Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Rather refreshing to know that I have been able to provide an idea rather than shamelessly 'borrow' those from others.

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well it was a great idea! and I did it, see below for updated photos.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so on the idea from Paul Y and others, I finished the install of the Fuel and return lines. See pics and found a suitable location for the Pressure Reg.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

More...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Note, the Red and Blue tape is there for me to know which is which... it will be removed.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok now onto pics of CaptainFabs Hydra Brake Booster and Hydraulic Clutch Mount and associated parts. I have the main bracket mounted, just need to Drill the hole out (find the center before... should be fun) then test fit. Then start the brake line routes.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

HELP !!!

Ok, as you can imagine.. I have ALOT of parts and well I am trying to get them all set and laid out and well TADA I found two that I am lost as to where the go! Help please!!

I was getting all my brake pedal stuff setout, and ready to assemble with new bushings and all ....

Don't laugh to hard at me... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I think those are both steering column related - I think the elbow shaped one goes on the inner fender and the other one goes in side the cabin where the column goes through.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

60short is correct on the location of those two panels.

The updated pics are looking good!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I love your build, it looks great. The parts have already been identified.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I really appreciate the comments back!! I feel so much better now... lol I was thinking I was going crazy...

For those of you just reading things on the site and thinking of joining, THIS is a perfect example of why you should! There are many on here that are so willing to help and pass along the knowledge and experience.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you Sir! I appreciate the positive feedback! Ill try to keep them coming...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you, I appreciate that! Thank you for also verifying the parts. It is getting exciting for me again. Not that it was not before, just getting to see things together is great, even though I just have to uninstall and then reinstall after paint. lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

It's been a while since I've checked in. You're coming along great and your work is awesome. Keep it up.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Great to hear from you again! Hope all is well with you. It is nice to be back at it again.
Now I am working with the Hydro boost system I bought and making it work with CaptainFab's great Hydro boost and Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder setup. His stuff is just amazing and now I am working with him to make it work right. The issue is with the mounting plate that came with the CPP Beast Hydro Boost. This plate is for universal and has only two holes on it BUT a bunch of dimples that appear to be possible to be drilled holes, and 4 of those line up to CaptainFab's mount, BUT I need to remove that damn Hydro boost nut, so just to make it easy, I ordered CaptainFab's. Then I will look at what way is best to mount it. All this just to figure out how to route my damn brake lines and Hydraulic lines for the Rack-n-Pinion, Power steering pump and Hydro boost. just one more step... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so I have some update pics.
(CaptainFab if please feel free to use any of the pics or info as you wish sir, great damn product!!)

Here are some pics of the Clutch and Brake pedals installed (fully re-built and powder coated) along with CaptainFab's hydro-boost and Clutch Slave Cylinder kit (stuff is amazing that he sells).

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

a few more

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

For the Hydro-Boost I ordered the universal kit from CPP - Beast Kit - With that said, here is a warning... the mount as you can see has 2 holes only, BUT it has dimples in area that perfectly line up with the holes in CaptainFab's mount (which I highly suggest you get, not just because it is a great piece, but because he has taking the painstaking time to develop it to work correctly with these trucks). So, that fact they have dimples tells me that they are there for drilling out what holes you need to mount it. Now that is all great and dandy... except for 1 small issue ..... HOW DO YOU GET THAT DAMN SPECIAL NUT OFF!! Well again, Thank you to CaptainFab, he sells a custom made socket to do this. So, just a heads up, if you go Hydro-Boost, either CCP's, or anyone elses, you may need to get this special nut socket. Anyways, mine is on the way... lol I need to get it mounted so i can start the fun time of running all my brake lines.

With that said, Question time. I have been looking at other brake line installations and some install a residual pressure valve for each line (1 to front and 1 to rear). In my case I am running all Disc brakes, so a 2lb valve. Are these necessary for this installation? I always believed that if the master cylinder is above the brakes, then these are not necessary. I have bought a set of them and plan to install. If anything, it is a great way to to disconnect the whole brake unit without removing the lines from the block, a disconnection point if you will. Yes I do understand it is another place for leaks, if they are not necessary then I just like the idea of a disconnection point. But back to the question, are they needed?

Next question... On the distribution block there are two outs for the front brakes, one for each (left and right) and then one for the rear. So, install one line for each of the fronts from the distribution block that is just under the master cylinder OR run just one and then install a splitter in the line down by the frame and then run separate lines to the front brakes? - And if best to run a separate line to each front, install a residual pressure valve for each and the one for the rear?

Thank you to all of you in advance that take the time to respond!!!
God Bless.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

pics....

If you look at the Hydro-boost plate you will see the dimples and you will see I have highlighted 4 in Silver, these are the ones that line up to Captainfab's mount.
Last two pics are the brake pedals all done and insalled.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Clutch pedal pivot set-up does look very nice. Should be zero issues w/angles causing wear/problems.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

The deflection to reduce the force is a great product.
I also thought about it when converting the Mustang to hydraulic clutch actuation for the BorgWarner T5.
I love clever things like this and your clean structure, great.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Lovely work Jeff.

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir. I appreciate your comments!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir... just trying to catch up to your build!! LOL I am a bit behind you though!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so I got the Nut for the Hydro boost from CaptainFab and it work flawlessly, just as I expected. I got the C-Clip off, then the nut, removed the spacer and test fit the correct dimples to drill out, and the ones I highlighted in silver are perfect. I drilled them out with my drill press, test fit it again to CaptainFabs bracket and it was a perfect match. So then I install the plate back onto the Hydro boost, replace the clip and test mount the entire system. It was a perfect match. The only kicker here now is the distance to the brake pedal mount is further than than the pieces they send with the kit, and go try to find a damn 3/8" all thread rod with Fine threads!!! Hint, locally hardware stores do not have any! The reality is that the only thing they have that is over 1" long are the hollow all thread for hanging lights, the gold hollow all thread! Ys not using that... so i found a 12" piece of all thread for just over 2 dollars at Granger supply. ANYWAYS... lol I just want it to fit and look right. Getting this 12" all thread will allow me to reach the hole in the pedal. I will have it adjusted to be just off the rubber bumpers.
I have the clutch pedal the same way and it is done already. I have pics coming of this.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I have pics of the entire Hydro boost and clutch slave cylinder mounted and then the inner fender mounted and how close the slave cylinder is but not touching to the inner fender well. It honestly looks like it came stock like this!!
With that said, for the brake lines from the adjustable Prop valve I am running -3AN fittings and flex tube to a custom mount that will be on the inner fender just below the prop valve and then typical hardline from this point to associated areas - both front brakes and then to the rear "tee" for the rear brakes. I like this idea because I want a universal removal area without hard lines and I think it cleans up the area also. I can bend and route the hard lines to look good and follow the frame and inner fender well to this junction point. I know it may be a bit confusing, but it will make sense shortly, well at least to me. lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

OK, so help here please!

I got the Hydro boost Brake and Hydraulic Clutch system all installed, looks great and will work perfect, THANK YOU CaptainFab!!!

Now onto more fun stuff... NOT

So on the SBC I have the March Pulley kit #22037-8. I am running AC and power steering pump (stock style - currently) and a power rack n pinion system, and this is where the pain in the butt part comes into play. Currently the power steering pump is actually hitting or near hitting the Rack steering universal joint! There is absolutely no room!! So, I have sent a message to March asking for help, maybe a mount that is higher for the pump, BUT I also stumbled onto what about using a GM Type 2 Pump and Res? I really like this setup and would prefer this pump anyways, but I need to make sure i can run this with the March setup. Is anyone running one of these pumps?

So i found that Unisteer performance has a complete kit for a Rack system on our trucks. I got mine from POL but this kit from Unisteer is everything, nice kit but a bit spendy - 8011920-01. With that said, they run a Type 2 pump, have a mount for it and have the parts and routing for the steering shaft that I need. I sent them a message asking for some help from them, hopefully they will sell me the steering shaft mount and the power steering pump mount without all the rest.

Speedway has a Type 2 pump with -6AN fittings which is what i want for a decent price.

It is fun to build these trucks. I love having an issue and then finding the solution, damn it would be nice if the solution was not spendy... lol

Anyways, any help here is greatly appreciated.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I looked into the Unisteer kit, but found that the kit (including the pump and brackets) is configured for short water pumps only. The pump mount may not work for you if you have long pump and pulleys.

I'm definitely going to pay attention to your solution. I have a POL rack on order, it should get here in a few weeks. I have a long water pump and the normal Saginaw pump, but will be using brackets from Alan Grove. I will need to check the U-joint clearance once I have it all here.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

As soon as i get some info I'll let you know. I appreciate the info on the unisteer kit for short pump. I have a long pump as you. I found a few options for a GM type 2 mount that shoukd fix the issue, but no idea yet. I'll be interested in what march says. One way or another. I'll get a fix and pass on the info. That kit by the way firm POL is really cool.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, oh damn what an adventure! BUT I think i have seen the light... or at least a glimpse. LOL
So, I spoke with UniSteer about the kit they offer and Arne they do offer the kit for long and/or short water pump. With that said, I was then very interested in the Type 2 power steering pump mount they have and they are cool enough to just sell me that part(s). Then I was asking them about the Heim joint bracket that bolts to the frame and then the DBL D shaft goes through. The agreed to sell me just the bracket to hold the Heim joint (I already bought one). FYI I found these parts and how they assemble their kit on their website in relation to the rack they offer for our trucks - 8011920-01.

So with that said, it is very important that I explain my whole system. So I have a Small Block (383ci) with Long Water pump, POL Rack n pinion kit, Hydro Boost kit, Disc brakes all around, and HAD a standard small block Power Steering Pump and a March Pulley's sport pulley system. I say all this because I had an interference issue with the Power steering pump reservoir and outlet fitting hitting the universal joint on the steering shaft. So, with that said, I decided to go with a different setup of the power steering pump and change over to a GM Type 2 Pump, easy enough, right!?! NOPE!! So I have the new (coming in the near future) Type 2 pump mount from Unisteer. This is great, BUT I am not sure what pulley I need, yes there are about 1000 different pulleys, it really is crazy... SO, I bought one from Speedway that is universal and has a reservoir on it with -6an in and out, and I will use the PTFE steel braided hose I have that I used for my fuel line (the line pressure is below the rating of this hose). This is all good, EXCEPT after alot of research typically a Powered Rack wants lower pressure than what a Type 2 standard pressure puts out. Typically a standard Type 2 is 1300 lbs pressure and a typical rack wants 800 - 900 lbs. If you have excessive pressure the rack will act very quick, scary quick and possibly dangerous. So, after reading an article by Hot Rod magazine in 2021 by Marlan Davis, if using a type 2 pump with Hydro boost and a rack, you will need to install a Heidts PS-101 Power steering pump adjustable valve. Well yipee... more $$$, but it is what is needed to make it work right, so .... This valve allows you to adjust the pressure going to the rack to fine tune the steering response, so it is needed. At $135.00 it better work. LOL

Anyways, so I think I have the system figured out mostly, just need to get the pump mount, pump itself in and mounted and then see what offset is needed to make it all work, then get the correct pulley ordered.

I have a hose kit that I bought with my Hydro-boost that well i may not use now, but I will look into that when everything is here.

More to come as I get it. lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Waiting to see what you end up with. My new Alan Grove steering pump brackets arrived today, but I probably won't get to a test fit for a couple days. Will let you know how they go.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I appreciate that. I will for sure keep you up to date on this.. lol if i can help even in the slightest itsxworth it

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I was wrong, I found time to test fit today. They fit correctly to the engine, and both pulley grooves line up properly. Of course, I don't know about steering shaft and u-joint clearance since I don't have my rack yet.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

So, i have multiple parts coming for the re-alignment of the power steering pump, along with a new pump and reservoir, mount and such. That will continue the 1966 power steering system

Now with that said I have been working on my 1969 C10 with an LS from time to time (it is for sale, or was). One issue I had with it is with the Holley Terminator X Max fuel injection wiring and brain. The initial setup from Holley was good and then I had Andrew (well known tuner for the Terminator kit) tune it and damn that was great then. So with that said, I was having an issue with it running rich for some reason, so a call to Andrew and 3 min on the tune and he found a vacuum issue. This was caused by a broken vacuum nipple on the Holley vacuum line. Called Holley and they do not have a part number for it, BUT they are sending me a new one for free. Meanwhile i have the original one being super glued, going to see about getting a brass one also. Anyways just wanted to post this here for anyone that has the Terminator X kit, pay very close attention to this nipple and placement. It was working at one time but the bouncing may have caused the issue.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, well what a time it has been trying to figure out the best way to do this power steering pump setup. I got the brackets to do the install for a GM Type 2 power steering pump along with a Long Water pump setup, and matching the dual Serpentine crank pully from my March Pully kit. I got a type 2 pump from Speedway WITH a reservoir attached and have since learned that in no way will this work with the Powered Rack I have, BUT a remote reservoir pump will! So I ordered a new Type 2 pump with 6an out and 10an in and a remote reservoir. along with 10an PTFE hose and fittings. I bought a serpentine pump pulley (part number Dorman 300-301) that looks like it will work! The pump mount I got from Unsteer appears to allow me to move the pump closer or further away from the block in small increments to lineup with the March Pulley, so that is making this easier. It has been some time and effort to make it all work, but it is really coming together. So if anyone needs or wants more detail on all this, let me know and i will get you all the info.
Pics coming of the install...
Also got all my fitting for the brake lines, so starting that install this weekend. Pics coming

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Damnit Dave Kindig and *****in Rides!! I had the idea for exhaust through the bed!!! Copy cat... lol
Beautiful truck the built

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, Update time with Pics!!

The first set of pics are of the issue that I found (I may have posted before, but this is for a comparison anyways). This issue has to do wit the Rack, "Old School power steering pump" and the steering rod.
As you can see in first pics, the old school pump is way to large to allow the steering rod to reach and operate the rack.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

This next set of pics is of the routing for the steering arm. Some parts are from the full kit that Unisteer sells. It get close to the headers, but not bad. 1/4" or more clearance. BUT You must add an alteration to the frame.... as you can see.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

These next pics are of the new Type 2 Power Steering Pump that will have a remote reservoir. Also, you can see that I need to make a slight addition to the frame AGAIN for the 10AN fitting elbow that is on it way. This new pump lines up great with the March Crank pully and I will have full adjustability with it.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Overall, I am very pleased with how it all came out. Took alot of time, ordering parts just to return the parts ... lol Anyways, If anyone needs part #s or help with doing the same install, please feel free to message me, more than happy to help as I can.

With all that said, As I mentioned earlier, I am still waiting on some parts... the upper universal joint is not the correct size on one end (it is 1" not 3/4" DBL D) but I made it work for mock up, the 10AN PTFE hose and fittings I am still awaiting.

Other than that, all is going good.

One question left though for you all, it is in and shown in next message.