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-   -   My 1967 Build (Finally) (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=830809)

OneOffStroker 05-10-2022 05:15 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Just wanted to mention real quick about your transmission choice and some things that go with it: with the 4L60 (700R-4) it is essential to have the TV cable adjusted PERFECTLY or you will turn the insides of the trans to silly putty within the first few miles. Spend the extra money to get a factory-style cable with the ratchet action and the reset button...the Lokar style cables are nice, but difficult to adjust correctly. The other option is to buy a constant-pressure valve body from TCI that ensures the trans will survive if the cable comes out of adjustment.

Finally, with your choice to go to a 30" tire to fill the fender gap better, you may only spin like 1600ish at 65mph (assuming your rear gear is the fairly standard 3.08 that these trucks came with.) That sounds good and all, but I can tell you from experience with my '69 Suburban 5.3LS/4L60E/3.08/31" tire it got absolutely terrible MPG on the highway. I figured that low revs would get better mileage, but it turns out I was quite wrong. A mild V8 will get best mileage at efficient torque, and that is ~2300rpm. So I'd recommend getting a 4.11 gearset (~2200rpm @ 65mph) or keeping the 3.08 and driving in 3rd gear, not overdrive (~2300rpm)

KyleSeal 05-10-2022 08:11 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by OneOffStroker (Post 9077455)
Just wanted to mention real quick about your transmission choice and some things that go with it: with the 4L60 (700R-4) it is essential to have the TV cable adjusted PERFECTLY or you will turn the insides of the trans to silly putty within the first few miles. Spend the extra money to get a factory-style cable with the ratchet action and the reset button...the Lokar style cables are nice, but difficult to adjust correctly. The other option is to buy a constant-pressure valve body from TCI that ensures the trans will survive if the cable comes out of adjustment.

Finally, with your choice to go to a 30" tire to fill the fender gap better, you may only spin like 1600ish at 65mph (assuming your rear gear is the fairly standard 3.08 that these trucks came with.) That sounds good and all, but I can tell you from experience with my '69 Suburban 5.3LS/4L60E/3.08/31" tire it got absolutely terrible MPG on the highway. I figured that low revs would get better mileage, but it turns out I was quite wrong. A mild V8 will get best mileage at efficient torque, and that is ~2300rpm. So I'd recommend getting a 4.11 gearset (~2200rpm @ 65mph) or keeping the 3.08 and driving in 3rd gear, not overdrive (~2300rpm)

Very good information. I ordered a ratchet style "OE" one from Summit that seems to be good quality, and will more than likely have a few of my buddies more familiar with the 700's help me set the correct adjustment.

As to the tires and the gearing, I appreciate the info - I am currently at a 3.73 gear, so guesstimation tells me ~2000 RPM or so? Im curious how this gearing would work out, but I suppose if its not deep enough of a gear then I can always just swap it out. Kind of would like an excuse for a LS or posi.

67km1590 05-10-2022 11:40 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
[QUOTE=KyleSeal;9074547]Before I install everything, I'm going through doing the Eastwood prep stuff, internal cavity / frame coating on pillars, supports, inner rockers etc., and while I waited to dry I visited a local junk yard that has a few 67-72's, this 67 GMC was rather clean, grabbed some stuff off it for the heck of it.

The GMC wasn't a 4X4 by any chance? I see it's a V6 and I'm looking for some engine mount parts that are 4X4 only.

KyleSeal 05-10-2022 02:16 PM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 67km1590 (Post 9077572)
The GMC wasn't a 4X4 by any chance? I see it's a V6 and I'm looking for some engine mount parts that are 4X4 only.

It was not fortunately. I say fortunately because the next day I went to grab some other stuff it was flatter than the heel on my cowboy boots. I knew that junkyard pretty well front to back, no 4x4 67-72s that I was aware of.

67km1590 05-10-2022 03:00 PM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Thanks for the reply, I'm building a '67 KM 1500 truck back all original and I'm missing the V6 engine mount stands. Your truck is coming along really nice, I've been following since my cab needs the same areas repaired as yours but will need a complete floor pan.

KyleSeal 05-16-2022 10:24 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
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Closing in on the passenger side repairs. Had to make some adjustments as normal, everything lines up well, will post more in depth photos as I close in. The aftermarket cab corners are OK - if you're replacing most of it. If not, the bottom edges of the cab corner are miles off. I ended up taking my old cut off one and just cutting out the rot, blasting the inside and using the flat section of the cab corner to fill the void. Also cut out the rear floor pan section. Seems to line up well there, minimal shaping needed. Will post more photos when I get back to it this week.

Went to a Koe Wetzel concert Saturday night, was good to get out of the shop and around some friends to have a good weekend night. :metal:

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Chevys4life 05-16-2022 12:34 PM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Subscribed!!!

KyleSeal 05-18-2022 08:09 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
2 Attachment(s)
Test fitting the inner rear floor pan / skin on the passenger side, fits really well, as compared to the new rear cab crossmember, it fits as expected. Some holes are off a tad, but I can modify that and cover with carpet. Once I have this panel prepped properly I'll get it burned in.

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KyleSeal 05-18-2022 08:17 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
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Once I got the inner rear floor structure set, I cleaned up the cab corner. Man, did this fight me. The old skin was dented and bent, and I didn't care too much to straighten it as this is just a patina truck and will be driven a lot. But the amount of pin holes, blow through, all kinds of headache. But finally got it in, cleaned up and got the inside rather cleaned up (wearing my heart on my sleeve showing those welds) and will seam seal that all up so it has better longevity. I normally use the Eastwood High Solids black. Haven't had a problem with it. Once cleaned up I did the normal U-Pol #8 Acid Etch primer.

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72 tigger 05-18-2022 11:54 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Great craftsmanship! Looking good

KyleSeal 05-19-2022 08:01 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 67km1590 (Post 9077636)
Thanks for the reply, I'm building a '67 KM 1500 truck back all original and I'm missing the V6 engine mount stands. Your truck is coming along really nice, I've been following since my cab needs the same areas repaired as yours but will need a complete floor pan.

Thanks for following along! Hopefully you find some mounts - I'll keep an eye out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chevys4life (Post 9079720)
Subscribed!!!

Welcome aboard!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72 tigger (Post 9080489)
Great craftsmanship! Looking good

Thank you! Im learning, trying to be more skillful and get this project done while doing it.

KyleSeal 05-19-2022 08:09 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
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Went home on lunch yesterday and seam sealed over the welds where they were varying heights, to fill the void and moisture seal after the primer. I didnt grind these welds down as I didnt want the metal to be too thin, as it already is, and this area isnt necessarily seen, it will be covered by a speaker plate and the underside will be coated in a texture finish Raptor Liner.

Next I positioned my rear passenger floor pan for the final time, and got it mostly burned in. Didnt want to warp the floor with too much heat so Im going to split this over two days (I work all day and have a few hours in the after-work-period to get these things done).

Also, did I mention I have a fear of metal shifting while welding? Well thats where my large collection of clamps comes in. This doesnt even scratch the surface as to how many I have, God may not even know how many I have collected over the years :smoke:

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KyleSeal 05-20-2022 08:22 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
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Welds on the cab corner were all ground and blended in, and did all the final stitching for the rear floor piece. This weekend I plan to grind the seam on the rear floor flat, and do final prep and prime of the rocker for installation, then its just buttoning up a few things in the front and I'll be moving on to the drivers side for repair. Once the drivers side is done I plan to undercoat, as I may have stated before.

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KyleSeal 05-23-2022 08:43 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
4 Attachment(s)
Update from this weekend. Blended the welds down for the rear floor section, and went through and did some seam sealing on the inner body skin and the rear floor to see how I like the new SEM 2 in 1 and it works very well. Spreads easy but does not seem to sag or run.

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KyleSeal 05-23-2022 08:59 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
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Installed the square nuts and seam sealed all around to get everything set in place so I can do final primer, and install the rocker permanently. I am being very meticulous about this as I hear horror stories all the time, and I want to do this once. Did final mock up of the rocker to see where my weld-thru will need to be applied, and not pictured, but I sandblasted the rocker to remove all of the weak e-coat, and I will etch primer and then put some red oxide primer as well for when I do my faux-tina.

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72 tigger 05-23-2022 08:22 PM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Should last at least 50 years

KyleSeal 05-25-2022 08:04 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
2 Attachment(s)
Fell off the deep end and sandblasted the rocker bolts, and sandblasted the rocker to get rid of any potentially weak e-coat, and primered with self etching primer.

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KyleSeal 05-25-2022 08:09 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
3 Attachment(s)
Once I was finished sandblasting, I prepped the inner face of the rocker and sprayed some 'red oxide' primer to kind of mimic the factory base primer, but also for added protection. I then primed the inner rocker, a-pillar and b-pillar. Unfortunately ran out of my gray self etching primer, so I will be postponed one day on install of the outer rocker. In the mean time I will prep the inner rocker's spot weld areas and treat them with weld-thru, do one last fitment and burn it in.

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KyleSeal 05-25-2022 09:05 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 72 tigger (Post 9082784)
Should last at least 50 years

Thats the intent! :metal:

LT7A 05-25-2022 11:07 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
I like hearing your explanations and thought process. Doesn't seem like it's your first build. I've never had to go through this rust repair process and I don't know if I would have the patience and would have to develop the skills as I went through it. I think you're doing a nice job of it.

KyleSeal 05-26-2022 08:11 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
3 Attachment(s)
Last night, though small in scale as far as complicated work, was a big night. I began install of the outer rocker. No going back now.

I started by, after primer, installing loose and finding all of the spot weld areas, took them to bare metal with a roloc red scotch brite pad and cleared some of the area around. Clearing the area around allowed me to spray weld-thru and ensure it would coat the bare areas in the process of welding (weld thru turns the metal galvanized to my understanding). I did this to both sides of the spot weld areas, to ensure good burn in and (hopefully) longevity.

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KyleSeal 05-26-2022 08:15 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
4 Attachment(s)
And after some fitting and minimal shaping, the rocker is in. I kind of hopped around while welding, to dissipate heat and ensure the rocker wasnt getting out-of-whack during the job. It fits well - the rocker to cab corner area is a bit off, but none more than the factory would have been, so Im okay with it. The intent with the truck comes down to the word 'close'. I want it all close, too clean and it would be out of place, this is a patina-drive-anywhere truck, not a show stopper.

Im happy with it all. :chevy:

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Also, burned in the front floor pan and kick panel, I need to grind it down, which Ill do on one of my grind-days.

KyleSeal 05-26-2022 08:18 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LT7A (Post 9083351)
I like hearing your explanations and thought process. Doesn't seem like it's your first build. I've never had to go through this rust repair process and I don't know if I would have the patience and would have to develop the skills as I went through it. I think you're doing a nice job of it.

Thank you! Ive certainly been around this stuff for a while, you really learn a lot working on various conditions of metal. The best thing to do is practice, which can sometimes be the hardest thing to do. But once you've got it down, you feel like no problem is too big!

KyleSeal 05-27-2022 08:16 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
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Another item I plan to install on this truck are the PB hood hinges, for whenever I get around to bagged stuff, and this inner dash / cowl area was very clean, with the exception of where a few pieces of sheet metal go together, there was a small 'rip' in the metal. Slowly cut away until what you see here. Still deciding if I should remove that brace and clean further or use some of my methods to clean while in the truck.

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KyleSeal 05-31-2022 08:06 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
5 Attachment(s)
Back after the long weekend. Got a good amount done, started on the passenger side, tore it down to get a loose idea of what needs to happen. Pictures for reference.

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KyleSeal 05-31-2022 08:14 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
5 Attachment(s)
Removed a section of the pan to access the cab mount plate, removed the plate and cab support, found that the main rail that the cab support and firewall brace to had lost its spot welds, I decided to just weld the outsides of the seams to ensure it doesnt do this again. I also actually like the Eastwood door pin pieces, they work well if the door needs to come off and on frequently for checks. But beware, the drill bits supplied are weak and like to snap. I used one of my Mac drill bit sets instead.

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KyleSeal 05-31-2022 08:20 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
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Removed all of the outer rocker and inner kick panel that was pretty compromised, Im rather surprised that this area was complete, obviously very pitted. The outer rocker was actually not spot welded in place whatsoever aside from maybe 1.5 :lol:

Fixed up the top plate from all the beating and spot weld cutting, kind of did a number on it. I later got it in primer and headed out to the water.

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KyleSeal 06-02-2022 08:17 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
5 Attachment(s)
Progress is slower than usual, waiting on paint and seam sealers to dry always piles up into a ton of time. Regardless, got the front support burned in, top plate as well, and seam sealed in that joint to keep out all the things that killed the first one.

While I waited for paints to dry there, I did one full can treatment of the inner frame coating from Eastwood, and it worked well (pictured is the a-pillar). I take a drier duct cleaning tool to remove loose dirt, rust and scale where I cant reach. I also use a straight wire to guide the hose into the channel, as it comes wrapped in a coil. Also pictured are some of the paints and such I use in rusty original areas.

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KyleSeal 06-03-2022 09:20 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
4 Attachment(s)
Placed and welded in the drivers side floor pan last night, went it pretty well - the outer portion of the pan, where the rocker, kick panel, and a-pillar fit together is seemingly stamped about .5inch off to the rear. I will just install the inner rocker piece in that area and stitch weld it together. I used the block of wood with a bolt through the cab support to hold the pan tight to the support plate to minimize the amount of gap, and avoid pushing down with a hammer handle.

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KyleSeal 06-06-2022 09:14 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
2 Attachment(s)
Started fitting the innrer and outer rocker and making sure the kick panel and a-pillar pieces were going to line up well, this is where sheet metal screws come in handy. Found that the replacement floor pan piece is quite off where the kick panel kind of 'swoops' into the inner rocker, so I cut that section away in favor of the replacement inner rocker piece that fits better, also the cab support holes on the new inner rocker piece are far more in line with the factory holes.

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KyleSeal 06-09-2022 10:18 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
5 Attachment(s)
The slllloooowwwww side of everything. Measuring, notation, fitment and treatment. Realizing I didn't want to nail down the front of the patches without at least locating the rear sections, I decided to begin work in the rear of the driver's side. Removal of rear cab support, floor pan and some pieces of the cab corner were in order.

Next I decided to tackle the rust that was pretty rampant throughout the corner and was pretty scaley, and man does that job suck. Wire wheel, roloc pad, DA, sandpaper, all kinds of messy tools. Thinking of investing in a small handheld blaster to tackle this corner, as my portable unit has to spray straight media for at least 5 seconds before building pressure, and in a garage that is a no-go.

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KyleSeal 06-10-2022 08:06 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
4 Attachment(s)
Cab corner hole... square... has been patched! Really went without issue. This corner is kind of tweaked if you cant tell in the photo, which doesnt bother me given the theme here. Spent a good amount of time wire wheeling and broke down and got a handheld siphon blaster, and man what a mess. But it did help me clean up some seams and some deeper rust. I later applied ospho to convert anything I couldnt get down to.

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Scurry67 06-10-2022 08:50 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Excellent work in such a short amount of time. I’m following along.

KyleSeal 06-13-2022 10:42 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
4 Attachment(s)
Boy do I hate waiting on paint to dry :banghead: but slow progress sure beats zero progress. Let the ospho dry good, scraped off the scale and got some rust encapsulator down, and man does it go on well. Bottle sprays well, wide pattern, and hopefully works well.

Waiting for that to dry, I started trimming the b-pillar piece. These new updated ones are great, curvature is awesome and nearly spot on. Those old ones were just expensive coated steel. Noted the old one had a spot-welded wire loom tab, so I cut one out of some 18ga steel from an old patch, spot welded, and used electrical shrink wrap to replicated factory look. I will paint all these treated areas body color and overspray like the factory lazily did :lol:

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KyleSeal 06-13-2022 11:23 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Scurry67 (Post 9089291)
Excellent work in such a short amount of time. I’m following along.

Thank you. Trying to get it on the road and enjoy it some before car show season ends!

KyleSeal 06-14-2022 08:09 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
3 Attachment(s)
Fitted and welded the rear driver section of the floor pan. Ground it flush, spot welded the back wall of the cab to its lip the same way, I am going to clean up the scars from the spot weld areas and just leave them, no sense in color matching that area if no one will see.

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KyleSeal 06-15-2022 08:06 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
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Like they say, do one thing a day to your project vehicle. Installed the b-pillar piece fully, ground flat. After that I went off to see the new Top Gun. :uhmk:

KyleSeal 06-22-2022 09:00 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
5 Attachment(s)
Wow, I must say this drivers side rocker is all kinds of off. The passenger side rocker needed just a bit of massaging but this side needs a good amount. Got the rear of it settled last night and fit well.

Also received my wiring harness from 'MCB Matt', American Autowire. Great company with a great product and MCB carries it at a great price.

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Captain X 06-27-2022 05:15 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
Is this wiring a replica of the original, or a modernized version?

KyleSeal 06-27-2022 08:15 AM

Re: My 1967 Build (Finally)
 
So this is a classic update harness, so all connectors replicate the factory styling, really nice solid connectors, and upgrades to HEI and internally regulated alternator.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain X (Post 9095228)
Is this wiring a replica of the original, or a modernized version?



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