Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I like that , . . . . . . the more old steel on the streets the better !!!!

Thank you brother :)

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

What would work for a 54 suburban? S10 framewise? Ex cab s10? Or crew? Or lwb?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

is your suburban a 3100 or 3600?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

So... here we go with my first post (and questions)
A big thank you for Skymangs for starting this thread and sharing his knowledge. I saw a YouTube video of one of these trucks and knew instantly... I wanted one! I have said for years I would build one more car... as a driver - no more race cars. 1 week after seeing the video I had a 53 5 window and have been getting parts every chance I get. I got the truck on 7/20/19. Then a 85 S10 (long bed std can),then a Z06 rear end, camaro SS 20" wheels, next came a LS 6.0 LQ9 and a 4L60e, 3" blocks, 2" drop spindles. I have my cab mounted 2.75" high. The floor is rusted (gone). Should I fab a floor from scratch, buy stock panels, use the S10 floor or get the ones I see advertisements for with a small tunnel. I have not mounted the motor/trans and I am unsure of how big of a tunnel I will need??? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

a lot of time when a floor is "gone", the structure is still ok. so if your cab supports are still intact and just the sheet floor is rusted, you can use a drill and cut the rusted floor off the spports and just use new 18 or 16ga sheet to patch. I have gotten cheap patch panels on rockauto before too.

if your can supports are rusted away then you will need to replace them with stock parts or the cab mounts youu have wont line anything up.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

what Joedoh said. fabbing your own is usually WAY cheaper than buying, if you have the skillset needed

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Well... I'm definitely not a body guy or steel worker... but I always seem to get by. I was really more curious as to how big of a tunnel I would end up with. I have ordered the front floor section with a small tunnel. I figure if I have to raise it and/or widen it... that's what I'll have to work thru. The back floor section should be easy enough... even for me. Question... how much tunnel am I looking at with the frame to floor measurement being 4" in the front and 3.25" in the rear (top of frame to underside of the floor- not to the brace? My floor braces and cab corners are very solid... guess I dodged a bullet or 2 on them. Thank you ... for your help!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the tunnel will depend on your motor mounts and where you put the motor fore/aft will impact it too. sorry, there is no perfect measurement.

mine always have very small tunnels, I am very careful with placement. although this latest cab was already carved up pretty well.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Joedoh, thank you for the reply. I understand what your saying ... there are a lot of factors that all influence the out come and no short cuts to getting there. I will have to do some test fits and measurements. I believe that I would be happy with a small tunnel... just don't want one crazy big taking all the foot room. And this is certainly not a one size fits all type of thing. Previous measurements that I have read about cab placement did not match up for my build. Think I have an odd frame and/or truck... unless I got it all wrong.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

it looks like your front end is pointing down slightly, that line on the fender should be level with the cab. also remember that if you dont have any weight in the front yet, that the wheels will pull back slightly in the wheelwell because of the angle of the upper arms. both of thos things will improve your wheel centering.

it could just be the picture, its a bit dark. but when I brighten it up in my photo editor it looks like it.

the number one problem people have with the s10 swap is mounting the core support too low.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Good call out... thank you for that. In that pic the motor/trans were sitting in the frame on the standard s10 mounts (not moved back) and the drop spindles were not installed. I am rebuilding the front end this weekend. I will mock it up again after that with the drop spindles installed. TY for the call out.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

if your hood is fitting weird or shutting hard, that could be it. it could be the angle of the picture too, so just a sanity check.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Gcarr, lots of good input here. I would suggest going through my build if you'd like to see a lower cab. I had lots of questions as I went and joedoh was able to answer. I chose to cut a transmission tunnel from my donor S10 for the shape and, as has already been said, there is no exact measurement. How about starting a build thread? Would be happy to share my experience as a novice.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I have started a Go fund me to help buy tools lost in the fire. My boys are reopening the shop under my supervision and quality control. No reason I should let all this knowledge go to waste! https://www.gofundme.com/manage/help...customs-reopen

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

what happened ?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Click the link to read the full story. You didn’t hear about the fire that took away my ability to ever turn a wrench?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Sorry, this is the proper link https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-ole-...customs-reopen

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Well life has gotten in the way of my working on the truck. Life seems to be settling down and I hope to get some time in on the truck. I have rebuilt the front chassis, brakes and installed the drop spindles. I plan to mock the cab/front cap (with the motor/trans mounted) today to get a good look at the stance. That should give me the information needed to move forward. As much as I like reading build threads ... not much desire to create one. I have decided on a slightly modified way of mounting the cab. I will be happy to share the outcome if I feel it will be of any help to anyone. I do want to contribute, but feel the recipe for putting one of these trucks together has been well reviewed... thanks to everyone for that... especially to Skymangs for starting this thread. Very sorry for the cards life has dealt you. You are in my prayers and I will send a donation.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I now have version 3 cab mounts, based on Cecil's dimensions. They are 1" shorter than my previous mounts and require welding the cross sills above the angle iron on the bedsides. $350/set. Same price as my other mounts.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Link to what you are selling? Thanks

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

sorry I now have version 1, 2, and 3 cab mounts for sale http://www.olesargecustoms.com/products.html
And if you’re curious about my website
www.olesargecustoms.com

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Is this measurement from the frame to bottom of the cab or is it from the frame to the top of the mount?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I have been reading the S10 swap tips on this site for the past year, and have one (hopefully) simple question. There have been several references made to the “wheel base correctors” that make up part of the EZ-Chassis Swap kits, but my searches have come up dry for either a good description or pictures of these things. What exactly are these? I have a 118 inch wheel base that is going to have to be reduced to 116 inches, and am looking for a simple way to achieve this. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Stephan, I started in front cutting off the frame in front of the steering box and worked back putting the body mounts as close to the measured location as I could. In the end I had to cut off a little of the back of the frame to make it fit the bed, but the truck sits on the frame nicely.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

8man, the username that I have is from a ways back, when my son and I did a '56 Chev pickup. My current project is actually a '46 Fargo (I know, this is not a mopar site!), but 99% of my information on S10 swaps comes from here. Nothing else on the internet comes close to the information here, so this is where I do all my research. I need to shorten the wheel base of my S10 donor by about 2 inches to match the original Fargo wheel base, which is why I am asking for information on the "wheel base correctors".

Thanks!

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

A friend of mine took his leaf springs off and drilled a new hole for the pin and put it back together with everything lined up to the new pin location.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

The S10 frame itself will accommodate your needs. It is actually a front half and a rear half that slide together. Separate them, cut off your 2" and slide them back together, weld securely.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Outlaw drifter is correct, I cut my frame and shortened it by cutting the factory weld on the frame just behind the transmission cross member.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks for the replies. I am aware of the frame shortening technique, but was curious to see if there is a far simpler way to slightly shorten the wheelbase of my donor frame. I am less than 2 inches from what I want, so that's why I was asking about the "wheelbase correctors" that I have read about (but never seen). If I have to cut that factory weld to shorten things up a tiny amount I will, but if there is a nice, quick, simple trick then I am game for that. I suspect that the wheelbase correctors are a play on Ky Savage's suggestion about relocating the spring pin (or the spring pin hole in the spring perches), so that's why I am asking if anybody can describe them or post a pic of them.

Thanks!

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

117" is the figure generally used for your wheels to look centered in the wheel well. I create my own lowering blocks. Use 2x2 Square tube, offset drill the block for the centering pins. S10 wb is 117.9 so you want your offset to be .9". This is all very well explained with pictures in my upcoming book, How to Build a 47-54 Chevy Truck oh an S10 Chassis.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

And yes, the book is being published as we speak. It is WAY more detailed than even this thread! As soon as it’s available I will publish a link.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here’s a picture of one of my lowering blocks.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

and the mounts to the frame, not the floor. Should anybody want to order joust shoot me an email at chris@olesargecustoms.com with what version you want, and we’ll get to making them!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

A picture really is worth a thousand words. Thanks Skymangs. Thats a nice, simple way to make a minor wheelbase adjustment. Looking forward to the book!

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

We are working diligently to purchase needed tools, but we could really use your help! We’re only up to $425, please help. https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-ole-...customs-reopen

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

What is your oppinion on rather using a s10 frame or a 96 9c1 caprice frame on my 50 suburban?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Never done it, although I’d imagine the caprice frame has a hump over the rear axle where as the truck is flat.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

please help, you can’t buy a metal lathe for $425 https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-ole-...customs-reopen

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

After 2 years of reading these swap posts, gathering parts & planning my approach, I am about ready to start my swap. The ‘46 truck has been gutted, and all measurements are documented. My donor S10 (96 reg cab long bed with a 4.3) is in amazing condition, and only has 128,000 km on it (79,000 miles). Finding something this solid here in Ontario is rare, as we salt the roads like its going out of style. Before I tear apart a really nice S10, I just want to ensure that I have not overlooked any big electrical issue. My plan is to use as much of the S10 as possible (including engine/transmission/wiring harness), with 2 exceptions:

I am not a big fan of the bulky, plastic covered S10 steering columns, so I would prefer to use an aftermarket column but if necessary I could use the S10 column and change just the steering wheel and build a custom column cover the way Skymangs has shown.
I am also not a fan of modifying the ‘46 truck dash to use the existing S10 instrument panel and gauges

One of my concerns is anti-theft features, but I can’t locate any obvious anti-theft features in my donor S10. Its a very bare-bones model without any power options at all. There were also no body control modules in 1996. I don’t have a “security” warning light in the gauge cluster and the truck starts and runs fine using a spare key that was cut at a hardware store and clearly has no chip in it. According to Brendan at LT1swap.com my PCM (model 16244210) contains no anti-theft for 1996 and 1997 model years. So after my long winded explanation, my question is this:
Is there any reason that I won’t be able to use an aftermarket column (with GM wiring) and run aftermarket gauges to replace the S10 instrument cluster for my particular build?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Absolutely not! In fact all the plugs will work. I would retain the in-dash ignition though. For those I use 67-72 C10 ignitions. And buy the aftermarket 55-9 bezels from Classic Parts to make them look nice. You’ll need to remove the ignition plug (red=B+, purple=start, pink=ignition, brown=ACC)
don’t hack up that beautiful dash! Any electronic programmable speedometer will work. And for gauges use electric ones with the sender wires you already have.
Your truck has no VATS, Brendan was correct on that. Put it out of your mind.
Any further questions, feel free to PM me.