Re: 1968
 

Good job, George. Those look a lot nicer than the greasy blobs I put in the mail.

Here's the best pic of the drivers side of the firewall area I took before disassembling Mustard. I believe that's the parking brake cable coming through the firewall to the right of the electrical plug block. It drops down onto the inner fender and runs down to the frame rails under the brake booster.

If you have your parking brake pedal assembly together inside the cab, it basically goes straight through the firewall from the connection point from the pedal assembly. Here's a pic of that, too.

Re: 1968
 

My firewall is clear I will try to get some pictures for you providing it doesn't rain all day.
Did you get both cable brackets with the assembly or are they missing?

Re: 1968
 

I got the bracket that attached to the parking brake itself. Also the bracket that holds the cable to the parking brake. Is there any more that I don't know of. Also can I remove the bracket that the old e brake handle attached to? Under the colum. It seams to ride a litter low. I guess it always rode that low. But you never seen it with the e brake handle installed. Please sent me a picture of yours also. Maybe it is clearier. I see in his picture that he has a support brackety to the booster. Should I mount one? Do anyone have such a bracket arm that they are not going to use? If so I would love to have it.

Re: 1968
 

Yea their was a lot of grease under the bottom of the perches but a litter elbo grease and a sand blaster and paint :waah: looks like new. Thanks so much:chevy:

Re: 1968
 

As far as me sucking it up. I do a lot of sucking it up as it is. My wife is starting to question my motives. But I will get another colum but not today. But before I drive it I will. This colum is a learning tool. If I am to stratch a colum I like it be this one.

Re: 1968
 

The firewall has a rectangular shaped hole for the gromet which is already attached to the new cable you will have to buy so order the new cable then measure for the hole you will need to cut.
If you already have the cable but the gromet is missing then just order a new gromet.
You can see the two cable brackets I am refering to in the picture.

http://i.imgur.com/EnUsJIJl.jpg

Re: 1968
 

nice clean work, that steering column boot is tough !

Re: 1968
 

It's easy when you have the special service tools required to remove and instal the shift tube :lol:
I don't think he intends to use that column though so it would be a waste of money to buy them.

http://i.imgur.com/DHBGV83l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HG1QOtLl.jpg

Re: 1968
 

Today, I helped a friend work on his solar pannels for his swiming pool. So I did not get to work on my truck. But, I did enjoy talking to a fellow board member today. I learned a lot with that phone call. Thanks Bryan. I ordered the grommet, the brake pedal release handle, the pad for the parking brake, a pad for the foot brake. So this way they all will match. This truck is going to look diamite when I am finshed. If the good Lord is willing and the creek don't rise. The picture does show me a lot. I hope to have the brake pedal all nocked up tomorrow morning. The weather is getting real hot here 86today.

I think my parking brake return spring is broken or weak. It doesn't return to the up right position. I will have to work on that before I land.

Re: 1968
 

Been doin some good work! Looks great!
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Re: 1968
 

Today, I finshed installing the E -brake on the truck foot style. I will have to remove the cable when my grommit come in. Piece of cake. Also removed the mounting bracket for the 68 hand brake. Don't need that anymore. Mounted my gas pedal on the fire wall. But I am going to replace it with a 72 style that has a cable. I like that kind better. Mounted the new painted V8 perches on the motor mounts.

Re: 1968
 

The return spring is built into the front cable on the 69-72 (foot operated version), if you are trying to use the 67-68 cable (hand operated version) it wont work properly and you will need to buy the correct cable.

Re: 1968
 

Yea I see what you are saying. So I will get the right cable from a friend that has several of these truck in his bone yard.

Re: 1968
 

I remembered I changed the cable already to a 72. It only needed to be adjusted under neath the truck. It works great now. I also installed the grommit in the fire wall. I also put two small backing plates on the fire wall to support the foot e brake. The grommit came in along with several things I ordered from Classic parts. Most of them will be put up untill needed. I order these parts from speedway. I hope to have them in some time this week. Then I can installed the brakes lines and re-install the motor. then I will be back on track. The grommit has a slit cut into the side. All I had to do was push it in the hole that I cut in the fire wall. very simple. I like simple.

two front brake hoses
2 60'' brake lines 3/16
2 51'' brake lines 3/16
5 30'' brake lines 3/16
1` rear brake hose
1 bag of rail clamps 3/16and fittings

Re: 1968
 

Thanks a lot You see the old man does do something once in a while.

Re: 1968
 

Also you can see the helper spring that I put in the cable. Between the the bracket and the clip. It really did not need it. I figured it out when I got done with the spring. But, I thought I might as well leave it in. I am glad it is out of sight. You can see the scratches I put in the firewall and e brake. I will re-paint the e- brake again but the scratches in the firewall well they will be covered with sound matt.

Re: 1968
 

Today, I repainted the e- brake and the front frame and fire wall. Should have the motor back in, in a few days. I took 4 wiper motors to the repair shop today. The owner is a friend of mine. He is going to build me one good one out of the four. Still no parts showed up today. Thats a bummer. So I a at a stand still on my build untill they come in. I think this is a first for me.

Re: 1968
 

looking good

Re: 1968
 

Today, it rained off and on all day long. So I was thinking about getting the wing windows in order. I took apart the wing window. I need two frames that go around the glass. The part that has the bolt on the botton with the spring. Everything else is in good shape. But, that is the only part I can not buy. I called Tuckers,Classic parts,H&H and LMC and they all say the same thing. The part is not available. Anyone have these parts that want to help me out? I don't want to spend 418.00 plus shipping for a simple part like this. I already have the rubbers.

Re: 1968
 

thanks a lot hotrod. I try.

Re: 1968
 

Let me take a look at mine and see what they look like, I bought some chrome ones from Bobs Vintage Truck in Lenexa so my old ones are up for grabs, I dont know how long it will be before I can get to it though because I wasn't planning on messing with it for a couple weeks.

Re: 1968
 

Well, where do I start. First, I could not wait for the brake line and fittings to come in. I went to our local parts house and purchased the ones I needed.
I did not buy the ones that fit on the master cly. I can change them when the others get here. I did not want to waste anymore time waiting on someone else's time frame. I ran all my brake line from front to rear except the rubber lines. They can be replaced any time. Then I re-installed my motor AGAIN. Now I can mount the front clip back on the truck tomorrow. I called my Brother-In-Law tonight. Made plans for him to come up from Leigh Acres, Florida.To start doing my fine tuning on the body work. Now I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. . The other day someone turned it out on me.

Re: 1968
 

I might have to change the water pump back to a short shaft. I will find out tomorrow. When I mount the front clip back on the truck. It might be too close to the radiator now. I changed it to the long nose when I was 4 inches back. But maybe it still will be ok.

Re: 1968
 

The fan blades should be half in and half out for it to be correct so if its all the way in then you will have to go back to the short.

Re: 1968
 

Glad to see you have a set time with the brother-in-law. As fast as you've been going I wonder how fast you'll fly when he get there.:metal:

Re: 1968
 

Years ago I tried running a long nose water pump on Mustard but it didn't work. If I recall correctly, the issue was with the pulleys not lining up, though. You must've already gotten past that though, so hopefully it'll work out.

Re: 1968
 

Thanks for the information about the distance to the radiator. I didn't get to mount the front clip back on the truck. Maybe tomorrow and then i will see what the distance is.

Re: 1968
 

I will be working on his schedule so I am not going to rush him. Also on his dime so again his schedule. I will be his goffer. Go foe this and go foe that. But stay tuned. He is coming up when the kids are out of school. He also adophted some kids (3) It is in the water I guess. So If you come down here bring some water. That way you want have to drink the adopthted water.

Re: 1968
 

No I haven't got the trouble solved with the pully's lining up. I am looking into replaceing the long nose with the short nose. I have the short nose also. I changed it out when I thought the difference was too far from the radiator. But, now I am sure I am going to use the short nose. So thanks for the information about your trouble with the long nose.

Re: 1968
 

So, back to what I did today on my patches. I installed the cross member on the transmission. Bolted the transmission mount to the cross member. The upper support to the cross member both sides. If I do this again I will use the tublor style cross member.
I can't stand all the bolts that is nessarary for the OEM to work. In this case GM did not have a good idea. 14 BOLTS It took me about 2 hours to line up everything. The thing is to leave all bolts loose before you start tighten any of them up.

I also ordered two lines pre bent for the port valve. I don't like the way I bend the lines. Here is the pipe bender I have what a borshion this thing is. (Spelling)

Re: 1968
 

Just catching on your build... Looking good friend. I think I'm just as anxious to see it painted as you are. :-)
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Re: 1968
 

I don't think so. I have what you call the 10 month itch. The color just can't seem to catch up with me. I am itching to see color myself. But, I am closer than I was 10 month ago. That is what I keep telling myself. But thanks for reading. I post more pictures than comments.

Re: 1968
 

Today Is Saturday. I mounted the short nose water pump back on the motor. The long nose made the blades stick all the way inside of the shroud. So I knew that would never keep the motor cool enough. I mounted the front clip back on the truck.
Then I ran my cooling lines from the transmission to the radiator. Then I heard the mail man blow his horn. I knew I had my parts. Well it wasn't the parts I wanted. What came in was the new transmission dip stick and tube and the motor oil dip stick and tube. So I mounted the transmission tube. It should have been the right one. But I made it work. The bracket was in the wrong place. About 4 inch to low. But with a stanless bushing and a longer bolt it worked. I am not sure if I like it. What do you guys think?
The front clip went back on without a hitch. It should for I have done it enough.

Re: 1968
 

Do you think I have enough clearence for the distributor now. I can throw a bull between the firewall and the back of the motor.

Re: 1968
 

It looks like the Transmission tube works just fine after your modification.
The truck looks great man.

Re: 1968
 

George, do you already have the driveshaft attached. How did the engine get so far foward? You have made some good progress, but I'm thinking that moving the engine that far forward i'snt a good idea. I think your going to have alot of fitment issue from the fan to the driveshaft.

Re: 1968
 

Hes got the engine in the factory V8 position.

Re: 1968
 

Guys: I was thinking today as I was resting. How would it work If I movied the motor back about 1 1/2 inches. Here is a picture of where the perches are now. The perches still look like they are setting about 1 1/2 inches to far forward. They are not resting fully on the cross member. So If I movied them half the distance back wouldn't that make the perches rest fully on the cross member.

Re: 1968
 

Here is where I think I might move them. I have cut a circle out of a piece of white paper and placed it on the new spot. Guys am I over thinking this or what? I not looking for something to do but, I just don't like the big distance I have now on the firewall.

Re: 1968
 

When I move the motor back it might even work with my drive shaft.