaning up and painting the topside of the inner hood support and the underside of the hood where the support would cover it. I then positioned the inner hood support in place, secured it with a bunch of clamps, then started plug welding from the center and worked my way out.

The end results are pretty good, and the new Lower Hood Panel is a huge improvement over the rotten one that I removed.

I worked a few other areas on the hood that needed some hammer and dolly massaging. The next step is to get the hood primered since it is starting to get some flash rust on the media blasted parts. Hoping for a few warm, dry days early next week.

.

SCOTI 11-28-2019 03:26 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Fit looks pretty decent 🤓👍

TxCajun 12-09-2019 11:25 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
3 Attachment(s)
Scoti, thanks for the comments on the hood lower valence fit.

My brother was a big help in getting that aligned, clamped and welded, plus working out a few dents. On that big hood, it is more than a one man job.

My brother is also loaning his Iwata paint gun to me and got me up to speed on using the gun so the hood now has a coat of two-part epoxy primer which makes it look even better.

I'm using paint supplies from the local TASCO Auto Color shop. For the media blasted parts I used the PPG SX579 Metal Cleaner, then the PPG SX520 Metal Conditioner, let that dry overnight, then sprayed a coat of the JP375 Epoxy Primer mixed with JH3770 Primer Hardener.

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TxCajun 12-09-2019 11:43 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
Fenders

The media blasting of the fenders revealed some cracks, a bunch of holes that had been previously made for pulling dents, and some big dents that had just been filled with lots of body putty.

In addition, there was rust in the rear lower sections. When I cut out these areas for repair, I found the inner braces were full of hardened mud/rocks/rust that had to be chiseled out.

After much hammer & dolly work, patching, and welding, the fenders also got a coat of epoxy primer.

.

TxCajun 12-09-2019 11:59 PM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
Passenger door

This door had rust in the inner and outer lower corners, drilled holes from previous body work, and holes from West Coast style mirrors.

My brother formed a couple of really nice patches for the corners which I welded in and finished. I then welded up all the miscellaneous holes, and we did some more hammer and dolly work.

This door did not have holes or captive fasteners for mounting a standard style passenger mirror, so I added those holes and made a nut plate for the inside of the door to simulate what the factory would have installed.

Epoxy primer, and on to the next parts.

TxCajun 12-10-2019 12:14 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
4 Attachment(s)
Grill and grill support.

The weather is supposed to turn cold and rainy, so while it was still sunny and in the 70's I put epoxy primer on the grill and grill support.

These parts still need some hammer and dolly repair work, but since they had been media blasted, I needed to get them painted before it gets cold and damp or they would start rusting. Having the parts in a uniform primer also helps in spotting the damage.

88Stanger 12-10-2019 10:33 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
damn fine work there. Thanks for posting. Ill be doing similar very soon.

Duncan K 12-10-2019 11:40 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
Nice job on that door patch!

TxCajun 12-14-2019 12:00 AM

Re: Wampus Cat
 
5 Attachment(s)
Driver door

Hammer and dolly work done with my brother; an extra set of hands really helps.

Weld-filled about 32 drilled holes from old mirrors and previous body work (left the stock mirror mounting points but had to ezy-out a couple of broken mounting bolts).

Patches created and welded in for rust in the inner and outer lower corners.

Weld repaired cracks around the latch mounting holes and at the bottom of the window opening.

The first picture is the door when I picked it up from the media blaster. I had no idea that all of those holes and dents were lurking under the bondo and paint. The remaining pictures are prep work and epoxy primer.
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