Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I used the rev 2 old sarg. (skymangs) body mounts. Which I thought would give a level bed with no bed depth loss, but I am using a 2001 frame so may be a little different in rear frame height. I need to take some pictures and upload so others can learn from my suffering.:lol:

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Its a good idea to tack weld and test the height with everything together before final welding. I took my cab and front fenders apart maybe four times before finally welding the four cab mounts and the radiator mount. Only takes a couple of screws to attach the front fenders, core support, and cab enough to test adjust. Also keep in mind you'll be putting some rubber supports under the cab. Mine added 3/4" to the height measurement.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks for the advice. I am using the s10 cab mount bushings and have like you had it together and apart multiple times already. Here are pictures of how I mounted the tank in case anyone is interested.
[IMG]https://thumb.ibb.co/ivTAeG/IMGP0605.jpg[/IMG]

https://thumb.ibb.co/koC3zG/IMGP0607.jpg

Note the new cross member is still held in place by c-clamps.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

my mounts are meant to have s10 body mounts on them

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

skymangs,

Can you provide details on how to fit the original Steering wheel with the gearhead enterprises steering column you discussed.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I am using s10 body mount bushings with your mount design thanks for the dimensions as it sure made getting things right much easier.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I think it just looks like you might have the bed floor higher than you actually need it, I usually set it up so the floor sits on that high point of the frame over (what was) the center of the axle. its a good place for a floor if you are bagging the truck though, where you have it, because you need just the tiniest of a notch to lay out and the pumpkin will actually hit the floor where I set it up.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I've done that on several of my builds. check out sean s -53 Chevy, cecil. basically you gotta buy a new horn retainer, drill 2 5/16th holes in it. be sure to align one hole with the factory feed wire, put the other hole about opposite the first. then you'll need to cut a small tab of 18ga. bend it in a 90deg angle, then weld it to the lower plate in such a way as that 1 piece sticks through the second hole not touching the upper plate. when you put it on, plug the ground into your welded tab. you see on the new column is energized on the top plate and grounded through the bottom. The original column energized the lower and grounded the top. we just need to find a way to reverse it. you will have to take about a 1/2" off the back of the wheel, you can use a grinder, it's just bakelite. I've tried used retainers 3 or 4 times, they never work. clear as mud, huh
for the wheel just shave it flat. I don't have a picture... then I go to the plumbing section of my local hardware store and buy a black rubber 4" pipe cap, to cover the guts of the column. here's some pictures.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

this is what I do with the steam tubes. I just hook a hose straight from the tubes to the back of the wp. I use a 1/8" tap and a 1/8" 90 degree brass elbow with 1/8 NPT threads, never cap the steam tubes, they pull condensation from the heads. they are especially important in the winter!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I hate to burst your bubble, but the actual measurement is 51/4. I've put 5" gauges in and they don't quite fill the space.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hi Guys, I'm exploring my options to do an S10 swap and was wondering if many have left part of the S10 cab floor, firewall, brake assembly and blended the old cab to that? I'm using the stock 4.3 motor and know its recommended to move it back, but if you could use a push fan in front and leave the motor and firewall, it would sure make for a quick swap. Thanks,

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Welcome to the forum KRFitz.

The S10 swap dimensions and mounting points revolve around the center hub of the front wheels. The front fenders need to be centered over the wheels. That then dictates where the radiator and cab are situated in relation to the fenders. Unfortunately, those requirements also mean the engine can't stay where it is. I tried, I failed. Oddly, the moving back of the engine and getting a different drive shaft isn't even the hard part of the swap.

You'll find a few build threads on here, including mine, where parts of the firewall are used from the S10. The brake booster and pedal are also used to make the swap much easier. Definitely read some build threads on S10 swaps. I learned almost everything just from reading the builds here and I now have a running driving truck.

Best of luck with the build!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks for your reply Gigamanx! I totally understand. Is it possible, or advantageous to use all the fire wall with brake/booster,electrical parts, etc, from the S10 and fit onto old cab?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

i have done it, saves a lot of time. this is the result on the latest 41

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/...44df490e_b.jpgIMG_7071 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4550/...6e68927d_b.jpgIMG_7798 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/...100766d5_b.jpgIMG_7808 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4555/...03c4c5a9_b.jpgIMG_7810 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4527/...c1e53643_b.jpgIMG_7831 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4764/...0379049e_b.jpg53903435651__00F3FF95-B2F2-4A50-83B6-5E7D8B59F402 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4767/...a1b694ef_b.jpgIMG_8262 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4610/...f5f2be69_b.jpgIMG_8360 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Great. Thanks for the photos. So really the only portion of the fire wall worth using is where the brake booster and pedal mount?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the HVAC system does not fit, the blower motor would be outside the hood and if you tried to move it inboard the AC evaporator would hit the engine.

even if you wanted to use more, you have to keep in mind what gigamanx says, that the position of the pedals and steering column is not the same between the two trucks, the s10 firewall will be about 8 inches too far forward, the steering and brakes about 4 inches too far inboard and 10 inches too low. it would be a lot of work sectioning things around just to use that one piece of sheetmetal (the s10 firewall).

I have done what you are asking about on a 65, I cut the firewall and floor out of a 65 C10 and cut everything off an s10 except the firewall and the floor. on that truck I had to move the firewall and floor back about 4 inches, and raise the pedals and steering and move the steering outboard to line up with the dash. I was able to keep the whole S10 HVAC on that truck so it was a positive thing to do overall, but moving the steering was a lot of work. since you cant possibly use the HVAC, its better to just cut out the parts you can use.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks. That's all good to know heading into this project. Is there anyway at all of utilizing the AC from the S10? I was hoping to fit it in somehow and not have to buy a Vintage Air set up.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

nope, not that I have found, and I use every part of the buffalo like the native americans. on the last 49 I used a 03 S10 donor and used a 00 tahoe inside box with the air director removed (no vent/floor/defrost switching). the blend door plugged into the s10 wiring and so did the blower, so I put the factory s10 controls in the glovebox. doing it again, I probably wouldnt. I use the vintage air mini systems now.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Anyone know if the 2" spacers that are used for a s10 swap from 5 lug to 6 lug are useful to any other type of swaps or conversions? I just upgraded to a set of 5 lug Ridlers and am trying to find the best place to try to sell them. I may try ebay or something. Just wondering if the lug combo is in high demand elsewhere or if it is a very specific combo.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

depends if they are 5-4.75 or 5-5. 5-4.75 is the bp on all mid sized GM, `and is the most widely used bp on the market. 5-5 is what the big GM's used. that's your fullsize cars. a little more difficult to move, but still very saleable.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

They are the 5x4.75.

Great info thanks! That will help me when I list them.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm collecting parts for my build. I was wondering if this was a correct rear axle for the S10 conversion for an AD truck?

Description:
Rear Axle Assembly
4.3, AUTO, 4X4 3.73 RATIO (OPT GT4), LOCKER
Fits:
2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
(3.73 ratio, opt GT4)

Also, the S10 frame is a 85, do different years matter for the rear axle?

Thanks.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the bravada axle will be 2 inches wider per side than a 2wd, so yes that will work.

year of s10 does not matter, there are only small differences over the run.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Need advice on lowering chassis. I have set my box down onto my 2001 S10 chassis. It looks like the box needs to drop down another 6"- 8". Other than a 2" -3" block to drop the leaf spring, what else can I do to make up the rest? Would be nice to keep from having to raise the bed floor up. What is the tallest (functionally acceptable) lowering block?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

your bed floor location depends on how tall your cab mounts are and what bushings you use on them. if you used skymangs "short" set and stock s10 bsuhings, the bed floor will only be about an inch higher than the angle strips currently on the bed sides, plus the thickness of whatever you use for a floor. its almost an invisible amount of raise. you will not be able to use the stock cross bars that are in your bed right now. with his "tall" set, the floor does not need to be raised at all. to find out where to set your bed, clamp or use jack stands to hold your running boards and the aprons in the right position for the cab, and the apron will tell you the correct position for the bed.


for lowering the rear I like having the s10 leafs dearched at the local spring shop, 4" works nicely for me. you can buy drop leafs, alternatively, or use a 4" block. keep in mind though, with the 4" block the lower spring perch and u bolts can potentially hang lower than the rim, which can be super exciting with a flat. 4" blocks cost almost as much as the local shop charges for dearching. you will need new u bolts, and teh spring shop can make you some of those too.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Great. Thanks for that suggestion of dearching the leaf springs, I will check that out. I have also seen suggested salvaging different springs. I believe the Astro van is the same length and a lot flatter. Thanks

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

what joedoe said, but I like to stay with 2" blocks. the lower you go the closer the bottom of the U-bolts get to the ground. speed bumps become an issue.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I started out with 4" lowering blocks. The bump stop bracket would hit the axle when I hit bumps or deep swales at speed so I cut them down to around 3". Now they are fine. Another thing to consider is your wheel size. Those look like stock size wheels (15" I presume). Larger wheels/tires will fill up the bay and make the bed look closer to wheel since there will not be as much space in between.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Good point on the wheel size. I was more concerned of the gap distance to the ground. I thought if I used a smaller wheel size it would help keep things lower all around to start.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I know these are not the best angles, but they show how my truck sits with appx 3" lowering blocks, stock s10 bed bottom sitting on its stock rails with respect to the frame (I grafted the '54 bed sides to the S10 metal bed bottom).
Rear Wheels are 17" and I believe the rear tires are 255 50's. You are correct that the smaller wheel will bring the truck closer to the ground, but the delta off the ground is only half as much as the total difference in diameter. Both the lowering blocks and the spring rearching will allow you to drop the CG.

Attachment 1787372

Attachment 1787373

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

tlorber did you use the short or tall cab mounts.

this is my 49 truck with the short mounts and 235/75/15 rears, which are 2" taller than a 255/50/17. I usd 3" front springs and 4" dearched leafs. bed done the same as you, the stock s10 floor grafted to the 49 bed.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4518/...d48aa529_b.jpgIMG_5254 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

NICE. So on the front you chopped the spring 3", with no drop spindle? Who's white wall tire are you using here? Thanks,

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the front springs are 3" belltech springs. although I did have to cut a little off the passenger spring to combat the s10 lean.

tires are coker american classics 235/75/15 and 215/70/15 front

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This is when I was running 3" blocks and 2" drop spindles. Leafs and rear were off a 4x4 s10. I mounted body about 3.5" off frame I think, running boards are about 5.5" off ground. Iv hit so many crazy pot holes and drive in PA weather/roads and I would say this is about the lowest I'd wanna go with a static drop. Bags, I go 4" off ground! I run 14" rims and a total of 26" tall tire.

P.S did you cut about 5" off back of frame? I weld angle on the outsides of frame and let the rear bed mounts set on those, super easy to make bed mounts. You want to set your cab height like stated, but that also will dictate the wheel centering. always mount cab first, then got to front clip, then to bed and never final weld till you get it spot on, squared and level. take a look at all angles cause sometimes the front will look funny at a certain angle, esp if mounted too high.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Skymangs
What size of the square tubing was used to make the cab mounts?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

i don't use square tube. follow the instructions on the first page of two. they're much stronger than square tybe.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Skymangs,

With the S10 brake set up, do the old dash to firewall support rods become trash or are they still used?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

still used. read the early posts very carefully.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

[QUOTE=skymangs;6723893]I've been asked lots of questions about how I get these S10 swaps done so quickly, and how to do "x" or "y"... I want to start this thread detailing as much as I can on the nuts and bolts of S10 frame swaps, parts lists, pics, and any other frequently asked questions out there. To start this off, there are basically three options I see as easily attainable for an S10 frame swap. Keep the stock 4.3L, go small block, or go LS1. I will start off with small block parts, as these are by far the most popular conversion.

What is the part number from speedway for the headers?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I no longer use the conversion headers. I use early Camaro exhaust manifolds, or if you have to have headers, just get block huggers.