Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Looking good! :metal:
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Getting there....progress on the fleetside today, so maye some stepside work tomorrow.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Got the last of the fuel line assembled yesterday for the big block. Will get the clutch set up tonight and maybe the pulleys if I get time tonight. Still need to reset the engine to top dead center on #1 and adjust vacuum advance placement on the distributor. With the water bypass system in place it limits the distributor play. Got the carb and return spring bracket mocked up yesterday also. (even though carb will have to come back off to install). Temp sending unit installed too.
I plan to plumb in a fuel pressure gauge on the out flow of the filter. Will be easy to plumb in with some unions. Finally got the process down to make the hoses without tearing up the anodized fittings while tightening them down. |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Got the fitting ordered this morning for the fuel pressure gauge. This will only add about 1.5" to the line length and I can plumb it in after the fuel filter. This will give me fuel pressure reading out of the filter. Russell 670340 -6an male/female with 1/8npt port for the guage.
Also picked up an engine stand from harbor freight today.....1000lb stand on sale from $89.99 marked down to 45.99. Got some new grade 8 bolts to go with it also. I've got a cherry picker, but have needed a rotating stand for awhile. I have an engine cradle that rolls that's great, but doesn't rotate. |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Not sure if its the same on the big blocks but don't forget the short bolt behind the oil filter housing so you don't crack the oil filter housing when you mount it on the stand.
Bret |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
the stands for the 348, and yeah it has the canister filter with the bolt behind it. i'd like to convert to a spin on style.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
got the fuel line on, didnt get time for the pullys. got distracted by removing the trans from the 348. i'll try and get the pulleys, alternator & brackets & fan on tomorrow if its not raining outside. need to get the flywheel & clutch mounted too.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Pic from yesterday. I need to swap out the valve covers also for the finned edelbrocks.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Have you gotten a chance to finish the other cover?
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Right on, I know you've been busy too. And we still have the offshore fishing trip coming up in a few months!!!
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
made a little headway on the engine today. got the flywheel and clutch on and new arp bolts torqued doen. also got the alternator and brackets on, water pump pulley and fan installed. got the wrong bolts for the crank pulley, so i'll pick those up tomorrow. will get some pics up in a little bit
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Looking forward to it! :metal:
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Couple of pics from earlier today while installing the flywheel & clutch assembly. Flywheel bolts torqued to 75lb per ARP and clutch assembly torqued to 35lbs per chevy & Ram clutch.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Couple pics of the engine with the chrome water pump pulley, fan, alternator and alternator brackets. Wil get the chrome crank pulley on tomorrow once I get the correct bolts. The balancer on this engine is coarse thread and the ARP bolt kit is fine. Easy swap. Working on the other valve cover so I can get those on this week also.
I want t do a little touch up paint on the heads, which I'll do prior to install of the headers. Still have some more to do. Need to pull the distributor and move the vacuum advance over a little so there is room for adjustment since the water bypass lines are in. I'll do this when I swap the valve covers so I can see if the valves are closed to get TDC and the timing tabbed lined up. Then it needs a good cleaning. Especially the intake. Few months in the shop and it needs a little TLC. Have the plug wires are done. Went with a nice set of Moros's. Got heat shields for the plug boots around the headers. Need to make an oil pressure gauge line and plumb it. Also need to make the vacuum lines and by intake bypass to water pump line and we should be in business. |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Thinking the fan might need some paint treatment to break up some of the front of the engine. Maybe I'll paint the hub the same color as the engine.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
One dang fine looking engine! :metal::metal::metal::chevy::chevy::chevy:
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Looks awesome man! Surprised to see you going with a flex fan.
Bret |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Big Block, Big Block, Big Block!!!:metal::metal::metal:
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
oooooooohhhhh preeeetttttyyyyyy
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
It really does look good Jon!
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Ordered the exhaust kit today after talking w/Comp cams and my engine builder. Both advised 2.5" exhaust for what I want to use the engine for. I had been looking at 3", but even Comp cams advised against it unless I plan to upgrade to more hp down the road. Both said it could be used, but that it'd hurt me on the bottom end and I;m not planning on rpms over 5k, so I went with a 2.5" kit from Summit. Complete w/mufflers and all hardware for $245.97 shipped. So....I'll let you guys know how the kit goes together and works when I get to it.
Last thing I need to do is to either order a new engine harness for the V8 w/HEI or modify my old L6 harness. At this point I'm thinking of just ordering the harness for time and ease. Truck shop of Orange Co has done good by me for quality and fit, so I'll probably order their harness #63-136281 |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
2.5" exhaust is going to be just fine for your application and it's going to end up sounding great!
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
I agree Austin. The 3" would have only made it louder and robbed low end torque. Im not turning 5,000 + rpms and it'll be loud enough as it is. If it were 500+ hp, both comp cams and my builder would have suggested 3".
Trying to get all the systems in tune without over doing it isn't easy. Exhaust and cams are common places where guys go too big. |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Got the crank pulley on and took the fan off for some paint. Was a bear to tape, but I think it looks better now than just stainless steel. With the chrome pulleys and alternator & mounts it was just too much up front. I'm hoping this will break up the color a little. And it'll definitely need a spacer. The crank pulley is 3 groove. I did this in case I added p/s or a/c down the road so I wouldn't need new pulleys. Just went with a 2 groove up top. Nice thing is all pulleys have lined up perfectly. I need to get a belt measurement also for the alternator. Its the 1st time I've used this style of alternator mount, but it looks great, was easy to install and will make tightening the belt a breeze and no chance for slipping.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Perrty!!!! :metal:
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
That does look cool !!
I know I did a bang up paint job on my fan, then hid it with a shroud...but that is Ok because I know it is there :metal: |
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Hope these help MP33...this is from the 63 accessory install book.
Seatbelt mounting instructions. |
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Also had a good/bad day with the stepside. Parked it under the carport for the last time with the old 230 after a ride in it. I have to say I'll miss the old 6cyl. Its been extremely reliable and from what I can see and tell and for what I've done to the engine....its never been rebuilt and the trucks gotten 51 years of use out of it.
I'll start removing some stuff after work tomorrow night. Rain coming in Friday and saturday will be engine/trans removal and start to clean up the engine bay & frame and remove all non-essential hardware since its going to a hydraulic clutch. |
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Got the fan and spacer on the big block and I think it looks much better with the blue accents on the fan. The blue on the fan really broke up that solid chrome/stainless steel look I had going on. My OCD is happier with it too. The 2" spacer I already had, so I just cleaned it up and used it. I could get away with a 1", but I don't want to buy one until the engine is in and I know how my clearance looks on the radiator. I'll get some matching ARP bolts down the road so it matches the rest of the engine, but for now the grade 5 bolts will work. Still gotta swap the valve covers and unbolt and slide the distributor over a little for some clearance at the vacuum advance/water bypass hose on the pass side. But no biggie and easier to do once its out by the truck. Will do both at the same time so I can visualize the valves and TDC.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Remember....prime the oil and then start up break in is , 2000 rpm steady for 30 minutes....make triple sure everything is ready to support that first critical 1/2 hour run in!
Luck! Oh yeah, have a full tank, that big block will drink at least 1/4 in 30 minutes! :) |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
It'll prolly smoke the paint some...be ready for it so it ain't a surprise.
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