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These are the instructions for the Summit kit that includes the AN Adapter fittings, which shows how the supply and return lines work.

I have heard of problems with the Tanks, Inc. filters leaking, but haven't heard of problems with the regulator.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...0263/overview/

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Seriously? These things have problems because the pump runs all the time? I put the same setup in my 89 mustang, ran the chit out of that beast for 8 years no problems. I know that sucker didn't regulate the pump running as needed, it ran constant. Daily drove that sucker for many of those years too. Hard to imagine that but I learn something new every day.

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Just because you read about stuff on the WWW doesn't mean it's 100% true/accurate/correct. But, to just ignore the info is just as much of a fail. I like to know what I'm getting into since I don't have the $$ to spend twice.

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The LS pcm is controlling the pump in my setup. Wouldn't that be the deciding factor of controlling the fuel pump? The brains that calculates cycles, pressure, and volume? So is it the pcm that changes in recent years that makes that change or are they building in a processor on these fuel pumps now?

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Current Zl1, Zr1, & CTS-V's untilize PWM control of the pumps based off of ECU data. Similar to how they've been controling cooling fans like the super-sucker Lincoln Mark VIII units. Vaporworx is the hot ticket set-up supporting the high end HP pro-touring cars that see highway & extended track sessions.

I just want to make sure I'm getting a set-up that supports 400rwhp & can do its job for extended tanks of gas/miles/distance w/o causing an early pump death. I really like the Tanks Inc retro set-up. Just trying to make sure things work in an extended driver application.

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TA
all the ecm does is send a signal to the pump to run,,,no cycles,pressure or volume...
pressure is controlled by the reg..

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I was hanging out with friends in driveway and had a few beers that night guys, yeah I posted a couple dumb statements lol. I think I even mention in my thread how the fuel filter/regulator is what REGULATES the fuel lol. Just disregard all my statements guys, my bad...

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From what I have learned:

-The fuel filter/regulator in the sketch is the stock setup used in 1999 Corvette. I am running the same set up in my Willys. An in tank fuel pump will last years running continuously as that is the way most were set up until the last several years. Certainly a PWM pump will last even longer, but is it worth it?

-The problem with PWM fuel pumps - The pump I guess is the same, but the on/off switching often comes from a separate controller (not from the PCM). If your pump goes out and you replace it, the controller has to be reset/calibrated at the dealership before the pump will work. Full disclosure- I don't know this from experience, only from research as I was trying to find out how to use a PWM controlled fuel pump using junkyard parts. After finding that story I decided a 99 vette fuel filter was good enough for me.....

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Excellent info to consider & research. I definitely don't want to be @ the mercy of a dealership or tuner. Thanks for sharing.

I just know of more than one guy I follow on IG was having problems w/fuel starvation (during spirited driving & autocross; or driving w/less than 1/4 tank) on the Tanks Inc stock-tank retrofit set-up & were searching for an alternative. This is why I was thinking about possibly adding additional baffling & pick-ups if I ultimately did the Tanks Inc set-up using the GM/Vette style Filter + Regulator combo.

I was also considering the remote Surge Tank alternatives (FiTech; Edelbrock). But, that works for the SBC/BBC carb fuel system that has the ability to run a mechanical fuel pump to supply the surge tank (or you're dependent on a 2nd electric pump). Swap to an LS & you're doing things over. I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible..... once.

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Hey did you ever think about using the HydraMat systems? This might be exactly what your looking for. Little pricey but I saw this get installed on an episode of powernation detroit muscle. You can get one that covers the whole bottom of the tank and it's fitted with AN fittings. Boom.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...t-fuel-pickups

:chevy:

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Yes, I have. I've been watching another board guy w/his build to see how his set-up worked. His combo is blown & he's auto-crossing so it should be a good test for the set-up.

So far his limited time has yielded some issues but thus far he feels it's thermal related (exhaust tail pipe that runs extremely close to the side/length of the tank due to real estate issues). Still watching his progress after he tried heat shield wrapping & as barrier between the to parts to see if there's any improvement.

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I'm surprised he went with such a small sock and not the one that blankets the whole bottom of tank. But I'm sure he has a reason. Our big tanks could stand the large sock I would think. It covers the whole tank so it never runs out of fuel no matter what direction the forces are. I'm sure you will figure this out though, I will just be excited to see what you go with and hopefully some details with pics of install :thumbs:

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Just found this build, awesome work. Following for future reference/build.

Rick

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Stay away from anything that has "FITech" on it.

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0I have 2 buddies using them on their hot rods w/o issue but never considered it because I'm not a fan of the ECU sitting on top of the motor soaking in all the heat. Same reason I wouldn't do the Sniper set-up either.

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Man I love this build... Anyone named Scoti has to be a great guy... LOL

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Well.... There are those that would argue but I've had the name a while now & I'm too old to change it 😉

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Man those Volvo's grow on me each time I see them.

I love the amount of detail in your work.

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He's done more than 1 Volvo but anything Sean builds (IG = hackster1) is worth the time it takes to read about it. He really has great attention to the details.

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Wait, are we both on Turbobricks?

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Just checking in. Any updates?

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Technically, yes. I've been e-mailing images/info back & forth w/Mr. PB on possibly obtaining some parts before I posted current status. I purchased some narrowed arms today so.....

I'm revising my front Dropmember (v.1 :lol:) so it can utilize coil-overs. BUT, I want it set up similar to how I built the rear half (air springs OR C/O's). It was in mocking everything up & ordering the parts that I scrutinized the track width & came to the conclusion I needed to narrow the front track width slightly before finalizing my templates & fabricating the brackets.

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I already ordered some Delrin bushings, C/O lower mounting brackets, shocks, CPP modular drop spindles, & caliper brackets; plus made an adjustable mock-up shock so I could get an idea on the location of the upper mount.

I pulled one side of the front suspension apart & set things up so upon reassembly it would all be located in the same spot. The OE hub/disc spindle/caliper were replaced w/the CPP modular spindle & a KORE3 billet hub. I've had the truck on spare trailer wheels in the front to allow rolling it around because I moved a bunch of stuff from a storage unit into my shop & they were closer to the expected final tire height for mock-up purposes. I grabbed one of the OG steelies just because I wanted to see it on there again. Glad I did.

With the changes to the rear end (12bolt to narrowed 9") & using spacers to get things (wheels/tires) where the math said they should be it now appears the rear track width is dead even or possibly a little narrower vs. the front. That's a No-No in my book for hot-rods.

So, narrowed arms have now been ordered, the Ridetech a-arms will hit the shelf for another project, & the Ridetech Delrin spec 73-87 style bushings will be returned to Summit.

The initial upper 'bracket'. It's ugly, but it started out just as some taped together pieces of cardboard:

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I then copied it so it was one solid larger piece so I could play around w/the visuals. It was definitely too fat but it was still in the figuring dimensions phase. Then some slimming down....

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Final upper template. Like stated previously, I was waiting to here from PB on obtaining some parts used on their C/O set-up but it seems w/the delays I'll just fab from what I have so far.

The lower bracket is pretty straight forward. You can see the template made (lower a-arm in white) that utilizes the bag mounting points as the centering of the final bracket. I'll need the upper in place to finalize the lower since the C/O will be slightly offset to clear the upper a-arm mounting hardware.

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Ultimately, the plan is the upper C/O bracket is a bolt-on & sandwiches the original upper a-arm mounting bracket (also using it's retaining hardware).

Since material will need to be removed from the upper air spring mount (so the C/O can clear), there will be a plate that can be bolted under the remainder of the mount & will locate a bag where it needs to be (much like bolting the upper bag plate under an OE crossmember) if I ever want to switch back.

The lower C/O mount will also bolt-on to a 'bag' style a-arm. It's just offset as required.

The shocks (coil-overs) are longer than what is typically spec'd for these C10's. I follow the principle often stated by Rob @ No-Limit…. Run the longest shock that you can for the best travel. Conversion kits are limited by the stock suspension geometry & real estate under the hood. Since I have aftermarket stuff & I'm even tweaking that, I'm adding stroke length for the shock in the design. I'll be using a 5" stoke shock which should allow 3" compression/2" extension while not being too invasive. I used that philosophy & similar dimensions on my dually & it worked well.

Final ride height mock-up is very similar to Gringoloco's swb w/the PB C/O front set-up. I feel my set-up has the upper C/O mounting point about 1-2" higher than PB's does thus a slightly longer shock can be used.

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Nice, you needed to get this out I could tell ;)

I’ve had a few wrenches photobomb me as well. Lol.

I’m in need of cpp modulars too. My fronts stick out way too far creating a nasty offset from rear. This of course with the wheels that came on truck. 275 all the way around and a huge lip. But this will get fixed next go around.

I like your ability to mod and get that much extra shock travel. She’s gonna handle really nice with that setup.

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Nice work Scoti. I like your approach to have the option to do coil overs or bags. One comment, I think you know this, but wanted to point it out so other people could learn something.

See picture. The sharp inside corners of your upper coil over mount bracket is a good place for cracks to start and could lead to failure of the bracket. Make these in to a smooth radius to eliminate that sharp corner to get rid of a place for a crack to start.

Looks good, I hope to see it at C10's in the Park this year...hint, hint...

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You are correct, a sharp edge does promote a possibility for stress failure. To make things better, you need to overbuild the bracket. In this instance, the bracket would be capped in certain areas depending on how it gets built.

You can only do so much when hand cutting brackets. Scribe out reference cut lines on multiple pieces of steel & cut them individually. You'll get 4 different brackets that need to be cleaned up to match. I've found that's harder than it seems (making individual cut pieces match).... I would love to step up my 'game' but can't seem to find someone w/a plasma or laser table that will machine-cut such a small quantity for a 'small' price. That would make a big difference in the brackets. I went through the same struggle in this build when making the shock brackets. It's just difficult to make an engineered looking part when cutting each piece individually by hand & shaping the edges.

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Well well.... someone’s been up at night.
I have some extra PB upper/lower C/O mounts for a level 3. I think they are version 1 DM type but could easily be trimmed.
Why is your rear end narrowed so much ?

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It's a Lincoln Versailles disc brake housing @ 58" width. The math said a 58" housing would allow ~ 10" wheel w/a 4"bs or a nice deeeep lip. I currently have 1.5" billet adapters on there to utilize the 10" w/5.5"bs steelies w/285/60-16 tires. It has .500" clearance to the un-cut inner bed-side w/the set-up. Ultimately, I'm going for a Nostalgia drag/hot rod look.

Got any pics on those mounts? I took a closer look yesterday & realized I'm beyond my original 1-2" higher dimension stated previously. My final template is about 2-3" higher than the a-arm shaft. Nate & I have been e-mailing back & forth but they're busy & my need is a 1-off deal so it's not exactly a high priority on his end (and I don't expect it to be).

I did order some 1" narrowed a-arms from them over the weekend & I'm waiting to meet w/a guy that was in the shop complex behind my work that's done some fab work for our in-house SS tubing contractors. I spoke w/him & explained what I need & he indicated he might be able to help w/my upper bracket needs. I was hoping to hear from him today (he said Thurs or Fri) but I haven't heard from him yet. With this 'stay in place' order, I sure would like to have what I need so I can make a decent progress push.

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What version is your DM ?

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Well.... I'm not sure. I've had it since 06/07 & I don't remember when the updated versions started rolling out. It doesn't utilize the 63-87 C10 lower a-arm shaft so I know it's not one of the earliest versions.

I asked Nate last year if I could get just the upper mount that has the C/O bracket welded to it (on the DM coil-over version) but he said they were not compatible w/my older set-up based off of the pics I sent him. Recently, I reached out again one last time but this time asked if I could get just the specific C/O mounting bracket. That's where we are now trying to determine if he can get what I need but he provided a window of opportunity for his end so I'm pushing forward on mine.

Like stated, It was worth asking but I don't want him doing a bunch of extra work for it to happen. I'm pushing forward on my end & if it works I told him I would follow-up w/what I did in case others reached out to him for something similar.

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Yea... Ive had em make stuff for me n it usually takes a lifetime.
I get it,, cant just interrupt production to make a couple parts..
So the upper hats I have ( that might work for you ) are compatible w/version 1 but the bolt holes on the version 5 or 6 I have look the same. I will get you some pics tonight.. you want me to post here or PM ?

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Here is fine & the gesture appreciated.

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Attachment 1997499

Attachment 1997500

Attachment 1997501

Attachment 1997502

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Thanks. I'll compare hole locations today.

I did verify on my template today & the C/L for the upper shock mount bolt is 3" above the front stud for the a-arm shaft. That set-up looks like its @ or below the shaft which prob put's it around 1-2 " lower.

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I set these on a bare frame in the shop. All my later gen DM upper hat holes, in that same frame, lined up fine. The C/O mounting eyes are about even with the top flange of the rail. If you’ve already ordered the shocks, these may be too low to get your ride height . I also have a set of Ridetech c/o in a 12.5” mounted height that could work. C/O brands very with their offerings. The shocks dont come in small increments like the coil rates. Going to be critical to get that eye to eye distance between the brackets to match the center stroke and desired R/H.
Its only time and attention 😎

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Yes sir & agreed. I made my template targeting the 14.5" ride height dimension provided in Ridetech's C/O shock specs & the truck mocked @ ride height.

Since I need taller aftermarket or modified wheel wells anyway, going higher (within reason) on the upper mounting pivot is possible. Since that's possible, that's the path I'm taking which allows that longer stroke shocks better ride characteristics.

I'm guessing you have a PB C/O set-up that got some updates/changes to have these spares?

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I sold a version 1 DM few years back. These brackets were changes I was going to make but decided to start clean and free up floor space. Whats strange and amazing is a year after that I came across a Craigs ad for a version 5 extreme, shortened arms, rack, spindles. C/Os, hood hinges.... still mostly in boxes. Oilfield guy.... I gave him 1900 for around 6k worth of new,unused parts. I wont be using the c/o but Im allocating everything else to a Sled Ive been tryin to build for 15 years.... But enough about me. Are you going for a 4” RH ?