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Re: Daverods 52
yeah definitely looks like a nice easy install. However, unless you are super against one on the firewall or under the cab this would be the only way I'd run it and it would be my last choice. Once you get your gauges in, wiring harness, possibly electric wipers, duct work etc. It gets cluttered under there really fast. I personally love a good 7.5'' on the firewall over the clean ones, but sometimes clean is nice and is what people want.
also I can maybe see some difference in running the brake line. Especially since you should run coils in your line (to keep them from breaking) it will really bring the lines down into visibility I think. anyway, I could be wrong, this could be slick and have no qualms but then again, what does. It does look good. others have done it. |
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I think I will make a center console to hide the brake lines. I don't think it will block the gages as it seems to be well over to the right side. The wipper motor might be a problem. The handle for the front vent might be a problem. The brace for the dash might have to be relocated. Defrost ducts ? heater ducts? I did'nt want it on the firewall and I was afraid if I mounted it on the frame the exhaust would get in the way. In the pictures it seems that the wiper stuff is more to the left and above the steering col.
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cajundragger did one in his truck. Very cool build. Check it out.:metal::metal: Has a nice center console he made out of glass. He's only 19.
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Hurry up and get that thing done!
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It's only time.
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looks like the brake mount was a project to do. nice work. |
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Daverod, I had a few questions for you if you don't mind. I know you used jeff's design for your body mounts, but Iwas wondering how well they worked for you. The Question I have is do they let you lay the truck out. I want the running boards on my truck to lay flat on the ground. I can make my s10 frame lay out pretty easily, but was wondering if the running boards are at least level with the frame using jeff's mounts, or possibly lower. Build is looking good man!
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So basically what your saying is, if i were to take about a half inch out of the heigh of the body mounts I could have it lay flat? (in theory)
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I think your fenders hit before your running boards. The running boards have braces under them so those will hit also.
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so i will lay as far out as possible with the mounts the way they are?
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Dave , been watching you build very nice. just a thought you might in the interest of saving space use one of specialy windows wipers wiper motors and control.. totally got rid of all the hardware under the dash and I've had them for 5 years with no failures.. Motor is mounted in the pass side air intake and only a small tube goes up and to both of the wipers.. but you can mount it wherever you want..
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Put my brake booster and master in. Was pretty easy. Need to move the handle for my front vent over to the passanger side though.:uhmk: Put some old wood in my bed. Need to go get some bungs welded into my keg. It's going to have a tube on the outside so I can see how much fuel is in it.
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love the old wood in the bed. I been thinking of goin a similar route real soon. I have some old barn wood from our barn, had lots of memories skating in the barn. The wood has since been used through most our house and fences so I think I'm gonna keep it goin for my bed.
Glad to see you are keepin the vent. I can't believe people weld them shut. It is such a great feature on these trucks, especially in the summer cause it is basically your ac if you aren't running actual ac. booster looks good in there. |
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Ya, I hear you on the vent thing. It's staying.:metal: I tried to find enough 1x wood but I ended up using 2x. When the tailgates shut you'll never know. Still need to get some metal strips to hold it down. I want to get one of those ac coolers that hang on the window but $$$$.
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Anything I need to know about bolting the flex plate on the engine?:uhmk: Good bolts and lock tight? Torque?
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Should be grade 8 bolts if I remember - I remember them as being kind of short threaded. Torque , you may have to check a manual. I do not remember.
I had to shim up starter to get enough clearance between the flex plate teeth and the starter teeth. Starter Shims are cheap at parts house and come in a variety of thickness |
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;) Thanks bud. Did'nt think there was much to it. Guess I'll bolt it up and put everything back in. Still messing with the tran mount. So what happens if you don't shim the starter. It just stays engaged? How do you know if you have to shim it?
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I did use some blue locktite on the threads of the flexplate
You may want to check the driveshaft pinion angles just for fun before the tranny gets bolted down permanant |
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Took a nice notch out of the block on my 66 by using to long bolts. Not good. Could have been alot worse. I was just turning it over by hand.:lol: Fun? I hate that angle stuff. I need to get my drive line cut then I'll shim the mount up or down. I can still move the trans cross member around I've only drilled one hole for now.
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wiper motor kit came from speciality windows. whole kit for 2 wipers..
Had a keg on the back of a bucket T I built several years ago.. Used a float kit from a Jeep to know how much fuel was in it. Back then they were compatable with most fuel guages.. not now they use some different owm reading like 140 to 90 or something. the old chevy ones were 0 to 90 and compatiable with all the aftermaket fuel guages available back then.. 1965.. |
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