Re: Wiring in a larger alternator
 

Something to keep in mind. The factory battery meter looks at voltage at the alternator and the fuse link block. Changing length or gauge of wire between the two will affect the sensitivity of the guage. Adding load at the fuse link block will affect accuracy as the added load at the block mimics a charging battery. You appear to be doing things correct by modifying the wire from to the main splice in the harness to the alternator. Just be aware that that main wire from splice to fuse link block is not as simple as it appears relative to the battery meter functionality.

Re: Wiring in a larger alternator
 

Nothing yet, I was sent the wrong alternator... Still waiting.

Re: Wiring in a larger alternator
 

Does anyone know the correct "lengths"? My harness is/was all sorts of hacked up and the lengths I currently have set up are from what I already had. Also should I change from the anmeter to a volt meter?

Re: Wiring in a larger alternator
 

Some say go to volt meter. I like the battery meter as it let's me know instantly if I am discharging. A volt meter with lead correctly placed on the harness is also useful in a different way. I am sorry I do not recall the length. I would guess guage is more critical as it will affect resistance more than a added or shortened foot of wire. Less resistance dulls the gauge reaction but that can be useful if you have super high loads (pumps, fans and amps) on the main splice that could pin the guage if alternator is not spinning. It could also overheat that jump from main splice to fuse link block. The same critically gauged and length wire we are talking about.
My solution was to up the guage size. It dulls my meter but I do not pin the gauge if the fans were running and motor not.

Re: Wiring in a larger alternator
 

I had read on here that all the current going to the headlights go through the switch. Another good test is check the voltage at the headlight sockets. That between dirty connections and lots of wire voltage can drop to below 11 volts at the lights. I added a relay headlight kit and it made a huge difference. Plus it takes a big load off of the switch and original harness especially if running halogen lights.

Re: Wiring in a larger alternator
 

I finally got the new alternator installed. No issues and it does exactly what I hoped it would. It puts out 14.4 volts at a 650 RPM idle with the heater, AC, stereo and headlights with high beams all on.

Re: Wiring in a larger alternator
 

With the condition of your harness you would be smart to go with a volt meter. The factory amp meter and associated circuitry is a balanced system. So if you got the right lenght and the wrong guage of wire it would affect the accuracy of the amp meter.

I up-sized my wiring for 100 amp alternator I installed. After completing the installation I found my factory amp meter worked but the needle only moved about a 1/32" when starting the engine or immediately afterwards. It was impossible to see if I was charging or not while driving with such a small amount of movement. I'm sure with some experimenting with resistors I could have made it operational again but it was much simpler to install a squarebody volt meter instead.

Re: Wiring in a larger alternator
 

Congratulations! Good work and thanks for the update on your success.

Re: Wiring in a larger alternator
 

Great outcome and thanks because I learned some stuff from this thread.