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Re: Frankentruck
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Ok, big problem with the caster mod. For the details, please go to this other thread -> https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...52#post9012252
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Re: Frankentruck
Hey guys, guess what, I did a BIG dumb. I put the upper control arms on the wrong side :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
Just gotta laugh about it at this point :lol::lol: I know what I'll be doing in the morning.:waah: |
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I was looking at the pictures and thought they looked wrong but then I tried to look at some of your old pictures and thought they looked like they were the same so I didn't say anything because I thought nah you didnt do that and I'm just being dumb and some of your old pics seem like they are the same
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So the bump stop should be more towards the rear of the truck in a stock application. Since I have owned the truck, it has been more towards the front of the truck. I guess I technically didn't put them in wrong from the way I was remembering them when I took them off! I'm still going to flip them around to the correct, factory way. Yay |
Re: Frankentruck
Ok, I got the arms flipped around to the correct side. It drove way better to the alignment shop, and overall just looks better. You learn something new every day!
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It turned out much better this time.
The truck no longer wanders between the lines like it did before, and there's no bump steer. I highly recommend the caster mod, even on a bone stock truck. Every other c10 that might come along in my future will get the caster mod |
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I "cleaned up" the wiring under the hood by wrapping it in electrical tape. It was just the wires ziptied together before, so you could see all the different colors :lol: It looks less sloppy now
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The reason I ask is I wonder if the caster got increased with the 73+ trucks in that they all had power steering. The way I understand it is the older non-power steering trucks had less caster because more caster makes them more difficult to turn the steering wheel without power. |
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I'm not sure on the squares if additional caster was used compared to the 63-72 stuff that was more commonly manual gears. What I do know is that the steering feel on the road at speed has improved so much that I wish I had done this years ago. How much it has affected the parking lot/low speed turning, I haven't done enough to really tell, but hasn't seemed too bad yet. As I drive the truck more and break the trailer out of hibernation if the back yard isn't too soft, I'll update on how it feels in parking lots and dealing with a trailer. I believe I have what I need on the engine side of things for a power steering conversion if I decide to go that route, but since I replaced the manual steering gear with a Redhead gear, I'm not too inclined to change it just yet. If the manual steering with additional caster ends up being too much of a pain, I will probably convert to power steering before I revert to stock caster. Another note on the steering feel. I've really only driven my truck, so I haven't felt how a truly stock suspension c10 drives. When I bought my truck, the previous owner had put the upper control arms on backwards at some point. I did not know that at the time, and since I didn't remove the uppers until last week for paint and new control arm shafts, I didn't know that they were on backwards. I only found out when I ended up with +11* of caster on one side and +9* on the other. The shop couldn't align it like that. I also can't find the alignment sheet from when I first got it aligned after installing the disc brake kit. It's possible that I already had some additional caster, but camber was more on the positive side of life. That might, and I mean might, be why the steering input doesn't seem more challenging that before. Sorry for the essay, but I hope that answers your question! |
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Ok, a report on the caster mod. I took an hour drive to a junkyard to get some parts. It had a couple miles of interstate driving. I don't have to steer between the lines anymore! There's no more heavy steering fatigue, so I definitely feel like I could drive all day without getting really tired. A couple years ago, I would have been completely worn out from driving over an hour one way. I definitely recommend this mod. The parking lot turning has not gotten harder, and almost seems a little easier. I believe that since the arms had been swapped before I purchased it, there was already some additional caster, but I had way too much positive camber. Unfortunately, I can't find the alignment sheet from 6 years ago, so I can only guess at this point.
Now on to the parts I went to get. The last modification I plan to do before heading back to Milledgeville for my last semester is new door check links. The aftermarket, stock set I got a couple years ago have already failed. I harvested a pair from a decent XJ Cherokee to swap in. The driver's side door of the Jeep was wedged against another truck, so I had to take it out of the driver's door and reinstall in the passenger door to make sure that it was still good. Thankfully it was, because most of the XJs there had already been picked over on the door checks. Best part was someone had already pulled the inner door panels, so I didn't have to fool with that :lol: |
Re: Frankentruck
Increased caster improves road "feel," self-centering, and stability at speed.
While you are attributing the "Caster Mod" as a worthwhile improvement (and it is, it is), what you are really seeing is your truck's "UNcaster mod" - getting the caster angle back to sensible. I would imaging with 11° caster, you would have very heavy steering effort, which no doubt would tire you out. |
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It drives about as good as my 95 Dakota now, so I'm going to have a hard time choosing which one to drive until summer rolls around and the no a/c makes the decision for me on most days :lol: |
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You can piece together a complete under-dash AC system pretty gosh darn cheap. I think I'm into mine for aboot $400 CDN, shipped, minus the pump.
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I'm happy to see your camber mod problem has been solved. IMHO I would agree with you, rust is your biggest enemy and is only going to get worse. I'm also without AC but it is going to wait. I have found a couple of under dash units for that nostalgia look. As the weather warms up here in southern AZ it will become a bigger priority.
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My toes, hands and face are cold, but the new to me door checks are in. It's a brisk, high 20s here in Hickory Flat today.
Since I was able to find the versions with rubber stops, I decided to trim one stop into 3rds rather than halves. I wanted a smidge more opening than what the cut in half gives. It worked great and the doors are still far from the front fenders. I am getting about 30 inches of opening from the body line point to the door frame on both sides. This is another mod that I recommend for all 60-66 trucks! |
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Good work Christian. Keep it up!
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OSHA would not have approved.
The frame that I got my bed off of is headed to Alabama to go back underneath a truck |
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And now, Frankentruck is back in Milledgeville for the next couple months. Interstate driving is much less sketchy now.
I've got 3 classes this semester to finish, then I will be graduating at the beginning of May. |
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It is John's (Flashed) Truck Farm, but John and UBT are no longer working together. |
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Did not know they parted ways. I met John a couple years ago, really great guy!
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No snow here in Milledgeville, but mom sent me a couple pictures from back home that almost made a big sad.
For the stuff I can't keep in the garage, a tarp over the trailer is the next best storage spot. I have 3 rear bumpers keeping the tarp from holding a bunch of water :lol: |
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Nice looking build. Your truck is the same green mine came from the factory as. Mine was also a long bed.
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Did you end up not doing the ball joint flip? I still need to swap the 87 parts I got onto my 61 and plan on doing the caster mod, but was not aware of the ball joint mod. I know taller ball joints are popular on Chevelle front suspension's.
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It was only a matter of time until it happened, but it finally did. When I installed some halogen bulbs a while back, the retaining ring on the driver's side had a slight bend in one spot. I didn't realize it until I tightened up the screw and the bulb cracked. The crack was small, so it's been like that for a few years. Over the Christmas break, the driver's headlight lost low beam, but still had high. The crack finally got bad enough to let water in, so that's probably what killed it. Anyways, replaced that today.
Went out just now to test it in the dark and the high beams decided to not work. I've noticed that for a few months, I've had to lightly tap the grille around the passenger bulb to get the high beam to turn on. Well, the relay harness I have is starting to come apart at the connection to the battery. I can wiggle it around and make the high beams turn on and off. The low beams are fine. Of course, all my wiring tools are back home, but I know my church family down here has what I need. It'll get fixed eventually :lol: I'm also thinking of switching around the wires in the headlight switch plug so that I can have both the park lights on and the headlights on at the same time. And last for the night: check out how well the under hood light works. I didn't use the flash on my phone to take the last picture. It's from a 87-96 Dakota and I think I have an 1156 bulb in it. I got it from a junkyard, so it was around 5 bucks. There's a plug at the bulb and at the base of the hood. I will unplug it at car shows or when I don't need it on while working under the hood. I can check the oil at night without needing a flashlight |
Re: Frankentruck
It's always something! Keeps us on our toes anyway!
When I replaced my wiring with the AAW kit, I wonder if the new light switch comes so the parking lights and headlights come on together...because mine do and I never had to do anything special for it. |
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Could be the new wiring for yours. I have a factory reproduction fuse block, so I think I just have to switch a wire around in the plug. Slightly more annoying in my case because I have to take the speaker out to get up under there |
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love the underhood light, I have one I snatched from a mid 80s chevy truck that has a on\off switch and a reel so you can take the light with you and wind it back up. I have had it for years waiting on this project lol.
Edit: I feel like I've already said about this light but not sure lol. they say the memory is the....wait,what was that saying again? |
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I know I had talked about the light before in my thread, but I was taking night pictures, so figured I would mention it again :lol: |
Re: Frankentruck
I hate waiting on parts to show up. USPS has apparently misplaced the NOS sending unit gaskets I purchased so that I can replace the brass float and sending unit gasket that have both deteriorated beyond repair. I want my fuel gauge back to working, dang it.
Anyways, I was doing some thinking and came up with a name for my trailer. I'm going to call it Half-Wit because it's half a truck and not easily motivated unless hooked to something else :lol: I'm planning on taking Frankentruck and Half-Wit to the GA C10 Club swap meet on March 12th. They haven't been together since I before I put the new tires and wheels on Frankentruck, so I'm looking forward to see how that looks |
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I know the feeling of waiting on parts. Order some the other day, they sent the wrong part as someone retagged it with the wrong labels at the warehouse. Now I am waiting of the replacements, but was refunded all my money and then ordered from another source.
I like the name for the trailer. Seems fitting to me. |
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My seals finally showed up today. Hopefully I'll get a chance later in the week to get the new float and seal installed. Frankentruck and Half-Wit kinda has a nice ring to it :lol: |
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Took a few minutes to get the float changed out. No more leaky brass. The Jeep float fit nicely in the stock sending unit. That NOS gasket was nice to use as well.
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I cleaned the glass today, so basically, I washed the whole truck ;)
I have been throughly enjoying using Frankentruck as my daily driver since coming back to school. I had noticed a weird sound that developed. Thought it might have been some piston slap starting up. I went home over the weekend to see one of my good friends for the first time since they moved out to Washington, so I decided to try to identify the noise as well. I was standing on the rear bumper and wiggling the whole truck when my dad noticed the tailpipe moving around a bunch. Way back when I got the muffler installed, I forgot to reinstall the hanger that was near the old muffler. Because of that, the exhaust was shaking around too much and causing that weird noise. Got the hanger back in and that noise seems to have been fixed. Of course, there's other squeaks and rattles, but one day they will be fixed. I think that lack of exhaust hanger helped contribute to the exhaust manifold donut gaskets blowing out a couple times before I replaced with the metal versions a year or so ago. Not going to be doing much to the truck other than enjoying it since I've got this last semester and I've started studying for the first of 4 parts of the CPA exam. Fun stuff :lol: |
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