Re: Daverods project 66
 

Jason did a really good job building that kit. I wish I could have afforded it. Maybe you should just send it to me since i have his front raised crossmember.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

what you can do is cut out wholes with a holesaw in your carrier bearing crossmember. run your tubes through there and use turndowns.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Jason makes a kit for the 73-87 now, looks really good, built a little diffrent then Daves. It has a parrelle 4 link with a watts behind to keep the axle centered.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

So they just dump out under the truck. In front of the rear wheels? My old cross member is coming out. You get a new one with the kit.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

That's why I did mine this way. Make the exhaust routing easy. :smoke:

http://belair.smugmug.com/photos/640494839_BkEYx-M.jpg

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Ya I'm stealing your idea.:lol: I like the look. Have any extra bezals? Damn, looked on ebay their proud of those things.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I'm still confussed on the pinon thing. Do I want the diff to point down 3 degress? I can't really change the angle of the trans. can I. If I look at my 64 it looks as if the diff. is pointing up. I still need to get a digital level so I can see what's really going on. If the rear of the trans. is pointing down then I want the diff. pointing up, right?:confused: Can I even weld the tabs on my axle or do I have to wait to set the engine/ trans, so I know what that angle is?

Re: Daverods project 66
 

if you don't mind it loud, just dump it after the cab;)

Nice work BTW :thumbs:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Nice progress Dave:metal:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Dave what you need to do is set your truck to what your ride hight is going to be. Set your pinion angle of the trans up 2-3* Then with the rear set at ride height you will set the pinion angle down 3*. The reason you do this is because the slip yoke in the trans will push in when lowering and raising. I asked Jason what he set his to when I was doing the front of mine at ride height and he said 3* on both. just opposet of eachother. hope you understand.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Also when setting ride height you need to make sure that the carb is as level as can be then set your pinion anges from there.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

So it's sounding like I have to have the engine and transmission in before I can weld my tabs on the axle?:waah: Or can I just set the axle to the stock length at ride height, set it level, then use the swing arm bars on the side to change the angle after I get the engine trans in. It seems that adjusting the nuts on the swing arms will change the pinion angle? The tabs on top are welded on to the axle tube the swing arms are welded on to the bottom so adjustin the bottom must rotate the axle? I would like to finish the rear end without having to mounting my engine or trans.;)

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Stupid question. The exhaust is on the inside of the frame how do you get it to the outside. You can't go under so you must go over. I was just wondering where.:uhmk:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

No question is too stupid. Not asking is stupid.

I haven't quite figured that out yet. If I have to I'll make it go through the frame, but will reinforce it where the hole will be. I have to look at it again since I have it back on the lift. Maybe turn it out after the front wheels where the frame is higher. I'm putting block hugger shorty headers on it, so that will make it easier.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Dave I wrote to Jason on the other forum trying to figure out what the pinion is supposed to be set at witht he 2 peice driveshaft. I forgot that's what yall have to have with this kit. I'm only running a 1 peice with my truck so it's a lot easier to work with. When I find out I'll get back with you. but what Dennis said about cutting through the frame is really easy, you just have to go back in and put metal around where you cut. I've thought about doing the same thing. but I'll have to see.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I'm going to raise my bed so I don't have to cut the frame. Cutting a hole that big in the frame would scare me. Don't you think adjusting the nuts on the swing arms will change the pinion angle? Maybe it just moves the axle back? Guess I'll just tack it and see what happens.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Ya baby. I was kind worried if I had my notch in the right spot or not. Got room to spare. I just looked at the pictures to get it in the right spot. Did'nt really measure anything.:lol:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Nice job Dave :metal: Make sure your diff is square with the frame. Find an alignment hole in the frame that is in the same spot on both sides. Measure to the axles from those holes to make sure your axle will be aligned, or you will be crabbing down the road. :uhmk:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I see what your talking about now on the lower link bars, By adjusting the threade rod end will change the pinion angle. I wont push the alxe back or bring it up since the top will be in the same spot regardless, just rotated either way. As far as cutting a whole in the frame. that's not a problems as long as you box around the frame in that area and add some plate on the outside or inside of the frame rail. I've seen others do it that way.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Check it.:metal: Got to love the background music and quaility camera work. Damn I watched it about 3 times and it gave me a woodie.:four::smoke:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Adjusting the lower links will change your pinion angle, but it will also change your axle center-line in relation to your notches...it would be best to get your pinion close and just make some fine tuning adjustments with the adjustable links

COOL VIDEO!!

Re: Daverods project 66
 

loooks good man I just watched it 3 times but didn't get a woodie, maybe I should watch it some more.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

:lol: I know now what I'm I going to do all winter?

Still looking for ideas. Thanks Joe

:metal: Thanks Allan

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Ya It might take you a few more times. You're kinda use to this stuff.:lol: I'm a virgin. Guess I was kinda premature.:lol:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

from the looks of the clip it seems to be working good , changing the pinionangle using the treaded rods should be possible but to move it down you need to lengthen to bottom one and shorten the top one , that way to axle stays where it is , the arc of travel might change a bit when there not parralel bars
i wonder if the angle is needed with the bars because its a pretty solid connection to the frame , usually they use the angle on leafsprings so it straightens when the leafs wind up under accelleration

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I just set it by eye and tacked it for now. When I know for sure I'll weld it on for good. I'm sure I can get a few degree's just by turning the nuts on the arms. I does'nt have much of an arc. It moves pretty much up and down. I don't think the pinion angle is as critical when your using a two piece driveline. There's twice as many u joints. I can always raise or lower the carrier bearing. Have to do some more research.;)

Re: Daverods project 66
 

It is even more critical with a 2 piece drive-shaft, and more complicated. You don't want any of the joints at 0 degrees of the will wear out prematurely

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Adjust the angle to the center joint. It should be in faze that way. Also I looked at my truck and there's lots of room to put the exhaust pipes from the block huggers along the inside of the frame to where the frame kicks up. Then cross over from there. Remember I have a 73 rear part of the frame, but I looked at the back half of my old frame and it looks like you can do the same thing.

http://belair.smugmug.com/photos/668936973_DDGaP-M.jpg

http://belair.smugmug.com/photos/668937801_V2Vcz-M.jpg

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Lots of room. So I guess you can go under. Now all I need are some bezels for cheap.:lol: I found some mustang ones.:lol: I could'nt.:chevy:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Can I borrow that lift?:lol:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

just thinking :you might be able to find suntin in a boatshop or boatwreckingyard , i can immagine they use those type of exits for water or exaust or sumtin like that

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I don't think we have boatwrecking yards in Idaho.:lol: I'll look on ebay though. Boat exhaust bezels. Worth a look. Got to be cheaper then vette ones. The mustang ones are looking better and better.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Try E-Bay

Re: Daverods project 66
 

E-Bay? ;) I was hoping you had a couple more laying around.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

They aren't from a boat, they're from a 65 Corvette
http://www.corvetteamerica.com/cf/di...xhaust%20bezel

http://www.corvetteamerica.com/image.../lmore2941.jpg

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I've been using my aircompressor to fill my air bags. I was worried about the pressure. Whats the max pressure I should put in them?

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Depending what kind of bags they are, but 150 to 180psi should be OK. 250 to 300psi you might pop them, unless they are Slam Specialties bags. Also it will hop the truck like hydraulics do. My son has a 55 Caddy that he hops with bags. It blows peoples minds hopping a heavy car like that. :metal:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Like I said they sure are proud of them. Must be because there for a "vette". Mustang ones are cheap.;) I like the look of the vette ones though.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Again look in E-Bay. Mustang is a thought also. But I like the Corvette ones better too. They're at a better angle.
http://cdn2.ioffer.com/img/item/814/201/16/24_1.JPG

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I looked on ebay. I saw there's some at a lower price $43 but lets see what they sell for. I'm thinking $100. Ya the mustang ones look cheap. I'm only putting about 120 in my bags so I'm safe. Worried my though. Just did'nt want to hear a big pop.