Originally Posted by hotrod1 (Post 5423189)

Looks cool. What about a pic of the mounts installed?

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry (Post 5423217)

Those look fantastic! Well played my friend.
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by R.A.D (Post 5423297)

very nice............. enjoy your vacation

Originally Posted by ERASER5 (Post 5423317)

VACATION! Nooooooooooo! ( head on desk weeping)

Originally Posted by laynrockers (Post 5423527)

You got serious skills dude.. Keep it up..:metal:

Originally Posted by Strodder (Post 5423592)

Looken good Greg. :metal: Have fun on your vacation. Where ya goin?

Originally Posted by stepside83 (Post 5423755)

cool build i just read all 39 pages took a lil while but this is a great build kepp it up and the pics flowing

Originally Posted by Dinos63 (Post 5425470)

those mounts are trick !! always always such nice work

Originally Posted by chad64chevy (Post 5426724)

the truck is looking good! when you leave for vacation??

Originally Posted by chad64chevy (Post 5623712)

wow its been almost 4 months since we got an update, he must be busy taking pictures or forgot about us!!!

Originally Posted by theastronaut (Post 5622869)

Shrunken, I'm going to be using an LS2 and No Limit's R&P on my '66. Do you think there would be any interference issues with notching the crossmember to drop the engine/trans lower?

From this pic it looks like there's room for maybe a couple inches? I imagine that it would be tough fitting headers around the frame rails if it was dropped any more. Thanks in advance.

Astronaut, the problems I see with lowering the engine might be prohibitive. Ultimately it's up to you but here goes. You'll have to custom fab the engine mounts and headers or cut the frame rail to squeeze headers in. You will have to get a shallower pan than the "muscle car swap" pan I have, which is about flush with the bottom of the crossmember. The f-body pan should work. I don't have the accessory drive yet, so that's a variable that I can't give you any insight on.

Notching the cross member won't be a problem, you just need to leave enough room to get to the nuts to tighten the rack mounting plate inside the crossmember. You might have to reroute the brake lines that run along the rear of the crossmember. Also, address the usuals stuff like drive shaft angle, length and shifter location. A couple inches probably won't affect flow between the block and radiator, right?

And after all of that, when you're done the engine compartment might look half empty. I don't know if it's worth the trouble, honestly. You're already taking a ton of weight off the front end with aluminum block, heads and no boat anchor steering box. Are you planning on racing autocross with it? If you are, go for it. If it's a street truck then I wouldn't bother with an inch or two either way. I hope this ramble helps. Good luck!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1339134485

Originally Posted by wutnxt (Post 5622884)

Dude...
As always great work....one of the best 64-66 threads there is....you have great vision

Originally Posted by hotrod1 (Post 5622894)

move the engine back to get away from the cross member and get a different pan. Better weight distribution and center of gravity. You will need to deal with your firewall though.

Yes, good advice. If you move it back more than two inches the fire wall will need to be addressed.

Autokraft has a nice pan for an LS. http://www.autokraft.org/products/

Originally Posted by chad64chevy (Post 5623712)

wow its been almost 4 months since we got an update, he must be busy taking pictures or forgot about us!!!

Originally Posted by McMurphy (Post 5624244)

Probably just now cooling off in Nevada enough so he can touch it. Last time we saw it, it was all brushed steel yes?

Originally Posted by R.A.D (Post 5632524)

damn i hope everything is alright!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker (Post 5636873)

All good, just trying to pay some bills. Thanks, guys.

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker (Post 5636873)

Astronaut, the problems I see with lowering the engine might be prohibitive. Ultimately it's up to you but here goes. You'll have to custom fab the engine mounts and headers or cut the frame rail to squeeze headers in. You will have to get a shallower pan than the "muscle car swap" pan I have, which is about flush with the bottom of the crossmember. The f-body pan should work. I don't have the accessory drive yet, so that's a variable that I can't give you any insight on.

Notching the cross member won't be a problem, you just need to leave enough room to get to the nuts to tighten the rack mounting plate inside the crossmember. You might have to reroute the brake lines that run along the rear of the crossmember. Also, address the usuals stuff like drive shaft angle, length and shifter location. A couple inches probably won't affect flow between the block and radiator, right?

And after all of that, when you're done the engine compartment might look half empty. I don't know if it's worth the trouble, honestly. You're already taking a ton of weight off the front end with aluminum block, heads and no boat anchor steering box. Are you planning on racing autocross with it? If you are, go for it. If it's a street truck then I wouldn't bother with an inch or two either way. I hope this ramble helps. Good luck!

Originally Posted by theastronaut (Post 5637800)

Glad to see that all is well with you, and thanks for the detailed reply! It'll be a street truck that will occasionally see autocross action. Most of the things you listed will be things I'll be doing anyways (my own engine mounts and brake lines, move shifter forward, aftermarket baffled oil pan) so it may not be that much more work other than the headers and chopping the crossmember. I'd like to keep the stock low hump floor if possible so dropping the engine would help gain clearance for the T56. Rob at No Limit posted that guys do extra work to lower the engine even fractions of an inch when possible for track cars so 1-2 inches should be worth the extra work.

This is definitely one of my favorite build threads, can't wait to see what's next with it!

Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker (Post 4953941)

Thanks Jason. Good to see you back.



Thanks French. Go Ducks!



Thanks Dino!



A little trip the the ER with an ulcer has been keeping me down recently. I'm felt good enough to roll it out and take some picks today before I cleaned the garage.

Originally Posted by daverod (Post 5906182)

We really do need a update....

Originally Posted by R.A.D (Post 5906473)

i second that

Originally Posted by bubbalou65 (Post 5963346)

Been looking thru the thread. Everything is looking great. I just saw that you pulled the front fender back 2in. I am doing the same thing just never saw anyone do it. Always thought that front needed to come back. I havn't done mine yet so now I have a visual. Thanks. Also what are the tire sizes on the front. I know they are 17's but I like the side wall height on yours and im getting my wheels next week. Thanks for all the info with this build.