Re: Daverods 52
 

ahhhhh, been in your shoes kinda. My previous engine (one I put in when I started building my 51') was just a stock engine that I put a cam and intake on yada yada. Thing never had good oil pressure to begin with. I ended up flooding it out a ton because somehow the main vacuum port in the back of my carb got unscrewed. Couldn't figure that out till I switched carbs. It slowly ran worse and eventually blew a main, my oil when squirting right up and over my fenders all over the garage in the dead of winter. SOOOOOOO..... it will feel like it will never get done, but I assure you it will. I am actually sooo glad that happened to me, cause now I know what to look for and I rebuilt my current engine, all but the crank and mains hey time was a factor. I like it and understand it more now. I'm working on a vortec engine too, so hopefully I'll swap them out next year.

Anyway, I'd just take the engine out, pop the heads, make sure your threads are good in the block, put new gaskets in and put more sealant on your threads. I used the white stuff and my buddy just uses rtv black high temp silicon, that stuff is nice and thick, but hard to clean outta threads. Maybe change your oil. Also use break in additive if you have to break the cam in, sux cause all that oil and additive is money wasted if you got water and anti freeze in it.

keep us posted and good luck, your truck will be awesome.

Re: Daverods 52
 

I think I'll just take the engine out of my 66 take the heads off it. Put them back on right. Then swap it to the 52. Good thing is I have some good work coming up. So more parts. Really the head thing just cost time more than anything. Maybe I'll learn how to put heads on right. Think a longer bolt in the head would help?

Re: Daverods 52
 

How can you strip a head bolt?:uhmk::uhmk::uhmk: Got any pictures?

Re: Daverods 52
 

thats what I was thinking,I was at 70,

Re: Daverods 52
 

You need to tap all the head bolt holes and blow them out to clean the threads This is so you get the correct torque, and not strip the bolts :uhmk:
Just a thought incase you didn't know.

Re: Daverods 52
 

yeah strodder made a good point, especially now that you have all that sealant in them, run tap down and blow em out, double check the hole that your bolt was in. Honestly, I'd just buy all new head bolts, old bolts actually stretch and are just weaker. Also torque in steps, 25, 45, 65 for example.

Re: Daverods 52
 

Absolutely, new bolts. :metal:

Re: Daverods 52
 

Damn new bolts are $$..Engines out. Came out fast and easy. Any idea on the tap size?

Re: Daverods 52
 

My god. Head gaskets price any where from 10 to 200. Any ideas on which to use? I think the ones I put on were fel pro i see their the cheapest.

Re: Daverods 52
 

Fel pro is the best. Check the head bolts for the size dummy. :uhmk::lol:

Re: Daverods 52
 

:lol: thats the sad part i am a dummy.Autozone heads bolts 16 a head and 12 for heads gasket.Fel pro nothing but the best.

Re: Daverods 52
 

It could be that your too lazy too look aslo. :haha:

Re: Daverods 52
 

Cleaned out the bolt holes.:smoke: Big diff.

Re: Daverods 52
 

dang dude i need to get out of the 60-66 forums more often!!! dave this truck is sweet!!! i just read the whole thread and dig everything about ur build!! well except for the stripped head bolt =(
cant wait to see it finished man keep it up!!!

Re: Daverods 52
 

:mm:thanks bud. Shoild be getting back on it soon. Just try to make some cash for the winter.:lol::lol:100 degrees and I'm worried about winter.:smoke:

Re: Daverods 52
 

It's alive.:metal: Swapped eninges and heads put the engine back in filled it up with fluids. Today I fired it up.:smoke: Still need to adjust my valves made some cut out valve covers to make it alittle less messy. Only let it run for a min. still need to hook up my pedal,:uhmk:

Re: Daverods 52
 

Sweet
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Re: Daverods 52
 

Awesome, glad to hear you are making some great progress. Good luck!

Re: Daverods 52
 

My 570 carb turned out to be a 870 carb. Guess the ebay seller could'nt see very good. I can relate. Anyways had to get another off ebay. This time it was a 570. Also got a Fulton visor.:mm: And ya I need a new lens for my crappy phone.;)

Re: Daverods 52
 

Gettn it done!!!! Love the visor, were did you find it at? Also as far as being a big dummy... try putting a two piece rear main oil pan on a one piece rear main motor:uhmk: tried this friday night and broke the corner off of an aluminum pan.:waah:

Re: Daverods 52
 

I got it off ebay. Really good condition made out of Al. Just need to paint it a darker color and make it look beat.:mm: Gettin the coffie ready for the folks?:lol:

Re: Daverods 52
 

Ran my engine for about 20. Everything ok. I reved it between 2 and 3. Great for heating up the garage. I ran some hoses for the exhaust. Kinda worried about the temp.210. I was in a garage reving it up for 20. Guess I should finish up my brakes so I can go for a ride.:mm: Put a 650 ? truck avenger on it for now.Might be better for when I start messing with the bags. I see they make a low rider carb.

Re: Daverods 52
 

210 seems on the higher side for me just sitting there. You check your timing? I guess now that your in the initial breakin stage, see what it does at 900rpm depending on what your cam likes for idle. Make sure your waterpump and belts are tight? Glad to hear your running though.

Re: Daverods 52
 

I checked the belts, thermo 195 ,timing at 4 bdc,15 lbs cap, I am running just water? I'm thinking it will be ok. Got it all jacked up this morning,working on the brakes today, flex to converter, trans lines (in bent one already). Front air lines are still leaking I keep tighting them to much and breaking them.:waah:

Re: Daverods 52
 

210 does seem a little hot. Antifreeze should help.:uhmk:

Re: Daverods 52
 

Iv read that water cools better than antifreeze, plus depending where you are at, its mad cold nowdays. I think the problem is somewhere else, too much advance can run you hot. Poor water pump or slipping belt. But I'd rest her at idle and see what she does. Also you have a mechanical fan on it or E fan?

Re: Daverods 52
 

Quoted from Antifreeze Facts.
"Antifreeze is added to your radiator. Antifreeze keeps your radiator fluid from freezing when it is very cold and keeps your car from overheating on very hot days. Antifreeze is commonly ethylene glycol and is designed to lower the freezing point and to raise the boiling point of the radiator fluids."

But it still can be something else. Hard to diagnose with out being there.:uhmk:

Re: Daverods 52
 

there are different factors that can be involved and 210 can be normal depending on the amount of lbs pressure from the cap
a 50/50 mix of e/glycol with raise the boiling point 18 degrees F . for every lb pressure on the cap the boiling point will raise 3 degrees. it could also be the guage, or i should say the way that it readsin a newer vehicle at that temp it would more than likely read normal.
if you have a 15lb cap and 50/50 a/f your system wouldn't boil until it reached 212 + 18
+ 45 = 275 degrees F so 210 would be in the normal operating range
ron
do not confuse the normal boiiling point of water at 212 with what you have under pressure.

Re: Daverods 52
 

padresag, great point. I run a 16lb cap, I feel most aluminum rads being offered come with a 16lb cap. When I ran about 25/75 mix I rarely ever went over 185 with a 185 stat, then I when I added more antifreeze (not sure of the mix now) I'm usually around 190 on average now. Hot days I have gone up to 210-220, which never happened the year before when I was running 25/75. I just wouldn't feel comfortable starting out at 200+. The cap pressure can be extremely high but if your running hot and need more pressure to stay away from overheating, I'd be worried. Again, I'd check temp at idle and make sure you are within cam suggested timing. I'd also check your balancer to make sure it is reading tdc and then double check timing. I'd eliminate every variable I could. I'm sure the engine is fine, but having the piece of mind on what its doing and how it responds to your changes is a great feeling.

Re: Daverods 52
 

back when these vehicles were built cooling capacities were larger, but as time progressed radiators became smaller with smaller front openings compared to earlier vehicles. this is why the pressure was increased to adjust the boiling point(operating temperatures) upwards
ron

Re: Daverods 52
 

good point. daverod. what is your cooling system? sorry if I missed that somewhere, that is why I asked if you were using fan or EFan and what is your rad?

Re: Daverods 52
 

I have water in it. Running a electric fan.

Re: Daverods 52
 

I'll dump it all and put in 50/50. Snow day here so maybe maybe I'll get somthing done.:smoke: Nothing done so far. Lots of thinkin

Re: Daverods 52
 

Check the actual temp and compare it to the gauge reading. I got a little worried when my Chevelle started "over heating". Turned out the gauge or sender has decided to read 15 degrees high (mechanical VDO 12 years old), so now I just do a mental adjustment. I have a commercial restaurant grade dipper tester that I use (do not use your wifes candy thermometer).

Re: Daverods 52
 

What are u waitin for. I'll set up a cot in the garage.:devil:

Re: Daverods 52
 

So where would I put my wifes candy thing?

Re: Daverods 52
 

Right now the temp sender is in the head? That's right.right

Re: Daverods 52
 

That's all I'm worth. At least the couch. : haha:
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Re: Daverods 52
 

when I mounted my fan on the front of the rad I strapped it to some crossbraces I welded in front in the rad. I'm pretty sure I need to ditch the braces and put my fan right up next to the rad.:smoke:

Re: Daverods 52
 

It will read hotter in the head.I put them in the intake manifold close to the thermistat.