Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Good to see an update. Just put a sumo wrestler in the bed..them tires outta hook up then. LOL! :chevy:
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Glad to have both trucks on concrete and under shade. Some of my projects will be done double now....like cab mounts this week. |
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Yeah, I've got the hood. It'll end up on one of the two trucks as the hood that came with the fleetside has a lot of cancer.
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Just saying hi. Nice to see all the progress. One step at a time is just fine.
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Went out last night, set up the compressor and hoses, was going to work on the fleetside to get the new cab mounts in and grind down a few rivots and bam.....rain and lightening storm started. So I scrambled to get everything up and then it quit. Company showed up, so no progress last night. Will go out again. Spoke with my buddy about coming out and wiring the carport and tool shed so I can have electricity away from the house and leaving my tools out in the rain when working. So maybe here in 2 weeks I'll have electricity at the trucks and not 100ft away. |
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Been a few days, but back on the stepside. Last of the panels prepped for reinstall. Got a nice donar set of closing panels as I can see mine are shot. I prepped and cleaned these and hit them with some rubberized undercoating. These panels seem prone to rust as we all know, so I think undercoating will be an upgrade from the factory painted version.
Couple of pic of before and after and removing the staples and seals. New seals and staples will go in tonight. |
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Last of closing panel prep & paint pics.
I like to take a stiff brush t them 1st to knock off any loose dirt and debris. Then pop the back of the staples open. Sometimes they are very badly rusted and they will break, but a flat tip screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers have always gotten the job done. Once the staples and seals are removed its prep and paint time. I'll cover the reinstall and new staples tonight. |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Interested to see how you do the staples. I was planning on glueing mine back on.
Bret |
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I use floral wire. Its used in flower arrangements and other art activities available at most hobby shops. I get mine locally from a place called Michaels. Sold in a number of different sizes. Its 18 gauge aluminum with a black plastic coating over it, so no more rusty staples. Its very tough to bend by hand, so small pair of needle nose pliers work great and some side dikes to trim the ends. I cut to length and bend the ends over and have never had one come undone. I'll post the info tonight or tomorrow on the wire and attach some pics as its my project for tonight.
Link: http://www.michaels.com/M10123236.ht...=wire&start=96 |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Interesting...nice work. :chevy:
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Looks like you have been busy. I have my stuff being picked up this week and headed back down this weekend. I would love for my boys to get to see your trucks and parts sometime soon. They both love old chevys, but William likes square bodies better.
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Did your buddy decide what he wanted to do with the 230? |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
great idea for the staple replacement, keep us posted Thanks
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Got a day behind on the fender closing panels. And correction on the wire gauge....its a 12 gauge aluminum wire that I use to remount the new seals to them. I drilled the staple holes out last night and hit them with one more coat of undercoating, so I can install the new rubbers and staples tonight. Will get some pics tonight.
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Ok, here is the rest of the closing panel resto pics....
1st thing to do is make sure the holes are large enough to except what size wire your working with. Then I measure the distance between the two holes, cut off around 2" worth of wire and make two 90* bends so you create your replacement staple. Make sure to mark and drill the two holes in the gasket also for the staple to go through. Install the staple through the gasket and then through the metal, trim to length and fold over the two tabs on the back and repeat until done. Not hard and makes a big difference. |
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Last of the closing panels with new seals and 2 coats of undercoating and new 12ga aluminum staples. Should last quite a long time.
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Got the inner fenders prepped and undercoated also....They look kinda spotty in the pics, but the undercoating is still drying in the pics.
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Got a bunch of the frame and firewall coated also this weekend in undercoating. Frames really staring to pull together. Will start frame trimming tonight or tomorrow depending on work schedule.
And my other goal for the week is to get the new seals on the inner fenders (I already have all the seals to complete the front end). They are stapled like the rest of the engine bay seals, but these are some that I will glue on since they wrap the fenders and aren't just attached on one side. |
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Looks good man! What brand undercoat did you use?
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Nice!!
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Been a few weeks of off and on with both trucks. Spent a few hours yesterday in the stepside and got the interior gutted and cleaned out. Will need to do inner rockers, forward floor pans, cab corners and outer rockers. Driver side will need the cab supports also. So its time to start cutting up my donar cab and getting some metal worked in. I'll get some pics up later of whats ahead of me.
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Doing a great job, looking good.
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1963c-10---you are doing things top notch--every little detail is perfect. well me, i'am not quite in your zone, close maybe. Unless you do the rebuild yourself you can't splane it to others. there is a lot of exceptional people doing this here, and you are one my man!
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Nice work bud! :metal:
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Started the Captainfab hydraulic clutch / brake master conversion. Got the firewall plate undercoated, plate installed and mounted up. Just need to bore out the 1 1/2" access hole for the clutch mc. I did notch the plate so I can access the center bolt on the steering column outer clamp. Will get the rest installed after engine in this weekend. No sense risking damage to a couple of new master cylinders if I don't have to.
Thanks to Captainfab for a great product and had no fitment issues!!!! |
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Still trying to decide if I want to grind off the old 3 speed shift mechs from the lower column.....part of me says leave them so if I ever want to go back to a column shift I can......
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Couple of pics of the floor. The rust issues are obvious, but not bad. I have definitely seen worse, but that's what I bought a welder for.
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Thanks for the nice write up on the closing panels, I plan on doing mine this winter. The rust should be no problem, like you said "I have definitely seen worse" its also a good place to start with the new welder, on the floor under the mat, keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming, I also need to do a drivers side rocker :lol:
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I agree on the welding. I have to admit, its been 15 years since I had to even turn a welder on, but I'll get back into it. I'd also rather start on the floor pans since they'll likely never be seen. I think I'll go with the full length inner rocker that has the cab corner floor on it. The tops of the inner rockers are good, but the bottom back sides are shot. It's all going to need to be cut out for floor pans and cab supports anyways. A lot of it will come from the 61 donar cab, but some of the lines that won't match up I'll order from Top Banana. I'd rather let someone who can use the OEM 61 cab floor parts on a 60-62 cab so their metal will line up. But I can use the outer rocker, maybe the inner and the cab corners. |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Let me know. I'm on orders down here so one night when I get off or sometime before I go home this weekend I can come over and help.
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