Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Pulled the 'bags and installed the ECE 6" drop rear coils. Man, this thing is L-O-W...

The coils slipped right in like they belonged there and in conjunction with my 1.5" blocks give me 7.5" of rear drop, which is about 1.5 lower than where I had the airbags set before for the 'just right' rake. Not sure what the plan of attack is at this point, as I kinda like the lowered look, but would have to re-work shock mounts, bumpstops, and maybe exhaust to get it right--not to mention the work involved in getting the front down another inch to match :(

The ride is different--definitely feel more of the road than with 'bags, but not necessarily in a bad way, except when I hit a larger bump and it bangs the bumpstops. If it stays at this height, I'll fix that so it won't be a factor...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Here's before and after measurements of the rear wheel arch, as well a side view showing just how re-donk-u-lous it looks with the a$$ dragging the ground. I am NOT a fan of the 'cali-lean'. Also note how off-center the front wheels are--the PB arms should remedy most of this. I think I will wait until after I complete the trailing arm 'flip' before I plan any other drastic changes out back, as I'm pretty sure that mod will raise the rear an inch or so... :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Truck looks really good. Should be fun to drive!
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I love the way the rear looks, I would leave it like that and get the front down a little lower. What spring are you running in the front, maybe try a 3" lowering spring if your able too
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You could just remove the 1.5" rear lowering blocks and see how you like it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Or just machine the blocks to the height you need to fine tune the rear drop and achieve the "right" rake you're looking for.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I agree, bring the front down and your there.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like it! With a little fine tuning I have no doubt that you will get it where you want it.

BTW, I'm adding the sway bar to my '63 this week so I will give you some "feedback" on the handling improvements.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

He would still have to re-work the shock mounts as the blocks help w/shock travel. It will be interesting to see where the height winds up after the relocating of the front T/A pivot.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks- I sure hope so after all of this
Front is currently a 1" drop Belltech trimmed to about 2" drop. If I do anything, I'd probably section the crossmember to bring it down and keep my ground clearance. This was supposed to be a simple project, though :lol:
Thought about that, but will probably wait 'til after the t-arm 'flip'
Likely will end up doing this following the flip
Part of me agrees, but the other part doesn't wanna deal with all of the custom fab required to get there...
Cool, let me know what you think--I was amazed at the difference
I agree- trying to minimize the amount of fab while still being super low is an exercise in futility. There's give/take while finding the balance. TA mount flip coming soon--I'll do it as a direct 1:1 comparison with no other changes, just for scientific purposes :chevy:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

What's odd is that it looks like it's sitting level if you look at the top of the bed. Are your rims different diameters (too lazy to search)?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

20" wheels all around, but with a slight tire rake; 28" front/29" rear...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Powder! Dropped off at lunch, picked up after work- how's that for service?! :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That's outstanding service! Looks like very high quality coating too.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hey Gringoloco,

Nice build,

Quick question,
I thought I had this figured out the last time I talked to Nate in regards to the 1" forward arms. After reading your thread is it only the requirement of lower control arms to benefit the 1" forward? What is the difference on the uppers they sent you vs the uppers for a standard dropmember.

Thanks,
Chapster

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

They generally do great work- I will have to chase some threads and probably clean up the ball joint pockets, which they're normally really good about, but I'm not complaining- I have taken a hammer to their powder before, and it just conforms to the dents- no flaking/chipping at all...
I will be running lowers only, which will give more caster and less 'centering'. The upper arms were sent to me by accident, and are being returned :whine:

My understanding is that there are forward uppers as well as standard uppers depending on what you're looking for. I was looking for cheap :lol:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Powdercoat looks awesome, should have done that to mine but I cheaped out and painted them.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I thought about putting most of the parts in powder, but to save a few bucks, I only did the larger ones that required the durability.




Here's a dirty-hack p-shop of what I would be happy with for ride height up front to match the current rear. I think I'd be pretty close to the stock inners at this height, but I love the look...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I will be running lowers only, which will give more caster and less 'centering'. The upper arms were sent to me by accident, and are being returned :whine:

My understanding is that there are forward uppers as well as standard uppers depending on what you're looking for. I was looking for cheap :lol:
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Thanks for the clarification. That is what I understood from Nate but thought maybe I was missing something.

Cheers

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Who did the powder coating? If you don't mind what did they. Charge for the control arms and brackets?
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That looks awesome. Hey, you could drive to northwest Arkansas and do about $500 worth of work on Mike's '67. He might trade you some SloshTubz...... :D

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The aftermarket inner tub swap opens up a whole 'nother can-o-mods.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Np!
I used Witt's Powdercoating in Bossier City- been going there for years- great service, decent prices, great color selection, and the owners have some cool projects/toys. Charged me $80 for 8 pieces. They were cheaper 10 years ago, but I guess everything was :lol:
Man, I wish I had the time, I would be all over it! He wouldn't even have to pay me. Unfortunately, my schedule is gonna tighten for the next few weeks- wont even have time for my own truck...
No kidding! For better or worse- it opens up the possibilities, but means more time/money that I wasn't planning on for this round o' mods- trying to keep it simple...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

When you figure this out, please.... please, tell me the secret. With the swap to the tubs, you have to relocate the w.washer reservior, the OE radiator overflow tank, emissions charcoal tank, & battery (any or all depending on what items you have). Can-o-worms indeed....

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

'lest we forget hood hinges. I'm thinking I'll keep the lid on Pandora's box for now--even if it means forgoing that last inch...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ahhh.... Forgot them! I technically didn't have to start from scratch there as mine is an 89 thus has the cowl mounted pivot installed from the factory. I just have to add struts. My 64 & 67 will be a different story.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Dont do this to me...I mean...us!... Dont do this to us! You cant start all of this and then walk away! We have expectations you need to meet!.......Sorry, didnt mean to sound my parents.

Hope you get back to it soon! Cant wait to see how this goes together.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha- I won't leave you guys completely hanging :lol: I did manage to do the trailing arm mount flip today--it raised the rear around 3/4" or so--details tomorrow...

Oh, and I despise frame rivets. That is all.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

So the trailing arm flip gave the truck a slight rake then? I bet it looks good just how it sits now.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm right there with you buddy, I hate those frame rivets too. Can't wait to see some pics.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

its....tomorrow, today !

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yup! I'm pretty happy with the height now- rides much better, too!
Laying on your back, sweating, eating hot metal shards, wearing goggles/gloves/hearing protection, and calling it 'fun'. And to think, I chose this as my hobby... :lol:
I guess I deserve that, after all the pic harassment I've given in your thread, so I went out and snapped a couple during my lunch break, to go with the in progress shots from yesterday :D



Pretty simple mod--though it took me a few hours, mostly due to those !%dag@^*$^blasted##&%&*flabber#@!*#*@jackin*&^&%#^*% rivets. I used the brackets as a template for the offset holes and drilled them all out to accept 7/16" grade 8 hardware. Pretty happy with the end results, as the rake is now at an acceptable height- just gotta get the Camaro sway bar mounted up, and the rear suspension will be done!

Just for comparison, the rear is now ~3/4" higher than before and with no measureable fore/aft change. Looking at this pic, I really need to get those a-arms in and get the front wheel centered in the wheelwell...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Did you have to add shims between the axle and the trailing arms to correct the pinion angle or is the change in angle minor enough to not be an issue?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice work Chris! Keep the updates coming. With pictures.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

If anything, the angle is now 'more correct' than it was before. Though I have what equates to a 7.5" drop, the rear axle only 'sees' about 2.5" of this--once you subtract the 3.5" raise of the TA mounts and the 1.5" blocks, if that makes sense. That 2.5", I would think, is well within the normal operating range of the stock suspension.

Bottom line: no, I did not add shims, either before or after the mount flip and have no issues--even at up to 80mph on the (crappy LA) interstate this morn :)
Thanks! More to come- can't have an update without pics :sumo:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I know it's a small difference, but I like the stance more now you have done the flip to the brackets. I didnt like the look of your a$$ dragin on the ground, it looked lazy, not very sport.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks Good ! Nice subtle rake, adding the rear sway bar you'll have almost nobody roll. very cool.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I agree! MUCH better now--no more Cali-lean...
Thanks! I sure hope so. It feels a lot better already, just with the few mods I've done so far. I'm really looking forward to the change with the A-arms and sway bar. Then, the brakes :chevy:



Here's a side-by-side of before/after the mount flip. Amazing, to me, how much difference less than an inch can make (that's what she said! :lol: ). Also notice how the arms are no longer hanging down beneath the bed. All said, good mod :D

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You nailed the stance perfectly! :thumbs:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The stance looks really good, matches the front perfectly. Great job on a well thought out mod I would have never thought of.
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