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Drained my transmission oil in the 64 found 3 parts of a hand grenade.:waah: I wonder if it's cheaper to pull it take it down and get it fixed or pull it and put in on from the junk yard. Guess I better go pull it out.;)Suck:lol: Think I should put in another 3 speed?
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maybe that is why your having a problem
ron |
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Does this help? :lol: |
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another thing about having one rebuild is that you can have them make it a little stronger
i agree with tiggamonster that you dont know wat a tranny from a junkyard been trough it might just be that the rebuild one on an exchange basis aspecially a 3 speed wont differ so mush with a yard one |
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Yeah - bite the bullet and rebuilt the tranny with heavier stuff inside - then you can tromp on it without worrying.
On Ron's description - I kind of get it. 3 degrees maximum drive-line angle, I'm assuming - in any plane. Tail shaft of transmission to pinion of rear end. Piece of string from centerline of each component - from one to the other: Maximum angle can't exceed 3 degrees. These components must point directly (parallel) down the centerline of the vehicle however even if they're offset - if they don't, that will create a situation that increases possible vibration. Mac. :mm: |
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sorry, the driveshaft can run at a greater angle. the 0-3 degree variance is the alignment between the centreline of the engine and pinion or in other words the variance of the parallel lines
eg. look at the difference in d/shaft angle between a 4 x 4 and a 2 wheel dr. quite a difference. the alignment of the eng and pinion between both remain the same ron |
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;) Ah, now I get it - in the vertical more than 3 degrees is okay.
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yes and it can be offset to the side at the same time, as in the pinion being offset to one side. the ujoints should be sync also with one another for it to work properly.
the same if you have bag suspension and you can raise and lower the car at a whim. the d/shaft compensates through the ujoints simple things can be quite complex at times even if the same theory has been used now for over 100 years ron |
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Been working on removing my 3 speed from my 64. I have it almost all the way out the problem is I can't seem to get it to clear the trans mount. It does come out the bottom right? I don't have to remove the trans hump do I? Are there any tricks to getting it out. I have removed the mounts. Can seem to get it the last inch?:waah:
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If you cant get it to clear the mount, take the mount out.
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take out the crossmember i think thats what ruffrida was saying
just get an air chisel and pop the rivets off then replace them with grade 8 bolts |
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Just kidding. I have no idea. :uhmk: |
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eeehmm maibe loosen the cab and raise it of the mounts a little
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Dave while you have a chance now I would take it out like Gage said and put grade 8 bolts back in it. I would do that to every crossmember. Makes it a lot easier to work on when you need to. Just make sure you use loctite and lock washers.
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The tranmission is out. Taking it down tomorrow to see whats up. Came out easy when I took the bell housing off.:lol: Guess I better do somthing to the clutch too, eh.
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Do you think a 4 speed would be stronger than a 3 speed?:ito:
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I've not had a 3 speed, but the SM420's and SM465's are pretty damn tough.
You still only have 3 forward gears that you use most of the time, but you have the low 1st gear for those times when you need that extra low gear for pulling. Quote:
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The 3 speed I have is a 344. I never pull anything so I don't think a 4 speed would be any better, unless it's a lot stronger. Most the time with a 4 speed you take off in second anyway. :uhmk:
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http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-manual...tification.php |
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Now if you can do that really fast you might churp the tires in second gear. :burnout:
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I bet Gage can do it. :burnout: :haha:
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Did you say no beer? I was thinking just one might help to relax.:metal: I'm getting pumped. Bezel ,bezel, bezel. I ewas thinkinh maybe two on each side one set hooked up to a cut out and the other to the mufflers.:uhmk:
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with a shift kit of course |
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Started thinking about my front end parts. I want to get everything powder coated. I'm going with 2 1/2" dropped spindles and air bags. My cross member has been pancaked 1 1/2". Do you think I'll need to remove the rubber bumper and its bracket to lay frame. What about the shock mount location? Does this stay in the same location or will this also have to be moved? I'm also thinking about the steering. If I lay frame do I need to go with rack and pinion or can I do it some other way.:uhmk:
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Found these pictures of some steering stuff and stuff. Ruff have you any of your rack and pinion?http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/rackpinion.html
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I think you will still have to cut off the bump stop, since it sticks up over a 1 1/2" Best thing to do is just put it together and ley it on the floor. And about the steering look at the post before mine. I've sent you those pics before!
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check out my photobucket. http://s581.photobucket.com/albums/ss260/ruffrida2005/
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Now I have to build stuff and rember too.:sumo: Good thing I kept my rear notch maybe I can use it in the front.
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Now that's more like it. All I wanted to know. Whats the diff between the mustang one and the pinto one? Is yours a mustang?
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