Re: S10 Swap how to
 

And thanks Joedoe

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here's a twist that I decided would provide a lot of bang for the buck: C4 Vette rearend. S10 owners do this but have to do a lot of narrowing. But the S10 frame really works good with all the mounting points. And the width is great for the AD truck. I did this first attempt by myself in about 14 hours including boxing of the frame rails. It looks like if you mount the batwing up snug against the bottom of the frame rail, it should sit about 3" lower than the stock S10 once the truck is assembled.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm new to the forum and have just begun reclaiming a well used 49 short bed and have poured over this thread as well as Hussey's "Albert" thread.

1st off, I simply love the details you both have given.

2nd, on the cab mount designs you both have created, I see a slight difference in front to rear mount heights and was curious. Skymangs your rear mounts are 3/4" taller above the frame than the front mounts, but Hussey's plans only show 1/2" difference. Is there some reason for this? Appears to me they both yield great stances. Skymangs seem like they would raise the rear bumper substantially over Hussey's

Again, thanks for the great details.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Nope, that’s just the way I build em', not defending whether it’s right or wrong; just different.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks Skymangs.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm slowly plugging away on my 52 on an S10 frame. I am plumbing my transmission and decided to pick up an 8 x 14 cooler for it. It looks like it would fit nicely below the rad on the risers for the rad. I did the cross-member under the frame and sloped risers for the rad. Not knowing what the finished clearance would be but I am wondering if there will be enough air flow with the cooler in that location. From the pictures, the lower baffle below the rad to the grill looks like it might be at the half way point on the risers. My baffle is snowed into my shed and the way our weather is going, I may not be getting at it until August. I was thinking to keep the cooler below the rad to let the rad work better for the engine coolant without the extra hot air through it. Any information or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

just cut some slots in your apron (baffle) and push it down, then with some triangles of steel make it funnel the air right through the cooler.

you need airflow over a cooler to work efficiently, I have seen otehr guys put them under the cab but that doesnt get enough airflow in my opinion. so getting it right in the air stream is going to work.

by the way, the air coming out of the trans cooler will usually be cooler than the air passing over the rad, unless you are really towing. I have a second trans cooler added to the rad cooler on my 2500HD and the trans temp is always under the coolant temp, unless I am towing or hauling, then they are the same temp (because of the cooler in the rad)

air to trans fluid coolers arent as efficient as water (coolant) to trans fluid, but if your rad doesnt have a cooler in it then you dont have a lot of choice. remember to get a plate style cooler, not a fin style, for max cooling, and also remember that good ones will have a waxstat to limit flow through the cooler till it warms up a bit, because you can have your trans fluid TOO cold.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Some great points brought up. I think a transmission temperature gage has just been added to my instrumentation list.

Thank you.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I am ordering some wheels 18 x 8 for the front of my 50 Chevy, s10 frame truck and wonder what back space you recommend.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I used 20x8 with 4" backspace and they looked perfect in the wheelwells and turned lock to lock without rubbing, even though it tucked most of the tire.

remember that backspace is different depending on wheel width, 4" of backspace is 5" of front space on an 8 inch wide wheel. (yes 4+5 is 9 inches wide, there are two 1/2 inch lips on each side of an 8" wide wheel) but 4 inches of backspace on a 7" wide wheel is what they call 0 offset (7+1, /2= 4) and is actually a positive offset on a 6 inch wide wheel (6+1, /2= 3.5 center so 12mm positive offset).

my point isnt to confuse you, just to say that 4" backspace on 8" wide is a mutually exclusive answer, dont buy a 9.5" wide wheel just because it has 4" backspace.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Very well explained joedoe. Couldn’t have put it better myself.

Lower grill support?
 

First of all great thread. Thanks for taking the time .

I read through all of the post and I didn't see anyone talk about the lower grill support. I think that is what it is called. It is a piece of sheet metal that mounts to the bottom of the grill and to the inner fenders. Are you guys just leaving it off? It appears to me that when I mount my inner fenders this pan will not mount because of the end of the S-10 front frame rails. Yes, I did cut my frame rails just in front of the steering box but there is not enough room for the pan.

If you did install it, pictures would be great.

Thanks
Rick

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I never install them. If using s10 you have to trim to fit. Guy named hussey on here built a truck named albert. he has a pictures of it done.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

its the splash pan/air diverter for the radiator, if you live in a hot climate your truck will run a lot cooler with it installed.

here is what I did, in this picture you can see the pan trimmed for the frame horns

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...psp1atfjnb.jpg

I cut a piece of thin abs (its actually kydex) using the UPPER grille closeout (with the latch) as the rough pattern then trimmed it to fit and screwed it down with some sheelmetal screws

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps3fcfdig2.jpg
http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...psuxfktefn.jpg

thats a chevrolet, gmc is a little different, but the same plan, trim to fit then plastic.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1542676740
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1542676740


the rad sits so high in the swap that you want to force air to go through the core. if there is any room to get around (or below) the rad, it will.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

just got my s10 frame 53 on the road after following this forum since last fall...im enjoying old crusty and it rides and drives way better than my 55 with the camaro clip....the s10 frame swap was a blast....i may have to do another one !!!

here is old crusty

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Nice. What did you put under the hood?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Very nicely done!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks fellas,... crusty has a mild 350, with a 700r4, sitting on a 94 s10 chassis with drop spindles and a flip kit in the rear... had to do the typical custom floor to clear the trans and cut out some rust, and threw in a set of power, heated, leather seats out of a Chrysler 300 and found some 100 year old wood planks to put in the bed...

Re: Lower grill support?
 

I thought I had pictures also, but yes...trim to fit as closely as possible. I think I took maybe 6" off the air dam and then had to cut a couple slots for the frame rails.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Very cool. The best thing about an old beat up truck is you don't have to worry about the paint, or door dings, or kids wanting to do what kids do when they see old cool things. Love to see some pics of under the hood.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm gonna need to see those seats. I've been shopping around for some power heated seats to pimp my otherwise beat up truck. Starting to look for those comforts to drive it daily in the summer.... A/C is on the list too.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Crusty has a mild 350 with a 700r4....

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

nice truck!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I've written a book on the subject, way more detailed than this thread. I'm trying to have it published.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Good luck!

You may be able to self-publish online. Don't have to find publisher/printer.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

put me down for a copy!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Chris, that will be a good read, I'll take a copy...Jim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I don't have the rear fender rods that go to the frame. Since I'm using a S10 frame, I'd have to build something to fit.

What are others doing about the rear fender rod to frame?

Thanks

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Just that. Took 3/8 round rod and welded washers on the ends to put a 5/16 bolt thru.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

if the rods are still on my fenders I just bend them to the bed wall and weld them there, if the rods are missing I use either rods from the s10 donor or make them and attach them to the bed wall. no need to go to the frame in my opinion, its not a "work" truck any longer, dont have to worry about bumping cows, just to keep the fender from flapping

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I was in the pasture with cows yesterday, so I really liked that analogy. But you're right, this one will never be in the pasture with the cows!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hello! I am just starting to work on my '51 5 window, I've got a 2000 S10 LB frame to put it on already. I am looking at a '94 S10 Blazer 4wd to get parts from like brake booster/master, pedal assembly, rear end etc. Will all of this work from a blazer or does it have to be an S10 truck? Blazer will only cost me $300 and it runs and drives.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I just picked up some Blazer front discs for my S10 frame.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the parts you listed will work fine. I cant say for your "etc" though, some parts like the front spindles and brakes are 4x4 only. you may find other things that will work too

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks Joedoh, I have learned a lot from reading you builds !!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Are all 4x4 rearends limited slip/posi or are there open diffs also? I know I have 3.42 gears but not sure of the options.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the open diff is a lot more common, if you can see the glovebox RPO codes on the truck you are getting the axle from it will be G80 to indicate a locker. on the ground without the RPO its easier to just pull the diff cover carefully and have a look. the old "spinning one wheel" trick wont work with the type of locker the s10s have.

s10s never got limited slip, the G80 option is a locker that has a set of pawls that get flung out when one wheel speed greatly exceeds the other, catching the casing and "locking" both wheels together. they arent the greatest for horsepower applications because that pawl can and will snap itself on application, or break the carrier. they are also called a "low speed locker" because they only work at low speeds. I think most of the bad rap that a 7.5/7.625 rear gets is guys who buy the locking rear and do big gnarly burnouts till the locker or the carrier breaks. I mean, any rear end would probably die from that kind of abuse.

a GM limited slip has a wet clutch between the two axles and when one wheel spins faster than the other, springs force the clutch plates together and torque is always split to a certain amount, never 100%, always less like 70 or 80%. these can be found in GM performance cars, like firebirds or camaros, with the same 7.5/7.625 rears so you can swap them in if you like (make sure you get the carrier type right, there are 3 kinds)

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

skymangs - Thank you so much for this thread, the detail, the pdf's, the measurements, i massively appreciate it
This all seemed so daunting at a glance, but after reading the thread im really motivated

Thank you

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

you bet! I guess the older generation was always liberal with the information , when I first starred looking for this info (like 10 years ago now) everyone was really tight lipped and it pissed me off! when I had mastered it I decide to share just to piss people off!