Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
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Cleaning 53 year-old undercoating is tough...this stuff was applied well. My goal is to remove the old stuff, seam seam what needs to be seam sealed, then epoxy prime and apply Raptor Liner to the cab underside.
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Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
How are you going about cleaning the underside? Grinding, sanding?
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I'm afraid I am going to eventually burn out the Porter Cable grinder, but it's still hanging tough... |
Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
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Another outstanding weekend and I was able to get the remaining cab corner supports welded on and the bottom of the cab epoxy primed. The Upol epoxy primer sprayed very well and went on smooth without any issues. I will seam seal the weld seams and gaps, then spray the Raptor Liner hopefully next weekend.
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I worked at a shop back in the day and did a lot of grinding, we killed every grinder except the Makita. Now thats all I'll buy. |
Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
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I took a day off yesterday and decided to take advantage of the clear skies and 85 degree weather and apply the Raptor Liner to the underside of the cab. It went on pretty good and quickly.
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Another shot right after the application.
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Looks great.
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Better than new! Looks really good.
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Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
looking great! Good job
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very nice. I took a real liking to the raptor liner...I sprayed the insides of my bumpers with it. Coated the fender emblems with it...as well as the bed. very versatile stuff.
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Really good progress. If I didn't know, I'd guess that you had been through this kind of work before. You seem matter of fact, and methodical, and the truck is coming together nicely.
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Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
LT7A, Thanks for the complement but I have only restored a couple MGs and a few motorcycles, nothing to the scale of this truck. I never had to weld like I have on the C10, or use a spray-on bed liner. I have literally watched endless how-tproject. and read through endless posts on this forum, learning all I can so I could work towards completing this project.
After the truck is done, I have a classic Mini to restore, and it is worse off than the truck! |
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So I have been able to get out and work on the truck between entertaining the kids. I finally got rhe chance to clean up the floor a bit, now to clean up the passenger side.
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I have also been working on the bodywork on the driver's side cab corner. I will get the final sanding on it when I block the cab.
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I really debated on whether to recreate the old panel seams on the rocker at the A & B pillars, I elected to eliminate them for a cleaner look. Driver's side is the same.
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Looks super clean! Good stuff:metal:
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Looks great. Good work.
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Thanks for the complements everyone. I will pick up steam again after Memorial Day. I want to sand the passenger side floor so I can get a good coat of epoxy primer down.
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Looks great! |
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So once again the weather was really great! We just got back from St.Augustine, FL and it seemed like a good day to get to sanding the passenger side floor. There was a pretty good amount of surface rust under the paint. This didn't surprise me as I was told by my wife that her dad would wash out the inside of the truck's cab with a hose. He believed that as it was a work truck, that was an acceptable method to clean it.
So after some sanding, I hit the floor with some Rust Mort...that is definitely some potent stuff. I will let that do its thing overnight and hit the floor with the self etching primer. I will eventually spray the floor with the epoxy primer to better seal it. after that I will work on the upper portion of the floor (inside firewall) and epoxy prime that as well. |
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I forgot to mention that I am retiring the Muncie 3 speed that came with the truck. I decided to go with this Muncie M20 4 Speed. I picked it up rebuilt, and I believe from the numbers on the case it is a '67 or '68. I was also able to pick up this Hurst Competition Plus shifter for under $100, and also got the shifter handle that will work with the bench seat. I'm going to try and use the reverse light switch made for the M20, according to the multimeter, it works great!
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Making further progress on the floor and interior firewall area. had to stop to apply more Rust Mort. Once it dries, I will lightly scuff and paint with etching primer.
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Not sure why the pics were upside-down and sideways, it is what it is I guess...
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This is the shifter install kit you need , The difference between this one and the one I used is your trans shift arms attach using a stud and nut were mine is attached using 3/8 bolts other than that they are the same kit. watch the video I sent you a link to and he will show the difference . :chevy:
install link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaQw...PsyqqE&index=2 https://www.holley.com/products/driv.../parts/3733163 you may want to use these also and save your old ones in the glove box . https://www.5speeds.com/cart/index.p...&product_id=76 |
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:chevy:
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Getting rid of the seams in the door opening of the cab. This way I do not have to worry about seam sealing them or moisture getting into them. Besides, it is a very subtle difference that only a 67 - 72 C10 owner would notice...it's just a cleaner look.
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I think the floor is done, except for the epoxy primer and Lizard Skin.
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Just about done with the driver's side of the cab. Actually turned out nicely, but there is just a little fine tweaking to do when I do the block sanding.
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Looks excellent :thumbs:
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